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Antisana Climber's Log

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wmollandWest Face Direct
Date Climbed: Jan 20, 2011

wmolland

Climbed the West Face Direct under perfect conditions. Clear, star-filled night with light winds. Left at about 1, got just below the summit by about 6:30 but were thwarted by an overhanging icewall. We traversed left and right but found no suitable route to the top. On the return we saw that if we had traversed far far to the right, perhaps 700 meters, we could have made the summit. Oh well.
Posted Feb 1, 2011 1:47 pm

EpicaA wild mountain!
Date Climbed: Nov 20, 2009

Epica

I had time for one more mountain in Ecuador, and really wanted to go to Antisana. I found a guide who knew the route and we camped just 10 minutes from the glacier. We left camp at 1:30 am and got to just below the summit around 6:30. It took a few hours for the three of us to climb the slightly over-hung wall and crumbing snow, but we all made it! Unfortunately it got cloudy at the top and couldn't see much, but it was a very fun and challenging mountain!
Posted Nov 24, 2009 10:51 pm

colintnormal route up, west face down  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 5, 2007

colint

Our team of three climbed up the circuitous and crevasse-ridden normal route of Antisana under clear skies. We reached the summit at about 8am after a 2:30 am start from a base camp at the toe of the glacier. Another team was on the summit when we arrived. They had ascended the west face direct. The gaping crevasse Scott mentioned (truly a monster) had a convenient snow bridge across it. We descended that route. The crevasse difficulties were considerably greater on the ´normal´ route. The tour de Antisana was a memorable climb and I do not regret the long route. However, I think one partner does! P.S. with clear skies the entire time, we saw nearly every mountain in Ecuador, including all of the 5000m+ peaks, and at least three smoking volcanoes. WOW!!!! I will definitely post some pics when I have a chance.
Posted Dec 6, 2007 3:22 pm

ScottBeautiful climb!
Date Climbed: Jan 13, 2006

Scott

Antisana is a great mountain and a real beauty of a peak. We climbed the mountain via a route near the West Face Direct, but couldn't quite stand on the true summit due to a huge gaping crevasse. All other sides were surrounded by avy prone ice cliffs and seracs and formed a serious obstacle for standing on the true summit.

It sure is a beatiful mountain and one of my best climbs ever. The only problem was that we left too early so it was dark until we were well on our way down the mountain. I sure wish we could have seen the sunrise from the top and bet it would be specatacular.
Posted Jan 22, 2007 4:50 am

kili0601Route Climbed: Normal Route? Date Climbed: 1/06  Sucess!

kili0601

Definitely a fun climb. Not sure on the route name as I think the route(s) on this peak change often with the very active glacier. Route finding is the biggest obstacle, not very technical. Mountain is in very good condition this year. A fairly long day, we did it in just under twelve hours.
Posted Jan 24, 2006 4:54 pm

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