Angle's Way : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

This is an amazing route; it goes right the widest crack/chimney on the face. It is a very challenging and difficult route but one of the most fun routes I have ever climbed. You will use just about every climbing move that you know. There are actually 3 crux on this route. The cruxes are at the overhangs. The "crux" is at the giant block/chockstone in the middle. The only thing that I disliked about the route was that it was extremely dirty, a few times I had dirt fly into my eyes. The dirt in the crack really can't be cleaned out though.

Some people have expressed their dislike of this being a bolted route. John Gregory had it bolted because there is not many places in the chimney for bomber placement. Further more. John says that you will need 5 or more six 4 and bigger cams to trad climb it. It is hard to find one cam that size in the UAE let alone 5.

Getting There

This is the only fully bolted route in the area. There is also one sport/trad route to the right of this one.

this route is number 4 in the topo and drawn in red.

Essential Gear

You will need at least a 6m rope with at least 15 quickdraws.

Images

$Angle\'s Way$