Welcome to SP!  -
A climb in RMNP - All Two Obvious, Spearhead
Trip Report
 
Geography

A climb in RMNP - All Two Obvious, Spearhead

 

Page Type: Trip Report

Location: Colorado, United States, North America

Object Title: A climb in RMNP - All Two Obvious, Spearhead

Date Climbed/Hiked: Dec 31, 1969

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Summer

 

Page By: spectreman

Created/Edited: Aug 20, 2008 / Jan 28, 2009

Object ID: 433637

Hits: 1342 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

A journey into Glacier Gorge

This is a trip we took into Glacier Gorge. The Gorge is one of the most spectacular places in all of RMNP and is rimmed by magnificant granite walls. We are planning on climbing the Spearhead. Our intended route is "All Two Obvious", Grade IV, 5.12a.

Here is Glacier Gorge as seen from the Keyhole route on Longs Peak.
Glacier Gorge from the Keyhole
 


We leave home at 3:00am and are hiking by 4:30am. The hike is awesome and the scenery helps pass the miles. We get to Black Lake at 6:00, the gorge itself is only 20-30 minutes further!

Black Lake
 

Approach Hike around Black Lake
 


Just above Black Lake McHenry's peak and Arrowhead come into view.
McHenry s and Arrowhead
 

Here is the Spearhead.
The Spearhead
 

Alpine Granite

The weather seems to be perfect and the temps are good, so we are soon racked up and start up the route. The first pitch is easy and gets us to a nice ledge called "Middle Earth". We bask in the morning sun and Joan leads the second pitch of flakes and a tricky finger crack at 9+. I take the lead from here and we do pitches 3,4 and 5. The 5th pitch is spectacular and takes a perfect finger crack through a small roof. Here is Joan on the 4th and 5th pitches.
On pitch four, 5.10c
 

Perfect alpine granite!
 


Pitch six is the crux and it looks thin! The crux moves are protected by 3 bolts and consist very thin and inobvious face moves. I take a few falls figuring out the crux sequence, pretty exiting with big air below. There is no possibility of aiding through this section as the bolts are pretty far apart and the crux comes a move or two past the second bolt. The top of the pitch eases to 5.10 and is protected with gear and a few more bolts. All in all, one of the best Alpine face pitches ever!! Here are some photos at the top of the crux pitch.
Coming up the crux pitch
 

Crux pitch of  All Two Obvious , 5.12a
 


Pitch seven is also 5.11 face with several very tricky high steps onto perfect golden knobs. This takes us to the summit ramp and a quick scramble gets us to the summit block. The summit is very exposed and an awesome place to hang out.

Hiking Home

I always hate to leave the Gorge. It is such an awesome place to climb and hang out. I linger and take a few more photos before we make the long hike home.
Pagoda Peak
 

Waterfall in Glacier Gorge
 

Tree at Mills Lake Outlet
 

Images

McHenrys Peak

Comments


[ Post a Comment ]
Viewing: 1-1 of 1    

timwebbwow

Hasn't voted

super pictures, enjoyed...
Posted Jun 22, 2012 2:25 pm

Viewing: 1-1 of 1