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33 ROUTES OF MONTE EMILIUS (3559m) First Part
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33 ROUTES OF MONTE EMILIUS (3559m) First Part
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Page Type: Route
Location:
Aosta Valley, Italy, Europe
Lat/Lon:
45.67920°N / 7.38483°E
Route Type:
Mountaineering
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Page By:
OsvaldoCardellina
Created/Edited: Jun 1, 2009 / May 10, 2013
Object ID: 517660
Hits: 15910
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Page Score: 95.35%
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Overview(Walls and Arêtes)
Mount Emilius is a big pyramid made up of four ridges and four faces; one of these splits into S-SW and W-SW above the Frozen Lake – which is what remains of the ancient Emilius Glacier. The majestic Northern Side of the mountain overlooks the Arpisson deep Valley and its two glaciers (the Eastern and the Western one); on the other hand, the mountain also casts its shadow onto the Town of Aosta with a 3000-metre drop. In the East, a 500 m. vertical face extends out into the Blantsette Glacier, whereas another SE wall, which is less steep and less abrupt than the former, projects onto the Laures Valley with its four lakes (Lower, Long, Superior and Frozen Little Lake) north of Brissogne. In the South, its slopes are less steep and extend out into the Arbolle Valley by means of big moraines, which bear witness to the activity of the ancient pre-existing mass of ice. A long SW spur is generated by its W ridge; starting from this latter location, a rock-climbing route equipped with ropes going from Bivacco Federigo (9 places) to Carrel Pass was created in the 2004 Summer. As far as topographical, geological and architectural aspects are concerned, the mountain has 10 BASIC or CRUCIAL ROUTES; furthermore, all existing routes (i.e. high, average or low difficulty) have been analyzed.
EMILIUS's NORTH WALL from Northern.
(Pareti e Creste)
Il Monte Emilius è una grandiosa piramide con 4 creste e 4 pareti, una delle quali si sdoppia in S-SW e W-SW sopra il Lago Gelato, residuo dell'Antico Ghiacciaio dell'Emilius. Domina con la sua imponente parete N il Vallone dell'Arpisson con i suoi 2 ghiacciai (Or. e Occ.) e proietta la sua ombra dall'alto di 3000 metri di dislivello sulla Città di Aosta. Verso levante lascia cadere una parete E verticale di 500 metri sul Ghiacciaio Blantsette, mentre un'altra SE, meno scoscesa e difficile, scende sempre sul Vallone des Laures ed i suoi quattro laghi (Dessous o Inferiore, Lungo, Dessus o Superiore ed al Laghetto Ghiacciato), sopra Brissogne. A S i suoi versanti sono meno ripidi e si proiettano verso il Lungo Vallone di Arbolle con grandi morene, a dimostrazione dell'attività dell'antica massa glaciale pre-esistente. Un lungo Contrafforte SW viene partorito dalla sua cresta W, ove dall'estate 2004 è stata tracciata una Via Ferrata con partenza dal Bivacco Federigo Zullo (9 posti) al Col Carrel. Dal punto di vista topografico-geologico e ARCHITETTONICO la montagna è costituita da 10 VIE FONDAMENTALI o di BASE; inoltre abbiamo analizzato tutte le vie esistenti: di alta, media e bassa DIFFICOLTA'.
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Handwritten in Gimillan on Sep 29th, 2009 and to correct in Martsaouchy Desott on Sep 30th, 2009.
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On the occasion of fortieth anniversary of death of Ilario Antonio GARZOTTO and Gianni Junod (Mont Blanc - Aiguille Jean Joseph Croux, SE Wall, Ottoz Route; on Sep 29th, 1969).
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Ilario Antonio GARZOTTO | Gianni JUNOD |
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THIS OPERA consist in 13 PARTS (Edit in SUMMITPOST 1/13: A,B,C,D,E,F,G,H,I,L,M,N,O): |
IDEALIZATION, by Osvaldo CARDELLINA, Apr 01th, 2009 until Feb 25th, 2010.
Edit. in SummitPost.org Jun 01th, 2009.
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Texts, by Osvaldo Cardellina, Apr 01th, 2009/Feb 25th, 2010;
Bibliography and privates informations, by Osvaldo Cardellina, since Apr 2009 until Feb 2010;
Tracks routes's in photos, by Osvaldo Cardellina, Jun 01th, 2009;
Mail of the colours, by Osvaldo Cardellina, since Dec 2009 until Feb 25th, 2010;
Post of page, by Antonio Giani, Jun 01th, 2009;
B&W or basis photographs (n° 4), by Antonio Giani, Jun 01th, 2009;
Three Landscapes of the Group: by Emilio Bertona, Sep 14th, 2010 and Oct 02th, 2010.
Mountains's colorpictures, by Antonio Giani, Dec 14/17/18th and 24/30th, 2009, Jan 03th, 2010 and Feb 05th, 2010 and Osvaldo Cardellina (various).
Action's photos, by Osvaldo Cardellina, Ilario Antonio Garzotto Collection, Gianni Junod Collection, Adolfo Giulio "Dulo" Ourlaz Collection, "Angelino" Bozzetti Collection, Pietro "Piero" Rosset Collection, Ezio Marlier Collection, Emilio Bertona Collection, Maurizio Castellan Collection, Camillo Roberto Ferronato Collection, Danilo Garzotto Collection, Flavio Zulian Collection, Elio Saluard Collection, Baptiste Pieiller Collection, Alberto Sciardi Collection, in severals various times.
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LONG-TERM PLAN of the OPERA: (Ending Feb 25th, 2010). Entire Revision-Editing since Sep 05th until Sep 18th, 2010, by Osvaldo CARDELLINA.
SECTOR ONE or FIRST PART in SP
Part/A: Synthesis historical of name mountain's .
Part/B: Synthesis in chronological order of ascents, climbs and humans, naturals, extraordinary facts, events and phenomenons in Mount Emilius Mountain Chain (well - known, observations and private informations).
Part/C: Synthesis in chronological order of winter ascents and climbs and Noteworty ascents in springtime (well - known and privates informations).
Part/D: Synthesis in chronological order, SOLO, ascents and clims (well-known, private informations and Bibliography).
SECTOR TWO or second PART in SP
Part/E: 144 HONEUNDRED "QUARANTAQUATTRO" TIMES THE VAULT OF HEAVEN OF AOSTA CITY (Partial History of Cross, Tours, Minitours and or basis routes in Mount Emilius and Group). 85 "Marathon" Crossing, 25 Tours, 14 Minitours + 1 MiniMysterious and 20 or basis routes.
Part/F: The beautiful, smart and safe route of Mount Emilius (NE ridge and N Edge (Arête des Trois Curés or Three Abbots Crest).
Part/G: The East Face, of tragedy wall. Formerly integrated in Part/B, Part/C, Part/D and Part/E.
Part/H: The East and South Ridges, normal routes from Grand Brissogne, Gimillan and Pila. Formerly integrated in Part/B, Part/C, Part/D and E.
Part/I: The Southerns Slopes and Walls. Integrated in Part/B, Part/C, Part/D and E.
Part/L: SW Buttress, Spurs and W Arête Old Route and Via Ferrata 2004. Integrated in Part B, Part/C, Part/D and Part/E.
Part/M: North Wall and Black Triangle. Integrated in Part/B, Part/C, Part/D and Part/E.
Part/N: History of Bibliography .Integrated in Parts A,B,C,D,E and F.
Part/O: Mount Emilius Baby's (Under 14 years, Emilie's Argentier Age). Integrated in Part/B, Part E and Part/F.
LEGENDA:
in PURPLE: Ten Crucial Routes, extraordinary phenomenons and eight "Kabbala";
in RED: climbs, ascents, human facts and events, personality, characters and cast; a groups of rope climbers;
in GREEN: Mountains Chains, Summits: naturals events, toponimic distinghing features and topographic surveys;
in BLUE: in winter ascents and climbs; noteworty a trip to the mountain at the beginning of Spring and in late Fall. Lakes and Glaciers;
in BROWN: Books and Maps, detailed bibliography, privates informations, connections, reports and remarks; adress and coversations by writers and protagonists. B&W photographs, snaps, pictures, color photos and action's.
NOTEWORTY "READING ROOM" in SUMMITPOST.org. to bring in 33 ROUTES:
Monte Emilius GROUP, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Feb 15th, 2006.
Views of Monte Emilius, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Apr 25th, 2009.
Punta di Arpisson, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Apr 18th, 2005.
Punta Garin, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Oct 20th, 2005.
All routes (40) of Peak Garin by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Sep 09th, 2009.
Punta de la Pierre, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Dec 22th, 2007.
Punta della Valletta, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Feb 07th, 2008.
Testa Nera, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Dec 28th, 2007.
Becca di Nona, by Maria Grazia s; Edit. Apr 10th, 2004.
Mont Ross di Comboè, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Sep 14th, 2009.
Punte del Lago Gelato, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Jan 13th. 2010.
Via Ferrata, by buxlex; Edit. Sep 24th, 2007.
Such a shame! "Apartheid" in Charvensod; "My articles", by buxlex; Edit Sep 07th, 2008.
Emilius, by marco979, livioz; Edit. Apr 23th, 2001.
Emilius Normal Route from Pila; "My Routes", by marco979; Edit. Oct 23th, 2003.
Mont Perè Laurent, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Jan 26th, 2010.
Becca di Seneva or Le Cordagne, by Antonio Giani; Edit. May 05th, 2008.
Testa Blantsette, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Jan 22th, 2010.
Becca di Salé, by Antonio Giani; Edit Mar 26th, 2008.
Punte Gianni Junod by Antonio Giani; Edit. Jan 02th, 2010.
Grande Roise, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Jan 30th, 2008.
Punta Ilario Antonio Garzotto, by Antonio Giani; Edit Dec 18th, 2009.
Punta di Leppe, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Sep 02th, 2007.
Mont des Laures, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Sep 22th, 2010.
Punta di Laures, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Nov 12th, 2009.
Punta Rossa dell'Emilius, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Aug 23th, 2007.
Mont (Tour) Grauson, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Jan 12th, 2008.
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