Geographical classification: Eastern Alps > Loferer and Leoganger Steinberge

The Loferer and Leoganger Steinberge or just Steinberge ("Stony Mountains") are, with 350 sqkm, one of the smaller mountain groups in the Northern Limestone Alps. They are located in Austria, in the Bundesland Salzburg or, as the locals might put it, in the region Pinzgau. The precise geographical boundaries are:

1) The Haselbach and the Strubache separating the Steinberge from the Chiemgau Alps to the north.
2) The Saalach beyond which rise the Berchtesgaden Alps to the east.
3) The Leoganger Ache and the Griessenbach forming the southern boundary to the Kitzbühl Alps.
4) The Grosse Ache, the Pillerseeache, the Schwarzenbach and the Rotachenbach with the Kaisergebirge to the west.

Unlike the neighbouring Kaisergebirge, the Steinberge do not form a range-like structure but are comprised of two sister massifs that also constitute the groups two subgroups. These are the northern Loferer and the southern Leoganger Steinberg separated from each other by the Ramersattel. Both subgroups show a striking similarity as they are formed by a north to southeast trending ridge of about 10 km length which falls steeply to the Pillersee Valley to the west. This ridge sends out subsidary ridges to the east. Between these ridges karst fields, that form hanging valleys high above the Saalach Valley, are to be found.

The group´s highest peak is Birnhorn (2634 meters) in the Leoganger Steinberg. It´s famous South Face is, with 1500 vertical meters from base to summit, the fith highest mountain face in the entire Alps and a spectacular sight from the valley of the Leoganger Ache. Second is Grosses Ochsenhorn, with 2513 meters the highest mountain of the Loferer part. The prominence of the summits of the Steinberge is comperatively great, as the surounding valley floors do generally not exceed 800 meters in elevation, making climbs from the valleys long and steep.

Geology

The geological base of the Steinberge starts at around 600 meters and is made up by an impermeable type of schist, here "Werfener Schiefer". This provides the line of springs and is typical for many groups of the Northern Limestone Alps. The following layering is complicated but mainly consists of dolomite, which is then followed (from about 2000 meters onwards) by a layer of "Dachstein" limestone, which is up to 500 meter thick. After the glaciation of the last ice age had turned the high valleys of the Steinberge into cwms or basins ("Kare" in German), the following erosion of the limestone has transformed these into karstic landscapes (the Grosse Wehrgrube under the eastern slopes of the Reifhörner is one example in the Loferer Steinberg). As most water is drained subterraneously (which is a big disadvantage if you want to camp), vegetation on these karst fields is sparse and big dolines and other forms of limestone erosion can be seen frequently. The water eventually emerges at the line of springs and giant sources are another trademark of limestone mountains. This can be seen to perfection in the Leoganger Steinberg where the Birnbach springs up. Its giant source, known as the "Birnbachloch" lies directly under the South Face of Birnhorn and is protected as a natural monument. In addition to this, the existance of caves is yet another feature of above descibed subterranean drainage and the Lamprechtshöhle is something not to be missed if you´ve ever been interested in caves. Lying on the eastern side of the Leoganger Steinberg near the village of Weissbach, it is, with a total height of 1500 meters, the highest (known) cave in the world (!). Its actual size has still not been sufficiently explored, but scientist have so far mapped 45 km of tunnels and dykes. Parts of the Lamprechtshöhle are open to the public.

History of Exploration

The usual early local hunters aside climbing acivities in the Steinberge begann in the thirties of the 19th century. The first documented climb was the ascent of Birnhorn by Thurwieser and Stachelsberger on 2.9.1831. By the end of the century all of the big peaks had been climbed (e.g. Grosses Hinterhorn in 1833 also by Thurwieser or Grosses Ochsenhorn in 1897 by Cranz). In the following years until the beginning of WW II many new routes, especially in the Loferer Steinberg, were opened by climbers such as Willy Merkl (who died in 1934 on Nanga Parbat). While these routes often exceeded UIAA V, the years of war put an end to this development. In the late fifties the Steiberge again gained popularity. The seventies were especially productive and quite a lot of routes in the range between UIAA VI- to VII- have been established.

Activities

As the Steinberge rise steeply from the surrounding valleys and no ski resorts and consequently no cablecars have yet been built, the mountains have kept some of their wild and remote character. The climbs are long and steep, often exceeding 1500 vertical meters, really famous peaks are absent and only two huts serve the area. All this combines to keep off the more casual tourist and most people you might meet actually know what they are up to. This does not mean that you´ll necessarily have your chosen mountain to yourself but the crowds that you have to bear in some other parts of the Alps are generally unheard of. This section is meant to provide an overview of the possible activities in the Steinberge.

Hiking/Scrambling:

Many of the more prominent summits of the Steinberge have an UIAA rating of at least I on their normal route and even some of the non-rated peaks are not mere walk-ups. While this limits the choice of the more casual hiker to some of the more insignificant peaks, the huts which are rewardingly located can be reached by anyone willing to ascent 1000 meters in a day. People looking for a scramble up to UIAA II will find many possibilities up attractive mountains such as Birnhorn, Grosses Ochsenhorn, Grosses Reifhorn, Breithorn or Kuchlhorn.

Mountaineering/Climbing:

A lot of routes between UIAA III- and VI+ are found in the area so there should be something for everyone. Some climbs are quite long, like the original route through the Birnhorn South Face (1400 meters, IV+) or the Southeast Pillar of Mittleres Ochsenhorn (850 meters, VI) and might appeal to the experienced mountaineer. Others are rather for sport climbers and are much shorter though very difficult. Most routes of the latter type are found in the Mitterhornkamm in the Leoganger Steinberg (e.g. Fahnenköpfle East Face: 250 meters, VII+).

Via Ferrata:

To my knowledge there are only two Via Ferratas, both in the Loferer Steinberg. The "Nackter Hund Klettersteig" (UIAA III) leads up Nackter Hund and the summit of Grosses Hinterhorn, the other (nameless) one also up Grosses Hinterhorn by way of Mitterhorn (UIAA II).

Skiing:

Decent ski touring routes are few and mostly supposed to be very difficult. The most popular one leads up and down the Skihörndl and is said to be quite crowded if conditions are good.

Mountains of the Loferer Steinberg

This is a list of all peaks in the Loferer Steinberg. While, at least on first glance, there seem to be a lot of mountains for such a small area, you have to keep in mind that every bump in the Steinberge is named and seen as a separate entity. Many of the peaks don´t meet the UIAA criteria for independant peaks in terms of prominence, but I´m following the standart guidebook here and this follows the local perspective. All mountains that appear in bold letters are represented in one of the photos shown in this section. The mountains are listed as they lie on the main ridge from northwest to southeast until a subsidary ridge branches off (the peaks on these ridges are than listed as to their proximity to the main ridgeline).

Wurzköpfe (1768 m)
Elferhörndl (1990 m)
Baumandl (1975 m)
Tiroler Kopf (2005 m)
Zwölferhorn (2104 m)
Brunnkopf (1799 m)
Ulrichshörndl (2050 m)
Seehorn (2152 m)
Truhe (2101 m)
Schaflegg (2175 m)
Rothörndl (2394 m)
Grosses Rothorn (2409 m)
Östliches Rothorn (2402 m)
Weissleithörndl (2057 m)
Mitterhorn (2483 m)
Mitterhornpfeiler (2080 m)
Grosses Hinterhorn (2504 m)

Kleines Hinterhorn (2372 m)
Kirchl (1991 m)
Gute Wand (2080 m)
Nackter Hund (2372 m)

Scheibenkopf (2148 m)
Struber Horn (2024 m)
Wirtshörndl (1875 m)
Märzenmandln (1915 m)
Breithorn (2413 m)

Bettstatt (2183 m)
Grosses Eibelhorn (2056 m)
Kleines Eibelhorn (1993 m)
Anderlkopf (1475 m)
Rauhenberg (1300 m)
Westliches Geisslhorn (2291 m)
Östliches Geisslhorn (2297 m)
Hinteres Geisslhorn (2290 m)
Bischof (2285 m)
Hafenlochpfeiler (2235 m)
Westliches Reifhorn (2448 m)
Grosses Reifhorn (2487 m)

Kreuzreifhorn (2460 m)

Kleines Reifhorn (2350 m)
Östliches Reifhorn (2408 m)
Skihörndl (2286 m)
Traunspitzl (2300 m)
Dreispitz (1991 m)
Grosses Ochsenhorn (2513 m)

Mittleres Ochsenhorn (2365 m)
Kleines Ochsenhorn (2299 m)
Sattelhorn (2054 m)
Lärchhörndel (1857 m)
Thurnegg (1370 m)
Vorderhorn (2110 m)
Hochsäul (1756 m)

Mountains of the Leoganger Steinberg

As in the Loferer Steinberg, every bump in the Leoganger Steinberg is named and seen as a separate entity. Many of the peaks don´t meet the UIAA criteria for independant peaks in terms of prominence, but I´m following the standart guidebook here and this follows the local perspective. All mountains that appear in bold letters are represented in one of the photos shown in this section. The mountains are listed as they lie on the main ridge from southeast to northwest until a subsidary ridge branches off (the peaks on these ridges are than listed as to their proximity to the main ridgeline).

Brandhorn (2099 m)
Brandlkogel (1922 m)
Kaserwand (1945 m)
Mitterhorn (2206 m)

Östliche Mitterspitze (2170 m)

Westliche Mitterspitze (2171 m)
Fahnenköpfl (2142 m)

Hochzint (2243 m)

Birnhorn (2634 m)

Kuchlhorn (2500 m)

Metzhörndl (2130 m)
Dürrkarhorn (2287 m)

Hinteres Schosshorn (2253 m)
Mittleres Schosshorn (2155 m)
Vorderes Schosshorn (2210 m)
Schaflzacken (1732 m)
Wildzacken (2020 m)
Daubenkopf (2355 m)
Jauzkopf (2492 m)

Bärenköpfl (1950 m)
Östliches Schaleithorn (2450 m)
Westliches Schaleithorn (2441 m)
Rothörnl (2408 m)
Kugelkopf (2459 m)
Hundshörnl (2481 m)
Grosses Zinthorn (2484 m)
Mittleres Zinthorn (2469 m)
Kleines Zinthorn (2456 m)
Signalkopf (2462 m)
Passauer Kopf (2465 m)
Schafspitze (2455 m)

Kleines Rothorn (2395 m)
Grosses Rothorn (2442 m)
Lahnerhorn (2025 m)
1.Sauhorn (2350 m)
2.Sauhorn (2342 m)
3.Sauhorn (2305 m)
4.Sauhorn (2253 m)
5.Sauhorn (2205 m)
Griessener Hochbrett (2467 m)
Grosses Marchandhorn (2370 m)
Kleines Marchandhorn (2185 m)
Barbarahorn (2050 m)

Camping, Huts and Accomodation

There are no restrictions as far as camping is concerned, but due to the karstic nature of both the Loferer and the Leoganger Steinberg finding water is difficult. Before deciding on a campsite check the maps if water is available or carry everything you might need for the night with you. That said, there are many beautiful spots to pitch a tent and as campers are a rarity you can count of having your chosen spot to yourself.

If you rather want to stay in a hut, there is not much to choose from:

The Von-Schmidt-Zabrirow Hütte is the only mountain hut serving the Loferer Steinberg. Owned by the German Alpine Club (DAV), it is maintained from the end of June to the beginning of October. Outside this period you may use its winter room for which you need a key. Contact the German Alpine Club Sektion Passau for how to get it (Tel: 00498512361). Originally built in 1899 the hut is beautifully situated at 1966 meters on the karst field of the Grosse Wehrgrube and most tours in the Loferer Steinberg can conveniantly be done from there. Check out the hut´s excellent website for a mass of information about the hut itself and tours in the Loferer Steinberg in general. See the Northwest Flank Route up Grosses Ochsenhorn for a detailed description of how to reach Von-Schmidt-Zabrirow Hütte from Lofer.

The Leoganger Steinberg boasts just one hut, too. This is the Passauer Hütte, also owned and maintained by the DAV Sektion Passau. Built in 1892, destroyed by fire in 1946 and rebuilt in 1954, it is open from mid June to the beginning of October. It has an open winter room which can accomodate six people. Situated on the Hochgrub karst field directly under the East Face of Birnhorn it is a good place to start tours on Birnhorn and other mountains in the eastern and central Leoganger Steinberg. For telephone numbers and other basic information take a look at the hut´s fact sheet. The Hofersteig route up Birnhorn gives directions of how to reach it from the trailhead at the Gunzenreit farm near Leogang.

In addition to the Passauer Hütte the privately owned Lettlkaser hut (1441 meters) serves basic fares and drinks on summer weekends. This hut might serve as a base for the peaks of the easternmost extremity of the Leoganger Steinberg.

For staying in the valley check the websites of the following towns and villages: Lofer (for the eastern section of the Loferer Steinberg), Saalfelden and Leogang (for the southern and eastern Leoganger Steinberg) and St. Ulrich (for the western sections of both the Loferer and Leoganger Steinberg).

Red Tape

While there is no red tape or any restrictions in the Loferer Steinberg, there is something to pay attention to in the Leoganger part:

The Austrian military operates a large demarcated training area to the northeast of the town of Hochfilzen in the foreland of the Leoganger Steinberg. This severly hinders approaches to the western section of the massif as access is strictly forbidden and might even be a suicidal affair. One exception is the trail R99 which leads partially through the training area, but even here everybody needs to observe possible closure times.

For the remaining part of the Leoganger Steinberg no special rules apply.

Weather and Mountain Conditions

The winter mountaineering and ski touring season usually last from December to April. Exact forecasts for snow and avalanche conditions are hard to come by as there are no ski resorts and/or meterological stations anywhere in the Steinberge. You have to make do with the more general data for the Pinzgau delivered by the Salzburger Lawinenwarndienst.
The summer season starts around June and as the Steinberge are known for their stable autumn weather the usual time window for the Northern Limestone Alps extends here into November.
To inform yourself about the current weather in the valleys check out the weather forecasts for Lofer or Saalfelden.
For conditions higher up, there is a meterological station at the Loferer Alm, which though it is actually located in the Chiemgau Alps should give you an idea about what to expect at around 1600 meters.

Getting There

Those coming from overseas are best off to fly either to Munich or Salzburg. For further public transport to any of the towns or villages surrounding the Steinberge a one minute search on either the website of the Deutsche Bahn (German Railways) or the ÖBB (Austrian Railways) will produce a comprehensive personal timetable.

Private transport is preferable though and map24.de will give you the exact route from your doorstep anywhere in Europe to the trailheads. If not being in a hurry and coming from the direction of Munich it is worth to leave the motorway A8 at the exit Bernau am Chiemsee and drive along the Deutsche Alpenstrasse, Germanys most scenic road, which eventually leads to the towns in the Saalach Valley.

Books and Maps

Unfortunately no English titles are available (at least not to my knowledge).
The definitive guidebook with a wealth of information is the sadly out of print Alpine Club guidebook Loferer und Leoganger Steinberge.

The ski touring guidebook Berchtesgadener und Chiemgauer Alpen also includes the Steinberge.

The excellent Alpine Club map Loferer und Leoganger Steinberge (1:25000) covers the whole area in one sheet.

Images



[ View Gallery - 33 More Images ]