Welcome to SP!  -
Zabi Kon
Mountain/Rock

Zabi Kon

 
Zabi Kon

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Poland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 49.10195°N / 20.04723°E

Object Title: Zabi Kon

Activities: Trad Climbing

Elevation: 7516 ft / 2291 m

 

Page By: KRZYS

Created/Edited: Mar 26, 2009 / Apr 16, 2014

Object ID: 501224

Hits: 6716 

Page Score: 79.78%  - 11 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Overview

Żabi Koń

Žabí Kôň

Simonturm

Simon-torony


The classic Tatra's peak. Summit, like Ostry Stit is one of a hardest to reach by ordinary route crag in Tatra Mountains. Żabi Koń it's a lowest top, in ridge separates Doline Rybiego Potoku (Fish Torrent Valley) for Žabia Dolina Mengusovská. In the ridge, Żabi Koń is separated from Żabia Turnia Mięguszowiecka by Żabia Przełęcz Wyżnia (Higher Żabia Pass) and from Rysy by Żabia Przełęcz (Żabia Pass).  
From Žabia Dolina Mengusovská
Clear sky

Watching from south or north Żabi Koń has original, but dumpy figure, however from west or east looks like dangerous and sharp crag.
View from summit although a bit limited is interesing, but fragments of views during ridge and wall climbing (because of big exposition) are probably in group of most beautiful in this mountains...

Normal route - East ridge from Żabia Pass (III+)

 
East ridge of Zabi Kon
View on east ridge
This is one from not much summits in Tatras on which don't lead any route recommend even for expered mountain toursit. Interesting (wonderful views), and only fairy hard (III+ UIAA) is east ridge.
Approach start from Mountain Hotel Popradske Pleso (look section Camping and Transport) to the Žabia Dolina Mengusovská by red trial (1h15min). From there on heap high under rock of Żabia Przełęcz (30min). Next slantwise right to depression. From depression by gully and on the left to terrace in half of slope (25min). Next - up by next steep rock gully to place, when gully became a overhang. After it, right by slabs rock to right branch of gully. By it, up under vertical rock. Now left, by higher end of great slab. Next slantwise grass shelf few meters over lowest indentation of Żabia Przełęcz (20min). You can get here also from Morskie Oko, but the route is longer.
From there 12 meters down by steep gully to lowest part of Pass. Next 40-meters, not sheer Małym Koniem (a Small Horse) under 10m fault. Right slab, narrow crack on comfortable ledge. From there left on sharp of ridge and by her on good stance. Next narrow edge of steep Górnego Konia (Higher Horse) several meters under almost vertical 3 meters rock step. We climb on a step and next by ridge, which became border and border to the summit of Żabi Koń. (45min from Pass)
First ascent more part of east ridge: Zygmunt Klemensiewicz, Roman Kordys, Aleksander Znamięcki 05.VIII.1907

Żabi Koń's history and his popularity

First ascent:Katherine Broske and Simon Häberlein 12.IX.1905
Winter ascent: Alfred Grósz and Theoblad Kręgczy 26.III.1913
Near the summit
Near the summit

First reach of Żabi Koń (by south face), has a great role in development mountaineering in Tatra Mountains. For many years his North face (did in 1929 by Lidę Skotnicównę, Bronisława Czecha and Wiesława Stanisławskiego) has passed for most difficult in whole Tatras.
Climbing on his ridges and faces is beautiful (though short) and there are lot of classics. Żabi Koń was treated once by Slovakian Climbers as the mountaineering skills exam, however nowadays it's more baptism.

Name

Name of Żabi Koń ("Frog's Horse") has been given by Janusz Chmielowski and Klimek Bachleda in 1905, when with Jędrzej Marusarz-Jarząbek they went down from Rysy on the Żabia Przełęcz (Żabia Pass). At that time peak was nameless and unconquerable. Bachleda named this summit Koniem ("horse") for reasons narrow and steep shape. Chmielowski added Żabi (Frog's) grounds of proximity Żabie Stawy Mięguszowięckie (Frog's Mengusovská's Lakes). German and Hungarian name commemorates first conqueror of summit - Simona Häberleina, who was on peak next day after create polish name.
Zabi Kon s West Ridge
West ridge

Climbing

South face:(Slovakian side) 
Take out a runner
Take out a runner

1. Narkiewcz (V, 2h30min)
2. Litvániho (V,A1, 2h30min)
3. Häberlain (IV, 1h)
4. Novotný (V+. 5h)
5. Into the Wild (VI, 2h)
North face: (Polish side)
1. Stanislawski(V, 2h)
2. Down from East ridge by north face - Golacz's and Krystka's (III, 1h30min to path)
Ridges:
1. West ridge (V, 1h)
2. West ridge down (III, 30min)
3. East ridge (III, 45min)

Tourist seazon and TANAP rules

According to TANAP rules to climb unmarked routes you should be a member of mountaineer club which belong to UIAA, you must choose route III<, in winter I< (UIAA) and you can use the easiest routes only for descending. On Żabi Koń doesn't lead any marked trail.
 
TANAP Logo
 

Official TANAP site - more informations about Tatra Mountains principles. 
Rappel - West Ridge
Rappel from West Ridge

Camping and transport


Accommodation - Slovak side:


Smokovec, all year terraced house 'Draci Stit', full eq, 940asl, H.Tatras view, 40min to Hrebieniok - +48 601 439 319



Horsky Hotel Popradske Pleso:
To get into parking and train stop into lowest part of Mengusovská you have a possibilities: car (from "Route of freedom" turn on marked bend 1 km before Strbske Pleso), or High Tatra's Train.
Mountain Hotel Popradske Pleso is located 45 min on foot from train stop. It's one for the most beautiful hut in Tatra Mountains.
Information about Mountain Hotel Popradske Pleso on our website- summitpost 
Mountain Hotel Popradske...
Popradske Pleso from Osterva by Equus
 
Poradske Pleso 01.01.2009
Mountain Hotel Popradske Pleso

Polish side:

Schronisko Morskie Oko
Get to Morskie Oko from Zakopane is uncomplicated. Bus giving a efficient journey to Palenicy Białczańskiej, where a parking is. From there red trial by 9 km, closed for cars, old asphalt route. It takes 2 h, (down 1:30 h) to the hut. Cost about 37-47 PLN for night. Morskie Oko is famous and wonderful place. Phone number(0-18)2077609

Conditions in mountains

Popradske PlesoHZS -Weather,conditions and avalanche forecast slovakian rescue emergency mountain servis
TOPR -polish rescue emergency mountain servis




Valid Web
cams from Tatra Mountain

Viev from Novy Smokovec

Viev from summit of Lomnica

Viev from Stary Smokovec
More cams from Slovakia - holidayinfo.sk

Images