Welcome to SP!  -

Ancient Art Climber's Log

Sort By:


[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
Viewing: 1-20 of 20    

deathzonescience great exposure   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 7, 2013

deathzonescience

Great exposure and a summit like no other. Probably the size of a pizza box. Mostly a 5.8 climb with a couple moves of 5.10 unaided.
Posted Apr 7, 2014 10:39 am

rasgoatGreat place  Sucess!

rasgoat

Love it, classic.
Posted Jun 19, 2013 12:12 am

MoonerUp I Go

Mooner

03/22/13 Lead pitches 1, 3, and 4 clean... next time I will climb it as only 2 pitches
Posted Mar 28, 2013 3:42 pm

Garon CorizShorter but Better Than Expected  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 29, 2012

Garon Coriz

Climbed with Mason and Will. Will led the 5.8 chimney while I did the rest free. It was a shorter climb than expected but it blew me completely away. The sidewalk on top was a little spicy but not as bad as the first few moves coming off the diving board.
Posted Oct 4, 2012 11:58 am

strudolyubovStolen Chimney  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 7, 2012

strudolyubov

Climbed Ancient Art with Yasu via Stolen Chimney route. Led all pitches. Great route to a spectacular summit!
Posted Apr 9, 2012 12:08 am

BLongGreat summit  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 28, 2012

BLong

A classic summit on a great desert tower. I really enjoyed this one. We camped in the truck at the trailhead and got an early start to begin the climb in front of the other parties heading up.
Posted Apr 3, 2012 8:32 pm

Alex WoodAwesome!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 14, 2012

Alex Wood

Climbed this with three other friends. We camped in Onion Creek (one of the best campsites I gave ever had) and got to the the base of Ancient Art by around 9am. We were the first ones on the route and there were two groups behind us. Awesome views and awesome climbing! The rock is surprisingly good for what it is. All the bolts were intact when we were there. The summitblock is a little loose.
Posted Mar 21, 2012 3:57 pm

Digglercrazy!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 18, 2012

Diggler

Quite the change from Castle Rock, which we climbed the day before- mud-coated rock that seemed like the wall of an ancient river-bed (I guess it probably was...) just a start. Hordes of people also hard to fathom. That there seemed to be dozens of them either highlining across spires, or just jumping off of them with parachutes even crazier! In retrospect, a bit bummed I didn't try to free the first bolt ladder (that one of the bolts noticeably flexed when I tested it pretty much sealed the deal for me- WTF??!!), but felt good that the rest went free. It was hard on the last pitch to not clip the fixed lines fixed by the BASE jumpers for extra insurance, but glad I didn't. Unprotected (albeit easy) traverse to the summit pinnacle, followed by the unprotected (again physically easy) mantle onto the "diving board" slightly unnerving when I thought of the death pendulum that would ensue if anything went wrong (couldn't help myself!). Not to mention the slight vibration/thud emanating from the diving board when I gave it a good hit with my fist. Greatly relieved after finally clipping that first bolt! Summit perhaps the most exposed I've ever been on, but then again that's why the whole thing is so spectacular! Did the obligatory 1-foot pose on the summit. Ha ha. Great day, great climb to end our wonderful intro to Moab climbing (Thanks, Faith). Quite glad we ran into (well, they overtook us) the guys from Colorado with bright headlamps on the return, who kept us from an unplanned bivy! Would enjoy doing this climb again!
Posted Feb 22, 2012 3:02 am

Rockclimber77via.. stolen chimney  Sucess!

Rockclimber77

super crowded. but after climbing it i understood why, its a great climb!
Posted Oct 24, 2011 1:50 am

Liba Kopeckovafun summit  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 22, 2011

Liba Kopeckova

a fun summit, very busy day - lots of parties, had to wait at some anchors over one hour.
Posted Oct 23, 2011 11:48 pm

Tom FralichStolen Chimney (5.9 A0)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 22, 2011

Tom Fralich

Quite an adventure to an amazing summit. The mud chimney on P2 was an interesting experience and the climbing on the corkscrew was EXPOSED! A great first day in the Moab area on our 2-week Utah road trip. We rounded out the day by climbing 30 Seconds to Potash at Wall Street.
Posted May 29, 2011 1:55 pm

shanahan96artistic merit  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 15, 2011

shanahan96

climbed ancient art via the stolen chimney w/aaron, eric and jason four weeks after getting shut down by a windstorm up high. today was just the opposite as we had the bluebird day with minimal wind on the corkscrew.

led P1 aiding off the quickdraws while receiving assistance from claire at the anchors. aaron and i cruised the now easy chimney to the large ledge before hooking up with eric and jason for the corkscrew. our group of four all mantled the diving board before roughing it on the crux pinches below the first bolt. it's all good from there. standing on the pizza box summit is a major rush! a good day all around

jamie
Posted Apr 18, 2011 10:58 pm

SarahThompsonChimney lovers dream  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 1, 2011

SarahThompson

The chimney pitch was a ton of fun, perfect for a chimney lover. Summit pitch was crazy but not too bad because I never looked down! Loved it. I'd do it again and again! Think I'd like to lead the chimney next time.
Posted Apr 3, 2011 7:20 pm

McCannsterSa-weeeeeet!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 11, 2010

McCannster

With Steve after weekend in the creek. This was one of the coolest, albeit bizarre climbs I've ever done. Pulling on crumbly, dirty holds while 300 feet off the deck was an experience. That summit pinnacle was surreal.
Posted Oct 12, 2010 1:04 am

patascentAwesome climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 8, 2009

patascent

Second time on the summit but this time I had a camera. What a blast! Thanks Rob.
Posted Aug 30, 2010 5:47 pm

GeoCliMb3RBeautiful
Date Climbed: Oct 20, 2001

GeoCliMb3R

Camped out by the river and got an early start. There was nobody around all day. This was a great climb and a must for any stop in Moab.
Posted Jul 5, 2010 11:25 pm

noahs213AWESOME  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2010

noahs213

Exposed and challenging.
Posted Jun 26, 2010 11:27 pm

utclimberStolen Chimney  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2004
I have climbed the Stolen Chimney route twice, once in September 2004, and again in November 2005. Great route.
Posted Mar 11, 2010 10:23 am

bc44caesarStolen Chimney  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 27, 2009

bc44caesar

Climbed the whole thing free with Greg H. Spectacular summit!
Posted Nov 30, 2009 5:04 am

ScottFun climb via Stolen Chimney  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 24, 2009

Scott

Kim, Shaylee, Kessler and I met Kris in Grand Junction at which time we drove down to the Fisher Towers. We all hiked to the base of Ancient Art and waited about 30 minutes for another party to finish climbing the first three pitches (we were there at the same time, but I suggested they go first since I felt that they would move faster; in reality we found that we climb faster).

Kris and I climbed Ancient Art while Kim and the kids watched from below. Although it was windy, things went smoothly and quickly and at the top of the P2 (P3 ion Desert Rock) we waited another 30 minutes (we made sure we weren’t in the way of any other parties) for a lull in the wind and for the other climbers ahead of us to finish the climb, but we never got any lulls in the wind lasting more than one minute. We climbed P3 (called P4 in Desert Rock). It was still extremely windy and I chickened out as far as standing on the Corkscrew is concerned. It was scary enough just straddling that narrow “Sidewalk in the Sky” section while being buffeted by the winds. I hate high winds in exposed places; they always make me nervous.

While descending it was so windy that the rope thrown off the third pitch and down the chimney didn’t go down the chimney, it was blown sideways. You could watch it drop maybe 10 feet and could see and hear the rope go sideways.

It was a really great climb. We finished just in time because on the way down there was a group of very slow college students and the weather was also taking a turn for the worst with clouds and rainclouds “spitting” a bit.
Posted Apr 27, 2009 8:26 pm

Viewing: 1-20 of 20    
[ Return to 'Ancient Art' main page ]