Oregon Pinnacles

Area/Range

Oregon Pinnacles

Page Type: Area/Range

Location: Oregon, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 32.84000°N / 113.91°W

Activities: Hiking, Trad Climbing, Aid Climbing, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Page By: rpc

Created/Edited: Jan 12, 2006 / Jul 9, 2008

Object ID: 171071

Hits: 3885

Page Score: 90.08% - 21 Votes

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Table of Contents

Overview

Listing Of Formations And Routes

Oregon's Tower Triple Crown

More Towers

Images

Overview

Turkey Monster

This page is meant to serve as an at-a-glance reference of the various pinnacle and dome routes in Oregon. Individual pages are for the most part self-contained so no additional information needs to be posted. A more comprehensive summary of Smith Rock spires can be found here. This is Oregon adventure peak-bagging at its finest - enjoy!

Another related object that might have some related info. is here.

Spire Rock

Castle Rock

Listing Of Formations And Routes

Scared

Bolts Everywhere

The evolving list below provides at-a-glance summary of formations and routes. Only those routes that reach the summit of a given formation are listed.

Note that I've also thrown in some non-tower/non-spire formations (examples include Wolf Rock, Pilot Rock, Acker Rock) based on the fact that most hold obscure lines on them that rarely get done (just like spires) and the fact that they DO have a summit. I suppose this could be called "Oregon Adventure Climbs" page but that sounds less dramatic.

Central Oregon

West Face

Northeast Face

Steins Pillar

Squaw Rock

Rising Expectations

Monkey Face

Monkey Face (Smith)
Pioneer Route II 5.7 A0
West Face Variation II 5.8 A0
Monkey Space II 5.11b
West Face III 5.6 C2
Northwest Passage III 5.7 C2
East Face III 5.7 C2+

Smith Rock Group Spires (Smith)
West Smith Summit A0
Arrowpoint - Northwest Face 5.2
The Platform 5.1 R

Staender Ridge Spires (Smith)
Flattop - Lost Fox 5.8
Flattop - Lieback Flake 5.4
Bette's Needle - Juniper Snag 5.6 R
Bette's Needle - Limestone Chimney 5.3
Staender Summit - Northwest Corner 5.3
Independence Tower - North Side 5.5
The Mole - North Ramp Variation 5.0

The Marsupials Spires (Smith)
Kangaroo - North Ledges 5.6 R
Koala Rock - Round River 5.4 R
Brogan Spire - Cave Route 5.6
The Marsupial Traverse 5.8
Brogan Spire - Loose Hookers 5.6 A1+

Squaw Rock (Smith)
Spiral I 5.1 X

Steins Pillar
Northeast Face III 5.8 A2 or 5.11a

Western Oregon

Barad-Dur

Dod Route

Cave Route

Turkey Monster

Old Man

Rabbit Ears

Turkey Monster
Dod Route III 5.11 or C2F

Rabbit Eears (Southern Cascades)
West Ear Summit Route 5.5

Old Man and Old Woman
Dilley's Delight(Old Man) II 5.9
Northwest Ridge(Old Woman) I 5.4 R

Rabbit Ears (Menagerie)
Standard Route (South Ear) III 5.8 R
The Cave Route (North Ear) II 5.10a

Rooster Rock (Menagerie)
North Face 5.4 R

Pilot Rock

Wolf Rock
Coligula 5.7
Southwest Gullies Class 2-3
Barad Dur III 5.9 A2 or 5.11

Acker Rock
Peregrine Traverse 5.7

Shepard Tower Of Metolius
Northeast Corner 5.2

Elephant Rock
Ugly Loose Grovelly Chimney 5.7

Spire Rock
Southeast Corner 5.5

Columbia River Gorge

South Face

Pillars Of Hercules

Rooster Rock
South Face I 5.4

Pillars Of Hercules
East Route I 5.4

St. Peters Dome
South Saddle Direct (?) III A3 (?)

The Rabbit Ears (a.k.a. Sacajawea & Pappoose Rocks)
North Face/Gully (TR) II 5.4

Beacon Rock (...practically Oregon)
Southeast Face II 5.7

Little Cougar Rock
South Ridge 5.5

Eastern Oregon

Castle Rock

Castle Rock
The Route low 5th class

Oregon's Tower Triple Crown

My choice for Oregon's three biggest towers is below. There might be other reasonable candiates (Monkey Face, Twin Pillars, others?) here but these in my mind are the ones that stand out. The top two have free (5.11) routes to their summits (though we aided both) while St. Peters Dome is strictly a nail-up. Easiest summit line ratings given for each as well. Rank number reflects my opinion as to the relative difficulty of the three (1 being easiest). Thanks to Anya Jingle for allowing me to use her html code as starting point for this.

Difficulty Rank

Tower

Photo Of The Tower

Easiest Summit Route

Location

The Pillar