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Agulha do Diabo
Mountain/Rock

Agulha do Diabo

 
Agulha do Diabo

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Teresópolis - RJ, Brazil, South America

Lat/Lon: 22.4624°S / 43.0242°W

Object Title: Agulha do Diabo

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Big Wall

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 6725 ft / 2050 m

 

Page By: Mountainfriend

Created/Edited: Nov 1, 2005 / Jul 11, 2006

Object ID: 154902

Hits: 8091 

Page Score: 74.01%  - 4 Votes 

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Overview


Agulha do Diabo from Neblina Trail

Agulha do Diabo ( Devil’s Needle ) is an impressive spire to climb inside Serra dos Órgãos National Park. With 2050 mts, the mountain imposes many difficults to get the summit, how the trail to the base, the distance, technics and the weather ( because the climbing during all the day ). The overview is very impressive over there, being one of the most impressive sights of all the park. It is a hidden mountain, between rock blocks and towers with more than two thousand meters. The conquest was dated in the year 1940, by the east side (4º IV A0 ), and this is the most easy route to get Diabo's summit . The mountain has a privileged localization between Pedra do Sino and Dedo de Deus.

Getting There

The mountain is located in the heart of Serra dos Órgãos National Park, by Teresópolis side. From Rio de Janeiro, is distant 92 km by car ( 1 hour driving ) . Take BR-116 to North until Teresópolis. The entrance of National park is at the left side of the main road and, it is impossible to make a mistake. More 3 km to the final parking car. The trailhead to Agulha do Diabo is the same way to Pedra do Sino, the highest mountain of Nat’l Park. The trail starts at this parking car and, 4 hours by trail till “Cota 2000 mts” point, the start of Neblina Trail. Neblina is a hard trail with slippery rises and great and deep valleys but, this is the only access to the east wall. There aren't any register of climbing routes at the south side. Before the base, impressive mountains and great valleys show the powerful of the mountains. Around 2 hours walking by forest at the Neblina Trail until the main block. The trail isn’t easy but you can get the base with peace.

Neblina Trail
Mirante do Inferno is the classic overview of Agulha do Diabo and, when arrives there, only 1 hour to start the climb to the top. Everyone that cross the valley, stayed here by few minutes to look the impressive tower.

Overview from Mirante do Inferno, looking to the east wall. This is the side that start the climbing routes and, the shadowed valley is the only place to camp, in case of need.
Arriving the base, two points are dangerous:
Unha ( Nail ) is the “natural chimney” to win ( 3º III sup A1 ), a very cold place, where the wind can blow.
Looking up Unha
After Unha pass, the climber turn to right and get inside Cavalinho pass, a crack with 4 mts lenght and, 60 cm of width.

Cavalinho
This is the last slope to get Agulha do Diabo summit.

The last slope

Water only at the main trail to Pedra do Sino.




Red Tape

Dangerous routes, closed tracks turn the trail very hard. If the climber had a good map, and all equipments, Agulha do Diabo will be an unforgettable mountain in your life.
Classic Routes:
Crédito Divino – 4º IV A2+
Agulha do Diabo – 3º IIIsup A1
US$ 6 per day inside National Park
and, groups have to give notice before the climbing.

When To Climb


The best season to climb Agulha do Diabo is at Autumn-Winter ( May/September ). Another months are very hot and rains hard.

Camping

At Neblina Trail, only one place to camp for 2 tents near Geladeira Valley, the second valley after Cota 2000, without water;
Abrigo 4 at Pedra do Sino Trail, a lot of good places to camp, with two fountains.

Mountain Conditions

Teresópolis Current Weather

Serra dos Órgãos National Park telephone number:
0xx21 2742 1070;
0xx21 2742 0811.

Panoramas

Agulha do Diabo panoramas.