The Central Wasatch is the center of hiking and mountaineering in the Wasatch Mountains. These mountains are the rugged alpine peaks located directly above Salt Lake City. They have a commanding presence over much of the valley. The Wasatch Mountains to the east and the Great Basin and Salt Lake to the west make this is a great place for the people who live there. Whether you like snow, alpine, or rock climbing, it's all here within a short drive of the city. The area is divided by several canyons that run east to west along the Wasatch Front. The routes up these mountains vary from easy trail hiking to 3rd and 4th class scrambling with a little exposure. The Central Wasatch is bounded on the west by Salt Lake City and many other cities along the Wasatch Front, on the north by Parleys Canyon, on the east by the mountains along the Park City Ridge, and on the south by American Fork Canyon.

The canyons are what make these mountains so special. Parleys and Millcreek canyon are lush green canyons full of vegetation. Big Cottonwood Canyon has quartzite cliffs and buttresses. Little Cottonwood Canyon is made out of granite slabs and walls. American Fork Canyon has overhanging limestone crags. These canyons provide access to the Central Wasatch mountains and are the most popular areas around Salt Lake City. Within these main canyons are several other smaller canyons that descend from the highest mountains and passes. The Wasash Front's water supply is provided by the snow and water of rivers and streams. With so many people you would think that the mountains would be crowded with hikers every weekend. This is true in some areas, but you'll notice that the majority of people don't hike very far. When you have a chance to get away from the popular peaks you will probably be alone. This is amazing, if you consider how many people live down below.

These mountains are characterized in the topography of the Middle Rocky Mountains province. They were carved by streams, geologic faulting, volcanic activity, and glaciation. The core of the range is made of very old Precambrian rocks, some over 2.6 billion years old, that have been altered by multiple cycles of mountain building and burial. Uplift of the modern Wasatch Range only began within the past 12 to 17 million years. From 138 to 66 million years ago, compressional forces in the earth�s crust began to form these mountains by stacking or thrusting up large sheets of rock. About 38 to 24 million years ago large bodies of magma intruded parts of the mountains. These granitic intrusions, eroded thrust sheets, and the older sedimentary rocks form the uplifted Wasatch Range as it is seen today.

The Central Wasatch is located in Wasatch-Cache National Forest. The name Wasatch is a Ute Indian word meaning a low place in high mountains, and the name Cache is a French word meaning to hide. It was originally a term that referred to fur trappers, the first europeans to visit the land. The forest boundaries include over 2 million acres of land. The Wasatch-Cache not only includes the Central Wasatch Mountains but three major geographic areas: the northern and western slopes of the Uinta Mountains; the Wasatch Front north of Lone Peak including the Monte Cristo Range, and Bear River Range; and the Stansbury Range, in the Great Basin.

Lone Peak seen from Box Elder Peak

The Wasatch Range

The Wasatch Range is part of the Rocky Mountains. The Wasatch Range rises to elevations of more than 11,000 feet and stretches for about 160 miles from the Southeast Idaho border to Central Utah. It starts with the Bear River Range near the city of Logan, then the Wellsville Mountains near the city of Mendon and Sardine Canyon, the Northern Wasatch above the cities of Ogden and Bountiful, the Central Wasatch above Salt Lake Valley, and Southern Wasatch, which has the highest mountains, from Provo to Nephi. The Wasatch Range is an imposing and important geographic feature in the western United States. From a geologic perspective, the mountains are a complex mix of igneous, sedimentary, and metamorphic rocks.

From a demographic perspective, these mountains, and their western base, is a corridor known as the Wasatch Front. Over 80 percent of Utah's population lives within 15 miles of the Wasatch range. Salt Lake City lies between the Wasatch Range and the Great Salt Lake. Not only those that live in the areas around Salt Lake City but Logan, Ogden, and Provo have the Wasatch Mountains as a spectacular backdrop each morning. Hiking, rock climbing, skiing, camping, mountain biking, and fishing are a few things that the Wasatch Mountains have to offer. This mountain playground is an ideal place for all kinds of outdoor enthusiasts.

The purpose of this page is to provide an overview of all of the areas in the Central Wasatch. I have focused more attention on the area south of Parleys Canyon and north of Big Cottonwood Canyon. The mountains above the Cottonwood Canyons are already covered in detail on Summitpost. For the Park City, Cottonwood, and Alpine Ridge sections I have provided a link to their pages. Thanks to Joseph Bullough for transferring this page to me and allowing me to make it.

Pfeifferhorn seen from the Obelisk

Getting There

The mountains above Salt Lake City are situated in one area so they are easy to get to for most people. Several canyons run east to west along the Wasatch and provide access to all of the peaks. You can get to almost all of these mountains by exiting off of Interstate 15 and heading east toward the mountains. This is the major highway that goes north to south all the way through Utah.

Parleys Canyon

From the West: Travel on I-15 to Salt Lake City and take the exit for I-80 East heading towards Cheyenne.

From the East: Travel from I-80 West towards Salt Lake City. If coming from Kamas take Highway 40 and exit onto I-80 West. If coming from Park City exit at Kimball Junction/Park City onto I-80 West.

This road goes all the way through Parleys Canyon and gives access to trailheads on the north side of Millcreek Ridge.

Millcreek Canyon

From I-15 take exit I-215 East. From I-215 on the east side of Salt Lake valley, take either the 3300 or 3900 South exit, and proceed east to Wasatch Boulevard. Follow Wasatch Boulevard and drive to 3800 South. Look for signs to Mill Creek Canyon and drive into the canyon towards the fee station.

This canyon gives access to trailheads on the south side of Millcreek Ridge and the north side of Olympus/Raymond Ridge.

Big Cottonwood Canyon

Big Cottonwood Canyon is located on Wasatch Boulevard at 7200 South (Fort Union Boulevard), about 12 miles southeast of downtown Salt Lake City. The best way to get there is by driving on the I-215 Belt Loop and following the signs for the Cottonwood Canyons Ski resorts.

Take the 6200 S exit- EXIT 6- toward SKI AREAS/Solitude / Brighton/Snowbird / Alta for 0.2 miles. Merge onto UT-190 E toward SKI AREAS: Solitude/Brighton / Snowbird/Alta and drive for 1.8 miles to the mouth of Big Cottonwood Canyon.

There is a Park'N Ride at the mouth of the canyon on the left side. This is a popular place for people to meet and carpool up the canyon. During winter ski buses run from the city up to the Ski Resorts.

This canyon gives access to trailheads on the south side of Olympus/Raymond Ridge and the north side of Cottonwood Ridge.

Little Cottonwood Canyon

Little Cottonwood Canyon is located at the intersection of Highway 210 and South Little Cottonwood Canyon Road. The best way to get to Little Cottonwood Canyon is to get on the I-215 Belt Loop and follow the signs for the Cottonwood Canyons Ski resorts.

Take the 6200 S exit- EXIT 6- toward SKI AREAS/Solitude / Brighton/Snowbird / Alta for 0.2 miles. Merge onto UT-190 E toward SKI AREAS: Solitude/Brighton / Snowbird/Alta and drive for 1.8 miles to the mouth of Big Cottonwood Canyon, which is at Fort Union Blvd & Wasatch Blvd. Continue straight through the stoplight and follow the road another 4 miles to the mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon.

At the mouth of the canyon is a Park'N Ride similar to the one in Big Cottonwood Canyon. During winter ski buses go from the city up to the Ski Resorts.

This canyon gives access to the trailheads on the south side of Cottonwood Ridge and the north side of Alpine Ridge.

American Fork Canyon

From I-15 take exit 284 and head East towards the city of Alpine on SR 92 for 6 miles. Continue East on through the intersection with route 74 running North and South for another 1.8 miles to the mouth of canyon. Continue straight for another 0.5 miles to the fee station.

This canyon gives access to the trailheads on the south side of Alpine Ridge.

Check each mountain page for exact trailhead locations.

Mount Olympus Sunset

Wilderness Areas

The Mount Olympus Wilderness

The Mount Olympus Wilderness was established by Congress in 1984 and consist of approximately 15,800 acres. Mount Olympus Wilderness consists of narrow canyons, steep cliffs, and rugged terrain. The highest mountains include Mount Raymond and Mount Olympus. Gobblers Knob is just outside the Wilderness boundary to the east. Elevations range from approximately 5,000 feet to 10,241 feet. The highest mountains are characterized by large, alpine cirque basins and bare rocky ridges. Snow may linger into mid-summer in these places. There are various firs and aspens that grow in stands, mainly on north-facing slopes. The lower elevations are covered in dense mountain brush mixed with sagebrush and grass.

Big Cottonwood Canyon, and State Road 190, are located along its southern boundary, and the canyon separates this wilderness from Twin Peaks Wilderness to the south. Millcreek Canyon and its county road form the northern boundary. From both of these canyons, you can enter the wilderness from several trailheads. Most of the trails are well maintained and are easy to follow, but some are more strenuous than others. Crowds from the Salt Lake City area flood into here, especially on weekends. Mount Olympus Wilderness area has about 12 system trails totaling approximately 37 miles. The Big Cottonwood side of the wilderness is part of the Salt Lake City watershed and no dogs are allowed. Dogs are allowed in Millcreek Canyon.

The Twin Peaks Wilderness

The Twin Peaks Wilderness was established by Congress in 1984 and consist of approximately 11,400 acres. It is bounded on the south by Little Cottonwood Canyon, on the north by Big Cottonwood Canyon, on the west by Salt Lake Valley, and on the east by Mineral Fork in Big Cottonwood Canyon. The Twin Peaks Wilderness forms a part of the dramatic backdrop that is seen on the east side of the Salt Lake Valley. This ridge was carved by glaciation and more recently erosion. The canyons consists of steep terrain and quartzite cliffs. The highest mountains include the Triple Traverse Peaks: Broads Fork Twin Peaks, Sunrise, and Dromedary. Elevations range from just under 5,000 feet to 11,330 feet. Much of the higher terrain is alpine and is characterized by large cirque basins.

At lower elevations, dense mountain brush mixed with sagebrush and grass dominates the vegetation. On north-facing slopes are stands of firs and aspens. Large differences in temperature can occur between summer highs and lows. Snow remains in some parts of the wilderness until midsummer. Both Cottonwood Canyons have a road that goes toward the ski areas at the end and are highly scenic, and you'll find trailheads along both roads. Hiking trails vary from easy to difficult. Both Big and Little Cottonwood Canyon are part of the Salt Lake City watershed and no dogs are allowed.

The Lone Peak Wilderness

The Lone Peak Wilderness was established by Congress as part of the Endangered American Wilderness Act. In 1978, it was designated as Utah's first Wilderness Area and is the largest of the trio of wilderness areas above Salt Lake City. It consist of approximately of 30,000 acres. The Lone Peak Wilderness contains very rugged terrain and alpine peaks. It is located on both the Wasatch-Cache and Uinta National Forests. The highest peaks include the Pfeifferhorn and Lone Peak where snow often can remain until midsummer. Much of the higher elevations were carved by glaciers, with large open cirque basins and alpine lakes.

The area is geologically complex. The mountains are made of sedimentary, metamorphic, and igneous rock formations that form granite cliffs and buttresses, as well as colorful bands stretching for great distances across mountainsides. At higher elevations are douglas fir, subalpine fir, and aspens that grow in isolated patches on north-facing slopes. At the lower elevations are dense mountain brush and grass. Little Cottonwood Canyon, and State Highway 210, form the northern boundary and provide access to many trailheads on the north side of Alpine Ridge. It separates Lone Peak Wilderness from Twin Peaks Wilderness just to the north. In American Fork Canyon, State Highway 92, and a short stretch of State Highway Route 144, form the southern-southeastern boundary of the wilderness.

Millcreek Ridge seen from the summit of Granduer Peak in winter

Millcreek Ridge

This is the gentle ridge of the Central Wasatch. It is the main ridgeline that divides Parleys Canyon and Millcreek Canyon. You won't find any jagged peaks here but you will find great ridge running and off trail hiking. Aside from the trails, there is usually no one else on the entire ridgeline. The ridge goes west to east from Grandeur Peak to Murdock Peak. Millcreek Canyon is usually full of people on weekends. This is due to easy access and a well maintained trail system. This is also a popular area for skiing and snowshoeing during winter. Access in winter requires walking a couple extra miles on the east end because they close the gate at Terraces Trailhead.

Parleys Canyon to the north is the large canyon where Interstate 80 runs west to east from Salt Lake City to Park City. The canyon was named after Parley Parker Pratt who made an initial exploration of the entire canyon in June 1848. The southern part of the Northern Wasatch is located north of Parleys Canyon. This area is made up of lower elevation mountains and foothills. When the first settlers came into the Salt Lake Valley in the 1840s they headed up into Millcreek Canyon to cut trees; this is where the name "mill" came from. It was the most heavily wooded canyon of all of the canyons above Salt Lake City.

Millcreek Ridge is not sought after like the other ridge traverses in the Wasatch. This could be because the mountains are rounded and less interesting to some climbers. Although it is not technically difficult it would take a long day to hike the entire ridgeline so it is considered a challenge. Most people just climb one mountain or only parts of the ridge at a time. It starts with Grandeur Peak by climbing up either the West Slopes or the Church Fork trail. Then the route follows the ridge over to Church Fork Peak. Mount Aire is the next major mountain on the ridge. From Mount Aire the route drops back down into Lambs Canyon saddle. This part involves some scrambling on the ridgeline. From Lambs Canyon Pass you can follow a trail to Millvue Peak. Murdock Peak is the last summit and is located on the Park City Ridge. There is some bushwhacking involved on the ridge but routefinding is easy. Hopefully, a car shuttle is waiting for you at the end of Millcreek Canyon.

Here is more route information on the Millcreek Ridge Traverse

Grandeur Peak

Grandeur Peak - (8,299 feet)

Grandeur Peak is probably the most climbed peak on Millcreek Ridge along with Mount Aire to the east. It is on the western end of the ridge and is located northeast of Mount Olympus. The trail from Church Fork trailhead is the most used trail to the summit. The trail is well maintained and is also a good winter route. The west slopes route is much steeper and has more elevation gain so it is climbed less. The Dragon's Tail route is an alternative to the West Slopes route and follows a series of limestone cliffbands up the mountain. The route from Pharoahs Glen was once a hidden oasis in the mountains but private property issues have kept hikers from this area. With careful routefinding, all of the private property can be avoided. The route starts from Parleys Canyon.

Church Fork Peak View

Church Fork Peak - (8,306 feet)

Church Fork Peak is located in between Grandeur Peak and Mount Aire. It can be climbed from the Church Fork trailhead by hiking up the same trail as Grandeur Peak. The route takes off from the seventh swithback near the ridge. This is where there is a long curve in the trail heading west toward Grandeur Peak. Walk off-trail toward the meadow on the east face of Church Fork Peak. From the meadow the route goes northeast through trees and bushes to the summit of Church Fork Peak. Another route goes up Burch Hollow. It follows the pipeline trail at the beginning. The turn-off to Burch Hollow is easy to miss but there is a sign on the trail. The trail ascends swithbacks up the Burch Hollow drainage. You will eventually reach the saddle at about 8,120 feet. Church Fork Peak will be directly west and the ridge can be followed to the top.

Mount Aire

Mount Aire - (8,621 feet)

Mount Aire is a popular mountain to climb in the area. It is considered one of those mountains that has the best view for the least amount of effort. It also makes a good mountain to climb when there is still snow on the ground. The most common way to climb Mount Aire is from the Elbow Fork trailhead. It gains a little under 2,000 feet in 1.75 miles. The trail is in good condition but may be muddy in spring. Mount Aire can also be climbed from Burch Fork. It branches off trom the 8,120 foot saddle in between Church Fork Peak and Mount Aire. It heads east making a long curve along the ridgeline and then back up north to a trail junction with Elbow Fork below the south face of Mount Aire. There are several swithbacks up to the summit.

Millvue Peak - (8,926 feet)

Millvue Peak is located southeast of Lambs Canyon Pass on the Millcreek Ridge. It can be climbed from the Elbow Fork trailhead that goes to Mount Aire. Turn right at the first junction on the trail that goes east. There is a sign marking the turnoff. This area is very green with vegetation during spring. The trail eventually meets up with Lambs Canyon Pass. A smaller climbers trail heads toward Millvue Peak. The other alternative trail starts from the Lambs Canyon trail in Parleys Canyon. The trailhead is reached by driving up a narrow paved road for 1.6 miles to a small parking area on the left. Hiking this in winter will add a couple extra miles. It is a 1.75 hike to Lambs Canyon Pass from the trailhead. From the pass follow the same climbers trail up the west ridge of Millvue Peak.

Wildcat Ridge seen from Mount Olympus

Olympus/Raymond Ridge

This is the ridge that divides Millcreek Canyon and Big Cottonwood Canyon. It doesn't have an official name so I decided to call it the Olympus/Raymond Ridge after the two most well known mountains on the ridge. It starts with Mount Olympus and goes east towards the Park City Ridge. There are several smaller ridges that branch off from the main ridge. Hiking in this type of terrain is very enjoyable for people who like to explore. There are routes leading to mountains from both sides of the canyons but there are more trails on the eastern half of the ridge. The western half of the ridge is known as Wildcat Ridge.

Wildcat Ridge is the rugged ridgeline located between Mount Olympus and Mount Raymond. It is one of the wildest scrambling traverses in the Central Wasatch. The route starts by climbing up Mount Olympus, which is the easiest part. Although, you have gained a significant amount of elevation, there are still many other peaks on the ridge that you must climb up and over. There are not many places to bail from the ridge so you should make sure that you have enough strength and energy to continue. The traverse is fun and involves scrambling on narrow quartzite cliffbands. The ridge is located at timberline so you will have to hike through trees and bushes along the way. On a warm day you will have to watch out for rattlesnakes. It will take most people a very long day to do this traverse.

Here is more route information on the Wildcat Ridge Traverse

Mount Olympus View

Mount Olympus - (9,026 feet)

Mount Olympus is the most famous mountain north of the Cottonwood Canyons in the Central Wasatch. There are many mountain ranges with a mountain named Olympus and the Wasatch is no exception. In Greek mythology, Olympus was the home of the gods such as Athena, Zeus, Hera, and Aphrodite. There are no immortals here but on summer weekends the trail is packed with hikers while other routes on the mountain are visited much less. The mountain is very prominent despite barely making it over the 9,000 foot mark. The Mount Olympus trail gains over 4,000 feet in 3 miles and is a good workout. There is a little scrambling for the last 400 feet. There are many rock climbing routes that go up the tilted quartzite slabs on the mountain. They include: The West Slabs, Guerts Ridge, Kamps Ridge, and the Great Chimney. Several other scrambling routes exist including a steep 3-4 class route up the North Face. There are even a few couloir climbs. The Neffs Canyon trail is the only maintained trail on the north side of Mount Olympus. With so many routes, the mountain's popularity is well deserved.

Thayne Peak - (8,656 feet)

Thayne Peak is located below Mount Olympus to the northeast. It is usually climbed from the Desolation trailhead in Millcreek Canyon. The Thayne Canyon trail is the most straight forward way to climb the mountain. The trail follows the canyon bottom and meets up with the Desolation trail higher up. The other trail branches off from the Thayne Canyon trail and goes up a long series of switchbacks to the Salt Lake Overlook. This overlook is a good hike to do in winter. The Desolation trail was originally constructed as a motorcycle trail so many of the switchbacks are unnessary for hiking. This makes the ascent very gradual until it meets up the the Thayne Canyon trail. At the junction, the trail makes one long switchback to another junction. The trail divides and the Desolation trail goes east towards a saddle on the south side of Thayne Peak. It is a short scramble to the top from here. The view includes Mount Olympus, Wildcat Ridge, and peaks along Millcreek Ridge.

Triangle Peak

Triangle Peak - (9,410 feet)

This is the most striking mountain you will climb on the Wildcat Ridge traverse. The most common way to climb the mountain is by climbing Mount Olympus and then traversing over. Interestingly, the peaks that are located just east of Triangle Peak are higher. The mountain is shaped like a triangle, just like its name suggests, and there is a cliff down the north face of the mountain looking down into Neffs Canyon. You must continue east along the ridge in order to finish the Wildcat Ridge traverse. Hobbs Peak is the next major mountain you will get to. It is a rounded peak and more hiker friendly. Mount Raymond is the last major peak that you must climb in order to get to Baker Pass. Climbing up the west side of Mount Raymond is steep but not difficult unless you are really tired. From Baker Pass, you have a choice of taking a trail down into Millcreek Canyon or Big Cottonwood Canyon.

Mount Raymond

Mount Raymond - (10,241 feet)

Mount Raymond is the pointed summit located at the eastern end of Wildcat Ridge. Mount Raymond has several routes to choose from but the trail from Butler Fork is used the most. It starts in Big Cottonwood Canyon and goes up the drainage to the east of Circle-All Peak. It then heads north towards the base of Gobblers Knob. The trail eventually goes into Mill A Basin and makes one last switchback up toward Baker Pass. The climbers trail from the pass is straight forward and there is minor scrambling along the ridge. The summit is knob shaped with a narrow ridgeline that extends towards the southeast. Another route from Big Cottonwood Canyon goes up Mill B North Fork above the S-Curve trailhead. There is a nice viewpoint located about 1.2 miles up the trail that looks toward Cottonwood Ridge. This route goes all the way around the south side of Mount Raymond and meets up with the Butler Fork trail. Trails from Millcreek Canyon include Porter Fork and Bowman Trail.

Gobblers Knob

Gobblers Knob - (10,246 feet)

This is the highest mountain on the Olympus/Raymond ridge. The name of the mountain is odd but it is another good peak to climb in the area. It is only 5 feet higher than its neighbor Mount Raymond. They are seperated from each other by Baker Pass which is the normal route up the mountain. It is less than a mile to the summit from here and a climbers trail can be followed up the west ridge. The trail is steep but there is no scrambling. The first highpoint that you can see from the pass is not the actual summit. It is the next summit on the ridge that is only a few feet higher and more rocky. You can descend the ridge to the east in order to meet up with the route from Alexander Basin. This basin is in a beautiful alpine cirque and is less traveled than the route from Butler Fork. Porter Fork in Millcreek Canyon is another nice trail. Gobblers Knob and Mount Raymond can easily be climbed together.

Circle-All Peak - (8,707 feet)

This isn't really a mountain by definition but I thought I should mention it because it is a good peak to climb in early season. It's actually a bump at the end of the ridge below the south side of Gobblers Knob. The mountain is climbed from the Butler Fork trail. There is a junction at 0.5 miles and there will be a sign pointing left toward Circle-All Peak. A series of switchbacks climbs up the mountainside to a flat area on the trail directly north of the peak. A smaller trail branches off towards the south and takes only 10 minutes to get to the great viewpoint on top. The view includes Mount Raymond and Gobblers Knob, Kessler Peak to the south, and the Cottonwood Ridge Peaks. Circle-All Peak was named after an avalanche slide area located below the mountain.

Reynolds Peak

Reynolds Peak - (9,422 feet)

Reynolds Peak is an easy mountain to climb in the summer. It is also a good peak to climb in the winter because of the short approach and great views. There are two trails from Big Cottonwood Canyon that go to the base of Reynolds Peak. The Mill D North Fork trail goes to a junction with the Desolation Lake trail. It takes the left fork towards Dog Lake. The trail is short and steep. From Dog Lake the route goes to the saddle located north of Reynolds Peak. It gains about 2,200 feet in feet in 2.3 miles. Reynolds Peak can also be climbed from Butler Fork. It goes right at the first trail junction and then ascends the canyon located west of Reynolds Peak. The same trail on the north ridge can be followed to the summit. The shortest route to the top starts from Millcreek Canyon and goes up the Big Water trail. You'll get a good view of Mount Raymond and Gobblers Knob from the summit.

Little Water Peak - (9,605 feet)

Little Water Peak is located northeast of Reynolds Peak. They are in close proximity to each other and can be combined for a nice day of hiking. It uses the same trail up Mill D North Fork to Dog Lake. From the north side of the lake, there will be a smaller trail heading up the hillside. The trail follows the ridge northeast through the trees and bushes. It goes through an aspen forest to a false summit below the real summit. Descend down and climb back up toward the top. The summit is rounded flat pile of rocks. You'll be able to see Reynolds Peak which will look much smaller because it is almost 200 feet lower than Little Water Peak. Reynolds Peak is climbed more often because of its location directly above Dog Lake. The other route to Little Water Peak is up the Big Water trail at the end of Millcreek Canyon.

Mount Superior seen from Jupiter Hill on Park City Ridge

Park City Ridge

THE PARK CITY RIDGE PAGE

This ridge goes in a north to south direction instead of a west to east direction like the other main ridges in the Central Wasatch. The Park City Ridge is located on the eastern side of the Central Wasatch. It forms a chain of peaks that are at the end of Millcreek Canyon and Big Cottonwood Canyon. There are many mountains to climb but most of them are unnamed. There are a few peaks that reach over 10,000 feet in elevation and many others that are over 9,000 feet.

The Park City Ridge is full of rolling hills and rounded mountains just like the Northern Wasatch and Millcreek Ridge. For this reason, the area is more popular with hikers than climbers. There are several trails and ridges that runners and mountain bikers use during the summer. In the winter, skiers and snow boarders come here to play. An interesting thing to note is that there is a Red Pine Canyon and Lake, White Pine Canyon, and Thaynes Canyon located on the east side of Park City Ridge. Sometimes the Wasatch Mountains have similiar names for canyons, lakes, and mountains.

You're probably wondering if it is possible to traverse the Park City Ridge. Yes, and it's done a lot more than you think. A series of different trails can be used to hike the whole ridge. The Great Western Trail (GWT) traverses almost the entire length of the ridge and it is also used as the route of Wasatch 100 ultramarathon. The Mid Mountain Trail crosses the bowls on the east side of the ridge. This section of the GWT starts near Lambs Canyon and follows trails in Millcreek and Upper Millcreek Canyon. This ridgeline trail travels on the divide between Salt Lake and Summit Counties. It heads south and intersects the triple divide with Wasatch County.

Murdock Peak in winter

Murdock Peak - (9,602 feet)

Murdock Peak is located on the Park City Ridge and the end of the Millcreek Ridge. If you are doing the entire Millcreek Ridge traverse then Murdock Peak would be your last summit. It is more easily climbed from the trailhead at the end of Millcreek Canyon. Follow this trail east as it goes along the south side of the bottom of the canyon. It meets up with the Upper Millcreek Road and reaches a meadow where the trail divides. Go left and take the north fork. This leads to a pass just southeast of Murdock Peak. The mountain is climbed by its easy south slopes. This is a nice area during winter for cross-country skiers. The Wasatch Crest runs south all the way to Brighton. Most of the land on the Park City side of Murdock Peak is privately owned. Murdock Peak can also be climbed from the end of the road in Lambs Canyon. The road ends north of the peak and can be reached by hiking south.

Desolation Peak

Desolation Peak - (9,990 feet)

This mountain is also known as Hill 9,990. Desolation Peak is an easy mountain to climb because the Great Western Trail passes near the mountain's west side. It is located on the Park City Ridge southeast of Desolation Lake a popular hike in Big Cottonwood Canyon. It can be reached from Beartrap Fork. Another route is from the Mill D North Fork trail. This trail branches off with the trail to Dog Lake. You can also take the Millcreek Canyon trail and follow it to the ridge below Murdock Peak. Then follow the GWT south toward Desolation Peak. The eastern side of the mountain is home to the Canyons' ski lift named after Hill 9,990.

Silver Peak - (10,006 feet)

Silver Peak is the lowest mountain over 10,000 feet in Salt Lake County, but elevation doesn't measure difficulty. It is a relatively easy peak to reach. It is located to the southeast of Desolation Peak and the two can be climbed together. The Great Western Trail passes just below this peak's summit on the south face. The most popular routes are Beartrap Fork and the Mill D North Fork trail to Desolation Lake. Another route is from the Great Western Trail from Scott Hill. Silver Peak is barely noticable as a distinct peak along the ridgeline. It seems more like a bump on the ridge that happens to be above 10,000 feet.

Jupiter Bowl in summer

Jupiter Hill - (9,998 feet)

Jupiter Hill is located south across the deep canyon of Scott Pass. Guardsman Peak, Scott Peak, and Jupiter Hill are also good winter hikes on snowshoes or skis. Jupiter mine is located west of the peak. The route to the mountain starts fromt the end of the Guardsman Pass road. Jupiter Peak will be directly east of Guardsman Peak. Both of these peaks are located near the triple divide of Salt Lake County, Summit County, and Wasatch County and can be easily climbed together.

Guardsman Peak - (10,028 feet)

Guardsman Peak is located south of Scott Hill. From Guardsman Pass, follow the dirt track, which runs parallel to the Guardsman Pass road, just to the north, until a gate is reached. From this gate, follow the road around until you reach a chairlift. From the lift, walk east to the summit. Guardsman Peak can also be reached from Scott Pass. Clayton Peak is at the end of Cottonwood Ridge and will be to the southwest of Guardsman Peak. Several lakes can be seen to the southeast.

Scott Hill - (10,116 feet)

Scott Hill overlooks the Park City Ski Resort but it is most accessible from Big Cottonwood Canyon. There is a building with a fence just below the summit. An old mining shack and many houses on its south face. The route from Scott Pass is the easiest way to get there. It begins at the second hairpin curve or past the winter gate on the Guardsman Pass road. Start down this trail, which heads northeast to Scott Pass. From the pass, 2 trails head northwest, one towards an old shack, and one towards the summit. The one that is further uphill leads to the summit. Just follow this trail to the building below the summit, and hike to the top.

Sunrise Peak seen from Dromedary Peak during the Triple Traverse

Cottonwood Ridge

THE COTTONWOOD RIDGE PAGE

The Cottonwood Ridge is the prominent ridgeline that divides Big Cottonwood Canyon and Little Cottonwood Canyon. These two canyons give access to the trailheads for these mountains. They are the most popular areas around Salt Lake City to go hiking and mountain climbing. Big Cottonwood Canyon has more trails that lead up to canyons, lakes, and mountains. The Little Cottonwood side of the ridge is very steep because there are granite buttresses on both sides of the canyon. There are few trails in Little Cottonwood Canyon until you get to Cardiff Pass. At the end of the canyon is Alta Ski Resort and down lower is Snowbird Ski Resort.

The ridge runs west to east from Broads Fork Twin Peaks to Clayton Peak. Notable peaks are the Triple Traverse Peaks including Broads Fork Twin Peaks which is the highest mountain on the ridge. Monte Cristo and Mount Superior are located west of Cardiff Pass. Mount Wolverine is the highest mountain above Brighton. At the end of Big Cottonwood Canyon is Brighton Ski Resort and down lower is Solitude Ski Resort. A lot of peaks are in this area along with several lakes. The canyon has many quartzite crags that are popular with rock climbers. The highest mountains are over 11,000 feet in elevation and are very rugged with steep canyons and cliffs.

Tanners Gulch

The Triple Traverse

The Triple Traverse is named after the three main peaks located above Broads Fork. They are Broads Fork Twin Peaks, Sunrise Peak, and Dromedary Peak. A fun day involves traversing all three of them. Broads Fork is one of the best hikes on Cottonwood Ridge. There is a maintained trail that goes to the meadow located below these mountains. Snow doesn't melt from this area until mid-summer and avalanches are a common sight during winter. The Triple Traverse can be done any way you want but most people start with Twin Peaks, then Sunrise Peak, and then Dromedary Peak. If you are climbing Tanners Gulch then it is done in the opposite direction. Tanners Gulch is one of the best spring snow climbs in the Wasatch. This route has a small time frame for safe conditions usually from mid to late spring. In the summer, the easiest routes involve 3rd class scrambling.

Cottonwood Ridge

Cottonwood Ridge (West)

The next part of the ridge is known as the Cottonwood Ridge traverse. This part of the ridge is between Dromedary Peak and Mount Superior. This area is seldom visited by climbers. It usually begins with the Triple Traverse but it can also be done in the opposite direction. The ridgeline is narrow for most of the way and a few parts are knife-edged with some exposure looking down into Little Cottonwood Canyon. The scrambling isn't difficult but the rock is loose in many places. Mount Superior and Monte Cristo are the only named peaks on the ridge. There are many other peaks or points along the ridge but they are not named. The ridge is a lot longer than it looks and some times scrambling along it can be incredibly slow. There are a few places to bail if the weather gets bad. Almost all of them are down the north side into the basin above Lake Blanche. The routefinding is pretty staightforward but there are a few side ridges that connect with the main ridge.

Mount Wolverine

Cottonwood Ridge (East)

The last section of the ridge is located east of Cardiff Pass. These mountains are over 10,000 in elevation but are easier to climb than the higher peaks to the west. Most of the ridge is above or near timberline. This ridge can be broken into smaller hikes. The best option is either the Brighton Ridge Run or a another version of the hike called the Alta Ridge Run. These two hikes are for people who love peakbagging several mountains in one day. The good thing is that you don't need a car shuttle if you do them as a loop. Another nice ridge run is from Flagstaff Peak to Honeycomb cliffs. Few people hike this part of Cottonwood Ridge but you should start seeing people once you get to Twin Lakes Pass or Catherine Pass. The nearby ski resorts also give quick access to this area that allows you to have some nice winter climbs.

Lone Peak summit view looking south above the clouds in winter

Alpine Ridge

THE ALPINE RIDGE PAGE

The Alpine Ridge is the ridgeline that seperates Little Cottonwood Canyon and American Fork Canyon. Its name is appropriate because the entire ridge is above timberline. The mountains have a jagged alpine appearance and rise steeply from the surrounding valley. The rock in this area is made out of granite and there are many cliffs, walls, and buttresses. Several of these canyons end in cirque basins and a few have alpine lakes. There are many areas that are fun to explore and don't have trails. American Fork Canyon provides access to trails on the south side of the ridge. The Alpine Ridge goes in a west to east direction and ends at Alta.

It starts with Lone Peak at its west end and goes to Devils Castle at its east end. It eventually meets up with the Cottonwood Ridge near Sunset Peak. The highest mountains are over 11,000 feet in elevation with American Fork Twin Peaks being the highest one on the ridge and in Salt Lake County. Lone Peak is one of the most well known and strenuous mountains to climb in the Wasatch. Its west face is a sheer cliff and can be seen from many miles around. Other notable peaks include the Pfeifferhorn which is also known as the Little Matterhorn. The mountain is a perfectly shaped horn on the divide. White Baldy and Red Baldy are located further east along the ridge. Devils Castle is the mountain directly above Alta with the huge cliff face that drops down into Albion Basin.

The Alpine Ridge: Pfeifferhorn, Lightning Ridge, and South Thunder Mountain

American Fork Twin Peaks

The Bullion Divide

The Bullion Divide is a great ridge traverse that climbs over several peaks on the eastern half of the Alpine Ridge. It can be done in any direction but usually starts from Albion Basin. The first mountain on the ridge is Mount Baldy which can climbed by its east ridge. Follow the ridge over to Hidden Peak and watch the tram carry people to the top. Of course, you could take the tram to the top of Hidden Peak and forget about Mount Baldy, but that's not very fun. After Hidden Peak is the ascent up the northeast ridge of American Fork Twin Peaks. This is the highpoint of the ridge but you still have a lot of elevation gain and loss to go.

Descend down West Twin Peak and climb up the ridge to Red Top which is also known as Red Stack for obvious reasons. You'll get a great view from the top. To climb Red Baldy you can either follow the ridge directly or move over to the left and climb up scree gullies or chutes. Your last summit of the day can be seen to the southwest. The route up White Baldy goes up the east ridge while trying to avoid cliffbands along the way. The preferred descent is the west ridge of White Baldy to Red Pine Lake.

Pfeifferhorn

The Beatout Hike

The Beatout Hike is one of the classic ridge scrambles in the Wasatch Mountains. It starts from the White Pine Traihead and goes to Red Pine Lake essentially where the Bullion Divide ended. It climbs up the headwall west of White Baldy. The route goes west towards the Pfeifferhorn which is only five feet higher than White Baldy. This is the highpoint of the ridge and one of the most beautiful mountains in the Wasatch. The route descends down towards Peak 11,137 and heads to the beginning of Lightning Ridge. Chipman Peak is located on a short spur ridge and is a nice bonus mountain to climb along the way. The north side of Lightning Ridge drops down into Hogum Fork.

Hogum Fork is located in a large glacial cirque and has no established trails. At the end of the ridge is a steep boulder hopping ascent to South Thunder Mountain. Its seldom climbed neighbor North Thunder Mountain can be seen to north along with Thunder Mountain Bowl which is another glacier carved cirque. This is also the triple divide between Dry Creek, Hogum Fork, and Bells Canyon. The most common descent is down to Upper Bells Canyon Reservoir. You'll be descending down a steep boulderfield for most of the way. There will be a trail once you get to the reservoir. The Beatout Hike's name is most likely from the bushwhacking and hiking involved in descending down Bells Canyon. Some people say it is named after the way you feel after completing the hike.

Mount Superior South Ridge

Peak Lists

Utah County Highpoints List

American Fork Twin Peaks - Salt Lake County

Devils Castle

Utah Prominence Peaks List

American Fork Twin Peaks - 23rd highest prominence in Utah

Wasatch 11,000 foot Peaks List

Cottonwood Ridge

East Broads Fork Twin Peak - (11,330 feet)
West Broads Fork Twin Peak - (11,328 feet)
Sunrise Peak - (11,275 feet)
Monte Cristo - (11,132 feet)
Dromedary Peak - (11,107 feet)
Mount Superior - (11,050 feet)
Cottonwood Ridge Peak - (11,033 feet)

Hogum Fork

Alpine Ridge

West American Fork Twin Peak - (11,489 feet)
East American Fork Twin Peak - (11,483 feet)
South American Fork Twin Peak - (11,391 feet)
Eastern American Fork Twin Peak - (11,007 feet)
Pfeifferhorn - (11,326 feet)
White Baldy - (11,321 feet)
Lone Peak - (11,253 feet)
Red Baldy - (11,171 feet)
Red Top Mountain - (11,171 feet)
South Thunder Mountain - (11,154 feet)
North Thunder Mountain - (11,150 feet)
West Pfeifferhorn - (11,137 feet)
Mount Baldy - (11,068 feet)
Sugarloaf Peak - (11,051 feet)

Salt Lake County - Highest Peaks List

Lone Peak

1) American Fork Twin Peaks - (11,489 feet)
2) Broads Fork Twin Peaks - (11,330 feet)
3) Pfeifferhorn - (11,326 feet)
4) White Baldy - (11,321 feet)
5) Sunrise Peak - (11,275 feet)
6) Lone Peak - (11,253 feet)
7) Red Baldy - (11,171 feet)
8) South Thunder Mountain - (11,154 feet)
9) North Thunder Mountain - (11,150 feet)
10) Monte Cristo - (11,132 feet)
11) Dromedary Peak - (11.107 feet)
12) Mount Baldy - (11,068 feet)
13) Sugarloaf Peak - (11,051 feet)
14) Unnamed Peak - (10,910 feet)
15) Upper Bells Peak - (10,877 feet)
16) Mount Wolverine - (10,795 feet)
17) Clayton Peak - (10,721 feet)

Cottonwood Ridge Peaks

18) Sunset Peak - (10,678 feet)
19) Unnamed Peak - (10,561 feet)
20) Obelisk "Hogum Divide" - (10,516 feet)
21) Bells Cleaver - (10,488 feet)
22) Honeycomb Cliffs - (10,479 feet)
23) Pioneer Peak - (10,440 feet)
24) Unnamed Peak - (10,420 feet)
25) Kessler Peak - (10,403 feet)
26) Unnamed Peak - (10,316 feet)
27) Rocky Mouth Canyon Peak - (10,292 feet)
28) Gobblers Knob - (10,246 feet)
29) Mount Raymond - (10,241 feet)
30) Scott Hill - (10,116 feet)
31) Guardsman Peak - (10,026 feet)
32) Silver Peak - (10,006 feet)

Silver Lake near Brighton in October

The Lakes

The Wasatch Mountains do not have a lot of lakes compared to the Uinta Mountains but the ones that they do have are beautiful. Some are in forested areas and others are in glacial cirques. They are the most popular places to go hiking in the Central Wasatch. You'll be able to see most of these lakes on the approach hikes to the mountains. Many canyons in these mountains have streams which flow from the outlet of lakes. The snow from the highest lakes doesn't usually melt until mid summer when it is already warm in the valley. A hike to any of these lakes is enjoyable even if you don't climb any mountains. Many of the them are listed below.

Dog Lake

White Pine Lake

Dog Lake is located northeast of Reynolds Peak and southwest of Little Water Peak. You can get there from the Butler Fork Trail or Mill D North Fork trail in Big Cottonwood Canyon or the Big Water Trail in Millcreek Canyon. It is a small lake in a forest and has no outlet. You may have already guessed that the lake is popular with hikers who have dogs. Dogs are only allowed on the Millcreek side of the ridge.

Desolation Lake

Desolation Lake is located east of Dog Lake. Desolation Peak is above the lake to the southeast. The lake always seems to have a deep green color to it. It can be reached from Mill D North Fork by taking a right at the first junction with the Dog Lake trail. The most direct route is from Beartrap Fork in Big Cottonwood Canyon. You can also get there from Millcreek Canyon and the Great Western Trail. A trail loops around the entire lake.

Lake Blanche & Dromedary

Lake Blanche

Lake Blanche is one of the classic lake hikes in the Wasatch Mountains. It is located at the end of the maintained trail in Mill B South Fork or more commonly known as the Lake Blanche Fork. The view of the surrounding mountains make the lake a popular destination. Sundial Peak is directly south of the lake and is a favorite for photographers. Dromedary Peak is to the southwest and the Cottonwood Ridge is behind. A short hike to the west will take you to Lake Florence and Lake Lillian.

Silver Lake

This is one of the easiest hikes in the Wasatch that is basically accessible to anyone. It is a short walk from the parking lot at Brighton Ski Resort. A boardwalk goes around the whole lake which makes it one of the busiest lakes in the area. The trail starts near the Brighton store and also gives access to the Twin Lakes and Lake Solitude trails.

Twin Lakes Reservoir

Lake Solitude

Lake Solitude is a tiny lake located in a steep walled bowl. You can get there by hiking on the trail north of Silver Lake. It goes into the Mill F South Fork drainage and crosses beneath several ski runs. The area above the lake was used extensively during the mining era. The lake can also be reached by the Solitude Area Road. This trail branches off just north of Twin Lakes Reservoir.

Twin Lakes

As the name says, this was originally two lakes that became one large lake. It is now a reservoir and there is a dam on its east side. You can hike there from Twin Lakes Pass in Alta. In Brighton, you can take the maintenance road up a series of switchbacks through many ski runs. The better way to get there is to take the Silver Lake trail and turn at the junction just north of the lake.

Lake Catherine

Lake Mary and Lake Martha

Lake Mary is a large lake set in a glacial basin above Brighton. In 1916, the lake was made into a reservoir in order to create a water supply. A dam sits on the east end of the lake. The Brighton Lakes trail can be taken to Lake Mary and it is an easy hike in the area. Lake Martha is a smaller lake located southwest of Lake Mary in the same basin.

Lake Catherine

Lake Catherine sits in a basin to the north of Sunset Peak and Pioneer Peak. You can get there from Alta or Brighton. From Alta, the route goes up Catherine Pass to the west of the lake and descends down to it. From Brighton, the trail goes passed the junctions with Lake Mary and Dog Lake and continues west towards Lake Catherine. It is one of the nicest lakes in the area.

Secret Lake

Secret Lake

Secret Lake is located north of Sugarloaf Peak and Devils Castle above Alta. Its name is also spelled as Cecret Lake. It is an easy hike and a popular destination with the locals. Albion Basin starts at a high elevation and is very pretty especially during summer when the wildflowers are out. There are also a lot of moose and deer and other wildlife in the area.

Pittsburg Lake

Pittsburg Lake is located in a small basin surrounded by forest south of Devils Castle. Most people view the lake from the summit of Devils Castle or Sugarloaf Peak. It is more easily reached by American Fork Canyon. The Pittsburg Lake trail is about a mile long hike from the trailhead. It starts off of the dirt road to Mineral Basin.

Silver Lake & White Baldy

Silver Lake and Silver Glance Lake

These two lakes are located on the south side of White Pine Ridge in American Fork Canyon. Silver Lake is the larger of the two lakes and can be reached by trail. Silver Glance Lake is located in a high amphitheater surrounded by cliffs. The route to get there is all off-trail. This lake isn't visited very much and offers a spectacular setting below Red Baldy and White Baldy. The south face of White Baldy can be climbed from this approach. Red Baldy can also be combined with this climb.

White Pine Lake

White Pine Lake is located beneath the north face of White Baldy. It starts from the White Pine trailhead in Little Cottonwood Canyon. The trail is actually an old dirt road that is easy to follow. It follows the east side of the creek in White Pine Canyon. This also makes it a ten mile hike because there are many switchbacks on the road. The trail ends above the lake and you must hike down to it. It is one of the highest lakes in the Wasatch Mountains.

Red Pine Lake

Red Pine Lake

Red Pine Lake is one of the most popular hikes on the Alpine Ridge. It starts from the White Pine trailhead and branches off at a junction about a mile from the trailhead. The lake is located northwest of White Baldy. Upper Red Pine Lake sits in a basin just above lower Red Pine Lake. A boulderfield leads up to the ridgeline. This is also the regular route to climb the Pfeifferhorn.

Maybird Lakes

Maybird Lakes are actually more like large ponds that are located in the canyon west of Red Pine Canyon. The reward for this hike if the great view that you get of the north side of the Pfeifferhorn. The trail to Maybird Lakes is at a junction with Red Pine Canyon at about 2.6 miles up the trail. The trail climbs around the ridge and enters Maybird Gulch.

Upper Bells Reservoir

Upper Bells Reservoir

This lake is located at the end of the maintained trail in Bells Canyon. This canyon is northeast of Lone Peak on the Alpine Ridge. Lower Bells Reservoir is near the bottom of the canyon. The trail passes by the Bells Towers which have several rock climbing routes. The trail gains over 4,000 feet of elevation to the Upper Lake. To the east and southeast of the lake is North and South Thunder Mountain. Lone Peak can be seen to the southwest of the lake.

Lake Hardy

Lake Hardy is a high alpine lake located beneath Chipman Peak, South Thunder Mountain, and Upper Bells Peak on the Alpine Ridge. There are cliffs that form a amphitheater around the lake. Lake Hardy is on the other side of the divide from Upper Bells Reservoir. The trail starts from Dry Creek which is the same trailhead for the South Face of Lone Peak. It gains over 4,500 feet of elevation to reach the lake. You can routefind your way up through the cliffbands to reach Lightning Ridge above the lake.

The Thumb in Little Cottonwood Canyon

Climbing Areas

Climbers that live in Salt Lake City know how fortunate they are to be near so many quality climbing areas. The Cottonwood Canyons are a short drive from the city and have hundreds of routes. In general, Big Cottonwood Canyon sports many single-pitch climbs. There are also a number of short multi-pitch routes ranging from two to four pitches. This makes it a good canyon with more moderate routes. A few miles south of Big Cottonwood Canyon is Little Cottonwood Canyon. This canyon features friction face climbing and crack climbing on coarse and polished granite. These routes sometimes rise at a lower angle but the climbing here is more difficult. Ferguson Canyon contains granite rock outcroppings below Storm Mountain. There are other areas for those of you looking for a more alpine climbing experience. Big Willow Canyon and Bells Canyon below Lone Peak offer long approaches and solitude at a higher elevation with beautiful surroundings.

Dan�s Wasatch Granite Climbs 2008

Superior South Ridge

Wasatch Alpine Climbs

The Wasatch Mountains also have a lot of alpine routes to choose from. Many of these climbs are classic routes that shouldn't be missed. This is a good page to look at if you want to climb something more challenging than the regular route up every mountain. Difficulty and quality ratings are stated on the page. They range from rock scrambles to snow and ice climbs. Winter ascents up a lot of the higher peaks have been done by some of the Utah SPers. Broads Fork Twin Peaks, Sunrise Peak, Dromedary, Lone Peak, Monte Cristo and Mount Superior are a few of them.

Parleys Canyon

Parleys Canyon is the connection between Salt Lake City and Park City. There are many quartzite cliffbands along the canyon but they are quite close to the highway. A couple a crags are worthwhile if you are in the area. Grandeur Peak forms the the boundary south of Parleys Canyon. Riptide Wall is located within minutes of the mouth of the canyon. It faces north and gets a lot of shade during the day. Routes here range from 5.9 - 5.11 and are well protected. Iron Curtain Wall is the larger wall that is located to the west. Most of the routes are well protected and range from 5.8 - 5.11. Grandeur Peak has a limestone hogback on its west face that is called the Reef. There are numerous routes that range from 5.8 - 5.12 in difficulty.

Millcreek Canyon

Millcreek Canyon has several limestone crags located on the south side of Grandeur Peak. There are a few walls that are down lower in the canyon. Millcreek Canyon is full of rock but most of it is poor quality. It is the type that is loose and crumbly. There are some areas that have been cleaned and have some good climbing. The Stitches Wall is 1.5 miles up the canyon. You can go ahead and guess why it is named that. The rock is sharp and rated about 5.9. Church Fork Wall is located right next to the hiking trail up Grandeur Peak. There are many lines up the cliff but not many established routes so toproping is usually done here. Other cliffsbands include Grandeur Slander Wall and Code Blue Wall which have routes rated 5.10 - 5.11.

The Coffin

Crescent Crack

The Thumb

Big Cottonwood Canyon

This is one of the most popular places to rock climb around Salt Lake City. Big Cottonwood Canyon has great quality quartzite routes that have both sport and trad climbing. At first the climbing areas look like huge choss piles but you'll find good climbing once you get there. Dogwood Crag is one of the first walls in the canyon. You'll always see people climbing here because the approach takes about one minute. There are several beginner routes here and topropping is easy. The Salt Lake Slips is another popular area with bolted routes ranging from 5.6 - 5.10. Storm Mountain Island is a common meeting place for climbers. Every type of climbing from cracks, slabs, and overhangs can be found here. There are also a lot of easier climbs in this area. On the other side of the road is the Dead Snag Area which several moderate multi-pitch climbing routes. The S-Curve Area has trad and sport climbing and one of the hardest routes in the canyon located on the huge roof.

Ferguson Canyon

This is the next canyon south of Big Cottonwood Canyon. It is located on the west side of Storm Mountain. This narrow canyon has many granite crags and buttresses with good climbing routes. Almost everything here is one pitch long. The routes are steep and a lot more challenging than they look. Heart Wall and Guano Wall are the first crags you will pass by. The Watchtower is the most popular area. It has the highest amount of routes that are mainly in the 5.10 - 5.11 range with a couple of moderates thrown in. Higher up in the canyon is the Tower of Babel, The Cathedral, Goldenfingers Wall, and several others. Of course, if you feel like you need more exercise, you could always climb Storm Mountain while you're there.

Little Cottonwood Canyon

Little Cottonwood Canyon has multi-pitch climbs on granite featuring difficult slabs and cracks. Crescent Crack Buttress is one of the first climbing areas in the canyon along with the Coffin and the Egg which have classic routes. The Gate Buttress is one of the popular gathering spots in the canyon. The place is huge and is divided into the Schoolroom Area, Five Fingers Area, Prune Face, the Dihedrals Area, and Beckey's Wall. You can guess who that is named after. Lisa Falls is a nice area with several moderate routes. You can actually find three different types of rock in Little Cottonwood Canyon. It begins with the Humane Society Wall at the mouth of the canyon which is made out of quartzite, then the majority of walls which are made out of granite, and the Hellgate Cliffs which are made out of limestone. Many difficult routes with little protection were climbed in the 1960's and 1970's. The Thumb is the largest buttress in the canyon with routes that are eight pitches long.

Dogwood Crag

Transformer

Question Mark Wall

Middle Bell Tower

Arm and Hammer

Big Willow Canyon

Big Willow Canyon is located south of Bells Canyon on the west side of Lone Peak. It is a wild and scenic canyon with just as many granite climbing walls as Bells Canyon. The approach to this area is strenous and there are few people that hike up here. One of the lowest walls in the canyon is Twilight Buttress near the mouth of Big Willow Canyon on its north side. There are many quality climbing routes which feature steep face climbing on edges and slabs. The routes range from 5.9 - 5.12. Farther up the canyon are two other climbing walls. Jon's Hideout is in an area of many granite outcrops that have routes rated 5.9 - 5.12. The Guardian is a little farther up the canyon after Jon's Hideout. It will be on the north side of Big Willow Canyon. There are a couple routes that are in the 5.9 to 5.11 range. At the end of the canyon is Big Willow cirque which is similiar to Lone Peak cirque. This is a 500 foot wall that has several moderate routes that are 5.6 to 5.8 in difficulty. This is a very pretty cirque that doesn't see many climbers.

Bells Canyon

Bells Canyon is the large U-shaped canyon that is located northwest of Lone Peak. The canyon is full of granite buttresses. All of the towers are on the north side of the canyon and face the sun. So climbing in the area in mid-summer would be quite hot. The rock quality is good is some areas and poor in others. All of the climbing is multi-pitch trad climbing with long approaches. The first tower in the canyon is called the Far West Tower and has routes rated 5.8 to 5.10. The West Bell Tower is the next one and has several routes that are 5.8 - 5.11. Middle Bell Tower is the most beautiful tower and has routes that are five to six pitches long. They are rated 5.6 to 5.11. East Bell Tower is the easternmost tower in the area. It has the easiest moderate climb of all of the towers with the Route of All Evil which is rated 5.6. Don't let some of the low ratings fool you because the routes tend to feel more difficult.

Mount Olympus seen from Salt Lake valley

5th Class Mountains

The Wasatch Mountains have a lot of 3rd and 4th class mountains with many climbing possiblities. The Cottonwood Canyons have plenty of climbing areas but there aren't any mountains in the Wasatch that require technical climbing by their regular routes. If you look around you'll see that there are mountains that have 5th class routes to their summits. I have listed a few of them below.

Mount Olympus

West Slabs on Mount Olympus

There are many routes up Mount Olympus. The West Slabs is probably the most climbed route. It's rated 5.5 and is 12 pitches long. The climbing is not difficult but the exposure is always there because you are basically looking straight down the slabs for the entire climb. This makes it a nice beginners route for trad climbers. Geurt's Ridge is rated 5.5. It follows the west ridge of the south summit. There are towers along the way that and may require rappelling. There are two well known routes on the north side of the mountain. Kamps Ridge follows the left skyline and is rated 5.7. The Great Chimney cuts a deep notch into the ridge to the right of Kamps Ridge. It is six pitches long and rated 5.7. Approaches usually take at least two hours. The mountain is full of many other possible rock climbing routes.

Sundial Peak

The first thing you'll notice about Sundial Peak is that is has a huge cliff that drops down toward Lake Blanche. There are some rock climbing routes that go up the north face. The O'Dell Brothers and Rodell Petersen climbed Sundial Peak in the early 1940's. Then Harold Goodro and Jim Shane added a new route. In the 1970's, Larry and Steve Swanson climbed the peak and several other ascents followed. The route descriptions for this peak were not recorded very well and information is limited. This is an alpine environment and most climbs will take all day. You'll need to be able to climb with very little protection and have good route finding skills. All of the routes end at a false summit overlooking Lake Blanche. The real summit is located south along the ridgeline. The best descent is down the scramblers route on the southwest. The face stays in the shade so a warm day is prefered. All routes are at least four pitches long.

The North Face (5.6 - 5.9) - This face has many climbing possiblities. Most routes start on the right side of the face.
The Eleventh Hour (5.8) - This route climbs up the ridge that seperates the north and east ridge.

Sundial Peak

South of The Corner (5.7) - This route is a variation of The North Face and The Eleventh Hour.

Devils Castle

Devils Castle stands high above Albion Basin. There is exposure on its regular route because there is a huge cliff on its north face. This route traverses the three summits. There is some loose rock but it has some nice scrambling. There has been at least one line that was created on the north face. It is called the Black Streak for the dark colored line that the route follows. The route is rated at 5.10b and isn't climbed much. It is six pitches long and tops out near the west summit of Devils Castle. The regular descent is down either the west ridge or the east ridge to finish the traverse.

Lone Peak

Lone Peak cirque is full of granite climbing walls and is one of the most beautiful areas to climb in the Wasatch. This is alpine climbing and the views are great. The summit of Lone Peak has many routes but the Open Book is climbed the most. It is rated 5.7 and is six pitches long. It follows the right side of the summit wall. If you want something more challenging you could try the Triple Overhangs which is rate 5.10a. The south summit wall has routes that range from 5.7 - 5.11. Question Mark Wall is located further south. Below the summit is the obvious question mark for which the wall is named. Its routes range from 5.8 - 5.12. Big Willow Canyon is just north of the Lone Peak cirque. There are moderate routes in the canyon that are 5.6 - 5.8 in difficulty. There are so many places to climb in the Lone Peak area but not many climbers because of the long approach and substantial elevation gain required to get there.

Lone Peak cirque in winter with Question Mark Wall on the right

Ice Climbing

Ice Climbers have been climbing in the Cottonwood Canyons for decades. Many of these areas contain quality ice similar to Provo Canyon. The first major ice climb was made by Ted Wilson and Rick Reese in the 1960�s. They made a step-cutting ascent of the Great White Icicle in Little Cottonwood Canyon. Dave George and George Lowe made the first ice ascent of Super Slab in the late 1960�s. In Big Cottonwood Canyon, Storm Mountain Falls was climbed by Dave Jenkins and Rick Wyatt in 1979. In the early 1980�s, the Scottish Gully was climbed by Brett Ruckman and Gary Olsen.

Scruffy Band

Great White Icicle

Storm Mountain Falls

Big Cottonwood Canyon

Scottish Gully: I, WI4 or M4 - 260 foot ice gully located near the western side of the buttress 2.5 miles up Big Cottonwood Canyon.

Storm Mountain Falls: I, WI4-5 - This 270 foot ice climb is located below Static Wall and has a short approach hike.

B-Pitch: I, WI4 - This 180 foot climb is located on Bumble Bee Wall and usually has some mixed climbing as well.

Little Cottonwood Canyon

Super Slab: I-II, WI2-3 - Low angled ice climbing over granite slabs that can have up to 600 feet of climbing.

Scruffy Band: I, WI3-4 - 200 foot ice climb located on the first granite slab on the south side of Little Cottonwood Canyon.

The Great White Icicle: II, WI3 - Popular ice climb in Little Cottonwood Canyon that is 4 pitches long and 650 feet high.

Storm Mountain Falls Area

Salt Lake City Weather

Moonlight over Silver Fork and Days Fork

Mt. Olympus summit view

Salt Lake City has a varied weather climate. It has warm, dry, and sunny summers and a cold winter climate, with snowy weather. It is located in a large valley separated by the Wasatch Mountains to the east and the Oquirrh Mountains to the west. The metro area below the mountains is known commonly as the Wasatch Front. The Wasatch Faultline runs along the eastern benches of the city along the foothills near the Bonneville Shoreline Trail. This is because the valley floor was the location of ancient Lake Bonneville.

Springtime in Salt Lake City is warm, although the weather and climate can be variable, with sudden showers occurring. During spring, temperatures start to warm up drastically and days are marked by the highest humidity and some of the wildest daily temperature swings of the year. The first summer-like weather usually comes in mid-to-late May. The last snowfall of the season usually occurs in early or mid-April, although snow was recorded as late as May 18 in 1977. Significant snow can fall during March and even later in Spring.

In Salt Lake City, the season of Summer last for about three months. The weather is warm and sunny from June through mid-September. The hottest months of the year are July and August, when daytime temperatures can reach around 90 �F, followed by cool nights. Summer thunderstorms can occur, with wet weather and occasional downpours. The low humidity and the altitude combine to produce a large daily range in temperatures, and rather cool nights in summer. The warmest month is July, with an average temperature of 77.0 �F.

Sunrise Peak

The season of Autumn weather and climate begins in the month of September and ends in November andsettled weather can be experienced. The wet weather doesn't last long and it is usually a pleasant season with warm, sunny days and cool nights. Temperatures start to get cooler with a 50 �F maximum average temperature drop being experienced within three months. The first winter-like weather is usually experienced in early-to-mid October. The freeze-free period lasts from April 30 to October 15. Salt Lake City's average yearly temperature is about 52 �F.

Winter in Salt Lake City runs from November through the end of March and the coldest months are December and January, when daytime temperatures drop to 37 �F. Night temperatures are much colder and snowy weather occurs from December onwards, with heavy snowfalls in the mountains, but much less in the city. In winter, temperatures are moderated by the Great Salt Lake to the northwest of the city and the Rocky Mountains to the north and east of the state, which serve as barriers to the frigid arctic air. Salt Lake City temperatures seldom fall below 0 �F for any length of time.

Why is there an inversion? One of the most significant weather events occurs in winter, when temperature inversions sometimes form. This results in cold, foggy, and hazy weather in the city while the surrounding mountains enjoy warmer temperatures and sunshine. Temperature inversions are very unhealthy and can occur weeks at a time, and are most noticable in the middle of winter, although may occur in other seasons to a lesser extent. Humidity is only high enough for fog to occur in winter, although haze and smog can be found year-round. Inversions occur when strong areas of high pressure park themselves over the Great Basin. It usually takes a strong storm or cold front to force out or break down the high pressure.

Under certain weather conditions, which occur up to roughly a dozen times a year, some of the algae dies off and decays in the Great Salt Lake. The northwest winds carry the scent of decaying algae into the city. The smell is known as "lake stink". Because of the flatness of the valley, the large amount of salt, and the lake not being a good place to fish; the lake stink is one of the few reminders people have that they live near a major body of water. The salinity of the water averages about 12% making it much saltier than the ocean. The water is so buoyant that people can easily float in it.

Central Wasatch Mountains seen from Mount Olympus

Mountain Conditions

Sundial Peak winter storm

Lone Peak in winter

Summer is the normal hiking season for these mountains. This is usually from July through mid-September. Temperatures can range from near 90 degrees in the daytime to 30 degrees at night. Occasional summer thundershowers can be expected.

Experienced climbers can climb year round. In winter, temperatures are 30-40 degrees but can be much colder in the higher elevations. Be prepared with full winter gear if you plan on climbing any mountains.

Here is the local weather forecast for Salt Lake City and another one from the NWS website

Here is the weather forecast for Brighton and