Overview & Photo IntroductionThe San Juan Mountains are Colorado’s largest mountain range by area. Ten thousand square miles of the state’s southwest corner are covered in countless mountains that beckon climbers with a spirit of exploration. The possibilities are endless, and it’s easy to stumble across a specific facet of the area not yet visited by man. Climbs range from short hikes to expeditions involving technical gear, often in places that still qualify as pristine wilderness.
The San Juans are home to seven wilderness areas (in excess of 800,000 acres), including the state’s largest, the Weminuche. The region is the last known location of a number of sensitive mosses and rare alpine fens. The range also boasts at least 6 major watersheds, many major reservoirs, a countless array of campsites and an impressive trail network, surpassed only by pristine land that as yet still shows no trace of man’s presence. The San Juans also boast the most unique form of access to the heart of the range in the form of an historic narrow gauge railroad train.
13 of Colorado’s popular fourteeners, hundreds of thirteeners, and many more impressive lower summits reside in this extensive, sprawling range. Most of these rugged sentinels offer some of Colorado’s most challenging routes, demanding a commitment of time, equipment and experience. Many other peaks are easily accessed and can be climbed in a day, thanks to historic mining roads that weave their way through the range, built over one hundred years ago. Whatever your taste and ability, there is something in the San Juans for everyone.
This page has been designed to make your navigation through SummitPost’s extensive mountain database a bit easier. From here you can access all SummitPost peaks found in the San Juan range, and it is in those pages, the real stars of SP, that you will find the specific information you need concerning the mountain that calls your name.
For more information on accessing the San Juans,or researching historical and geological perspectives, see Appendix A
For more information and a better understanding on the nature of the San Juans as a complete mountain range, be sure to visit Appendix B.
For information on the towns in the San Juans and additional links to lots of information, see Appendix C.
And now for an eye candy introduction that proves that the San Juans are Colorado's greatest and most diverse mountain range:
Mount Sneffels (center) and the Sneffels Range, from Ouray County Road #10, San Juan Mountains
Click on the image for a larger version.Three photo panorama by Aaron Johnson
Uncompahgre Wilderness, Cimarron Range
Panorama photo by SP member Jack B
See the BIG PICTURE HERE!
Precipice Peak, Cimarron Range, Uncompahgre Wilderness
Panorama photo by SP member Jack B
See the SPECTACULAR BIG VERSION HERE!
Yankee Boy and Governor Basins from Potosi Peak Route
Panorama photo by SP member Aaron Johnson
See the GLORIOUS ENLARGED VERSION HERE!
 
The Sultan, near Silverton, and Teakettle near Ouray
Photos by SP member Jack B
 
Massive granite peaks of the Grenadier Range, Weminuche Wilderness
Photos by SP member Jack B
 
Wetterhorn Peak and South Lookout Peak
Photos by SP member Jack B
 
Wheeler Geologic Area by SP member Aaron Johnson & Continental Divide, north of Creede by SP member Bob Sihler
 
The La Plata Range near Durango by SP member Bob Sihler & Ice Lake Basin, near Silverton by SP member Yorksman
 
Jagged Mountain by SP member Todd Caudle & El Diente by SP member km_donovan
View looking into the western San Juan from The Window |
Above panorama photo by SP member Colonelpyat AccessThe San Juan range is complicated, thanks to its violent volcanic genesis. Intense mining activity at the beginning of the 20th century resulted in a complex network of roads, railroads, trails and later, modern highways that all serve as access for today’s mountain climbers and explorers.
NORTHEAST ACCESS
This area is served by US Highway 50, due west from Poncha Springs to Gunnison. Access of the Cochetopa Hills, Cannibal Plateau, La Garita Range and Uncompahgre Sections, as well as the Lake City area can be accessed via State Highways 114 and 149. Some of the most remote and pristine areas of the San Juans are located in this region.
EAST ACCESS
This entrance of the San Juans is served by US Highway 285 and 160, as well as State Highway 112 in the San Luis Valley. US 160 crosses the range as it extends south into New Mexico via Wolf Creek Pass, providing access to southwest sections of the South San Juan as well. The town of South Fork is the junction of US160 and Colorado 149, providing east access to the heart of the San Juans via the town of Creede and a host of jeep roads.
SOUTHEAST ACCESS
US 285 and Colorado 17 provide primary access to the east side of the South San Juan region, widely regarded as the most wild wilderness region in the state.
SOUTH ACCESS
US 160, with towns Pagosa Springs, Bayfield and Durango provide access to the south side of the east-west running San Juan range, including the popular and expansive Weminuche Wilderness.
SOUTHWEST ACCESS
The city of Durango best serves as a launch point for the La Plata, Needle, Grenadier and Silverton sub-ranges. US 160 and 550 are the serving highways, with countless county roads to choose from. The popular Narrow Gauge Silverton Railroad provides unique access to the heart of the range via stops at Elk Park and Needleton Bridge. The railroad can be accessed in Durango or Silverton. Be sure to check the following link for details on the train and securing passage.
Durango-Silverton Train Schedule
WEST ACCESS
Colorado 145 from Cortez to Placerville provides ample access to the western San Juan, including the San Miguels and the three challenging 14ers located there, the Silverton and Telluride groups and southern approaches of the Sneffels Range.
NORTHWEST ACCESS
Highway 550 from Montrose cuts a southerly route through the western half of the San Juans to Durango and beyond. The town of Ridgway is also the junction of US 550 and Colorado 62, one of the state’s most impressive Scenic Byways. 10 miles south of Ridgway is scenic Ouray, often referred to as the “Switzerland of America.” These highways and towns provide access to an amazing array of jeep roads (see here) and trail networks. North, east and south aspects of the Sneffels range are available, along with the Ouray group, the Red Mountains, the Silverton group and western Cimarron ranges.
NORTH ACCESS
US 50 provides access to the three Cimarron drainages and the northern aspects of the Uncompahgre, primarily via developed county roads.
Be sure to access Appendices A & C (see links above in OVERVIEW section) to see more inportant information about accessing the San Juans with your 4WD vehicle, which is essential for expedient climbing in this region.San Juan Weather
Descending from a soggy camp at Silver Lake during the San Juan monsoon. |
The San Juans have a reputation for nasty weather. Why? It has to do with location and elevation.
LOCATION
Situated in southwest Colorado, the San Juans happen to be positioned strategically for receiving weather from all directions. Fronts from the north often loose their strength over the Flattops, Grand Mesa and the Elk Range before reaching the San Juans, but strong systems will certainly affect the San Juans as much as any other mountain range.
Hurricane weather brings snow to the San Juans, September 2004. |
Major winter storms often occur in succession and will load all aspects of the mountains with unbelieveable amounts of snow. Moisture laiden southern fronts make the San Juans well known for violent avalanche activity. Do not underestimate the power of a San Juan avalanche! Most of the San Juan is inaccessible during the winter.
Here is a fantastic video on youtube for your consideration: Ophir Valley Avalanches. These avalanches were triggered by a maintenance crew near the tiny town of Ophir. Be sure to check it out, and be glad you're seeing a San Juan Avalanche from the safety of your computer screen rather than trying to survive one.
The San Juans are far enough south to bear the brunt of tropical storm systems that rumble in during any time of the year. Prevailing low pressure cells from the southwest result in monsoonal activity as well as significant dumps of snow. Less prominent but always packing a punch, storms from the Gulf of Mexico routinely buffet the range with lots of moisture from the southeast, usually during the late summer monsoons.
The other major weather event happens in August. The monsoons usually arrive with a bang of thunder, bolts of lightning and incessant, unfathomable amounts of rain. Downpours, mudslides, swollen streams, rivers and waterfalls roaring from every drainage are not uncommon. These storms are often violent, accompanied by serious down drafts and electrical shows beyond compare. Doing battle with a monsoon storm on a San Juan peak is the stuff of real nightmares you should make every effort to avoid. The monsoon will have a profound effect on your outing if you are not prepared and have not planned for contingencies.
Later monsoonal activity may actually be the remnants of hurricanes. In the fall, hurricane season starts in the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. It is not unusual for the San Juans to receive the remnants of these storms, and be found under siege of endless downpours for days on end. If hurricane activity is forecast for the area, don’t even bother. Go elsewhere!
Unlike the northern ranges of Colorado, the San Juans face incoming weather from just about any direction any time of the year. Your best chance at understanding the San Juan weather patterns well enough to dodge major storm events is to climb in them always prepared. After years of experience, you might have a pretty good record at dodging the storms. It’s always a good idea to check the local weather for the particular area you’ll be in before proceeding. Often one part of the San Juans will be experiencing weather while another is not. You can always count on the weather being different in the San Juans when compared to any other part of the state.
ELEVATION: THE STORM FACTORY
The western San Juans are a collection of points standing atop a great volcanic dome. The average elevation in the Needles Range, nicknamed by locals as the Storm Factory, is well over 12,000 feet. At this altitude, warm air rises, cools quickly and condenses, then falls back to the earth as rain, usually on a daily basis. Add to this the continual daily deluge from monsoon moisture arriving from the Gulf, and you have a recipe for violent weather. Even on calm days with cloudless mornings, moisture can be felt in the air, lingering from the previous night’s storm. Above the Storm Factory by noon, massive thunderheads will develop, and by 1:00, it’s raining in loud, dramatic style.
This is normal San Juan behavior, although is it sure to beleaguer the uninitiated visitor. During the monsoon, always go into the area prepared for the worst weather you can imagine. Other parts of the San Juan may escape the daily dump, but you can almost count on it in the Needles, Grenadier and Oso ranges during the month of August. If you don’t believe this text, simply inquire with those that have gone before you. You’ll hear account after account of epic battles with the weather in the Storm Factory.
Be sure to check out the album that compliments this section: San Juan WeatherClimbing Conditions
Dangerous shifting talus on Potosi Peak |
The San Juan is known for its notorious loose rock, commonly known as talus. On many San Juan peaks, this terrain is unavoidable, and on certain slopes, these conditions can be unstable or even deadly. Hiking on talus and scree is just a way of life in these mountains, so it is helpful to gain experience in other talus areas that tend to be more stable before attempting a San Juan summit.
Climbing on sound rock, Jagged Mountain, in the Needles. Photo by SP member mitzflp. |
By contrast, most of the Needles and Grenadiers are comprised of granite. While loose rock is certainly present on these rugged peaks, it is to a lesser degree than in the rest of the range. Some of Colorado's most legendary and challenging technical climbs can be found in these mountains, and it's a refreshing change of pace. The price for this climbing nirvana is the admission: Access to these peaks is a long and involved undertaking.
Be sure to check out the album compiled for this project, Climbing Conditions of the San Juan Range for a visual representation of conditions encountered on many San Juan Peaks, including those regarded as technical, challenging and dangerous.
The San Juan range does boast an impressive network of hiking and backpacking trails, so in seeing this magnificent range, traversing unstable or exposed areas is certainly not required. With a bit of research, you'll be able to find the right route for you and your group's activity.Wilderness AreasMount Sneffels Wilderness
Designated 1980; 16, 565 acres; 15 miles of trails
La Garita Wilderness
Designated 1964, expanded 1980 & 1993; 128,858 acres; 175 miles of trails
Lizard Head Wilderness
Designated 1980; 41,193 acres; 37 miles of trails
South San Juan Wilderness
Designated 1980, expanded 1993; 158,790 acres; 180 miles of trails
Uncompahgre Wilderness
Designated 1980, expanded 1993; 102,721 acres; 110 miles of trails
Weminuche Wilderness
Designated 1975, expanded 1980 & 1993; 492,418 acres; 475 miles of trails including 80 miles on the Continental Divide Trail
Powderhorn Wilderness
Designated 1993; 61,510 acres; 45 miles of trails
COLORADO WILDERNESS AREAS MAP National Forest Management AgenciesGunnison & Uncompahgre National Forest
Manages the north end of the San Juan mountains
Rio Grande National Forest
Manages the east end of the San Juan mountains
San Juan National Forest
Manages the south end of the San Juan Mountains
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