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rischRoute Climbed: Ferrariroute in the southeast- face Date Climbed: 15.July 2003

risch

We had wonderful weather and were alone at the mountain- this is not normal at Alpamayo!
Posted Jan 11, 2004 2:54 am

hashRoute Climbed: Ferrari Date Climbed: August 18, 2003

hash

After an aborted first attempt, during which we encountered the frozen corpse of an Israeli killed in the July avalanche that whacked 8, Page Kyle and I hiked back up for the French Direct, but at 2am, freezing cold, we found only an impenetrable 30 foot overhangin bergschrund with a powder lip. We traversed to the Ferrari on easy ground, but then encountered 25 feet of grade 5 ice, and then emerged into the main runnel, which had been raked at least a few times by big cornice avalanches during the 2003 season, one of which killed the aforementioned Israeli. What was left of the route was WI4, brittle, and not a little ugly. I broke a pick, and the gargoyles above were snarling, but we kept going until about 3 meters from the summit, where our heads hit the overhanging mushroom. The past 2 pitches had been enjoyable aero ice and styro-snow. Fearing the loss of hours to gain only a few vertical meters, we rapped before the whole damned summit fell down. The fixed gear is mashed, but still bombproof. This route is very dangerous now, and Peruvian guides have abandoned it. I suggest a rating of TD or so, mainly because of the intense hazard of icefall.



-Barry Hashimoto, Huaraz, Peru
Posted Aug 28, 2003 5:47 pm

TodoVerticalRoute Climbed: Ferrari Date Climbed: July 2nd. 1999  Sucess!

TodoVertical

We did not have a nice view from the summit that day. Alhough the route was in perfect conditions. The nice part of this owercrowded mountain is that all belays stations where fixed, so we all went down quickly.
Posted Dec 4, 2002 1:29 pm

maxRoute Climbed: Ferrari Date Climbed: July 1999  Sucess!
It was a very long day (Col - summit - col - BC) and unfortunately the sight on top was not much above Zero.
Posted May 13, 2002 1:06 pm

sgudmannRoute Climbed: Ferrari Date Climbed: 09.06.00  Sucess!
Had the fantastic view only for a few minutes, then it was clouded. But the feeling was great anyway.
Posted Jan 15, 2002 10:33 am

UlrichPrinzRoute Climbed: Basque-French (left of Ferrari) Date Climbed: 15 August 2001  Sucess!

UlrichPrinz

We wanted to do the 'French Direct', but snowfall and fog prevented that.

Following the tracks in the snow we summited in the clouds - no view :-(

You can find my Trip-Report and more pictures by going to my homepage:

http://UlrichPrinz.de and then follow the links to Travel and Peru.

Posted Oct 25, 2001 12:40 pm

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