Arch Enemy, 5.9

Arch Enemy, 5.9

2nd Pitch- 80’- 5.9/ This is one of the more interesting pitches at Red Rocks. Run up the white hollow (somewhat precarious) flake in the arch. It will be hard to find much friction on the wall during the winter where the sandstone has been scraped by water runoff. There are two bolts on the wall, but the 2nd bolt is eroded and serves little purpose. It is best to focus on finding some pro in the arch at that point. Gravity works against you and makes the crawling up the flake a tad awkward, but eventually you can turn around and face out into a true chimney position on much better rock. Here you will get a few good pieces in, one bomber .75 will be on the wall behind you as you chimney up. Eventually, as the chasm widens, you will flip and face the wall with a great rest stance or two and can place another bomber .5” piece with a double length runner off to your left. Continue through a squeeze section to the top of the arch and walk over to a mid rappel/belay station half way up the 2nd pitch of Solar Slab. (photos) Arch Enemy, 5.9, 3 Pitches, Upper Solar Slab, Oak Creek Canyon, Red Rocks, NV, February, 2009
Dow Williams
on Feb 23, 2009 3:28 pm
Image Type(s): Rock Climbing
Image ID: 492378

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rpc

rpc - Feb 23, 2009 3:40 pm - Voted 10/10

pretty dang interesting

looking pitch!

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Feb 23, 2009 4:08 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: pretty dang interesting

must do Radek next time you are on the upper tier....will add the notes shortly, not much on it out there, Josh just learned of it last week...Handren has it in there, but no FA info...cheers

rpc

rpc - Feb 23, 2009 4:20 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: pretty dang interesting

Dow, did you manage to get on Eagle Dance (think you mentioned it)? We were able to get our credited airfares reserved/used this past weekend (not ideal but oh well...) & made it there for a quick in-and-out: 1am Sat to 4pm Sunday. Climbed DOWT on Saturday (your beta was right on the money) & not much on our 1/2 day Sunday (drizzle on & off after about lunch). cheers!

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Feb 23, 2009 5:09 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: pretty dang interesting

Unfortuantly Joe and I scheduled it again for Sunday, and again we had to bail...this time we made it to the base of the route, 2.5 hours...although I think I have scouted out the shorter version (5th class approach) for next time...we huddled at the base way back in there for 1.5 hrs, watching those clouds roll over with hats, jackets and gloves on, and did not bail until it started a light rain (10:30 up there) so we could at least say we were "hard men"....looking for a reason to say "uncle" I guess...did get two good days in with Pat B of SP on Fri-Sat. Catch you guys next time. Cheers.

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Feb 28, 2009 9:38 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Hey Dow

thanks Fred, fun climb...

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