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Anteater, 5.7R-5.11b
Mountain/Rock

Anteater, 5.7R-5.11b

 
Anteater, 5.7R-5.11b

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Idaho, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 42.09653°N / 113.69728°W

Object Title: Anteater, 5.7R-5.11b

Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Elevation: 6400 ft / 1951 m

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Jul 18, 2012 / Jul 13, 2014

Object ID: 800936

Hits: 873 

Page Score: 77.48%  - 8 Votes 

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Overview/Approach

 
Swiss Cheese, 5.7R
 

Anteater is a distinct (sharp) summit feature at the City of Rocks similar to its brethren to the north, Incisor (aka Morning Glory Spire). Both are reached by hiking just behind and south of Parking Lot Rock. Anteater does not look much like an anteater up close, but rather the best perspective to see its namesake shape is from a pullout along the main road just to the west. It’s most popular route and one of the more popular routes in the entire park is Scream Cheese (5.9), a bolted line up its right arête. Swiss Cheese (5.7R), just to the left of Scream Cheese, is a unique experience in that it only has two bolts leading up huge “elephant ear” patina holds securing it an R rating. This is a fun solo opportunity at the City. Smurf Smasher (5.11a) offers a very aesthetic looking thin crack running up the southwest corner of Anteater.
 
Scream Cheese, 5.9
 

Anteater along with Incisor offer great morning shade and late afternoon sun. Park at the Parking Lot Rock parking area and take the right fork from the main trail heading in. Circumvent Parking Lot Rock to the south and turn left at a signed trail leading to both Incisor and Anteater. Take the right fork and head up to a large slabby belay ledge a few meters off the ground. This is your belay for the first four routes below. For the rest, stay on the trail that leads south of Parking Lot Rock and meander left over indistinct trails to the very base of the southwest face of Anteater.

Route Description(s)

 
Swiss Cheese, 5.7R
 
 
Scream Cheese, 5.9
 

WEST FACE
Routes Listed Left to Right as you face the Wall
  • She-Bob- 5.9/

  • Swiss Cheese- 5.7R/
  • This is a worthwhile solo opportunity at the City. Two bolts protect this mostly run out face up through a final stem feature to chains. It features huge “elephant ear” patina jugs the whole way. Dow

  • Velveeta- 5.8TR/

  • Scream Cheese- 5.9/
  • This is a decent bolted face up the arête with thinner edges (crux) towards the top. It is well bolted and not the typical run out slab to finish you will find on some City routes. Worth doing, but a bit more popular than it deserves in my opinion. Single 60m rope. Dow

    SOUTHWEST FACE
    Routes Listed Left to Right as you face the Wall
  • Holding Out for a Hero- 5.10a/
  • (spicy start)

  • Wheat Fat- 5.11b/

  • Body Snatcher- 5.10z!/
  • (book calls it a horrible wide crack, I might have to check this out next time!)

  • Smurf Smasher- 5.11a/
  • (looks beautiful, a must for me next trip)

  • Fly Boy- 5.10d/
  • External Links

  • City of Rocks National Reserve
  • Castle Rocks State Park
  • Rock City, the place for beers
  • Images

    Scream Cheese, 5.9Scream Cheese, 5.9Holding Out for a Hero, 5.10aSwiss Cheese, 5.7RSwiss Cheese, 5.7R