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Andromeda Strain, 5.7-5.8
Route

Andromeda Strain, 5.7-5.8

 
Andromeda Strain, 5.7-5.8

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 34.03926°N / 116.19442°W

Object Title: Andromeda Strain, 5.7-5.8

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)

Difficulty: 5.7-5.8

Number of Pitches: 1

Grade: I

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Marcsoltan

Created/Edited: Jun 28, 2010 / Jun 28, 2010

Object ID: 632769

Hits: 2265 

Page Score: 81.84%  - 14 Votes 

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Overview

 
Placing pro near the top
 
 
AFPA Rock
 


Andromeda Strain is the name of a route on AFPA Rock in Joshua Tree National Park, California.

I have spoken at some length about the proximity of AFPA Rock to Trashcan Rock/Quail Springs, and how this closeness has caused AFPA Rock, to a great measure, to be over looked. From time to time, however, you find climbing teams seeking a bit of seclusion playing on AFPA Rock. More often than not, the route of choice is Andromeda Strain, originally rated 5.8. It has now been down-rated to 5.7.

Route Description:

Andromeda Strain is a fine route starting on low angle face on the largest face in the middle of AFPA formation. After clipping a bolt it heads up and left to gain a crack system on the left side of the face. Climb up this crack to gain the lower angle rock and a few stances to rest on, and to place protection about two thirds of the way up the route. The last one third of the route is scrambling up a blocky sections to the top.

Second option to do this route:

After clipping the bolt low on the route head straight up the face to a horizontal crack. Past this crack, continue up and left to gain the lower angle stances two thirds of the way up the rock. From here climb up the short blocky sections to the top.

Topo


The route
 
Final moves
 
Looking up from the base
 

How to get there

 
Joshua Tree
 
 
Road sign to the crag
 

From the west entrance to Joshua Tree National Park drive about 5.8 miles on Park Boulevard. You will see a sign indicating "Quail Springs." This is your parking. There is ample parking, bathrooms and picnic benches. Walk back to the boulevard and head east toward Intersection Rock and Hidden Valley Campground. AFPA Rock will be on your left and only two hundred yards from Quail Springs parking.

Essential Gear

One 60 meter rope, standard rack, pro to 3 inches, several slings, extra carabiners, a watchful belayer.

External Links

Images

Placing pro near the topJoshua TreeLooking up from the baseAFPA RockFinal movesThe route