Dow Williams - Jul 21, 2015 2:34 pm Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2015
Anti Jello Crack
With client, his idea actually, I led all the pitches. This 2nd pitch is one of the more sustained 5.9 trad pitches you will ever encounter and thus one of the finer splitters at the grade in the lower 48. Most of the pitch is in the .3-.4 range. I did little to any lay backing on lead (why it probably is 5.9 vs 5.10). Just take the crack straight in moving your feet up the slab on the left. When the crack peters out at the bush, climb slight scoops up the left side to access the crack as it opens again. Continue straight up for a few more meters then traverse almost straight left on 5.8 slab to just below the fixed anchor. The crux of the third pitch is stout for 5.10a...I have led many 10b's and c's in Jtree that were easier. The first three quarters of the pitch is fairly mellow and protects well. Follow the flake to the very top and extend one final medium piece in the flake. With your right hand grab the black hand sized chicken head and lean back left into the closed to tips corner. The next 25’ involve micro cams and/or nuts. The crux is keeping purchase with your left foot on polished slab whilst trying to place micro pro. Some palming of the arête mixed with a few tip pockets allow you to work your right toe up the corner and keep your balance with your left foot out on the polished and featureless slab. The final two meters lets up as you jump the arête to the fixed anchor. Very fun route with a short approach. Single micro to C4#2. Double .1 to C4#.5. Triple from C4#.3 to .4. Full set of micro-small off set nuts. Time to use all the micro cams you and your partner might own if you want to sew up the crux in quick fashion.
haishan - Sep 11, 2013 1:25 pm Date Climbed: May 27, 2013
Loved this route
Fingers on p2 is super-classic. I found the p3 crux much harder and headier... tips layback and pro is difficult.
Finally got off the couch and did this. The second pitch was true to rating, but the last felt very tricky. While one though the 3rd pitch was .10a, another thought it felt more like .10c. Baffling pitch either way.
Kerstin - Nov 21, 2006 4:54 am Date Climbed: Jun 30, 1985
A beautiful route
We climbed this June 30th and then again the next day. If I remember correctly, I think this was the hardest climb I ever led.
Dow Williams - Jul 21, 2015 2:34 pm Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2015
Anti Jello CrackWith client, his idea actually, I led all the pitches. This 2nd pitch is one of the more sustained 5.9 trad pitches you will ever encounter and thus one of the finer splitters at the grade in the lower 48. Most of the pitch is in the .3-.4 range. I did little to any lay backing on lead (why it probably is 5.9 vs 5.10). Just take the crack straight in moving your feet up the slab on the left. When the crack peters out at the bush, climb slight scoops up the left side to access the crack as it opens again. Continue straight up for a few more meters then traverse almost straight left on 5.8 slab to just below the fixed anchor. The crux of the third pitch is stout for 5.10a...I have led many 10b's and c's in Jtree that were easier. The first three quarters of the pitch is fairly mellow and protects well. Follow the flake to the very top and extend one final medium piece in the flake. With your right hand grab the black hand sized chicken head and lean back left into the closed to tips corner. The next 25’ involve micro cams and/or nuts. The crux is keeping purchase with your left foot on polished slab whilst trying to place micro pro. Some palming of the arête mixed with a few tip pockets allow you to work your right toe up the corner and keep your balance with your left foot out on the polished and featureless slab. The final two meters lets up as you jump the arête to the fixed anchor. Very fun route with a short approach. Single micro to C4#2. Double .1 to C4#.5. Triple from C4#.3 to .4. Full set of micro-small off set nuts. Time to use all the micro cams you and your partner might own if you want to sew up the crux in quick fashion.
haishan - Sep 11, 2013 1:25 pm Date Climbed: May 27, 2013
Loved this routeFingers on p2 is super-classic. I found the p3 crux much harder and headier... tips layback and pro is difficult.
fatdad - Jul 18, 2011 6:31 pm Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2011
Good stuffFinally got off the couch and did this. The second pitch was true to rating, but the last felt very tricky. While one though the 3rd pitch was .10a, another thought it felt more like .10c. Baffling pitch either way.
Kerstin - Nov 21, 2006 4:54 am Date Climbed: Jun 30, 1985
A beautiful routeWe climbed this June 30th and then again the next day. If I remember correctly, I think this was the hardest climb I ever led.