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peakrat76Apache Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 11, 1981

peakrat76

My wife and I did an open air bivy near the base of the climb. Lots of bats zoomed close over head at sunset. Got up early and did the nice snow route with a fast glissade coming down. Wonderful Indian Peaks summit.
Posted Jan 3, 2008 1:43 pm

shanahan96snowy east ledges  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 6, 2007

shanahan96

climbed the moderately snowy east ledges with jamie nellis. the forecast for snow never materialized, and we had a gorgeous autumn day! quite the interesting outing

jamie
Posted Oct 7, 2007 4:34 pm

georgbetsyFair Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2007

georgbetsy

This was one of the most exhausting and longest trips I have ever done. However, it was also the most well-rounded trip (hike, scramble, steep snow/ice, low 5th class rock, beautiful scenery) that I have done so far. In summary, a great trip, beautiful day, some threatening weather, icy glacier/couloir.
Posted Aug 13, 2007 10:47 am

Joe_ParvisScared on North Ridge (Kasparov)
Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2007

Joe_Parvis

Attempted North Ridge with group from CHAOS, but could not complete the route due to rain/hail. I was significantly nervous with the exposure on some sections of the route, and although I was able to continue, I had anxiety at regular critical points. We reached the gap between King's Pawn and King; hail and rain (wet rocks) had us descend before gully. I need more 'exposure to exposure' to become more comfortable, and hope to return. If you are comfortable with exposure and 3rd/4th class, you should enjoy the route. Beware loose rock - it is very easy to knock off, piled on ledge systems.
Posted Jul 16, 2007 5:49 pm

WestEndAllStarQueen's way round trip  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2007

WestEndAllStar

Very fun moderate snow route. The glissade down was a little tedious due to all of the old rockfall in the couloiur, but overall it was a blast. Definitely bring your skis if you are a competent backcountry skier.
Posted Jul 6, 2007 6:28 pm

Park5.6Queens Way  Sucess!

Park5.6

Nice. Then went over to Navajo for an enjoyable romp on the North Face.
Posted Apr 16, 2007 2:58 am

boisedoceast ledge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 1999

boisedoc

Some fun routefinding through the ledges. Maybe a bit of class 3. Great views from the top.
Posted Jul 19, 2006 5:03 am

wlloydQueen's Way  Sucess!

wlloyd

Late June 2002: a low snow year. Was hitting buried rocks in Queen's way couloir while climbing up with the ice axe. Snow pack very thin! Very abnormal. Typically snow lasts year round in the couloir and you don't hit rocks.

Would like to climb from Fair Glacier / Triangle lake sometime

late June 2003: climbed Apache couloir, much better snow year, descended Queen's way

September 2004: climbed and skied queen's way couloir, fresh snow in the couloir

May 21 2006: climbed and skied Queen's way couloir. Continuous run from top of the cont. divide ridge (13400+') to trailhead (10500')

Classic climb & Incredible scenery
How many Colorado peaks have 3 permanent snow fields?
Isabelle Glacier, Fair Glacier, and the nearby Navajo snowfield.
Posted Jun 1, 2006 6:54 am

Mountain JimApache Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 3, 1967

Mountain Jim

Total ascents = 2. Second time, climbed Apache Couloir then traversed across the ridge and climbed Navajo.
Posted Apr 29, 2006 12:33 am

iwlclmeverestRoute Climbed: Apache Coulier Date Climbed: 10/9/05  Sucess!

iwlclmeverest

Weather forecast was for snow, and it did. All day long. Got around eight inches while on the route then some more on the way down. Great climb, very exciting at times.
Posted Oct 9, 2005 8:28 pm

pksanderRoute Climbed: Apache Couloir, descent via East Ledges Date Climbed: August 14, 2005  Sucess!

pksander

Great climb with Fabio in weather other than forecasted (no rain).
Posted Aug 14, 2005 7:00 pm

CharlesDRoute Climbed: Apache Couloir, descent of Queen's Way Couloir Date Climbed: July 21, 2005  Sucess!

CharlesD

Beautiful scenery on our pre-dawn approach. Soft conditions on the way up and very soft on the way down. Fantastic scenery and a fine summit. Great way to beat the heat down in the lowlands (where the temperature was 100+ degrees!).
Posted Jul 22, 2005 3:53 pm

ChrisRoute Climbed: Apache Couloir w/ descent of Queen's Way Date Climbed: July 10, 2005  Sucess!

Chris

Awesome day, awesome climb!
Posted Jul 10, 2005 11:12 pm

jonpierreRoute Climbed: apache couloir Date Climbed: 7/02/05  Sucess!

jonpierre

my partners and i (fritzsperry + mike) climbed apache couloir 7/2/05. we hiked into the basin and started the steep ascent up the couloir of apache mtn. we reached the summit around 10am. the ski/snowboard descent of apache couloir was awesome, the snow was super slush about 4-5" down to a nice firm consolidated base. get an early start. there is still plenty of snow back there. contact me if you want pics of the snow pack
Posted Jul 4, 2005 2:31 pm

virginiapineRoute Climbed: Isabelle Gl. to N. Ridge Date Climbed: begin. July, 2002  Sucess!

virginiapine

A fun route with the additional interest of climbing a rare Colorado glacier, and then great scrambling along the North Ridge over a sub-peak to reach the summit. Descent via Apache Couloir.
Posted Jun 14, 2005 10:59 am

RyanSRoute Climbed: East Ledges, descent via South Ridge Date Climbed: July 25, 2004  Sucess!

RyanS

I liked this climb. We took an exciting variation to start with by climbing slabs just south of Apache Couloir. We joined the standard route above these slabs and enjoyed the light scrambling to the summit ridge. We descended the south ridge to the Apache/Navajo saddle, adding more scrambling and excitement to our day, plus a close-up view of Dickers Peck. From the saddle, we climbed Navajo by its West Chimney route. A trip report is available here.
Posted Jul 26, 2004 6:02 pm

jeffgunRoute Climbed: Unnamed couloir Date Climbed: September 14 2003  Sucess!

jeffgun

My partner Pete and I had intended to go up Queens Way couloir but we arrived a little late and there was already some rockfall coming down so we decided to go up the next couloir to the south. It was pretty dicey and we ended up kicking down a fair amount of rocks on our way up. We attempted to come down the East Ledges but ended up getting cut off by the cliffs to the north of them. Finally we opted to take the same couloir we had come up to descend. Again, very steep with lots of loose rock. At one point I slid about 25 feet on the rolling rock, unable to arrest the slide. Needless to say, we were glad to get back in the drainage and hike out. If anyone knows the name of the couloir that we took, please e-mail me.
Posted Nov 15, 2003 4:35 pm

JonBradfordRoute Climbed: Queens Way Coulior Date Climbed: September 1, 2003  Sucess!

JonBradford

I climbed this route with my dog Sopris. Prior to our entering the coulior we witnessed the most spectacular and scary rockfall incident of I could imagine... a boulder the size of a short school bus crashed onto and slid down the Isabelle Glacier right before our eyes. I was completely awed by the violence of this event. And I felt uneasy the whole day... This may have been the most difficult summit my dog has tackled. (tis a tie between Apache and Mount Richthofen...) The looseness of the upper slope suprised me.

Jon Bradford
Posted Oct 24, 2003 12:44 am

Jim ClarkeRoute Climbed: Queen's Way and Apache Coulior Date Climbed: 7/14/00 + other dates  Sucess!

Jim Clarke

A great peak for getting dailed on snowclimbing and ski descents. June and even early July still occasionally hold some good snow in the couliors.
Posted Oct 1, 2003 2:58 pm

PeterD.Route Climbed: Queen's Way. Date Climbed: 1 August 2003  Sucess!
I finally made it to the summit after several previous attempts. This is a serious peak, unlike many of the trail hikes in this popular area. The Queens Way is moderate but not intimidating, and can be done with an ice axe and crampons. I only used these strap on 4 prong crampons which fit on any footware- they were marginally adequate at best. At the top of the couloir hike up the relatively easy talus to the summit. I had to leave from the top after only a few minutes because of an approaching storm. I almost got steered into the wrong descent route, so make a mental note of the top of the Queens Way if this is your descent route. Ended up glissading most of the way down the Way because of loosing my footing too often.
Posted Aug 2, 2003 12:18 am

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