A 4.30am start from Marrakech got us to Oukaimeden at about 6.15. Setting off at 7am the going was great, all the way up to the col by 9, then to the main traverse at about 3400m by 10.30. Then we slowed down!
The rock route started off fine, however, as we were a party of 6 with a couple of novices being instructed, the going was SLOW. It took us a massive 11 hours to get up the face, 4 great pitches. There was snow, there was ice, fantastic exposure and some superb views. I managed to catch the sunset at the top at 5.30, the last man up arrived at 9!
Descent was via the gully seperating the two peaks, steep, lots of snow and some ice. Careful route finding needed towards the bottom of the gully (we were doing it in the dark!) to avoid a waterfall.
Back at the car by 1am, and tucked up in bed in Marrakech by 3.30. A great way to spend the day.
"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe