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105° in the chimneys of Epinephrine, Red Rocks
Trip Report

105° in the chimneys of Epinephrine, Red Rocks

 
105° in the chimneys of Epinephrine, Red Rocks

Page Type: Trip Report

Location: Nevada, United States, North America

Object Title: 105° in the chimneys of Epinephrine, Red Rocks

Date Climbed/Hiked: Jun 2, 2007

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring

 

Page By: StephAbegg

Created/Edited: Dec 8, 2008 / Sep 14, 2013

Object ID: 470419

Hits: 3476 

Page Score: 73.06%  - 3 Votes 

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105° and climbing a slippery 6-pitch chimney

In June 2007, I went on a month-long climbing adventure with my friend Ross. After climbing two days in Red Rocks (Nevada), we climbed for 2 weeks in Yosemite (California), and then stopped by Rocky Mountain National Park (Colorado) where we stayed with Ross’s friend Lizzy and did a few days of fun climbing.

The following page details our 2 days of climbing at Red Rocks. It was HOT but the routes were long and spectacular. Click on the links below to go directly to a specific climb. Or, just scroll down the page.

TABLE OF CONTENTS FOR THIS PAGE (OR SCROLL BELOW).
June 3, 2007DOGMA (5.11c, 10 pitches)
June 4, 2007 EPINEPHRINE (5.9, 18 pitches)


June 3 – Dogma on Mt. Wilson

2000 ft, 15 pitches, 5.11c (we got halfway up the route)


We arrived in Red Rocks on the night of June 2. On June 3 we climbed Dogma on Mt. Wilson. This is a steep 2000 ft 15-pitch route, with some hard climbing. After baking in the 105° heat on the crux 5.11c pitch on the upper wall, our ice cold drinks in the cooler wee sounding mighty good and we decided to rap down. It was just too hot to climb in the direct sun.

Below are some photos of the climb.

Topo for Dogma, from MountainProject.com
Approaching Mt. Wilson (on the left in the photo). The approach to the base of Mt Wilson was under an hour, but getting to the base of the technical climbing requites about another hour of class 3 and 4 scrambling up a gully.
The steep upper headwall on Dogma. The first couple of pitches are slightly overhanging and the crux of the route (5.11c).



June 4 – Epinephrine on Black Velvet Wall

2000 ft, 15 pitches, 5.9


The next day we decided to climb a route in the shade. Epinephrine is an 15-pitch Red Rocks classic known for its extensive chimney system and 2000 feet of fun moderate climbing (5.7-5.9).

The trailhead was located just as described in the Red Rocks guidebook (a few miles down a dirt road off HWY 160 just before mile marker 16). From here, it was a 45 minute walk through desert and then a creek bed to the base of the route clearly marked by the large chimney system above.

The first couple of pitches were fun face climbing. Then the chimneys started. Four hundred feet of chimneyliscious thrusting and grunting. Ross scored a nearly new #3 Camelot half way through. The great thing about the chimneys was the shade, although with the 100° heat, we were still dripping with sweat.

After the chimneys was about 1000 ft of steep juggy 5.7-5.8, which, although easy, was quality stuff and lots of fun. But were literally baking in the sun, and probably. (June is not the month to be climbing in Red Rocks, which we knew before we left for the trip, but had to assure ourselves of anyway.) We arrived at the top of Epinephrine 6.5 hours after we began the first pitch.

For the descent, we followed the instructions in the Red Rocks guidebook (traverse the ridge southeast over to Mt. Wilson, and descend the gully down to the creek bed at the base of Frogland). The descent was mostly hiking, with a bit of Class 3 scrambling, and one rappel from a tree. The descent back to our packs at the base of Epinephrine took 1.5 hours.

Epinephrine was a fun route, one I would definitely do again!

Below are some photos of the climb.

Route topo for Epinephrine, SuperTopo.com. The chimneys are where the red line disappears behind the rock.
Grunting up the rad chimney pitches.
The "non-epic" descent comes down the gully on the right of the photo. This is near the Frogland route.



OTHER PHOTOS DURING MY TIME IN RED ROCKS


I took a few non-climbing photos while I was in Red Rocks. Some are below. Clicking on the links will direct you to my webpages devoted to my nature photography.



THE ADVENTURES CONTINUE….


We lasted 2 days in the 100+ degree heat at Red Rocks before heading for Yosemite, California. We stayed a couple of weeks climbing some stellar Valley classics. Click the link to see photos and commentary from our climbs in the Valley.

After Yosemite, we headed for some climbing in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Click the link too see photos and commentary from our climbs in Rocky Mountain National Park.


More on my website

This trip report is copied from my website, which has several other climbing trip reports and photographs from the North Cascades and elsewhere: http://www.stephabegg.com.

Images

6 pitch chimney on Epiniphrine, Red Rocks

Comments


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Viewing: 1-3 of 3    

pvalchevAnother great story :)

pvalchev

Voted 10/10

Nicely done, I can't imagine climbing in Red Rocks in such heat! I just did Epinephrine over Thanksgiving, we were worried it would be too cold, but the chimneys kept us warm!
Posted Dec 15, 2008 1:10 am

StephAbeggRe: Another great story :)

StephAbegg

Hasn't voted

Hmmm....wonder what a winter ascent would be like, if there were ice in the chimneys....
Posted Dec 15, 2008 1:37 am

pvalchevRe: Another great story :)

pvalchev

Voted 10/10

I wonder how often it's cold enough to freeze? For us, it was lows of 35-40F and high of 50 during the day, which I found quite perfect. Right now Vegas is raining (snowing?) and below freezing, so who knows... it would be interesting to say the least :) I can imagine it as a great mixed climb with tools in hand, but that's more of a dream, hehe!
Posted Dec 15, 2008 3:23 am

Viewing: 1-3 of 3