American direct (Directe Americaine) Climber's Log

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PeteThompson

PeteThompson - Aug 27, 2010 11:46 am

American Direct. Climbed August 1980  Sucess!

Climbed with Walter Phipps during my first season in the Alps. Walter took a long fall on the first of the layback/jamming pitches. We had an uncomfortable bivi at the top of the 90 Metre Diedre in slings. We didn't realise in the dark that there was a ledge around the corner. Many climbers abseil from the Jammed Block, but I really enjoyed the top part of the route. It was icy near the top. We only had rock shoes so we abseiled down the whole route. It's a brilliant climb. I don't know if it's still climbed since the rock fall.

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