| Northern Utah Ranges Area/Range |
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Geography
| Northern Utah Ranges   | 
| Page Type: Area/Range Location: Utah, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 41.91139°N / 111.67444°W Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter Elevation: 9979 ft / 3042 m | Page By: mountaingazelle Created/Edited: Mar 16, 2006 / Jun 26, 2008 Object ID: 181177 Hits: 6195 Loading... Page Score: 91.2% - 38 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Overview
Northern Utah is an area of mountain and desert terrain. When people think about visiting Utah for the first time, they usually decide to see the national parks in the south or go hiking in the Wasatch Mountains east of Salt Lake City. Few people come here to visit the northern end of the state. The main thing I have noticed about hiking and climbing here is the feeling of isolation. The purpose of this page is to describe all of different mountain ranges and show the variety of places that many people may not know about. This includes the area between Interstate 80 and Idaho and a few other ranges farther south.
There are a few designated wilderness areas in Northern Utah. The Mount Naomi Wilderness was established in 1984 and has over 44,500 acres of land. All of the wilderness is entirely in Utah and is managed by the Forest Service. It is located in the Bear River Range on the Utah-Idaho border located northeast of Logan, Utah. Naomi Peak is the area's highest point, and the mountain for which the wilderness is named after. There are several other peaks towering above 9,000 feet. There are many beautiful lakes and deep, scenic canyons that provide access to the area.
The Wellsville Mountains Wilderness is located above Cache Valley. It was established by Congress in 1984. It occupies an area of 23,850 acres and is located entirely in Utah. The water that runs out of the Wellsville Mountains is used to supply many cities. The wilderness was once overgrazed but has recovered and now has populations of deer, elk, moose, and mountain lions. Day hikers, hunters, and bird watchers are the people that use the area the most but it is never crowded. There are about 17 miles of trails and many more canyons to explore.
The Deseret Peak Wilderness is located west of the cities of Tooele and Grantsville. It was named after Deseret Peak, the highest summit in Stansbury Mountains. This wilderness was established by Congress in 1984 with passage of the Utah Wilderness Act. It is entirely located within the range in the Wasatch-Cache National Forest. The Deseret Peak Wilderness consists of approximately 25,500 acres and is generally bounded on the north by the Pass Canyon drainage, on the south by Vickory Mountain, on the west by Skull Valley and on the east by the Mack Canyon-Big Hollow Trail.
The other mountain ranges are much less visited and information is limited. Many peaks require driving long distances on dirt roads. Perhaps the most interesting mountains are the ones that surround the Great Salt Lake. A few of these are easily accessible while most are small islands surrounded by salt flats and water. The ranges farther west like the Silver Island Range and Newfoundland Mountains all have great mountains and scenery. If they were located closer to the Wasatch Front there would certainly be more people climbing there.
Some of the larger mountain ranges have their own page. The highest point of smaller ranges or sub-ranges may also be added. Mountains ranges in the area include: the Bear River Range, the Wellsville Mountains, Monte Cristo Range, Northern Wasatch Mountains, Promontory Mountains, Antelope Island, Stansbury Island, Silver Island Mountains, Newfoundland Mountains, Hogup Mountains, Grouse Creek Mountains, Goose Creek Mountains, Hansel Mountains, Blue Spring Hills, West Hills, Lakeside Mountains, Grassy Mountains, Crawford Mountains, Cedar Mountains, Oquirrh Mountains, Stansbury Mountains, and the Raft River Mountains.
Sardine Canyon and the Wellsville Mountains |
Northern Wasatch  Naomi Peak in the Bear River Range
Bear River Range
The Bear River Range is the northernmost extension of the Wasatch Range. It is located on the border of Southeast Idaho and Northern Utah. The largest city in the area is Logan. I have hiked many of the trails and find it to be very quiet most of the time. Naomi Peak is the highest mountain in the range and sees the majority of traffic. The other mountains are around 9,000 feet in elevation and are worth climbing as well. This is a limestone mountain range that has formed several caves. Most of them are not well known and are open to anyone who is willing to do some off-trail exploring. Steep limestone cliffs are located on both sides of Logan Canyon. Hundreds of sport and trad routes line these walls.
Wellsville Mountains
The Wellsville Mountains are the most compact range in Utah. What it lacks in size, it makes up in steepness. The mountains rise over 4,500 feet above the valley floor with very few foothills. It is a sub-range of the Wasatch Mountains. The highest mountain is Box Elder Peak with Wellsville Cone coming in at a close second. It is mostly a dry mountain range and you will have to carry all of your water with you when hiking. A trail goes over the crest of the main peaks including the smaller ones to the north. The southern peaks above Sardine Canyon don’t have any trails but can be climbed with some bushwhacking up to the ridgeline. The main reason people climb in the Wellsville Mountain is to see the large migration of hawks and other birds from summer through early fall.
 Ben Lomond in the Northern Wasatch Mountains
Monte Cristo Range
The Monte Cristo Range is a little known sub-range located at the junction of two areas. It is on the eastern side of the huge wilderness that contains the Northern Wasatch. It is separated from the Bear River Range by Ant Valley to the west. The highest mountain in the range is Monte Cristo Peak, 9,148 feet. There are not very many hikers that come here though. The range is used primarily by people riding 4-wheelers, motorcycles, and mountain bikes. There are many dirt roads in the area including one that goes near the summit of Monte Cristo Peak. Other mountains include Eccles Peak, Mount McKinnon, Little Monte, Little Baldy, and Squaw Butte. The best time to climb is in winter, spring, or fall. Hiking from Causey Resevoir is the standard route in summer.
Northern Wasatch Mountains
The Northern Wasatch Mountains run north to south from Brigham City to Parleys Canyon. The mountains are lower in elevation than others areas in the Wasatch but offer several excellent peaks to climb. The highest mountain is Willard Peak near Ben Lomond at the northern end of the range. The range is composed of folded layers of quartzite which is highly visible near Ogden. These cliff bands have difficult trad routes and few climbers. On the east side of the range the rock turns into sharp limestone. The summits of these mountains tend to be rounded with long ridgelines. Ridge traverses are my favorite form of hiking and the Northern Wasatch offers plenty of possibilities.
Monte Cristo Peak view toward the Northern Wasatch Mountains |
Bannock Sub-Ranges
Bannock Range
The Bannock Range is located in Southeast Idaho with the southern end of the range extending into Northern Utah. The main crest of the range runs for about 65 miles traveling in a north to south direction. It is an interesting mountain range that few climbers seem to know about. The mountains are covered in green vegetation and forests with several streams and no alpine lakes. It is a great place to go if you like solitude. The Bannock Range consists of several sub-ranges on the border of Idaho and Utah. The sub-ranges are called by different names in books and on maps but I will refer to them by their most common name.
Malad Range
Gunsight Peak - (8,244 feet)
The Malad Range is a sub-range of the Bannock Range. The range runs south from Idaho over the Utah border. The mountains were named for their proximity to the city of Malad, Idaho. Gunsight Peak is the highest mountain on a long ridge called Clarkston Mountain. The west side of the peak rises precipitously over Castlegate and Dutchmans Canyons. The easiest and most friendly route is from Elgrove Canyon. It is located on the north side of Gunsight Peak and goes to within 300 feet of the summit. Every other side of the mountain has no trails and is quite rugged. Other mountains include Sheep Dip Mountain, 7,057 feet, and Red Knoll, 6,813 feet. The highest mountain in Idaho is Peak 6,995.
West Hills
West Hills Highpoint - (7,227 feet)
The West Hills are the continuation of the Samaria Mountains in Idaho. The West Hills are located north of the Blue Spring Hills north of Highway 84. The range parallels Interstate 15 on the west near the Idaho and Utah border. The highest point is unnamed and 7,227 feet in elevation. Access to the mountain is from the town of Washakie. A dirt road goes west toward Ruff Canyon. At the end of the road is a trail that goes southwest all the way to the top of the highpoint. The highest mountain in Idaho is Samaria Mountain which is 7,795 feet in elevation.
Blue Spring Hills
Thatcher Mountain - (6,206 feet)
The Blue Spring Hills are located northeast of the Promontory Mountains and south of the West Hills. Thatcher Mountain is the highest point in the Blue Spring Hills. It is located on the southeast side of the range. The mountains are north and east of Highway 83 and south and west of Highway 84. There is a road that goes north toward the small town of Thatcher for which the mountain is named. There is a dirt road that is just north of town that goes west toward the mountain. It can be climbed easily from any direction. The highest mountain in Idaho is Peak 7,793 which is located north of the Samaria Mountains.
Hansel Mountains
Hansel Mountains Highpoint - (6,242 feet)
The Hansel Mountains are located northwest of the Promontory Range. This is near the northern tip of the Great Salt Lake northeast of Spring Bay. The highest point is unnamed and has a radio tower on its summit. It can be reached by several of the dirt roads that are located in the mountains. A better route up the mountain goes up the west face from directly Hansel Valley. The Hansel Mountains were named after Samuel J. Hensley but his named was spelled incorrectly on maps. He is known for finding an alternative northern route known as the Salt Lake Cutoff to the California Trail. The highest mountain in Idaho is Peak 6,986.
Bull Mountain summit in the Raft River Mountains |
Raft River Mountains
Bull Mountain - (9,920 feet)
The Raft River Mountains are located in the northwest corner of Utah not far from the Idaho border. It is a small mountain range that goes in an east to west direction. The area is about twenty five miles long by five miles wide. The name of the range comes from the Raft River.
This river starts in northern Utah and flows north to join the Snake River near the Albion Range in Idaho near the City of Rocks. The river was named after a crossing of the Oregon Trail where pioneers built rafts out of whatever was available to aid in crossing the river. Today, the river is dry for much of the year.
The highest peak in the range is Bull Mountain. It is probably the most climbed peak in this part of Utah because it is the highpoint of Box Elder County. The mountain has a large and flat plateau on its summit. The Bull Flat trail enters from the north. From the end of the campground, the trail wanders through the forest with lots of aspens and alders, and up to Bull Canyon. After about one mile, a side trail leads off to Bull Flat. Stay on the main trail which is the Lake Fork Trail up toward Bull Lake. This lake is located in a surprisingly pretty cirque beneath sheer cliffs. To the west of the lake a faint path leads along a rocky slope to the summit of Bull Mountain.
A dirt road also goes to the top of the plateau near the summit. This is definitely a 4-wheel drive road. Since this is a remote area, it is a good idea to make sure you have a spare tire and the necessary equipment if your vehicle breaks down. The long summit ridge of rolling grassland provides views across the desert to the Great Salt Lake and on to peaks of Utah, Nevada, and Idaho. Other mountains include Dunn BM, George Peak, and Crystal Peak. The Bally Mountains are small sub-range of the Raft River Mountains to the northwest. These mountains are around 7,500 feet in elevation.
The best place to camp is at Clear Creek Campground on the northeast side of Bull Mountain. This is where the standard hiking route up the mountain begins. There are no fees and sites are available on a first come, first served basis. There are also plenty of primitive places to camp along the road. It is usually never crowded unless you go on a holiday weekend. The Raft River Mountains are west of the small town of Strevell. Gas and other supplies can be bought in the nearest town.
Wellsville Mountains above Cache Valley |
Crawford Mountains
Rex Peak - (7,996 feet)
The Crawford Mountains are located near the Utah and Wyoming border by the city of Randolph. The mountains rise abruptly out of the valley forming a steep escarpment on the west side of the range. The range runs in a northeast to southwest direction. It is a popular place for paragliding. The Crawford Mountains were mined extensively from 1902 through 1972 utilizing both underground and surface mining techniques. The primary method for extracting the phosphate ore was stope mining.
The highest mountain in the range is Rex Peak. It is one of the few named peaks in the range. The mountain is surrounded by dirt roads that were used to mine phosphate. Evidence of mining activity can still be seen today along many of the canyons in the range. The Crawford Fault is located along the western base of the Crawford Mountains and in the Bear River flood plain. The central part of the fault shows evidence for late Pleistocene activity. The Crawford Uplift is the result of two parallel fault systems. The east bounding fault is expressed as an eroded mountain front that is deeply incised by drainages. The younger west bounding fault is expressed as a steep mountain front that rises abruptly from the Bear River Valley.
The flat, grassy Bear River Valley around Randolph conceals its elevation at 6,280 feet above sea level. The Bear River loops its way lazily past a short distance to the east of town, on its way from the 13,000 foot peaks of the Uinta Mountains to the south which can be seen in the distance, to the Great Salt Lake. Beyond the river, the valley abruptly ends as the face of the Crawford Mountains rise to nearly 8,000 feet. To the west of town, sagebrush-covered hills rise gradually towards the peaks of the Wasatch Mountains in the distance. Two creeks, Big Creek and Little Creek, flow out of canyons at the northwest and southwest corners of Randolph.
This area is known for its cold temperatures. The coldest temperature ever recorded in Utah was in Peter Sinks in the Bear River Mountains. The city of Woodruff holds the record in a Utah community for having the coldest temperature at -50. The valley that the city sits in regularly has temperatures below zero during winter. The climate in the area is semi-arid with less than 14 inches of annual precipitation, much of this coming in winter as snowfall. The vegetation is mostly green shrubs and trees that is comprised of sagebrush and rabbitbrush.
On March 14 of 1870, Randolph H. Stewart and other Mormon pioneers arrived at and founded Randolph. Cold winters, on account of the high elevation, made it a struggle to establish the settlement, but they were successful. The summers are pleasant with lots of sunshine and blue skies. Ranching is the major occupation today, as it always was. The city of Randolph was named after Randolph H. Stewart and is the largest city near the range. Woodruff is the smaller town located south of the city of Randolph. Woodruff Creek flows through a wide, flat canyon out of the mountains to the west and through the middle of the town. The valley is green with grass and even swampy in places, while the hills can look pretty dry at times. Woodruff was settled in 1870 by a group of Mormon pioneers from Bountiful, Utah. They named it after Wilford Woodruff, president of the LDS Church at the time, who was a frequent visitor to the area.
Mount Ogden view north in the Northern Wasatch Mountains |
Promontory Mountains
Messix Peak - (7,372 feet)
The Promontory Mountains are a long mountainous peninsula located at the northern end of the Great Salt Lake. The range was named for the large promontory cape projecting south into the Great Salt Lake. There is also a Northern Utah weather station on the nearby hill. Native Americans were the first people to live in the area. Many artifacts indicate that many of them wintered along the lake shore and mountains. Caves show inhabitance and many arrowheads of various sizes have been found. Buffalo roamed the area during this time and also when the early Mormon pioneers arrived.
The highest mountain in the range is Messix Peak. I have made an attempt to climb the mountain but found no public access. Several ranchers live near the eastern and western side of the mountain and there are fences with No Trespassing signs posted everywhere. Maybe someone else will be able to find a route up the mountain that doesn’t go through private land. I was there on a Sunday and didn’t see anyone else around but I just didn’t feel right about walking on somebody’s property without permission. It looks like a really interesting mountain that is similar to Frary Peak but with more elevation gain. Other mountains include Lead Mountain on the south end and Mount Tarpey on the west side of the range.
The main attraction in the area is Golden Spike National Historical Site. The small settlement of Promontory was an early construction camp. It was a typical camp used by workers until it was decided that it would become the meeting place for the two railroads. There are several historic markers that tell of the significance of this. The status of the town varied from complete abandonment, to cattle town, to a national historic site under the National Park Service. This is where the Central Pacific Railroad from the east and the Union Pacific Railroad from the west met on May 10, 1869. They drove four symbolic spikes, two of which were gold, celebrating the completion of the first transcontinental railroad.
The Spiral Jetty is something to see if you are going to the Promontory Mountains. It is a 1,500 foot long and 15 foot wide counterclockwise coil jutting from the northeastern shore of the Great Salt Lake at Rozel Point. It was built in 1970 by Robert Smithson. At the time of its construction, the water level of the lake was unusually low because of a drought. Within a few years, the water level returned to normal and submerged the jetty for the next three decades. The jetty re-emerged and exposed the black basalt rock layer on top. The lake level rose again during the spring of 2005 due to a near record-setting snow pack in the mountains and partially submerged the Jetty again. The level of the water fluctuates every year but I was able to walk on top of the jetty in November 2004.
Frary Peak on Antelope Island |
Antelope Island
Frary Peak - (6,596 feet)
Antelope Island is the largest and most accessible island in the Great Salt Lake. There is a seven mile long causeway that connects it with the mainland near the city of Syracuse. The island occupies an area of 28,022 acres and lies entirely within Davis County.
Antelope Island got its name in 1845 after a successful antelope hunt by John C. Fremont and Kit Carson. Fremont wrote: "On the island we found grass and water and several bands of antelope. Some of these were killed, and in memory of the grateful supply of food they furnished, I gave their name to the island."
The highest mountain on the island is Frary Peak. It rises for over 2,500 feet above the Great Salt Lake. It is a unique experience to be able to climb a mountain surrounded by water on all sides. A maintained trail goes all the way to the top. There is a great view of the Wasatch Range from the summit. They are very strict about people not hiking off-trail in order to reduce erosion. You must also be done with your hike before dark because the entrance to the island is gated. Other mountains include Dooley Knob, Beacon Knob, and Elephant Head.
Bison were introduced to the island in 1893, and now there are approximately 600 of them. They are managed by the Utah Division of Parks and Recreation. Visitors are welcome at the island's bison corral and management facilities. During the annual bison roundup each fall, visitors can watch a working bison ranch in action as the animals are herded, branded, inoculated and released. After reading the comments from people who have climbed Frary Peak, you will notice that many of them have had encounters with bison. I am no exception and came to within a hundred feet of one bison on the trail.
The island also has millions of waterfowl because of the extensive marshlands around the Great Salt Lake. It is visited by numerous migrating birds, and inhabited by those who stay around during winter in Utah instead of flying elsewhere. There are healthy populations of pronghorn antelope for which the island was named. Antelope were reintroduced in 1993 and can be viewed from various lookout points. Other animals include deer, elk, bighorn sheep, bobcats, and coyotes. If you camp on the island, expect to hear coyotes at night.
Antelope Island State Park is located on the northern portion of the island. It was established in 1981 as part of the Utah State Parks System. The island's shore is relatively flat with beaches and plains to the base of the ridges. The steep mountains are visible from most of the northern Wasatch Front. The causeway was once submerged due to record high lake levels for a decade, making it accessible only by boat. The lake receded in July 1993. Antelope Island was then reopened to visitors, complete with a visitor's center, rest rooms and showers, RV and primitive camping, a marina, and group picnicking facilities.
Buffalo below Frary Peak on Antelope Island |
Stansbury Island
Castle Rock - (6,647 feet)
Stansbury Island is the second largest island in the Great Salt Lake. It is located at the southern end of the lake. The water level determines if it is an island but during low water periods it has been a peninsula. It is now connected to the mainland by a nice gravel road and is surrounded on the west and south by evaporation ponds. The island is approximately 11.5 miles long and 4.5 miles wide, and covers about 22,314 acres. The Great Salt Lake was officially surveyed in 1850 by Howard Stansbury, for whom the island was named.
The highest peak on the island is Castle Rock. It rises over 2,500 feet above the lake. Even though the range is low in elevation, it is very rugged. The rock is made of sharp layers of quartzite. The scrambling on the ridgeline is very enjoyable. From the summit you can see the Great Salt Lake, Antelope Island, Promontory Point, the Oquirrh Mountains, and Wasatch Mountains. The best hike may be to do a traverse of the entire ridge. This would take all day for most people as progress is especially slow in this terrain.
A popular mountain biking trail is near the central part of the island. The trail is about 10 miles long. A single track takes you up over the ridgeline, where there are steep switch-backs, and most riders walk their bikes in some spots. After crossing a mountain, the trail drops down into a valley and then joins a dirt road on the east side. Riders usually follow dirt roads back around the island back to the trailhead. The best time to be on the island is late in the evening when the sun is setting on the Great Salt Lake. The place is also popular with target shooters and you are sure to hear gunshots. Today the island is used as winter range for cattle, on both private ranches and BLM ground. Unlike Antelope Island, there are no developed camping facilities on the island.
Much of the island is public land, managed by BLM, and is open to people. Some of the west side is privately owned and also a section on the east side. As a result, the public has easy access to the south half of the island, but the sandy beaches and coves on the north end are accessible only by boat, or by hiking along the ridge in the center of the island. Ancient Indian sites have been found on the island. Petroglyphs have been carved into basalt boulders and are found in several locations. Unfortunately, many of these rocks have been taken home by people and only a few are left. The remains of rock shelters can also be seen but are difficult to find.
Deseret Peak seen from the north ridge of Castle Rock on Stansbury Island |
Newfoundland Mountains
Desert Peak - (7,005 feet)
This is one of the most remote mountain ranges in Northern Utah. The area is about 15 miles long and 4 miles wide. The range is shaped like a sea horse and located west of the Great Salt Lake. The mountains run north to south and rise for over 2,700 feet above the valley. It is surrounded by the Great Salt Lake Desert mud flats. Some of the rock walls and boulders have odd erosional features with large huecos and arches. The vegetation in the mountains is sparse with juniper, sagebrush, and grass.
The hardest thing about the Newfoundland Mountains may be just getting there. Given better vehicle access, this might be a well traveled place for climbers but there are few people. Access is limited to an easily-missed entry point from the railroad's right of way at the north end of the range or from the southeast from Lakeside. Then there is a long drive over miles of dirt roads. In this part of Utah, it is a good idea to go prepared including having a spare tire just in case of an emergency.
The highest mountain in the range is Desert Peak. There is little water and the area is very dry. This is how the mountain received its name. It is a rugged peak with steep granite and quartz monzonite cliffs. There are no trails in the range so you can pretty much hike wherever you like. From the summit, you can see the Cedar Mountains to the south and Pilot Range to the west. They are over 30 miles away and the view gives a feeling of isolation. There are no other named peaks but the entire ridgeline can be traversed. The southern part of the range is located on the Hill Air Force Range Military Area.
As the mining boom of the American West took place, people moved from where they lived to even the most open and unforgiving places in the West. The Newfoundland Mountains were no exception. Despite the remote location, inhospitable topography, dry, salt-laden wind, and scant wildlife, people came. They lived here under the hottest and harsh of conditions. But the list of reasons to visit the Newfoundland Mountain Range today is very compelling. The range has been explored for gold, silver, lead, and copper. The Desert Flower Mine was mined for tungsten until the 1950’s. Mining in the range has ended but remains can still be found. Livestock are in the area on a seasonal basis and recreational use such as hiking and camping is still low.
The Newfoundland Mountains seen from the Silver Island Mountains |
Silver Island Mountains
 Lamus Peak and Jenkins Peak from the west
Silver Island Mountains - (7,563 feet)
The Silver Island Mountains is located near the Nevada-Utah border northeast of Wendover. This range is geologically impressive with several different rock layers exposed in a colorful arrangement. The mountains are 32 miles in length and run in a northeast to southwest direction. It is on the west side of the arid and barren Great Salt Lake desert. The mountain range is called an island because it is surrounded by the salt and mud flats of the ancient Lake Bonneville which is now dry. The terrain has steep washes, canyons, and mountains.
 Silver Island Mountains and snow covered Pilot Peak
The highest mountain in the range is Graham Peak, 7,563 feet. It is located near the northern side of the range. There are eight named summits and several unnamed points in range that are also worth climbing. They include Cobb Peak, Jenkins Peak, Campbell Peak, Lamus Peak, Rishel Peak, Tetzlaff Peak, Leppy Peak, Volcano Peak, and Crater Island. The best time to climb is during spring and fall. Summer is usually too hot and unpleasant to climb anything here. Winter is also a good time to visit but only when the roads are dry.
The Silver Island Mountains and Pilot Range were important landmarks to the early pioneers. On the northeast part of the range is Donnor Canyon which was named after the ill fated Donnor-Reed party. They crossed the harsh Salt Lake desert just north of the Hastings Cutoff Trail. The area was a major route used by people trying to make their way to California. Mining was also and important resource in the range. The area is now a favorite place for rock hounds. There are several caves that were used by Native Americans. Excavations at nearby Danger Cave have proven occupation of the area as early as 8300 BC. The first recorded crossing of the desert was made in 1845 by Captain John C. Fremont's survey party, with scouts Kit Carson and Joe Walker.
The Silver Island Mountains Backcountry Byway is 54 miles long. The drive should take about 2 to 3 hours at a leisurely pace. It loops around the base of the range of jagged volcanic peaks. Some of the mountains bear names of land-speed legends of the Bonneville Salt Flats. They include W.D. Rishel, Ab Jenkins, John Cobb, Sir Malcolm Campbell and “Terrible” Teddy Tetzlaff. The Bonneville Salt Flats are the flattest place in the U.S. and is a very photogenic environment. It is a nice side trip off I-80 and is very beautiful later in the day. There are spur roads from the main loop that go into Jenkins, Cave, Silver Island, and Donner Canyons. From these side roads hikers can access ridges that lead up the main peaks.
The Bonneville Salt Flats are located over an area of 30,000 acres. It is administered by the Bureau of Land Management and is located along I-80 east of the Silver Island Range. The area is named in honor of Captain B.L.E. Bonneville, whose expeditions in the 1830's proved the area was part of an ancient basin. The salt flats potential for racing was first recognized in 1896 by W.D. Rishel. He was looking for a bicycle race course from New York to San Francisco. Daredevils started trying automobile speed record on the flats. By 1949, the raceway on the Bonneville Salt Flats was the standard course for world land speed records. On this natural race course the 300, 400, 500, and 600 mile per hour land speed barriers were broken.
Silver Island Mountains seen from Pilot Peak to the west |
Cedar Mountains  Cedar Peak seen from the east in Skull Valley
Cedar Peak - (7,712 feet)
 Cedar Mountains view toward Deseret Peak
The Cedar Mountains are located in northwestern Utah and are just south of Interstate 80. Access to the range is relatively easy but few people seem to know about this area. The Cedar Mountains runs in a north to south direction for approximately 30 miles. They are located southeast of the Grassy Mountains and southwest of the Lakeside Mountains. Skull Valley Indian Reservation is located on the east side of the Cedar Mountains separating it from the Stansbury Mountains. The vegetation on the upper elevations of the range is dominated by junipers. They were referred to as "cedars" by early pioneers and that is where the mountains received their name.
The highest mountain in the range is Cedar Peak which is 7,712 feet in elevation. It is unofficially named and labeled by its summit marker. The easiest route to access these mountains is located on the northwest side of the range. A faint trail can be seen as it goes south along the main ridgeline. Much of the route consists of fun and mellow hiking. Another named mountain is Tabbys Peak which is 6,921 feet in elevation. It is located south of Cedar Mountain and north of Rydalch Pass. Farther south along the range is Six Horse Pass which is north of Rock Peak, 6,802 feet. Then the range starts heading southeast until it gets to White Rock and lower elevation hills.
The Cedar Mountains Wilderness lies on the eastern edge of the Great Salt Lake Desert and contains 50,500 acres of land. It is one of the newest wilderness areas in the United States. The area is an excellent example of the unique basin and range topography featuring pinon and juniper covered mountain peaks rising to over 7,000 feet in elevation. The foothill and valley regions include mixed desert shrubs and sagebrush. Cheatgrass is prevalent over large areas burned by fires. The remains of the Aragonite mining camp can also be found in the foothills.
The range is home to mule deer, pronghorn antelope, coyote, bobcats, bats, golden eagles, red-tailed hawks, ravens, reptiles, and mountain lions. The Cedar Mountain Wilderness includes more than half of the 180,000 acres of the Cedar Mountain Herd Management Area, where feral horses have grazed since they were introduced in the late 1800s. It is estimated that over 200 horses live seasonally in the range. About 20 stay throughout the summer and a herd can often be seen in the southern end of the wilderness area. The Bureau of Land Management fills watering troughs for the horses when springs dry up in the summer. This artificial water supply benefits other wildlife species such as pronghorn antelope.
The Cedar Mountains are located beneath the protected military airspace of the Utah Test and Training Range (UTTR). The Goshute Indian Reservation lies near the southern portion of the UTTR. A controversial proposal to ship nuclear waste to a dumpsite on the Reservation created the momentum to designate the Cedar Mountains as a wilderness area in large part because the designation would help block railway access to the proposed nuclear waste dump and therefore allow the Air Force to continue to use the UTTR airspace. Members of the Utah congressional delegation and the military were concerned that if the nuclear waste facility was to be built that the Air Force would have to curtail operations in the southern portion of the UTTR for safety reasons.
Oquirrh Mountains seen from the Stansbury Mountains |
Stansbury Mountains
The Stansbury Mountains are the premier mountain range in northwestern Utah. The range is located east of the Cedar Mountains and west of the Oquirrh Mountains. The mountains rise to elevations of over 11,000 feet. They are very prominent due to their location above the valley near the cities of Tooele and Grantsville. During much of the year, you can see these mountains in the distance from the Wasatch Front, especially in winter when they are covered in snow. The range runs in a north to south direction for approximately 40 miles. On the west side of the range is Skull Valley, to the north is I-80 and the Great Salt Lake, to the east is Tooele Valley, and to the southeast is Rush Valley.
The Stansbury Mountains were named after Captain Howard Stansbury. He was an early surveyor in Utah. Stansbury Island to the south was also named after him. He was sent to survey the Great Salt Lake area in 1850. Tooele is the county's largest city, and took its name from the valley, which Captain Howard Stansbury spelled "tuilla" on his surveying maps in 1849-50. The word Deseret is often used to mean the state of Utah. When the Mormons first came to the territory, they named the area The State of Deseret, a reference to the honey bee in The Book of Mormon. The beehive is the centerpiece of the Utah Great Seal and the Utah State Flag.
North Stansbury Mountains -- Onaqui BM - (9,143 feet)
The Northern Stansbury Mountains are located in a wilderness study area. It contains 10,480 acres of land. The entire wilderness area is 6 miles long and 3 miles wide so almost everything can be climbed in a one day although the terrain is quite rugged. There are no maintained trails in this area and hiking possibilities are open to anyone willing to explore these mountains. There are a few things that distinguish the North Stansbury Mountains from the Deseret Peak Wilderness to the south. The first is that these peaks are lower in elevation. The second is that this is a dry mountain range and you will need to carry all water.
The 9,143 foot high point of the North Stansbury Mountains is unnamed and labeled as Onaqui BM. It resembles Mount Olympus in the Central Wasatch Mountains. This is because it has tilted quartzite rock slabs and a lot of fun moderate scrambling. There is a great view of the surrounding area from the summit. The climb is mostly off-trail hiking with elevation gain and loss on steep slopes. The best route for climbing Onaqui BM is from Muskrat Canyon to the northwest. This would be a 10 mile day hike. Other routes include Mack Canyon and West Canyon from the east.
Deseret Peak Wilderness -- Deseret Peak - (11,031 feet)
This area is where the majority of the people come when they visit the Stansbury Mountains. The Deseret Peak Wilderness is located in northwestern Utah, west of the cities of Tooele and Grantsville. The Wilderness was established by Congress in 1984 with passage of the Utah Wilderness Act. It is entirely located in the Wasatch-Cache National Forest. The Deseret Peak Wilderness consists of approximately 25,500 acres and is generally bounded on the north by the Pass Canyon drainage, on the south by Vickory Mountain, on the west by Skull Valley and on the east by the Mack Canyon-Big Hollow Trail.
Deseret Peak is the highest summit in the Stansbury Mountains. It is an alpine mountain in a desert oasis and rises to an elevation of 11,031 feet. These mountains are almost the only Great Basin Range in Utah with a good system of hiking trails. It is clearly visible for many miles around, particularly from across the Great Salt Lake to the north and the desert valleys to the west. It has impressive cliffs that drop precipitously down toward South Willow Canyon. While the Wasatch Range is crowded with hikers on the weekends, you can expect more solitude here. Vickory Mountain is located south of Deseret Peak and is one of the few named peaks in this area.
Onaqui Mountains -- Stookey Peak - (9,020 feet)
The Onaqui Mountains form the southern section of the Stansbury Mountains. On the early maps, this range was named Onaqui Mountain. The first transcontinental survey placed a survey mark designated Onaqui on a prominent high point on the ridge in 1887. Five years later they decided to place an additional benchmark at the highest point of the range, and named this second survey mark "Deseret". As it often happens, benchmark designation on the topo was co-opted as the name of the peak. The name "Onaqui" is still used both for the Northern prominence of the Stansburies and for the Southern part of the range.
The highest point in the Onaqui Mountains is Stookey Peak which is 9,020 feet in elevation. Stookey Peak has 2500 feet of prominence over the surrounding area. This is the main reason why the mountain is climbed. The Onaqui Herd Management Area (HMA) is located 40 miles southwest of Salt Lake City. The HMA extends from Johnson's Pass south to Lookout Pass. Wild horses can be seen on the bench and flat areas along the east and west side of the mountain range. The HMA contains 43,880 acres of Federal, State, and privately owned land. Wild horses have occupied the Onaqui Mountains since the late 1800s.
Oquirrh Mountains seen from Strawberry Peak |
Oquirrh Mountains  Settlement Canyon and the Oquirrh Mountains
The Oquirrh Mountains are located south of the Great Salt Lake and west of I-15. They are seen by everyone that drives through northern Utah but are unknown to most people. The range runs north to south for approximately 30 miles separating Salt Lake Valley from Tooele Valley. The mountains rise to elevations higher than 10,500 feet and receive large amounts of snow in winter. This is due to the lake effect which tends to hold storms over the lake and mountains for long periods of time. The name Oquirrh is pronounced as O-Ker. It is a Goshute Indian word meaning "Wooded Mountain.” It is also a Ute Indian word that translates to "The Shining Mountains" or "Glowing Mountains". This is because of their appearance when the sunlight shines on the mountains in the winter.
The mountains have been mined for gold, silver, lead, and most famously for copper, as home of the world-class copper porphyry deposit at Bingham Canyon Mine, one of the world's largest open pit mines. From Salt Lake City, the view of the mountain range is dominated by the displaced rock material which are known as "spoils" dug from the Kennecott mine. At the north end of the range is Kennecott's smelter complex which refines ore concentrates from the mine into useful metals. Dark colored tailings from past metal refining at the complex can be observed from the adjacent freeway, I-80. The value of the minerals taken from the range has been estimated to far exceed the combined value of those taken in the California, Nevada, and Klondike gold and silver rushes.
The Oquirrh Mountains are often overlooked by hikers. Much of this is because of the close proximately to the Wasatch Range and Cottonwood Canyons which are more popular. Access to the area is somewhat complicated due to the large amounts of privately owned land in the area. It is a good idea to check road access beforehand to make sure you don’t travel on private property. Kennecott owns 93,000 acres of land along the Oquirrh Mountains and foothills. About 80,000 of these acres are located on Salt Lake Valley’s west bench. At the north end of the range are Kessler Peak and Farnsworth Peak which both have radio towers on their summits. Nelson Peak, Barneys Peak, and Clipper Peak are located near of Bingham Canyon mine.
Flat Top Mountain - (10,620 feet)
Flat Top Mountain is the highest peak in the Oquirrh Mountains. It is also one Ultra Prominence Peaks in the United States with over 5,000 feet of prominence. The name of the mountain is one reason why it probably isn’t climbed much. The summit is located on a long ridge but is not really flat at all. It is a great mountain to climb and provides an outstanding view of the area including the Wasatch Range across the valley. The best route for climbing the mountain is from the town of Ophir on the west side of the range. There are no private property issues with this route. You can also climb Lewiston Peak while you are there since it is located on the ridge southwest of Flat Top Mountain.
Lowe Peak - (10,589 feet)
Lowe Peak is the second highest peak in the Oquirrh Mountains. It is located approximately 3.5 miles to the north of Flat Top Mountain. They are connected by a long ridgeline. Lowe Peak has a more sharp and pointed appearance than Flat Top Mountain. The mountain is usually covered in snow into early summer. The peak lies on the border of Utah County to the east and Tooele County to the west. Ophir Canyon is the standard route to the summit. It is a relatively short and easy approach route to reach Lowe Peak. It is also located on public BLM land, and avoids potential problems of passing over privately owned land which exists on other routes from the east.
Frary Peak view south toward the Oquirrh Mountains |
Other Mountain Ranges
Anyone is welcome to add photos for the following mountain ranges. Many of them are far away from where most people live. Here are some brief descriptions below. They all seem to be interesting and fun places to explore. I will try to climb some of these mountains this year and provide more information.
Grouse Creek Mountains
Red Butte - (9,046 feet)
The Grouse Creek Mountains are located in northwestern Utah and are just southwest of the Raft River Mountains. The town of Grouse Creek is a small ranching community located below the range. You can get there from Highway 30, and then about twenty miles of gravel road. Another access road is from the Tremonton and Brigham City area to Grouse Creek is 120 miles with 60 miles of gravel road over the Grouse Creek Mountains. This road can be traversed in the late spring, summer and early fall. The highest mountain in the range is Red Butte which is over 9,000 feet in elevation. Nearby Devils Playground is something to check out.
Goose Creek Mountains
Goose Creek Mountains Highpoint - (8,684 feet)
The Goose Creek Mountains are located northwest of the Grouse Creek Mountains and west of the Raft River Mountains. The range is in Nevada, Utah, and southern Idaho. It is a complicated mountain range that has ridges going in several directions. One part of the range is known as Deadline Ridge. It runs 25 miles north to south from Grand View Peak down into Utah. Another part of the range runs 20 miles east to west. The range has a sedimentary rock layer covered by thick deposits of rhyolite. Other mountains include Twin Peaks, North Red Butte, Meadow Creek Butte, Dry Canyon Mountain, and Pigeon Mountain.
Hogup Mountains
Tangent Peak - (7,047 feet)
The Hogup Mountains are located at the northwest corner of the Great Salt Lake. They provide some of the best views of the northern end of the lake. The highest mountain in the range is Tangent Peak, 7,047 feet. Other mountains include Scorpio Peak, 6,560 feet at the south end and Shelter Mountain, 5,964 feet on the west side. Hogup Cave was a major discovery in Great Basin Archaeology. It was similar to Danger Cave in the Silver Island Range, although they are approximately sixty miles apart, the caves are archaeologically related. Hogup Cave contained data from approximately 6350 BC. Both caves showed the life styles of successive people who, over thousands of years, adapted to changes in the desert environment.
Lakeside Mountains
Craner Peak - (6,625 feet)
The Lakeside Mountains are just north of I-80. They are northeast of the Cedar Mountains and east of the Grassy Mountains. The range is divided into three sections. The highest mountain in the range is Craner Peak, which is located on the south end. It is best climbed from Craner Canyon on the east side. The middle section is a long ridge with the name Sally Mountain. The northernmost section is labeled as Death Ridge with Lakeside Butte above the road. Other mountains include Table Mountain, Black Mountain, and Jedediah Mountain.
Grassy Mountains
Grassy Mountains Highpoint - (6,596 feet)
The Grassy Mountains are located west of the Lakeside Mountains separated by Puddle Valley. The Great Salt Lake mud flats separate the range from the Newfoundland Mountains to the northwest. The southern end of the range has several dirt roads that go north from Ripple Valley toward the highpoint of the range and to points farther west. The roads require a 4-wheel drive vehicle to drive very far. The highest peak in the range is labeled as Grassy, 6,596 feet. The range is small and covers an area that is 12 miles long and 4 miles wide.
Stansbury Island seen from Frary Peak on Antelope Island |
Peak Lists
Utah County Highpoints List
Bull Mountain: Raft River Mountains - Box Elder County
Bridger Peak: Bear River Range - Rich County
Naomi Peak: Bear River Range - Cache County
Willard Peak: Northern Wasatch – Weber County
Thurston Peak: Northern Wasatch - Davis and Morgan Counties
Deseret Peak: Stansbury Mountains - Tooele County
Utah Prominence Peaks List
Deseret Peak – 4th highest prominence
Flat Top Mountain – 6th highest prominence
Mount Ogden – 17th highest prominence
Bull Mountain – 19th highest prominence
Box Elder Peak – 27th highest prominence
Willard Peak – 33rd highest prominence
Naomi Peak – 34th highest prominence
Graham Peak – 37th highest prominence
Logan Peak – 39th highest prominence
Cedar Peak - 45th highest prominence
Desert Peak – 46th highest prominence
Lewis Peak: Wanship BM – 47th highest prominence
Thurston Peak – 51st highest prominence
Stookey Peak - 52nd highest prominence
Messix Peak – 54th highest prominence
Castle Rock – 55th highest prominence
Frary Peak – 58th highest prominence
Gunsight Peak – 59th highest prominence
Tangent Peak – 63rd highest prominence
James Peak – 66th highest prominence
Durst Mountain – 78th highest prominence
Craner Peak – 81st highest prominence
Goose Creek Mountains Highpoint – 84th highest prominence
Grassy Mountains Highpoint - 85th highest prominence
Sunset over the Great Salt Lake |
The Great Salt Lake
In 1846, the Mormons left Nauvoo, Illinois because of religious persecution and went searching for a place where they could practice their religion freely. They traveled across Iowa and went to Winter Quarters, Nebraska. On April 5, 1847, an advance company led by Brigham Young set off from Winter Quarters on their trek across the country, 1,040 miles to a new home. Salt Lake City was founded in 1847, on July the 24th, by the Mormons. When they arrived their religious prophet Brigham Young reportedly stated, "This is the place." At first it was called the State of Deseret referring to the honey bee in the Book of Mormon. Then they named it the Great Salt Lake City after the salty inland lake that was located in the desert to the west. In 1868, the word "Great" was later dropped from the name.
Many of the mountain ranges in Northern Utah are located around the Great Salt Lake. Anyone who has seen a map of Utah will notice the lake that dominates this area. It is the largest lake in the Western United States. The present lake is about 75 miles long and 35 miles wide, with a maximum depth of 33 feet. After a series of wet years, the lake's surface area may be much larger but it will be only a little bit deeper. Great Salt Lake is salty because it does not have an outlet. Much of the precipitation that falls each year evaporates leaving salt behind. The salt content varies depending on the water level, but percentages of salt are usually around 14% to as high as 27%, eight times higher than the ocean. This gives the water buoyancy and swimmers say they can float without sinking.
The Great Salt Lake is what remains of prehistoric Lake Bonneville, which covered some 20,000 square miles of land in what is now Utah, Nevada, and Idaho about 10,000 to 30,000 years ago. The most obvious reminders of Lake Bonneville are the ancient terraces etched into the landscape along the lakes former shorelines. The terraces were eroded by wave action and are relatively flat areas that follow a contour line. After the ice age the earth's climate became drier and Lake Bonneville gradually receded to form Great Salt Lake. The Bonneville shoreline trail travels along the mountain sides of much of the Wasatch Front. Over time, the Great Salt Lake has varied from elevations of 4,192 to 4,212 feet above sea level.
The Great Salt Lake and its islands provide outstanding scenery and recreational opportunities in Northern Utah. There are eight named islands in the lake that have never been totally submerged during historic time. All have been connected to the mainland by exposed shoals during periods of low water. The largest islands in the Great Salt Lake include Antelope, Stansbury, Fremont, Carrington, Dolphin, Cub, Badger, Strongs Knob, Gunnison, and Goose Island. Antelope and Stansbury are the most developed islands. The shoreline of these islands have formed extensive wetlands making the Great Salt Lake one of the most important places for migrating and nesting birds. The high salinity of the lake makes it habitable for only a few species, including brine shrimp and several forms of algae.
Sunset over the Great Salt Lake |
When to Climb
Summer is the typical season for most people to climb in the Northern Wasatch Mountains. The mountains can be climbed all year and recieve just as much snow as other areas in the Wasatch. Considerable snow will fall from December through March. The mountain ranges in the northwest corner of the state, such as the Raft River Mountains, Grouse Creek Mountains, and Goose Creek Mountains will also have snow well into late spring and early summer.
The lower elevation Desert Ranges are best climbed in fall, winter and spring. During winter, expect some snow after recent storms and cold spells. Dirt roads may be impassible if they are wet. Try to wait at least two weeks before traveling to more remote areas. During the summer months expect daytime highs in the 90-100's. This is unbearable for most people so summer should be avoided.
Nice weather usually last from July through mid-September. In the mountains, summer temperatures can reach 70-80 degrees in the daytime and 30 degrees at night. The weather should be cooler at the higher elevations. In the mountains weather can change at any time and afternoon thundershowers can be expected. In winter, temperatures will be around 30-40 degrees and much colder in the higher elevations. Be prepared with full winter gear if you plan on climbing any mountains in winter.
View from the summit of Volcano Peak in the Silver Island Mountains |
Recreation Areas
Golden Spike National Historical Site
Golden Spike is located northwest of the Promontory Mountains. The small settlement of Promontory was an early construction camp. It was a typical camp used by workers until it was decided that it would become the meeting place for the two railroads. There are several historic markers that tell of the significance of this. The status of the town varied from complete abandonment, to cattle town, to a national historic site under the National Park Service. This is where the Central Pacific Railroad from the east and the Union Pacific Railroad from the west met on May 10, 1869. They drove four symbolic spikes, two of which were gold, celebrating the completion of the first transcontinental railroad.
Antelope Island State Park
Antelope Island State Park is located on the northern portion of the island. It was established in 1981 as part of the Utah State Parks System. The island's shore is relatively flat with beaches and plains to the base of the ridges. The steep mountains are visible from most of the northern Wasatch Front. The causeway was once submerged due to record high lake levels for a decade, making it accessible only by boat. The lake receded in July 1993. Antelope Island was then reopened to visitors, complete with a visitor's center, rest rooms and showers, RV and primitive camping, a marina, and group picnicking facilities.
 Bonneville Salt Flats Sunset
Great Salt Lake State Park
The Great Salt Lake State Park provides recreation for picnicking, boating, and swimming. The marina is located on the south shore of the Great Salt Lake, 16 miles west of Salt Lake City along Interstate 80. A marina with 300 slips is available for year-round boating on the lake that never freezes. The entrance fee is $2 a day. A favorite thing for boaters is to travel to some of the islands in the lake. A favorite spot is Carrington Island. It was used as a gunnery range during WWII. Some of the targets and relics of the war are still on the island. The salty water requires that you flush out your boat engines when you enter the lake and rinse off your boat hull and trailer before you leave.
Bonneville Salt Flats
The Bonneville Salt Flats are located over an area of 30,000 acres. It is administered by the Bureau of Land Management and is located along I-80 east of the Silver Island Range. The area is named in honor of Captain B.L.E. Bonneville, whose expeditions in the 1830's proved the area was part of an ancient basin. The salt flats potential for racing was first recognized in 1896 by W.D. Rishel. He was looking for a bicycle race course from New York to San Francisco. Daredevils started trying automobile speed record on the flats. By 1949, the raceway on the Bonneville Salt Flats was the standard course for world land speed records. On this natural race course the 300, 400, 500, and 600 mile per hour land speed barriers were broken.
Silver Island Mountains |
Books and Maps
There are few books about Northern Utah. Here are a couple that talk about some of the peaks.
Utah Mountaineering Guide
By Michael R. Kelsey. Descriptions are brief but this is the best book available for many of the major mountains in Utah. It includes Bull Mountain, Frary Peak, the Bear River Range, and Northern Wasatch Mountains. There is a map and photo of each peak. He also describes winter routes up many of the mountains.
High In Utah (County Highpoints)
By Michael Weibel. This book has information on climbing all of Utah's county highpoints including Bull Mountain, Naomi Peak, and Willard Peak.
Utah Atlas and Gazetteer
This atlas shows Northern Utah and obscure mountain ranges in the northwestern part of the state.
External Links
Mick’s Mountain Page
This website has trip report and photos for mountains in the Northern Wasatch, and other areas of the Wasatch Mountains.
Newfoundland Mountains
A good trip report on the Newfoundland Mountain Range with several photos.
Silver Island Mountains
Website with photos of many of the mountains in the Silver Island Mountain Range.
Images
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