Thailand is located in Southeast Asia. It is a beautiful country that is full of history. There are mountains, waterfalls, cliffs, and beaches. It shares borders with Myanmar on the north and west, Laos on the north and east, Cambodia on the southeast, and Malaysia on its southern end. Thailand is about the same as the country of France or slightly smaller than the state of Texas. It is ruled by an elected government and is inspired by the world's longest-reigning monarchy. The main religion of the country is Buddhism. Thailand has friendly and generous people and is often called the "land of smiles." In 1939, the name Siam was officially changed to Thailand, meaning "The Land of the Free."

The largest city in Thailand is Bangkok. It has a population of about 12 million and is kind of like its own little world. To give you an idea on how big the city is, one out of every six Thai people live there. Bangkok's full name would take a whole paragraph to spell out but in English translates to "City of Angels." It is the international gateway to much of Southeast Asia. For tourists it is their first stop from the airport. Bangkok is Thailand's capitol and most famous city. It contains some of most beautiful temples and shrines. There is a lot of history to be discovered here and most people can not walk away without being impressed with places such as the Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. In reality, Bangkok bears little resemblance to the rest of the country. Most of Thailand is a rural patchwork of rice fields, villages, and forests.

Several books that have been written about rock climbing in Thailand and it has become quite popular. There are mountains in every area of the country with the North being the most mountainous region. Although they are not high in elevation, it is a very rewarding experience to be able to climb some of them. Some peaks are easy while others are rarely climbed and require off-trail hiking through dense jungles. The word “Phu” means mountain except in Northern Thailand where the word “Doi” is used. The word “Khao” also means hill or mountain.

After making a page for Northern Thailand I received some emails asking if I could also make a page for Northeastern Thailand. I decided to make a page that would provide an overview for this area. Much of this information is from my own personal experience from hiking and exploring this region. There are numerous mountain ranges in Thailand but little is known about these remote places.

Limestone Mountains above Tham Erawan

Regions Overview

Thailand is generally divided into four regions. Here are the other three regions.

Northern Thailand - This is where the highest mountains are located. The largest city in the area is Chiang Mai. Another well known city is Chiang Rai near the border of Thailand, Myanmar, and Laos. Even though it is located 450 miles north of Bangkok, the region is quite accessible by driving or air travel. There are two distinct areas. They are the wide plains of the lower north from Nakhon Sawan up to Sukhothai. Sukhothai was the old capitol of Thailand. It lasted from the year 1238 till 1438 and has many ruins and temples in amazing condition. This area leads into the mountainous upper north that has long borders with Myanmar and Laos. Trekking is popular along with elephant riding and river rafting. These mountains are home to several hill tribes. There are also many national parks.

The Central Plains - This is where Bangkok is located. Central Thailand is the basin of the Chao Phraya River. It is fed by a large network of canals and rivers in a lush, fertile valley supporting vast fields of rice, sugar cane, pineapples and other fruit. It is the richest and most extensive rice-producing area in the country and has often been called the "Rice Bowl of Asia". Two places that you should see are Erawan National Park and Sai Yok National Park which are well known for many of their spectacular waterfalls. The former capitol of Ayutthaya is located to the north and is something that should not be missed. The old temples and ruins in this city date back to the year 1350. Another place to visit is the city of Kanchanaburi which is located west of Bangkok. It has the Death Railway Bridge used in WWII, more commonly known as The Bridge over the River Kwai, made famous by the movie of the same name.

The Southern Peninsula - This region is south of Bangkok and extends down to the Malaysian border. This region has something for everybody, marine national parks, endless beaches, and several resort towns. Tourists are always having fun here and enjoying the cheap accommodations that are available. Popular rock climbing areas can be found in the province of Krabi. Winter is the best time to visit this area. On December 26, 2004, a magnitude 9.3 earthquake, erupted on the floor of the Indian Ocean. Along Thailand's Andaman coast, a tsunami struck six provinces. In Thailand, the toll was 8,000 people confirmed dead or missing. Since then, Thailand has slowly rebuilt itself out of the disaster. Tourists are encouraged to visit these areas that are now open for business.

View from the summit of Phu Tok

Northeastern Thailand

Northeastern Thailand is thought to be a mysterious place by many tourists. It isn’t surprising since the area is away from the main stream of traffic. You won’t see very many tour buses here. Most people describe visiting this region as seeing traditional Thai life and culture. It is called by names such as the Khorat Plateau and Isan. Thai people use the term Isan to classify the area’s people, language, and food. The name derives from the early Mon-Khmer kingdom that lived in what is now northeastern Thailand and Cambodia. This region is where the greatest Khmer temples and monuments in Thailand are located.

This is often considered to be the poorest region of Thailand. Farmers make up the majority of the population. The main language of the region is Isan, which is similar to Lao, but Thai is also spoken by almost everyone. Isan food is known for being hot and spicy where peppers and chillies are prominent. Sticky rice is a staple of Thai northeastern cuisine, and accompanies almost every meal. Fish is another favorite food. The people in this region love to make roasted chicken which you can find in every town.

This is an arid region characterized by a rolling terrain and undulating hills. Harsh climatic conditions often result in this region being subjected to floods and droughts. Mountains are predominantly made of sandstone, limestone, and granite. The highest mountain that I know of is Phu Luang, 1,571 meters. It is in the Loei Province, which is one the most mountainous areas in Northeastern Thailand. The region is bordered by Laos and the Mekong River to the north and east, and by Cambodia to the south. It is separated from Northern and Central Thailand by the Phetchabun Mountain Range.

Northeastern Thailand was the site of seven air force bases during the Vietnam War. They were used by the U.S. military to launch air strikes on Laos and Vietnam in the 1960’s and 1970’s. This included the cities of Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) and Udon Thani (Udorn). It is still dangerous to travel off road near the borders of Laos and Cambodia due to land mines left from the Vietnam War era.

Here is a map of Thailand and the Northeast Region

Phu Wua

Phu Tham Phra Waterfall

Phu Wua Potholes

Phu Wua

Phu Wua is about 170 km east of the city of Nong Khai. It is located in Phu Wua Wildlife Sanctuary. You can get to the Sanctuary by car from Nong Khai or take a bus along the highway and then take a tuk tuk to the Kham Pia village for the last 3 km. There are accommodations available in the nearby village Ban Kam Pia. Here visitors can stay overnight with local families learning about the lives of Thai villagers and local culture too. Phu Wua translates into “Cow Mountain.” The Sanctuary was created in 1975 to protect the forests, rocks, and animals. It is ideal for one or two days trekking and visitors also have a chance to see wild animals.

It is adjacent to the Laotian border where the two borders run parallel to the Mekong River. The area is about 150-300 meters above sea level and comprises many beautiful waterfalls. In Thailand, “Nam Tok” means waterfall. Phu Wua has several including Nam Tok Chanaen, Nam Tok Tham Fun, Nam Tok Tham Phra and Nam Tok Chet Si. There are numerous potholes in the bare bedrock. They are very cool but could easily swallow up any person who might fall in. The best time to see the waterfalls are in the late rainy season from September to November when water is overflowing onto the rocks below.

Phu Tok

Phu Tok Trail

Phu Tok

Phu Tok is located at the extreme northeastern corner of Thailand. It is 140 km east of the city of Nong Khai and known commonly as the lonely mountain. It is an impressive sandstone peak that stands over the surrounding plain. Buddhist monks come from all over the region to meditate here. There are seven levels of hiking on the peak that represent the seven factors of enlightenment in Buddhist psychology. The mountain has two summits with one that is open to the public. Wat Phu Tok was used by Ajahn Juan who died in a plane crash in 1980. It was his idea to build the staircase up the mountain which took five years to complete.

It is not a strenuous hike but it is one of the most interesting mountains I have ever climbed. The regular route to the top can be done by most people. There are several alternative routes that go all the way around the side of the mountain. People who are afraid of heights may not like this. The trail was built on the side of a cliff and there is a lot of air beneath you. I found this part to be fun but it was a little unnerving too. The final climb to the summit is on a dirt trail where can you pull yourself up with tree roots. There is a sign that says to watch out for cobras. Hopefully, you are not afraid of snakes. There are great views of the Mekong River valley below.

Phu Rua

Phu Rua Trail

Phu Rua

Phu Rua is a great mountain to climb in the Loei Province. It can also be seen spelled as Phu Ruea. Its name translates to “Boat Mountain” for its distinct shape when viewed from far away. Some say it was named for a cliff that protrudes out of the peak in the shape of a Chinese junk. The mountain overlooks the Hueang River and Khong River. The drive from the town of Loei is very scenic. It follows a windy road through the mountains of the Loei Province. During winter the mist and clouds come down to the valley. We were surprised when we got to the trailhead early in the morning to see the temperature around 38 °F.

The trail starts from the park headquarters parking lot. It is a nice 2.5 hour hike to the summit. It passes through three forest zones. They include tropical forest, evergreen forest, and pine forest. On the summit is a beautiful Buddha surrounded by flowers. There is also a sign that says Phu Rua 1,365 meters. On a clear day you can see all the way to the Sainyabuli Province in Laos. Along the rim are trails that go to cliff overlooks that are worth checking out. Other hikes in the park include Huai Phai Waterfall. Pha Sam Tong is a high meadow with great views. Its name comes from the golden-colored lichen.

Phu Kradueng

Phu Kradueng

Phu Kradueng is the most popular mountain to climb in Northeastern Thailand. It is located in the Loei Province. Phu Kradueng translates into “Bell Mountain.” The mountain is in Phu Kradueng National Park which became the second national park in Thailand. Generally, it is a sandstone mountain, but there are also granite cliffs on top of the plateau. The most obvious thing that stands out about the peak is its huge plateau which stretches for miles. You’ll be able to see the mountain from far away because of its size. In winter, Phu Kradueng is usually covered in clouds and fog. The temperature on top of the plateau can reach freezing.

It is a scenic hike through forests with views of the surrounding area. There is a maintained trail that climbs a steady grade all the way to the summit. It has a good amount of elevation gain and some people have porters carry their gear for them if they are staying overnight. Near the last part of the hike are several steep parts with stairs have been built into the trail. There are local villagers who have set up “sams” where you can buy food and drinks along the way. This makes it one of the most unique mountains I have climbed. The villagers are friendly and happy when they see foreigners who have come to climb their mountain.

Khao Yai

Khao Yai

Khao Yai National Park is located in Nakhon Ratchasima Province. This is the oldest and most visited national park in Thailand. Khao Yai means “large mountain” and is part of the Dongrak Mountain Range which forms part of the border of Thailand and Cambodia. The park is so large that it is located in four provinces. This is also where the largest intact monsoon forest in inland Asia is located. The park is known for its waterfalls and beautiful scenery. Khao Rom, 1,351 meters, is the highest mountain in the area. The park has plenty of hiking trails, some of which were formed by animals. Many trails are well signed and maintained, but it is easy to get lost on the longer trails. For this reason it is recommended that you hire a guide to take you to the less traveled areas. Bring a good pair of boots to keep your feet dry.

There are around 200 to 300 wild elephants that live in the park. Other animals include barking deer, Malayan sun bears, Asiatic black bears, serows, gibbons, and wild pigs. The best time to have a chance at seeing these animals is from June to October. Most visitors go to the park during the winter season. Khao Yai is also where the largest population of great hornbills birds. In Thailand they are known as the elephant tusk bird. There are three wildlife watching towers in the park. Caves are home to several rare species of bats. There are many other mountains located here: Khao Lam; 1,326 meters, Khao Keaw; 1,292 meters, Khao Sam Yod; 1,142 meters, Khao Far Pha; 1,078 meters, Khao Kampang; 875 meters, Khao Samor Poon; 805 meters and Khao Kaew; 802 meters.

Cambodia as seen from the Khao Phra Wihan Temple

Other Mountains

Phu Pha Jit

Phetchabun Province. The highest mountain, 1,271 meters, in Nam Nao National Park. It sits on the border between the North and Northeastern regions. The entrance is located at 69 km along state highway number 12 (Don Lomsak - Chum Pae). It is a 10 km walk to the summit and takes 6-7 hours. The mountain has a large plateau with pine forest and stands alone in the middle of a flat plain similar to Phu Kradueng but smaller in size.

Phu Jongsi

Udorn Mountains

Mukdaharn Province. The highest peak in Mukdaharn National Park. It is a rocky mountain consisting of a high cliff with different rock layers overlapping each other. There are many other mountains located in the Park. The area is made of sandy soil which is the source of many streams such as Huai Taluak, Huai Sing and Huai Ruar.

Phu Kra Sa

Mukdaharn Province. This is the highest peak in Phu Sa Dok Bua National Park. Other peaks in the park are around 350-450 meters high. These mountains provide the water sources for many rivers and streams. There are many kinds of plants and stone fields that local people call “Dan” that are surrounding the peak.

Phu Pha Lek

Sakhon Nakhorn Province. This is a large mountain with several points. It is located in Phu Pha Lek National Park. Suriyan Cliff is a high cliff on the highest peak of Phu Pha Lek Mountain. The area is a good view point and favorite for enjoying the sunrise in the morning. The park is part of the Phu Phan mountain range. There are several cliffs with scenic overlooks in the area. Phu Ang Sor is the highest mountain in the park.

Phu Foilom

Udon Thani Province. This is a small friendly mountain that is great for the whole family. This was an area where dinosaurs and other prehistoric animals lived. The park has a small museum and several large statues that kids love to play around. The word dinosaur is one of the few words in the English language that is the same in the Thai language. There are some waterfalls but they can only be seen during the rainy season.

Khao Phra Wihan Temple

Places of Interest

There are many places to visit in this region. Here are a few that I recommended.

Khao Phra Wihan Temple

Si Saket Province. This temple is located in Prasat Khao Phra Wihan National Park founded in 1998. The temple is just inside Cambodia but is only accessible from Thailand and located in both countries. It is one of the region’s greatest Angkor Wat period monuments built in the late 10th century into the early 12th century. It stands on top of a 1,700 foot cliff on the Dangrek escarpment with great views of Cambodia below.

Prasat Hin Khao Phanom Rung Historical Park

Buriram Province. Phanom Rung is the largest and most restored of all Khmer temple monuments in Thailand. Phanom Rung is the Khmer word for “big hill.” The Thais have added their own words of rock “hin” and hill “khao” to describe it. It is located on top an old volcano of 1,320 feet elevation high above the fields below. Phanom Rung was built sometime between the 10th and 13th centuries.

Phu Phrabat Highpoint

Prasat Phimai National Historical Park

Nakhon Ratchasima Province. This is a Hindu-Mahayana Buddhist temple that was started in the 10th century and finished in the early 11th century. It actually predates the famous Angkor Wat in Cambodia by about a hundred years. The temple has a distinct Khmer design. It is one of the most complete temples in the area and is a great place to visit especially during quiet weekdays.

Phu Phrabat Historical Park

Udon Thani Province. The park is situated on the Phu Phra Bat hill of Phu Phan Mountain. There are 62 archaeological and cultural sites offering prehistoric rock paintings from about 4,000 to 2,000 years ago. The area is full of large and impressive rock formations. Each rock has a plaque that tells a story. The trail takes about two hours to hike at a leisurely pace. The highpoint of Phu Phrabat gives a good view with the mountains of Laos to the north.

Ban Chiang

Udon Thani Province. This is the location of the ancient Ban Chiang civilization. It is the most significant historical site in Thailand. There are hundreds of treasured artifacts and some are over 5,000 years old. There is a museum with many informational exhibits and the original excavation pit. The Ban Chiang people were prosperous in the agriculture of Northeastern Thailand. They are known for their early bronze metals, clay pottery, and especially for pots and vases with burnt swirl designs. This area was declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1992.

Tham Erawan

Tham Erawan

Udon Thani Province. In Thai, tham means cave and this one was named after Erawan, the triple headed elephant in Thai mythology. The cave is located on the side of a huge cliff in a beautiful limestone mountain. The trail starts behind Wat Tham Erawan and there is a long winding staircase that you must climb in order to get to the entrance. This is where a large Buddha and cave shrine are located. It is a nice cave that you can follow all the way to the other side which ends in at the side of large cliff with a good view of the area.

Thai - Lao Friendship Bridge

Nong Khai Province. This was the first bridge to be built over the Mekong River to connect Thailand with Laos and improve relations between the two countries. It opened to the public in 1994. Tourists can walk to the middle of the bridge, which is also the border, and take pictures. During low water levels in winter you can walk down below the bridge and buy food and eat down by the beach. Foreigners who want to visit Laos are required to have a passport and visa and travel with an authorized agency only.

Sala Kaew Sculpture Park

Nong Khai Province. This is an incredible place. The park is filled with huge statues and figures of both Hindu and Buddhist images. Luang Poo Boun Leua Sourirat was a Lao national who had built a sculpture park on the other side of the Mekong River in Laos. He moved to northeastern Thailand in 1975 after the communist takeover in Laos. He then built a similar sculpture park in Nong Kai, Thailand over a period of 20 years. Sourirat died in 1996.

The Mekong River is the border between Thailand and Laos

National Parks

National Parks List

There are over 20 National Parks in Northeastern Thailand. If you ask me which National Park you should visit, I would tell you all of them. Of course, no one has time to visit all of them in one trip. Click on the link above for information on all National Parks.

Khao Yai National Park is the most visited park in Thailand and is on many peoples list of places to visit. Wildlife can be seen in all national parks. For those who enjoy mountainous places, Phu Kradueng and Phu Rua National Parks are on the top list for the region.

Least visited National Parks that deserve more attention include Tat Ton National Park in Chaiyaphum Province. It has eight beautiful waterfalls including its most well known Nam Tok Tat Ton. There are also some nice viewpoints. The least known park in the Loei Province is Phu Suan Sai National Park (Na Haeo).

Phu Wiang National Park is the place to visit if you enjoy dinosaurs. It is located in the Khorn Kaen Province. Miners first discovered dinosaur bones in 1976 and soon began to excavate the top of Phu Pratutima. More bones and fossils were found and the park was established. There is a small museum with life-sized models of the dinosaurs which have been found in the area.

Sunset in the Udon Thani Province

Getting There

Thai Airways International operates flights from two cities in the United States: Los Angeles and New York City. Flights to Thailand operate two to three times a week. Most people will be flying to Bangkok. For more information go to the website for Thai Airways.

Here is how to get to Northeastern Thailand:

By Car - Isan is easily accessible with four major highways connecting it with other regions. Inter-provincial transportation are also among the best and most convenient. From Bangkok, take Highway 1 (Phaholyothin) to Saraburi, at Km. 107 take Highway 2 (Friendship Highway) through Nakhon Ratchasima and Khon Kaen provinces.

By Bus - Air conditioned coaches and non-air-conditioned buses leave Bangkok's Northeastern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit) on Kamphaengphet 2 Road every day between 5.00 AM. and 10.00 PM.

By Train - Bangkok railway station at Hua Lamphong, Rama 1V Road is the center for trains to northest provinces. The northeastern provinces that can he reached by train are Nakhon Ratchasima, Buri Ram, Surin, Si Saket, Khon Kaen, Udon Thani, Nong Khai and Udon Ratchathani.

By Air - Don Muang Domestic Airport is the center for flights to the Northeast. The northeastern provinces that can be reached by plane are Nakhon Ratchasima, Sakon Nakhon, Khon Kaen. Udon Thani and Udon Ratchathani.

Red Tape

Phu Phrabat

A Passport is needed for any foreigners staying in Thailand for less than 30 days. If you plan on staying longer a visa is required. Anyone who wants to travel over the border into Laos and Cambodia will need a visa. They can be obtained from the Laotian Embassy or Cambodian Embassy in Bangkok, The consulate at Khon Kaen, and the Friendship Bridge in Nong Khai.

Most people who come to Thailand will want to see some of the temples. Shorts and sleeveless shirts are not appropriate and at some of the more famous temples you may be turned away. Remember to remove your shoes before entering any temple.

The currency of Thailand is baht. 40 baht = 1 U.S. dollar. Coined money is called satang. There are 100 satang in 1 baht. The current cost for entrance into a national park is 200 baht for foreigners and 20 baht for Thai citizens. This two tiered system is common in Southeast Asia.

When to Climb

The northeast has a three season climate: Winter, Summer, and the Rainy Season.

Winter is the best time to visit this region. This is from November through February. Nights can be chilly but by afternoon temperatures are comfortable. This region experiences the most extreme temperature changes in the country. During summer, the lowlands have the hottest temperatures. In contrast, during winter, the mountainous areas have the coldest temperatures.

Thailand has a warm, tropical climate affected by a seasonal monsoon. The summer period, or hot and dry season, is from March to June. Try and avoid April because this is the hottest month across the country.

The rainy season is from June to October. The monsoons finish when the wind direction changes. This season can be described as unpredictable and not the constant downpour of rain like you would expect. The middle months of this season may hold particularly heavy rains in the northeast.

Books

Lonely Planet: Thailand

By Joe Cummings, Morgan Konn, China Williams, Becca Blond, Matt Warren. Comprehensive book decribes every region in Thailand.

National Geographic Traveler: Thailand

Good 400 page book with maps and color photos on all areas in Thailand.

Images



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