M. EMILIUS  West, West-Southwest Faces & South Slope between Western Ridge & South-southearn Crest

M. EMILIUS West, West-Southwest Faces & South Slope between Western Ridge & South-southearn Crest

Routes Monte Emilius Southwestern Slope/Versante Sudoccidentale (Photo reposted Jul 19th, 2013 and corrected and updated on September 19th, 2021 )

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From left or West to right or South-southeast

D: EMILIUS WESTERN RIDGE

(23) W Arête (from North Face of Little Emilius): Giovan Battista Devalle, Ercole Daniele, Alessandro Pession and Luigi Bich; Aug 30th, 1897; first Winter and first solo: Nerino Gobbo; in winter 1940/41; d. in lev. 200/220m; AD-. (It. or basis D).

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D: MONT ROSS DE COMBOE'-PICCOLO EMILIUS-EMILIUS NORTHWESTERN RIDGE

(23bis) W-NW Arête Mount Ròss of Comboé and crossing to Little Emilius and W Crest (from Colle Carrel): Abbé Joseph Henry and Grégoire Comé; Sep 16/17th, 1902; first Winter, first solo W Ridge (from Carrel Pass?, more probably); Nerino Gobbo; winter 1940/41; d. in lev. 650m; AD-." Via Ferrata" from 2004.

(23ter) W-NW Arête and W Ridge (Direct and Integral from Becca di Nona, including Red Jag or Gendarme Rosso also Red Tower 3150m, Upper Reds Towers and "Grey Jump", from Carrel Pass): Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato; Aug 01th, 1976; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 980/1000m from Becca; 740/50m from Federigo Zullo Bivouac; AD+/D-/AD-.

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C and D: EMILIUS WEST-SOUTHWESTERN FACE and WESTERN RIDGE

(26) S-SW Wall of Great Pillar and W Arête (Integral and Pillar Direct Line to "Grey Fall" and W Crest, new route in left)
: Osvaldo Cardellina and Danilo Garzotto; Oct 11th, 1986; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 400/410m (350/60+50m); AD+/AD/AD+.

(It. or basis C)C and B: (27) W-SW Wall and S-SW Slope and W Crest ("Passaggio Corona" – "Corona Passage"): Giuseppe Corona, Venanzio Defey and Grégoire Comé; Sep 09th, 1875; d. in lev. 330/40m (190+100+40/50m); PD/PD+/F+. First solo: Osvaldo Cardellina, Oct 04th, 1992, in day from Pila.

(27bis) South Rib of Red Turrets (about 3.450/60m) and W Crest: Osvaldo Cardellina and Alessandro Cardellina; Aug 10th, 1995; d. in lev. 340/50m (230/5+110/5m; PD/PD+/PD-/AD-/AD. (Route 27bis or between routes 27 (Via Corona) and 23 (Western Ridge), but not traced in the photo).

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B: EMILIUS SOUTHERN SLOPE

VARIANT 24quater S Slope (Great Couloir to Right)
: Abbots Maria Joseph Henry, ? Bionaz and Grégoire Comé, Charvensod Mountain Guide; Sep 02th, 1902, in descent from Summit to Gelato Lake; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 290/300m; (30°/35°); F+/PD-; (no traced in photo and between 24 and 25; (It. 24, 24bis, 24ter and 24 quater).

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A and B: EMILIUS SOUTH SLOPE and SOUTH-SOUTHEAST CREST:, "West Side of the Crest in terminal part", New Route, by Osvaldo Cardellina-Renzo Botti on June, 22th, 1968, in descent (not traced in picture).

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B: EMILIUS SOUTH SLOPE and WEST RIDGE

(25)B: S Slope (Little Couloir and W Crest, new route): Osvaldo Cardellina, solo; Jul 08th, 1984; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 360/70m; (50°/42°/38°); AD+/PD-. (It. or basis B).

(25bis) S Slope (S Spur - S Slope and W Crest, new route): Osvaldo Cardellina, solo; Jun 10th, 1990; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 390/400m; (48°/43°/38°); AD+/PD-.

(always Route 25, but not traced in the photo) S Slope (Large Pillar- S Slope and W Crest, new route in left, by routes of 1984 and 1990): Osvaldo Cardellina, lone; October 28th, 2006, in day from Pila; d. in lev. 400m (250+150m); AD-/AD/AD+/D-/D/D+/PD-/F . new route between 25 bis and july 2007). .

(always Route 25, but not traced in the photo) S Slope (S "Sinuous" Little Pillar- S Slope and W Crest, new route between 25 bis and 25 ter to the left by route of 2006): Osvaldo Cardellina, solo; Jul 07th, 2007; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 480/90m (260/70+220m; PD/PD+/AD-/AD+/D-/AD-/PD-/F+.

(25ter)B: S-SW Wall and S Slope (Direct Line on S-SW Ribbing pear-shaped, new route, in left by route of 2007): Osvaldo Cardellina, Roy Cardellina and Danilo Garzotto; June 19th, 1994; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 500m (300+200m); AD-/AD/AD+/PD-/F+.

C: (25quater) S-SW Little Pillar and S Slope (Direct Line on Little Pillar or "Broken" Pillar to Summit, new route in right by route of 1994): Osvaldo Cardellina, lone; July 15th, 2005, in day from Pila; d. in lev. 400m (250+150m); AD-/AD/AD+/D-/D/D+/PD-/F .

C and D: EMILIUS's S-SW FACE of Great Pillar "Direct to Grey Fall", new route to left, by Osvaldo Cardellina-Danilo Garzotto, October 1986 and S-SW Ribbing "Direct to Summit", new route to right, by Osvaldo Cardellina-Roy Cardellina-Danilo Garzotto, on June1994.

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A: EMILIUS SOUTH-SOUTHEAST CREST

A: 24) S-SE Arête (Normal Route of "Three Capuchins"): Giovan Battista Defey, Lorenzo Cerise and a company unmentionable; 1823; First Winter (First Absolute in Winter of mountain): Lino Binel and Amedeo Berthod and Leonardo Cossard; 15.02.1934; from Pila; d. in lev. 320m; F/F+.

(It. or basis A). VARIANT 24bis, new route: S-SE Arête (Western Side): Osvaldo Cardellina, Walter Ferronato, Ilario Antonio Garzotto and Luigi Neyroz; Jul 18th, 1965, in descent; from Arbolle/E'cho's Loch/Gelato Lake; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 230/240m; F+/PD-; (no traced in photo and between 24quater and 2; (It. 24, 24bis, 24ter and 24quater).

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B and A: EMILIUS SOUTHERN SLOPE and SOUTH-SOUTHEASTERN CREST

VARIANT 24ter, new route: S Slope and S-SE Arête (W Side, in final part): Osvaldo Cardellina and Renzo Botti; Jun 22th, 1968, in descent; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 290/300m; F+/PD-; (not drawn in photo and between 24 and 24quater; (It. 24, 24bis, 24ter and 24quater).
OsvaldoCardellina
on Jun 1, 2009 5:24 am
Image Type(s): Rock Climbing
Image ID: 517671

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