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Applied Magnetics, 5.9
Route

Applied Magnetics, 5.9

 
Applied Magnetics, 5.9

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 34.45450°N / 119.6235°W

Object Title: Applied Magnetics, 5.9

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.9 (YDS)

Difficulty: 5.8

Number of Pitches: 1

Grade: I

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Marcsoltan

Created/Edited: Nov 19, 2010 / Apr 15, 2014

Object ID: 679979

Hits: 1031 

Page Score: 84.82%  - 19 Votes 

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Overview

 
The first half of the route
 
 
Topo of the route
 
 
Finger pockets at the start of the route
Finger pockets at the start

Applied Magnetics is the name of a route on San Ysidro Rock in the San Ysidro Canyon in the Santa Ynez Mountains, an area in the Los Padres National Forest of Southern California.

When you approach the San Ysidro Rock the first route you come to is a smooth rock with scars of fallen thin flakes and dabs of climbing chalk. This is Vanishing Flakes, rated 10d-11a. You often see people working the first fifteen feet of the route on top rope. Moving a few feet to the right will bring you to a right facing, heavily featured corner. This is Rockocco, 5.5. Five feet to the right of Rockcocco, you will find a crack system climbing straight up the rock. This is Applied Magnetics.


Applied Magnetics has an interesting first ascent history. According to the climbing guide book to this area by Steve Tucker and Kevin Steele, the earliest all free ascent of this route was done by the legendary American climber, Yvon Chouinard, and the famous British Mountaineer, Chris Bonnington. Yvon Chouinard, the long time resident of Ventura, used to host internationally renowned climbers such as Chris Bonnington, and it was during one of these visits in the 1970s that the two made the first ascent of Applied Magnetics.

Route Description:

The route is pretty straight forward, at least to start. Climb the obvious crack with finger pockets until it peters out. At this point the route may become a bit confusing. Some people head straight up the closed seam without any protection. The best option, however, is to climb up and left onto a friction face past a bolt to the top and a bolt anchor.

Descent:

The best way to descend is to rappel from the anchor bolts as the erosion has turned the gully into NOT the best option.

Essential Equipment:

Carry a 60 meter rope and a standard rack of nuts and cams to 1.5 inches.

Getting There

How to get there:

 
Near the top
 
 
Trailhead
 

From Highway 101 take the San Ysidro Exit and head toward the mountains. Drive to Montecito Village where San Ysidro Road intersects East Valley Road. Turn right on East Valley Road and cross a small bridge to Park Lane. Turn left on Park Lane and veer left onto Mountain Drive. A short drive up Mountain Drive will bring you to the trailhead sign. Park off the pavement, please. We’d like to keep the access open and free.

Head up the well marked San Ysidro to Camino Cielo trailhead passed private properties and public and fire roads. There are two locked gates for fire trucks. Go around these two gates. In about fifteen minutes you will see the main rock formation on your left. About 200 hundred feet before reaching the rock, drop down a short distance and cross the creek on rocks. A short hike up the canyon will bring you to the first climb, Vanishing Flakes. Walk about fifteen feet to the right of Vanishing Flakes to a straight up crack with finger pockets, Applied Magnetics.

Important Note:

Lookout for poison oak when crossing the creek. I have seen poison oak even closer to the rock.
For what poison oak looks like see the next chapter.




I am not a doctor and this is not medical advice, however, a tip from a friend has saved my life many time for the past fifteen years. The tip is that if you rub alcohol where you think you may have come in contact with poison oak the oils will break down before they have time to penetrate the skin. I carry a small bottle of rubbing alcohol with me for that exact purpose. I am extremely allergic to Poison Oak, and I have not had any allergic reactions since I started this practice.



For more discussion on the treatment for poison oak exposure and sensitivity see the following link:


Poison Oak


Poison Oak

 
Poison oak
poison oak, note the three petal grouping



I am not a doctor and this is not medical advice, however, a tip from a friend has saved my life many time for the past fifteen years. The tip is that if you rub alcohol where you think you may have come in contact with poison oak the oils will break down before they have time to penetrate the skin. I carry a small bottle of rubbing alcohol with me for that exact purpose. I am extremely allergic to Poison Oak, and I have not had any allergic reactions since I started this practice.



For more discussion on the treatment for poison oak exposure and sensitivity see the following link:


Poison Oak

Images

Doug making a quick...Finger pockets at the start of the routeUpper friction faceTopo of the routeThe first half of the routeNear the topYours Truly
Above the cruxGetting ready for the friction face