Route Climbed: Hispano-Chilena Date Climbed: July 1998
First ascent of this route that goes by the right hand gully of the french one. 16 hours, camp to camp. Dificulty 80ยบ, m4. Descent by the italian Route.
Route Climbed: Vasco Francesa Date Climbed: 20 July 2003
Ufff... Wonderful hill and also hard route..., specially if it is not called on to puntear. For that they are down, in the relief, the caidas ones of pieces of ice can return the dangerous and disagreeable ascent. The summit is very thin and costs to move from a side to another one, better to seat and to enjoy the Vista.
Route Climbed: Ferrari Date Climbed: August 18, 2003
After an aborted first attempt, during which we encountered the frozen corpse of an Israeli killed in the July avalanche that whacked 8, Page Kyle and I hiked back up for the French Direct, but at 2am, freezing cold, we found only an impenetrable 30 foot overhangin bergschrund with a powder lip. We traversed to the Ferrari on easy ground, but then encountered 25 feet of grade 5 ice, and then emerged into the main runnel, which had been raked at least a few times by big cornice avalanches during the 2003 season, one of which killed the aforementioned Israeli. What was left of the route was WI4, brittle, and not a little ugly. I broke a pick, and the gargoyles above were snarling, but we kept going until about 3 meters from the summit, where our heads hit the overhanging mushroom. The past 2 pitches had been enjoyable aero ice and styro-snow. Fearing the loss of hours to gain only a few vertical meters, we rapped before the whole damned summit fell down. The fixed gear is mashed, but still bombproof. This route is very dangerous now, and Peruvian guides have abandoned it. I suggest a rating of TD or so, mainly because of the intense hazard of icefall.
Route Climbed: Ferrari Date Climbed: July 2nd. 1999
We did not have a nice view from the summit that day. Alhough the route was in perfect conditions. The nice part of this owercrowded mountain is that all belays stations where fixed, so we all went down quickly.
kabernicola - Jan 25, 2006 7:08 am
Route Climbed: Hispano-Chilena Date Climbed: July 1998First ascent of this route that goes by the right hand gully of the french one. 16 hours, camp to camp. Dificulty 80ยบ, m4. Descent by the italian Route.
Andinista - Mar 11, 2005 2:08 pm
Route Climbed: Vasco Francesa Date Climbed: 20 July 2003Ufff... Wonderful hill and also hard route..., specially if it is not called on to puntear. For that they are down, in the relief, the caidas ones of pieces of ice can return the dangerous and disagreeable ascent. The summit is very thin and costs to move from a side to another one, better to seat and to enjoy the Vista.
risch - Jan 11, 2004 2:54 am
Route Climbed: Ferrariroute in the southeast- face Date Climbed: 15.July 2003We had wonderful weather and were alone at the mountain- this is not normal at Alpamayo!
hash - Aug 28, 2003 5:47 pm
Route Climbed: Ferrari Date Climbed: August 18, 2003After an aborted first attempt, during which we encountered the frozen corpse of an Israeli killed in the July avalanche that whacked 8, Page Kyle and I hiked back up for the French Direct, but at 2am, freezing cold, we found only an impenetrable 30 foot overhangin bergschrund with a powder lip. We traversed to the Ferrari on easy ground, but then encountered 25 feet of grade 5 ice, and then emerged into the main runnel, which had been raked at least a few times by big cornice avalanches during the 2003 season, one of which killed the aforementioned Israeli. What was left of the route was WI4, brittle, and not a little ugly. I broke a pick, and the gargoyles above were snarling, but we kept going until about 3 meters from the summit, where our heads hit the overhanging mushroom. The past 2 pitches had been enjoyable aero ice and styro-snow. Fearing the loss of hours to gain only a few vertical meters, we rapped before the whole damned summit fell down. The fixed gear is mashed, but still bombproof. This route is very dangerous now, and Peruvian guides have abandoned it. I suggest a rating of TD or so, mainly because of the intense hazard of icefall.
-Barry Hashimoto, Huaraz, Peru
TodoVertical - Dec 4, 2002 1:29 pm
Route Climbed: Ferrari Date Climbed: July 2nd. 1999We did not have a nice view from the summit that day. Alhough the route was in perfect conditions. The nice part of this owercrowded mountain is that all belays stations where fixed, so we all went down quickly.
max - May 13, 2002 1:06 pm
Route Climbed: Ferrari Date Climbed: July 1999It was a very long day (Col - summit - col - BC) and unfortunately the sight on top was not much above Zero.
sgudmann - Jan 15, 2002 10:33 am
Route Climbed: Ferrari Date Climbed: 09.06.00Had the fantastic view only for a few minutes, then it was clouded. But the feeling was great anyway.
UlrichPrinz - Oct 25, 2001 12:40 pm
Route Climbed: Basque-French (left of Ferrari) Date Climbed: 15 August 2001We wanted to do the 'French Direct', but snowfall and fog prevented that.
Following the tracks in the snow we summited in the clouds - no view :-(
You can find my Trip-Report and more pictures by going to my homepage:
http://UlrichPrinz.de and then follow the links to Travel and Peru.