| Capital Regional District (Victoria, BC) Area/Range |
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| Capital Regional District (Victoria, BC)   | 
| Page Type: Area/Range Location: Vancouver Island/BC, Canada, North America Lat/Lon: 48.45000°N / 123.6°W Activities: Hiking, Scrambling Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter Elevation: 2238 ft / 682 m | Page By: vancouver islander Created/Edited: Sep 13, 2006 / Sep 20, 2009 Object ID: 225767 Hits: 12234 Loading... Page Score: 89.58% - 27 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
The Urban Mountains of the CRD  CRD Summits from Mt Wells  The reverse view looking south towards Mt Wells
Victoria, the capital of British Columbia, Canada, is located at the southern tip of Vancouver Island. The city is grouped together with several other municipalities and together the whole conurbation is known by the rather grand title of the Capital Regional District - or CRD - and is home to almost 350,000 people.
The CRD is surrounded on three sides by water and on the fourth by a series of low mountain ranges up to a height of 600m or so. As a consequence of such convoluted terrain, there are just 3 paved roads out of the city: northeast up the Saanich Peninsula to the BC Ferry terminal at Schwartz Bay, west on highway 14 to the road end at Port Renfrew (and the famous West Coast Trail) and northwest on the Trans Canada highway over Malahat Mountain to the north Island. An even happier consequence of the terrain is the limit the landscape imposes on building. The city is growing but growth has been slowed by the difficulty and expense of installing housing and services in the rugged hinterland. Given such a unique urban environment, and mindful of the mistakes made by Vancouver, local interests have lobbied hard and relatively successfully for the preservation of green space around the city. Some lost battles are apparent, such as the dreadful golf course and sub division on Bear Mountain right opposite Mt Finlayson. By and in large, however, both the province and the CRD have done their civic duty as they should and established a series of parks and protected space around the city that should be the envy of similar sized cities anywhere in the world.
Some of the parks have well developed trails right up to the summits. Others, just 30 minutes or so from the city centre are undeveloped, trackless and one would be well advised not to forget map, compass and GPS when venturing, say, into some areas of the Sooke Hills. Even the developed areas have carefully guarded routes to the summits rarely accessible to visitors without local knowledge.
The hills fall into two main areas divided by the Goldstream River watershed. To the east of Goldstream is the Gowlland range plus the lower hills on the east side of the Saanich Peninsula and to the west the Sooke Hills run up to and beyond the boundaries of the CRD. Both areas were extensively logged at the turn of the century and before but the second growth itself is now mature enough to be a worthy mantle for the lower slopes. Here and there, such as at the base of Mt Finlayson, some old growth has been preserved and is mightily impressive. Higher up the big trees generally give way to native species such as arbutus, hairy manzanita bushes, alder, fir, cedar etc with lots of dense west coast salal in the sunnier spots. Travelling off-trail, the going can be up open slopes one minute and into dense bush the next. It's part of the uniqueness and charm of the area. Rock bluffs are common and present the climber with all the sporty diversion he/she can handle. There are developed rock climbing areas on Mts Wells, McDonald and Sugarloaf as well as others that the local rock jock community keeps to itself. Summits are usually broad granite platforms and almost all offer extensive views of the surrounding hills and across the Strait of Juan de Fuca to the Olympic Mountains of Washington State
The mild marine influenced climate of southern Vancouver Island means that the mountains are accessible year round. This in turn means that they're a tremendous winter training ground. It's as common to see folks toting big packs up Mt Work on a Sunday morning in January as it to see dad and the kids walking up with Fido.
By July the annual summer draught is regularly apparent and everything gets tinder dry. At these times the authorities are on the lookout for anything and anyone that may pose a fire hazard.
Flora
As early as mid-March the first spring flowers appear: camas, shooting stars, ladies slipper, larkspur and many many more. The shows are particularly good on Mt Wells and Mt McDonald and around Holmes Peak and usually peak in late April or early May.
Great Camas |
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Rusty-Haired Saxifrage |
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Meadow Death Camas |
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Menzies Larkspur |
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Ladies Slipper |
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Shooting Star |
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Trillium |
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Pink Trillium |
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Fauna
Tick activity can be unpleasant in the early spring - April and May - so remember to wear long sleeves and pants during these times. Fauna more welcome than ticks are also in abundance everywhere. Black footed deer, native red squirrels, bald eagles (and the occasional golden eagle), humming birds in season; all may be seen. I've even seen feral peacocks on Mt Work! The presence of local ravens, particularly on the thermals above Mt Work and Lone Tree Hill, make visits to these locales worthwhile just to watch their antics.
Black Bear near the Charters River |
There are assuredly wolves, black bear and cougars in the Sooke Hills. I've seen scat from all three species frequently although live sightings this close to the city are a rarity. Two black bear sightings is my total to date.
The compilation that follows is very much a work in progress. I will be adding more detail and new peaks as and when I cover old and new ground alike. Check back every so often, particularly in winter when I'm usually tramping the local hills. In the meantime, if business or pleasure brings you to Victoria and you'd rather be out hiking than traipsing round all the tourist kitsch in town, there should be more than enough here to keep you happy.
Five stemmed arbutus on Bluff Mountain |
Getting ThereVictoria can be reached directly by air from Toronto, Calgary, Vancouver and Seattle.
Several ferry operators offer service. BC Ferries sail hourly from Twassen near Vancouver. Washington State Ferries offer service from Anacortes via San Juan Island to Sidney. Black Ball Ferries run a single ship, The MV Coho, back and forth between Port Angeles and downtown Victoria twice daily in summer and once per day in winter. Clipper Navigation Inc runs a passenger-only fast catamaran service between downtown Seattle and Victoria. Summary of Peaks by Area
1. Sooke Hills area and west of Goldstream| Mountain | Height (metres) | Coordinates | | Bluff Mountain | 534 | N 48° 25.9' W 123° 45.5' | | Peden Ridge | 530 | N 48° 27.2' W 123° 42.7' | | Empress Mountain | 682 | N 48° 27.9' W 123° 40.4' | | Monument Mountain | 463 | N 48° 26.6' W 123° 40.9' | | Sooke Mountain | 524 | N 48° 26.6' W 123° 39.8' | | Ragged Mountain South | 550 | N 48° 25.9' W 123° 38.7' | | Ragged Mountain | 578 | N 48° 26.4' W 123° 38.2' | | Mount Manuel Quimper | 546 | N 48° 25.2' W 123° 39.6' | | Sugarloaf Mountain | 363 | N 48° 24.9' W 123° 36.2' | | Mount Braden | 479 | N 48° 26.8' W 123° 35.9' | | Mount McDonald | 439 | N 48° 26.5' W 123° 34.1' | | Mount Wells | 352 | N 48° 26.3' W 123° 33.4' |
2. Gowlland range and east of Goldstream
| Mountain | Height (metres) | Coordinates | | Mount Finlayson | 419 | N 48° 29.0' W 123° 32.3' | | Holmes Peak | 329 | N 48° 31.0' W 123° 31.8' | | Jocelyn Hill | 434 | N 48° 32.2' W 123° 31.7' | | Lone Tree Hill | 364 | N 48° 31.2' W 123° 30.8' | | Mount Work | 449 | N 48° 31.8' W 123° 28.8' | | Mount Douglas | 213 | N 48° 29.6' W 123° 20.8' | | Mount Newton | 305 | N 48° 36.7' W 123° 26.7' | | Horth Hill | 136 | N 48° 41.0' W 123°25.9' | | Mount Tuam | 606 | N 48° 43.6' W 123° 29.1' |
Individual DescriptionsApproach directions in each case assume the reader starts from Victoria.
Bluff MountainNEW
(Last revision June 2009)
Bluff Mountain is one of the westernmost summits in the CRD, lying just north of the town of Sooke and to the west of the Sooke River. Unlike most of the summits in this area, Bluff and its neighbour, Trap Mountain lie outside the CRD's water catchment area and access is consequently relatively unrestricted. There's a price to pay for this, however, in that there's no trail to the true summit. If you want to get right to the high point it's strictly a bushwhack. Carry a map/compass and/or GPs and know how to use them.
 Empress Mtn from Bluff Mtn  Ragged and Manuel Quimper from Bluff Mtn
Views are very restricted from the summit area although occasional glimpses are possible from odd points along the way if you keep your eyes peeled.
Access is through Scouts Canada's Camp Barnard on Youngs Lake. Formal permission to enter the camp is not normally necessary but, for politeness sake, it would be prudent to call "Willy" on 250 642-5924 or 250 415-1619 and declare your intentions.
To reach Camp Barnard approach on highway 14, the west coast road, via Langford and Metchosin to Sooke. Roughly in the centre of the village find Otter Point Rd and turn right. Drive 5 km to Youngs Lake Road and turn right. Drive through the camp past the reception shed and park in a large gravelled lot on the left side of the road.
From the parking lot walk 300 metres north on the road you entered the camp on and find an open grassy picnic area on the right. Go right to the back of this area and find the (unmarked) Bluff Mountain trailhead at N48 24.605 W123 45.622. Hike the wide well marked trail 30-45 minutes up onto a high open bluff at N48 24.970 W123 45.176 where the trail ends. Prepare to bushwhack from here.
Follow a generally northern course keeping to open areas wherever you find them. A detour around to the west of a swampy pond in the neighbourhood of N48 25.204 W123 45.321 will be required. Although there are some nice open sections, the route is memorable for the most part for the half dozen or so salal and deadfall choked gullies that must be negotiated. The elevation difference between the Scout camp and the summit is only about 450 metres but you'll climb over twice that before you're done. Patience is a virtue on this one!
About 1.5-2 hours from the end of the Scouts' trail you will arrive at a cairned high point at N48 25.836 W123 45.443 and about 520 metres altitude. Walk to the edge of the bluffs just to the east of here to get the only extensive views north and east from this part of the mountain.
Continue NW across one last gully to arrive at the summit cairn in five more minutes. There's a tin can in the cairn but I don't think it's the summit register :) Unfortunately there's not a shred of a view from the summit but limited views north and south can be had from an open bluff a hundred metres to the west.
Alternatively, eschew the Scouts' trail altogether as follows.
Walk 650 metres past the trailhead noted above and find an old grassy road on the right. The road isn't on any maps. Walk 800-900 metres up this road to the neighbourhood of N48 25.024 W123 46.035 and head off NE into the bush. Follow your map and/or GPS directly to the cairn at N48 25.836 W123 45.443. This isn't as bad as it sounds in that, although steep on occasion, there are lots of open phases to enjoy and fewer gully crossings to negotiate compared to the route from the Scouts' trail.
Retrace your steps from either upward choice OR make the trip a loop hike as follows.
From the view bluff 100 metres to the west of the summit make a steep descending traverse SW and find a VERY old road right in the valley bottom. The road is barely discernible in most places and absent in others. Deadfall is everywhere. Thrash your way down the "road" and in about an hour make the welcome discovery that it's the same one you left on your way up the mountain. Walk down the remainder of it and back to your vehicle.
Since there are no trails up Bluff Mountain, I've attached a map/tracklog to help you plan your route. This is meant as a guide only and should not take the place of in situ use of the correct navigational tools.
Peden Ridge
(Last revision April 2008)
At the foot of Peden Bluffs |
 Climbing through Peden Bluffs  Descending through Peden Bluffs  Descending below Peden Bluffs
Approach on highway 14, the west coast road, via Langford and Metchosin to Sooke. Just prior to reaching Sooke village take the marked right turn onto Sooke River Rd at the sign for Sooke Potholes Regional Park. Drive right to the top of the road and park in the last lot. There may be a parking fee from May-October.
At the point you enter this lot on the right and behind the old red hut, is a flagged route leading up through the trees. Take this to arrive in less than 10 minutes at a pipeline. Turn left and walk approx 10 minutes along the pipeline itself to a wooden platform built below the pipeline and accessed by two short wooden ladders. I can only think that this is intended for fishing the creek below. Go just past this point ~20-25 metres and look for another set of flags going up to the right.
Ascend to the ridge top above almost due north on mostly open slopes to the foot of the bluffs. Scramble through the bluffs to the summit on a steep but well flagged route. Just to climbers¡¦ left of the summit is a memorial plaque mounted on a tree to a local climbing club member who passed away on this spot.
A route is possible from the top of the bluffs to the summit of a ~570 metres high point known locally at "Black Bear Mountain" at N 48° 27.99' W 123° 42.86'
Go a few metres east of the large boulder on the summit adorned with lots of cairns and pick up a flagged route heading due north. After ~100 metres the flagging assumes a generally NNW heading, crosses several gullies and arrives in about 50 minutes at a short steep step to the top of Black Bear. At the top of the step is a nice open viewpoint at N 48° 27.91' W123° 42.79'. The summit lies 200 metres to the NNW but is in the middle of a large patch of blown down trees and offers no views.
Descend the way you came up or choose your own line down to the pipeline.
| Panorama taken from just east of the summit of Peden Ridge. From left to right: Empress Mountain, Sooke Mountain, the Ramparts, Ragged Main, Ragged South, Mt Manuel Quimper and the Sooke Basin. Compare this with the reverse panorma taken from the summit of Ragged Mountain South. |
Empress Mountain
(Last revision April 2008)
Empress Mountain from Peden Ridge |
Empress is the highest point in the CRD. The usual route is mostly on old, disused logging roads. Don't think of this is a simple road walk though. It's quite a long way and the roads are little more than rough trails choked with deadfall in many places. At least one river must be crossed and the creek bed has to be used on several occasions to make forward progress. The route is all on private timber company land and, therefore, no maintenance of the route takes place other than by local volunteers. Allow about 6 hours car to car including a half hour for lunch on top.
Approach as for Peden Ridge and set your trip meter to zero as you turn off Highway 14 onto Sooke River Road. At 4.70km look for a crumbling old logging road leading off to the left. It's marked with a redundant sign "No Motorized Vehicles" but there's no indication that this is the way to Empress. Park here by the side of the road. Starting altitude is about 50m.
Go up the old road and in 5 minutes cross the Galloping Goose cycle path. The route now slowly gains 500 metres in altitude over the next 2.5 hours as you negotiate what remains of the road. Some side trails lead off to the left and right but the main through route is largely unmistakable. For the first 30 minutes the road follows Todd Creek and offers easy going. At 40-45 minutes note the wreck of an old red car on the left above the river and shortly thereafter cross Todd Creek. After heavy rain this might have to be waded. At about 90 minutes and at 355m, a well-flagged trail leads off to the right. Your route lies straight ahead. At about 120 minutes and 415m the route reaches a fork. This is the only place where you might go wrong. Look carefully and there is an arrow indicating the correct right fork carved in a tree in this photograph as well as a bit of old flagging a few metres further on. Blow down and deadfall on the next section are particularly bad and will require some patience. Finally at about 150 minutes from the start and at 585m you can see the open, mossy slabs on the left of the road that lead to the top of the mountain. Go through the small break in the trees and onto open hillside. Make your best choice of route north to the summit in about 15 minutes. There is a faint path in places.
The things you find! |
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Negotiating Todd Creek |
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Final leg to the top |
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The summit of Empress is unfortunately crowned with a communications tower but it's easy to ignore. The flat rock platform is quite large, mostly open and consequently offers views in all directions.
Return to the car by reversing the above.
Empress from Ragged South |
Mt Manuel Quimper
(Last revision May 2008)
Manuel Quimper is, perhaps, the easiest hill to access in the Sooke Hills Regional Park Reserve. An easy trail up and plenty of options to make a loop out of the hike make it an increasingly popular destination in the CRD. Allow about 3.5h for the following.
 MQ trail map. Already gone - vandalised!
Walk out of the lot and around the gate barring vehicular access to the gravel road beyond. The road is well maintained and clear of brush. After about 25 minutes note a spur road on the right. This is marked by blazes on several trees. This will be your return route.
At about 35 minutes the road arrives at a fork. Bear right on the main road.
At about 45-50 minutes from the start and at 320m look for an obvious trail on your right. It's located right in the middle of a patch of blown-down but brushed-out alders. Sometimes there are flags in place to indicate that this is the route up Manuel Quimper but mountain bikers keep taking them down. Co-ordinates are N 48.424° and W 123.674°. Head up the trail to the summit in 45-50 minutes from here. The grade is very gentle most of the way and only steepens in the last 10 minutes to the top. The summit is crowned with an old fire watchtower. This is no longer in use but it's in pretty good shape and would make a perfectly adequate emergency shelter.
The summit is fairly heavily forested and offers uninterrupted views only to the south - down to the Sooke Basin and across the Strait of Jan de Fuca to the Olympics. Look around, however, and you'll soon spot Mt McDonald to the east and Empress Mountain to the northwest through the trees.
Make the trip a loop hike as follows. Walk off the summit looking for a path that leads due south. Again, it's not marked but is well traveled and easy to find. Go down steeply for 15 minutes to meet an old logging road. Turn right and walk the road - washed out in quite a few places - to meet the original approach road in about 30 minutes. Check for the blazes on the trees to make sure you're on the right path. Assuming you are, turn left and return to your car.
Mt Manuel Quimper is named after an 18th century Peruvian naval officer in the service of the Spanish crown. He was part of an expedition sent north in 1790 to explore and chart the Pacific Northwest in order to assert Spanish sovereignty in the face of increasing British and Russian incursions. Manuel Quimper is credited with being the first European to see Mount Baker. His eventual namesake mountain, however, turned out to be much more modest.
Ragged Mountain South
(Last revision November 2008)
 Camp Thunderbird trail signpost.  Scrambling through the south bluffs.
 Threatening weather over Manuel Quimper
The easiest approach to the twin summits of Ragged Mountain is via trails from the YMCA Camp Thunderbird at the end of Glintz Lake Road. This probably explains why the south summit is also known locally as Thunderbird Mountain. However, this is privately owned land and access from this (east) side is with the permission of the YMCA. It's not usually given.
The mountain can also be approached from the west after a long hike up Harbour View Road. Readers should be aware, however, that once off the gravel road, the route is quite convoluted with many "sucker" options to both left and right of the correct route. What follows is as accurate as I can make it but I would strongly advise anyone trying this for the first time to go with a knowledgeable local.
Park in the lot at the end of the public section of Harbour View Road and proceed as for Mt Manuel Quimper. Walk the road for 60-70 minutes to a flagged trailhead at N 48° 25.6', W 123° 39.4' and 380 metres altitude. Follow flagging east to a junction at N 48° 25.6', W 123° 39.1' in about 15 minutes. Ragged can be seen through the trees to the left. However, turn right and go down and around the knoll on your left then back up to another critical junction at N 48° 25.5', W 123° 38.7' also in about 15 minutes. Turn left.
The next section has some dense salal in places and little deadfall to negotiate but is well flagged and a use-path can be followed most of the way. If you've got it right, after about 15-20 minutes you will suddenly arrive at a 4-way junction with a wooden signpost erected by the YMCA folks. You're now on the route in from Camp Thunderbird.
Follow the direction for Ragged Mountain/Sheilds Lake for 5 minutes to the point where these destinations diverge at another signpost. Turn right and head up steeply.
You're soon right under the high bluffs on Ragged South's south side. Good trail weaves a nice line through them to the summit in 20-30 minutes.
There's quite a bit of bush right on the summit but a few seconds to left or right brings you to the top of the bluffs and uninterrupted views in all directions except due north. The views of Manuel Quimper, Sooke Basin and the hills to the west of Harbour View Road, particularly Empress Mountain, are very fine indeed.
| Panorama from the summit of Ragged Mountain South. In the near ground from left to right: The Ramparts, Sooke Mountain and Empress Mountain. Peden Ridge in the middle distance at the centre of the shot. Compare this with the reverse panorama taken from Peden Ridge. |
Retrace your route back to your vehicle. Round trip time 5-6 hours with breaks.
Ragged Mountain
(Last revision June 2008)
Although seldom visited, the main summit of Ragged Mountain is a worthy objective.
 Mts Finlayson and Newton from Ragged  Manuel Quimper and Thunderbird from Ragged  Ragged Mountain summit group.
Seen from most aspects the summit would appear to be heavily forested with little prospect of views to reward the effort of getting there. This is not the case. The summit is privately owned and, as evinced by a sign on top, is being offered for sale as a microwave tower site. The owners have partially cleared the north side of the summit area, which, as a result, opens up views to the north and east, which encompass a more or less unimpeded panorama from Empress Mountain to Mts Work, Finlayson and Newton. I know of no other point in the Sooke Hills from which these summits can be seen from the same spot.
Prospective buyers for the site clearly don't make the long hike in here. The sign referred to above points skyward so that it can be read by any passing helicopters!
Approach via Ragged Mountain South (aka Thunderbird) as described above.
I'm of the opinion that many people, particularly the YMCA folk, believe that Ragged South is the higher of the twin summits of this mini-massif, in that the excellent trail up the latter suddenly ends at the top of the south bluffs. No amount of casting around on 2 visits to date has produced any vestige of regular onward travel from this point. From the top of Ragged South this is strictly a bushwhack and you would be well advised to bring along your GPS on this one. Better still, go with someone who knows the way, especially if it's your first time.
Make your way off the summit in a northeasterly direction, back up over a shoulder and eventually down to an old road. There are a number of old roads between the Ragged Twins. If in doubt, continue NE until you're sure you're in the low point between the two summits. There is some flagging around at this juncture but it's more of a hindrance than a help and probably means that someone was as lost as you are at this point.
Depending on where you strike the road, walk up and down it for a few metres to whatever point you can see the summit of Ragged and/or feel comfortable leaving it and resuming your northeasterly course. The good news is that if you've chosen well, and apart from some deadfall in the lower reaches, the going is reasonably open and not half as steep as the route through the south bluffs of Thunderbird. The even better news is that, if you're very, very lucky, about halfway up from the low point, you might even find the flags and faint boot path that we did on our last visit. Although it lost itself eventually in deadfall this appeared to come up from the southeast - as opposed to our southwest approach - and is on the list for future exploration.
The summit of Ragged is a nice flat granite platform with a cairn and offers the unique northerly view described above.
Avoid going over the summit of Ragged South on the return leg by continuing south on the old road beyond where you joined it. Follow flagging at first then bushwhack off to the right down a gully directly underneath the south bluffs of the mountain above and intersect the upward trail at the sign where the Ragged and Sheilds Lake trails diverge. A GPS is essential if you want to try this. Otherwise go back over the summit of Ragged South.
For a trip taking in both summits of Ragged Mountain, allow 7-8 hours from cars.
| The unique view north to east from the summit of Ragged Mountain. Empress Mountain is the high point on the left with Sooke Mountain partially visible to its left. Sheilds Lake is seen in the bowl below them. Mts Work and Finlayson at right. I know of no other point in the Sooke Hills where this collection of hills can be seen from the same spot. The panorama shown here is essentially a continuation to the north and east of the one above taken from Ragged South. |
Sooke Mountain
(Last revision April 2008)
 Peden Ridge from Sooke Mountain
 Manuel Quimper descending from Sooke Mountain  Ragged South descending from Sooke Mountain
The answer lies in the history of the area. "Sooke Mountain Park" was established in 1928 by the government of BC to protect the area from encroachment by industry. Whatever the original intentions were in creating the park, they have long ago been lost in a welter of swaps and counter swaps of land for logging rights, private lodges and even rumours that Sooke Mountain Park was somehow connected to some shady dealings in acquiring title to what is now called Portland Island after it was confiscated from Japanese Canadians as part of the ill conceived internment processes of the second World War. For more details on the history of the park visit this site.
Quite why such an obscure hill was chosen as the Park's signature mountain is beyond me. There it is, however, and its signature status should behove any regular Sooke Hills hiker to visit it at least once.
Approach as for Mt Manuel Quimper and the Ragged twins by parking in the lot at the end of the public section of Harbour View Road.
Walk up the road for 80-90 minutes past the access points for Mt Manuel Quimper and the Ragged twins to a faint spur road on the left at N 48.434° W 123.652°. As an indicator, 5 minutes before reaching the spur you cross a creek on a wooden bridge.
Follow what is left of the old road for 5 or 6 minutes first southwest and then northwest until you come across flagging heading off the right side of the road. Follow the flags northwest over a flat-topped subsidiary hill known locally as "East Clapper", down and around a swampy area and finally up to the indistinct (but cairned) summit of Sooke Mountain. It's about a 45 minute hike from the turn off Harbour View Road. The flags continue for a further 200 metres to the north to a second high point with a cairn. The true summit is the first you come to.
Summit views are principally to the west, particularly to Peden Ridge. However, there are nice views east across the valley to Manuel Quimper and the Ragged twins on the way up to East Clapper.
Monument MountainNEW
(Last revision June 2009)
Above Grass Lake and roughly 1.5 km due west of Sooke Mountain is the long north-south ridge known locally (but not officially) as Monument Mountain.
 Monument Mtn memorial plaque  Monument Mtn:descending the S ridge
Seen from most angles the hill is a rather non-descript knoll that seems to offer nothing much in the way of making a visit worthwhile. What is not immediately apparent, however, is a long open ridge that descends more than 200 vertical metres over almost a kilometre from near the high point of the ridge right into the forest and which gives splendid views south to the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the Olympics the whole way down. A loop hike can be made which combines a visit to tranquil Grass Lake with a hike up and over Monument Mountain.
As with all the hikes in this area, start from Harbourview Road. Hike 35 minutes to a prominent junction with an old road at N48 24.996 W123 40.769 and turn left. Walk 15 minutes down the old road to the Charters River and ford the river. Go up the trail on the opposite bank 150 metres to another prominent old road junction. Take the right fork.
About 500 metres up this road note an old wrecked car and an isolated river rock chimney - all that remains of an early attempt to homestead the area.
Walk another kilometre beyond the old chimney and note a well flagged and obvious trail on the left at N48 26.300 W123 40.762. This is the start of the brief climb up to the ridge of Monument Mountain above. Head that way immediately if time is short or carry on for another 500-600 metres on the old road to Grass Lake at the site of the old Alpine Club of Canada hut. The cleared site where the hut once stood is still apparent but nothing remains of the structure. Look around carefully, however, and you'll find a canoe generously left there in case visitors feel like a paddle on the lake. A rocky promontory juts out into the lake at this spot and makes a great place for lunch
Returning to the trail junction noted above, turn right and make a brief climb of just 40 vertical metres on excellent trail to a prominent cairn. This is not the summit of Monument Mountain however. The trail you are on heads left and down to a salal choked flat area on the ridge. The true summit is 50 metres higher than where you are and about a 1 km bushwhack almost due north. If you're a purist, head over that way but be aware that there's almost no view - although someone has currently (June 2009) built a rather interesting arched cairn, keystone and all, right on the summit.
If bushwhacking isn't your thing, turn left, follow good trail down to the flat area, through the salal, up the other side and out onto the open ridge. Those lovely southern views advertised above soon open up and it's a stunning walk down the ridge and back into the big trees.
Just after starting this phase of the walk you will pass right by a memorial plaque lying by the trail which, obviously, gives the hill its local name.
Once back in the trees look to make 2 right turns in order to close the circle at the junction 150 metres northeast of where you crossed the Charters River as noted above. From this point retrace your steps to your vehicle.
Panorama from the top of the open south ridge on Monument Mountain. From left to right: The Ramparts, Mt Manuel Quimper, the Strait of Juan de Fuca snd the Olympic Mountains of Washington State.
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Mt Braden
(Last revision June 2008)
Mt Braden makes a fine half-day excursion and can be combined with summits such as McDonald and Sugarloaf to make a longer trip.
 Alpine atmosphere at just 475m  Old BCS benchmark. Click for more info.
Approach from Victoria on Highway 1 and take the Colwood exit in the direction of Sooke. Soon after leaving the main highway you will pass Six Mile Pub on your right. Set your trip meter to zero here. Continue towards Sooke and at exactly 12.4 km pull off the highway into a large cleared area with a set of community mailboxes. Park here. Starting altitude is about 110m
Walk back along the highway for 6 hydro poles (about 300m). Immediately past the 6th pole - at the point where the power lines cross the highway - you should find a path leading into the woods. Take it. If you've got it right, you'll come across an old blue wrecked car almost immediately. Go ahead for 5 or 6 minutes and ford Veitch Creek. Go up the far bank of the creek to an old logging road and turn right. Walk along the nicely brushed out and pleasant road for about 30 minutes until it re-crosses the creek on an overgrown bridge. Just beyond the crossing - 100-200m - Veitch Creek Road takes a left turn off what appears to be the main route as it continues to follow the creek. Proceed up the turn off for 2 minutes and look for a worn path leading up and right. All flagging at this point has been recently (June 2008) removed, so keep your eyes peeled for the path. Altitude at this point is 235m.
The route used to be copiously flagged all the way to the summit. However, it was becoming a bit overdone and the local zealots had clearly had enough. A boot path guides you most of the way and there are enough remaining flags and a few cairns at critical places to make route finding not too much of a problem. You're mostly out of the trees in 5 minutes anyway and thereafter the way is open and obvious enough. Although the summit comes into view quite quickly, the route frequently seems to divert from the intuitive direction as it crosses 3 gullies on the way to the summit ridge.
The final leg to the summit cairn is up a rocky ridge that is open on all sides and has the feel of being in the alpine rather than at less than 500m.
Braden occupies a central location in the Sooke Hills and offers views over many neighbours both greater (eg Empress) and smaller (eg Sugarloaf).
Reverse the foregoing to return to your car. Allow 3.5-4 hours including breaks.
Sugarloaf Mountain
(Last revision March 2008)
 Sport climbing on Sugarloaf  Trad climbing on Sugarloaf
Sugarloaf Mountain is located approximately 2km SW of Mt Braden. Access is as described above for Mt Braden.
I can only assume it was named for its shape when viewed from the northeast - see the photographs in the Mt Braden section above. Like Braden, Sugarloaf enjoys a central position in Sooke Hills Regional Park Reserve and offers great views of the whole area. Being closer to the coast it also enables the climber to look into the east end of the Sooke Basin.
In addition to a hiking route to the summit, Sugarloaf has a developed rock climbing area on the impressive 50 metres high bluffs on the south west side of the mountain. Both trad and sport enthusiasts are catered too. For more information follow this link.
Like many trips to the Sooke Hills, a walk up Sugarloaf can be made into a circle hike. Allow about 3-4 hours for the following including breaks.
Approach as described for Mt Braden. Approximately 30-35 minutes from the car along the old road by Veitch Creek, just after the road meets the creek and then climbs up a small hill, look for a spur road off to the left. Take this spur into the valley between Sugarloaf and a lower, unnamed knoll to its northeast. The route is well flagged and has been recently brushed out. Follow the trail for approximately 25 minutes almost to the end of the valley where it makes a sharp turn left (roughly south) and heads up. Many different coloured tapes around several prominent trees indicate this point.
Follow the flagging up to the summit from here in about 15-20 minutes of steep going. As you arrive in the summit area, the top of the rock climbing bluffs is to your right and the actual summit to your left. The summit is marked by a cairn and a couple of metres away is a BCS survey marker.
Complete the circle by going off the summit to the south between two rock walls. The entrance to these "gates" is mid way between the top of the bluffs and the summit and is flagged with a single red tape. Descend steeply on the left (climber's right) of the climbing bluffs and right to their base to intersect the climbers' path. The right fork goes to the bluffs and the left leads out to the road. Follow the climbers' trail down to the Veitch Creek road in about 35-40 minutes and turn left. Join your outward route where you crossed Veitch Creek about 10 minutes later. This map may prove useful for the return leg, although the trail is pretty easy to follow. When choices appear the wrong turn is "blocked" by branches or rocks.
Summit view W to Manuel Quimper & Ragged |
Mt McDonaldUPDATED
(Last revision April 2009)
 Mt McDonald from Mt Wells
Follow the Trans-Canada Highway from Victoria, and turn left on West Shore Parkway. Turn right on Amy Road and left on Sooke Lake Road. Turn left on Humpback Road. At the intersection with Irwin Road, stay right. Follow Humpback Road to the entrance for Mt Wells Regional Park on the right and park here.
Leave the parking lot and walk south along Humpback Road which runs between Mts Wells and McDonald. After approximately 500-600 metres you may notice cars parked beside the road. These belong to folk playing on the developed rock-climbing areas on Mts Wells or McDonald. In this vicinity watch for a path leading off to the right and marked by a "no public access" sign. There may not be anyone climbing that day to mark the spot, or ask, so keep your eyes peeled. I have also included the photo opposite to help you find the right spot. Mt McDonald (and everywhere else in the Sooke Hills) is not officially open to the public, so the "trailhead" is deliberately not marked. After a minute of flat going through the big trees the route heads west and up steeply. There are several Class 2-3 sections to negotiate up rocky gullies and bluffs. Two fixed handlines are in place to assist on the descent. The route is not flagged but is well booted-in in most places. The hardest part of the route finding is locating the right trailhead.
On occasion you may notice flagging heading away from the obvious line of ascent. This marks various alternate routes that locals have put up over the years. Take these if you're comfortable travelling off-trail. All involve some Class 2-3 scrambling but nothing more difficult than the main route.
The summit is mostly clear of bush and offers lovely views across to Mt Wells and south to the Olympics.
A well flagged route leaves the summit in a northwesterly direction and leads down open mossy slopes to the service road for the transmitter station on McDonald. Once at the road turn left and wind back down the mountain, walk around the gate and back onto Humpback Road about 500m south of where you left it. If you can't find this route retrace your upward path.
Steep gully with handline |
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Open bluffs |
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The Olympics from McDonald |
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Ragged & Manuel Quimper from McDonald |
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Mt Wells
(Last revision February 2007)
 Mt Wells from Mt McDonald  Climbing bluffs on Mt Wells
Approach and park as for Mt McDonald. Follow the sign out of the parking lot to reach the well signed trailhead on the left and follow the good trail to the top in less than an hour. Descend the way you came up or make your way off the summit following a faint path to the southwest before looping back north down bluffs, ledges and gullies to regain the big trees under the rock-climbing area. This is not a maintained route and the faint path soon gets even fainter as it disappears into deadfall etc. First timers many need some patience and the willingness to backtrack a few times before they get this one nailed. Once under the climbing cliffs follow the climbers' trails out to the road to emerge 100m south of where the route up McDonald takes off to the west.
McDonald to Braden Traverse
(Last revision April 2008)
Mts McDonald and Braden can be connected as part of a 5-6 hours traverse. The route is flagged right across from the summit of McDonald and involves over 1,000 metres of total ascent as well as a bit of bushwhacking.
 Mt Braden from "Stick Bump"  Mt Finlayson from Mt Braden  Typical "trail" climbing Mt Braden.
Leave a vehicle at the mailboxes as described in the Mt Braden section above and drive back down Sooke Road to Humpback Road and turn left. Park as near as you can to the Mt McDonald "trailhead".
Go up McDonald and then find the flagged route described in the Mt McDonald section above that heads northwest, down and back into the forest to the transmitter station road. Go straight across the road and find the continuation of the flagging heading roughly west up onto open hillside once more.
The bluffy east aspect of Mt Braden soon comes into view. Traverse several high points as you proceed west with some noticeable loss and gain in altitude as you travel between them. The highest is known locally as "Stick Bump" - there's a stick in the summit cairn. Finally you arrive at an obvious dropoff down into a deep valley between the last bump and the foot of Mt Braden.
Go down steeply into the bottom of the valley where you will meet a road. Turn right and walk 100 metres to a junction with another road labelled "3J". Turn left and walk a further 50 metres on 3J until you find a faint trail and then the continuation of the flagging that heads left off the road and southwest up into the trees. At this point you have descended almost to your starting altitude.
Climb up through a lot of deadfall and bush and out onto open hillside once more. There is one bump to cross with a hanging valley on its west side across which you can see the summit of Braden. It looks close but takes a good half hour to negotiate.
The approach to the summit of Braden from the north is all in the trees very unlike the ridge-like approach from the south described in the Mt Braden section above.
From the summit of Braden follow the reverse of the route described above down to the old Veitch Creek road and then out to the mailboxes and your second vehicle.
If you're feeling fit and if time permits, add the Sugarloaf loop from Veitch Creek to the itinerary.
Mt Finlayson
(Last revision July 2007)
A favourite local hiking destination of Victorians for generations. People also come from miles around to watch the annual salmon spawning run in the Goldstream River from October into November.
 West face; first obstacle  Last step off the west face  West Face alternate finish.  View E from Finlayson W face
Leave Victoria on the Trans Canada Highway 1 and drive ~20 km to Goldstream Provincial Park. Being a provincial park and having a government as parsimonious as they come, we now have to pay a $3/day parking fee. Many people object to this and park on the highway where there is certainly lots of room. Make your choice then walk out of the lot, over the Goldstream River and find the well-signed trailhead 200m down Finlayson Arm Road on the right. SPer CharlesD has written up this splendid description of the standard route on Finlayson. There are, however, other ways to go up and down.
1. Walk off the summit northeast and into the trees following the continuation of the orange plates that mark the way up and find the "back side" descent route. The path goes down old fire roads to arrive at a trailhead on upper Finlayson Arm Rd in about 3km. Walk back 5km on the road to Goldstream. Boring but at least this offers a circular route. It's also possible to go up this way of course, including driving to the upper trailhead.
2. The West Face. A steep uncompromising scramble with exposure and loose rock. NOT for the beginner or faint of heart. I've known people carry a rope on this one.
Walk along Finlayson Arm Rd past the standard trailhead 300m to a paved U-shaped pull-out/parking lot on the right. The park boundary sign is 50m past this spot, so if you reach this you've gone too far. Pick up a faint path leading out of the back of this area and straight up a steep scree-filled gully. Thereafter, make your way up as best you can following a boot path in places, by the path of least resistance in others and recently, (July 2007) yellow flagging. The steepness never relents until you step off the last mossy ledges onto a rock bluff at the top of the route. There are three or four particularly notable points on the climb depending on which finish you choose. An exposed 4m high bluff with a crack which goes at Class 3 about 20 minutes from the start and halfway up. A rocky Class 2 groove 5 minutes above that and finally the (locally) famous 25m vegetated dihedral (see photo) quite close to the top. This is the crux of the route. Steep, exposed and hard Class 4, maybe even low 5th. If you're alone I don't recommend this. Go round the obstacle on climber's right; there is a path, which shows how many folk choose the chicken option. After reaching the top of the dihedral by either choice, trend upwards and left on mossy slabs to reach a corner where you make a high step onto a last ramp to the top. Look down directly on the roof of the visitor centre 400m below you.
An alternate finish to the route involves more Class 3 or 4 climbing. At the top of the mossy slabs and a minute before reaching the finish above look for a high (~30m) corner system and examine the right wall closely. If you've found the right place, you'll notice a weakness heading up and to the right with obvious signs of travel - but no marking. Take this at Class 3 or 4 up to the top of the bluffs. There is some exposure and, again, this isn't a route I would take alone. If in doubt go all the way left up the mossy slabs described above and exit that way. The advantage to this finish, besides being enjoyable, is that it puts you on a well trodden path and within 5 minutes of the summit of Finlayson without the need for the bush bash described below.
There are several ways to descend. From the exit point contour east through the woods, around the crown of the mountain and intersect the backside route. There is no path and I don't believe I've ever trodden the same ground twice when going this way. Go down directly down the back side or up to the summit and down the standard route with the crowds. It's also possible to scramble directly up to the summit from the exit point and descend from there. The last choice, of course, is to descend the way you came up. I don't recommend this and have never done it.
Holmes Peak and Jocelyn HillThese two summits are high points on the ridgeline of the Gowlland Range which runs north from Finlayson Arm Rd and down the east side of Finlayson Arm itself. Spectacular views down the Arm to the outlet of Goldstream River and to the Olympics beyond.
Start from the trailhead at Caleb Pike. Approach from Victoria on Highway 1 and exit at Millstream Rd. At the junction with Millstream Lake Rd keep left and drive 1km further to Caleb Pike Rd. Turn left and drive into the parking lot at the end of the road. Walk the easy and well-marked trail to arrive at Holmes Peak in 20 minutes and Jocelyn in a little over an hour. Return the way you came with some minor variations possible as outlined on this map
Lone Tree Hill
Lone Tree sits right in the middle of the higher ridges of the Gowlland range and Mt Work. Approach as for Holmes Peak and Jocelyn Hill but at Caleb Pike Rd keep straight on to reach the signed parking lot in ~3km. It's an easy 15 minutes to the top. The local ravens love this place and it's a great spot to watch them playing. Unlike the higher points on the Gowlland Range and Mt Work, there are no trees to the east of the summit and this allows views as far as Mt Baker, Glacier Peak and even Mt Rainier on a clear day.
Lone Tree Hill summit |
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The "lone tree" |
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The hill is named for the 200 year old bonsai-like Douglas fir that used the grace the summit. The remains of this local icon can still be seen.
Mt Work
(Last revision May 2007)
The subject of much wordplay amongst locals. As in "I like going to Work", "Work was fun today", "Work before play" etc. The mountain, in fact, is named after a John Wark. Everyone has always called it "Work" however, and at some point the incorrect appellation stuck. 
Mt Work from Lone Tree Hill |
The mountain is the focal point of Mt Work Regional Park and a VERY popular destination for locals.
Climb from either the north (Durrance Lake) or south (Munn Rd) trailheads. For Durrance Lake approach on West Saanich Road. From West Saanich Road, turn left on Wallace Drive, and left again on Willis Point Road. After 4km turn left on Ross-Durrance Road, which leads to the park entrance on the left in 30m. For Munn Road approach initially on the Trans-Canada Highway from Victoria, and take the Helmcken Road exit. Turn left on Burnside Road West, then right on Prospect Lake Road. Turn left on Munn Road, which leads to the park entrance on the right. If in doubt, refer to this map.
From either trailhead follow the occasionally steep but well built trails to the summit. For the odd occasions when the trail in under snow or otherwise obscured by windfall etc, the way is also marked by yellow metal plaques. This is the local ravens other favourite spot and I've also seen golden eagles from here. A bluff 3 minutes north of the summit plaque gives the best views north offered by any of the CRD summits with the possible exception of Mt Tuam, whilst a similar one 3 minutes south enables one to peer into (with binoculars) the Navy's yard in Esquimalt. It's an easy hour up fom the north and an equally leisurely 50 minutes from the south. The north route has a 10 minute flat section after the first 20 minutes or so that makes a nice breath catcher.
Finlayson to Work EnchainmentThis makes a great day out particularly in winter when looking for things to do locally that keep the fitness levels up. It involves nearly 25km distance and over 1100m of ascent. Two cars are necessary of course. Allow 7-8 hours including breaks.
Start by leaving a car at the south (Munn Rd) parking lot for Mt Work and then make your way to Millstream Lake Road, then left on Millstream Road and finally right on Finlayson Arm Road. Drive this very narrow road 8km down to the Goldstream parking lot and pay your $3.
Start at sea level and ascend Finlayson by the standard route or the west face route described above. Go down the "back side" trail from either as far as the upper trailhead on Finlayson Arm Rd. Turn right and walk up the road for 300m to Rowntree Rd and turn left. Go up Rowntree to the end and locate a fire road on the right side of the cul de sac. Walk the fire road for 2km to the Caleb Pike access to the Gowlland range described above under Jocelyn Hill and Holmes Peak. Proceed along the ridge top trail to the top of Jocelyn Hill and then down the Timberman Trail 6 km to Ross Durrance Rd. Turn left and walk 200m north on Ross Durrance to the north parking lot for Mt Work described above. Go up Mt Work and then down the continuation of the trail to Munn Rd and the vehicle you left there.
Jocelyn Hill and Holmes Peak |
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View N from Holmes Peak |
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North Finlayson Arm |
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East Side of the Saanich Peninsula
Of the three notable high points in this heavily populated area, you can drive to the top of two.
An early Victoria mayor, Bert Todd, had the foresight to see the tourist potential of the views from Mt Douglas and was instrumental is getting a road built up it. You can also walk up of course. Visit the Mount Doug website.
 View south from Horth Hill
Mt Newton is in John Dean Provincial Park right on the edge of a large subdivision. There are many options to get to the historic survey point near the radar dome on top. Refer to the trail map.
Horth Hill is the last high point on the Saanich Peninsula before the tidewater of Satellite Channel and the only hill in this area that you have to walk up. Drive up Highway 17 towards the BC Ferry terminal at Schwartz Bay and take the second last exit before the ferries signed for McDonald Park and Wain Road. Take Wain 500m to Tatlow Rd and turn right. The park entrance is 1km down Tatlow on the right. Take any of the signed options for the "summit loop". The summit is actually in the trees but there is a viewpoint on the south edge of the round top that is worth visiting. Refer to the park brochure for a map and the history of the area. It is also worth noting that this is a mixed-use park, so watch out for horses.
Mt Tuam
(Last revision April 2007)
Immediately north of Satellite Channel, on Saltspring Island, the land begins to rise more significantly and the first high point encountered is Mt Tuam, a personal favourite of mine. On numerous trips over there over a span of many years I've yet to see another soul on the mountain. However, a small subdivision has appeared in recent years on the upper southeast slopes and another is beginning to take shape on the south-facing seashore at the base, so this may not continue much longer. Although the lower slopes are set aside as an ecological reserve, this is all private land, so tread carefully and respect property lines.| Mount Tuam panorama from Lands End Road |
Approach initially by BC Ferry from the terminal at Schwartz Bay to Fulford Harbour on Saltspring. There are many ways up Tuam. The following is my favourite since, after just 15 minutes or so, you clear the trees and get views all the way to the top.  Mt Baker from Tuam SE bowl  Mt Baker to the east from the summit of Tuam.
From Fulford Harbour take the road to Ganges. At the bottom of the hill 1.3km from the ferry, leave the Ganges road and turn left onto Isabella Point Road. There's a pub just before the junction. Drive south 3.7km along Fulford Sound to Mountain Road on the right. Set your tripmeter to 0 here. Mountain Rd becomes gravel immediately but is easily navigable with a normal 2WD vehicle. At 3.30 km watch for a grassy road on your right. There is some old logging cable dumped a few metres up the turnout. Turn up here for 20-30m and park your car. Go ahead up this old fire or forestry road, which almost immediately degrades to a washed-out track with lots of deadfall to climb over or around. Just after the track makes a right turn it disappears completely into undergrowth. There is a flagged bypass on the right which takes you round this area and back to the remains of the road just before it emerges from the trees at a pile of logging slash. Once clear of the trees take note of this spot for the return leg. Walk north across the flat clearing and pick up another grassy track running east/west. Turn left. Go ahead for 5 minutes until you can see the big open southeast facing bowl ahead of you. This is crisscrossed with old fast-disappearing logging roads and now with new gravel roads that will provide access for future housing. Make your way up and across the bowl in a northwesterly direction making use of any or none of the roads and aim for the top of the bowl. Once you've gained sufficient height look back down the sweep of the south end of Saltspring to Isabella Point, the ferry terminal on Vancouver Island and framing it all, Mt Baker. In my opinion, this is the best of the many views of Baker that are possible this side of the border.
As a result of the recent developments on Tuam, you will probably arrive at the top of the bowl at the dead end of the highest new road. The coordinates at this point are: N 48° 43.51' W 123° 28.61'. Look for a faint boot path heading up and slightly to the right at the back of the road-end. Follow this up through some mature growth and emerge 10 minutes later on another older gravel road. Turn left on the road and go right to its end. Carry on straight off the end of the road onto what must once have been a logging road. Go along this for 100-200m. It heads downhill for a little before petering out into a faint path that heads up and right. At some point all vestiges of path or flagging will disappear and you make your last 100m of vertical gain through some light B1 bush and deadfall and finally up open grassy slopes. Head up and northwest and you'll find the way with no problem. The trick is to look behind and note waypoints that enable you to find your way down the same way.
Try to ignore the large microwave station on the summit and instead enjoy the 300° views. The view used to be 360° until the trees to the east matured cutting off what was a nice aspect as far as downtown Vancouver. The remaining arc is fine enough however. To the south and southwest are most of the "Urban Summits" described above as well as the Olympics. To the southeast, Baker and, on a clear day, Rainier. To the north, the mountains of the Cowichan Valley and beyond as far as the conditions of the moment allow.
Descend by reversing the above. Note that no water is available anywhere on the route, so carry enough with you.
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