Some things are a tragedy. Romeo and Juliet is a tragedy, the Titanic disaster was a tragedy, and the fact that most of us can only get to the mountains on the weekend is definitely a tragedy. The fact that the Rhinogs are largely ignored by most people is also a tragedy. Not for the mountains themselves though, they positively thrive from this fact. There are very few paths, the paths that are there are in no danger of erosion, there's no litter, no crowds, it's still a wilderness. It is of course a tragedy for those who are missing out, because they are not experiencing the pristine natural and historic landscape that is the Rhinogs.

As you might have gathered the Rhinogs, also know as the Rhinogydd or Rhinogau in Welsh, is one of Wales' wildest and least visited mountain ranges. The range stretches some 20 km from north to south with the highest peaks found in the southern half of the range. The mountains from which the range takes its name, Rhinog Fawr (720m) and Rhinog Fach (712m), are not in fact the highest, as to the south Y Llethr reaches 756m and Diffwys reaches 750m.

Despite their marginally lower height, by far the most spectacular peaks are Rhinog Fach and Rhinog Fawr. Rhinog Fawr is most commonly reached from the north via Cwm Bychan and the Roman Steps, a pathway that is thought to date from the Roman occupation of Britain, before the summit is attacked from Llyn Du (translates as Black Lake). From Llyn Du there is the option of a scramble up a short gully before the final walk to the summit. Rhinog Fach can be reached from Cwm Nantcol, a secluded little valley separating the two Rhinogs, before climbing past Llyn Hywel to the summit. The summit is quite rocky and affords excellent views of the whole range.

The northern half of the range is characterised by a series of rocky, heather clad terraces, intersected by a series of shallow gorges and small lakes. The highest points in the northern half are Moel Ysgyfarnod (623m), and Foel Penolau (614m). Paths are few making navigation difficult, especially in poor weather, and the going can be tough, but the beauty and tranquillity that this area offers is vast. It is quite possible to walk all day without meeting a single other person, and that is something quite uncommon within the Snowdonia National Park.

List of Mountains

Y Llethr 756m South Rhinogs
Diffwys 750m South Rhinogs
Rhinog Fawr 720m South Rhinogs
Rhinog Fach 712m South Rhinogs
Y Garn 629m South Rhinogs
Moel Ysgyfarnod 623m North Rhinogs
Foel Penolau 614m North Rhinogs

Geology

Bedrock Geology of Snowdonia

Bedrock Geology of the Rhinogs

Sarn Badrig

The Mountains form the geomorphological, if not the structural, centre of the Harlech Dome, an anticlinal region separating the Snowdon and central range synclines. The area consists of mostly Cambrian rocks surrounded by Tertiary rocks in the west and Ordovician formations, many of which are igneous, in the north, east and south. The main part of the Cambrian formation consists of Harlech Grits, with Mawddwch and Rhobell volcanic groups in the east.

During the last ice age the height of the ice sheet covered all but the heighest two peaks, Y Llethr and Diffwys, whose summits protruded above the ice as nunataks. The Welsh Ice Sheet moved accross the range from the Snowdon and Aran regions and into the Irish Sea basin where it joined the Irish Sea glacier and moved south along Cardigan Bay.

To the west of the Rhinog Mountains is Sarn Badrig, the largest and most prominent of three submarine ridges (the other two being, Sarn-y-Bwlch and Sarn Cynfelin) extending out into Cardigan Bay. The ridge rises some 9-12m above the general level of the seabed, has an overall length of approximately 17km and an orientation of 230�. The feature contains erratic from the Aran and Arenig Mountains as well as from the Lleyn Peninsula, and is thought to represent a medial moraine, masking the line of confluence between the Irish Sea and Welsh ice streams.

Conservation

Map showing Rhinog SAC

Rhinog Special Area of Conservation

The Rhinogs have been designated as a Special Conservation Area (SAC) and are therefore strictly protected under the EC Habitats Directive. The Rhinog SAC covers 3144.53 hecters and includes within its boundaries the summits of Rhinog Fawr, Rhinog Fach and Y Llethyr.

According to the Joint Nature Conservation Comitee (JNCC) Rhinog SAC is an excellent representative of upland European dry heaths in Wales. On shady slopes, the site contains what is considered to be the best development of H21 Calluna vulgaris � Vaccinium myrtillus � Sphagnum capillifolium heath outside Scotland. Other NVC types represented include H8 Calluna vulgaris � Ulex gallii, H10 Calluna vulgaris � Erica cinerea, and H12 Calluna vulgaris � Vaccinium myrtillus heaths. The site also contains high-quality examples of old sessile oak woods. This woodland is continuous with that in the adjacent Meirionnydd Oakwoods and Bat Sites, and is best considered with that site.

General site character

Inland water bodies (standing water, running water) (1%)
Bogs. Marshes. Water fringed vegetation. Fens (5%)
Heath. Scrub. Maquis and garrigue. Phygrana (75%)
Dry grassland. Steppes (8%)
Humid grassland. Mesophile grassland (3%)
Improved grassland (3%)
Broad-leaved deciduous woodland (4%)
Inland rocks. Screes. Sands. Permanent snow and ice (1%)

The Rhinogs are also designated as a Biological Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) which covers 3289.5 hecters and a National Nature Reserve which covers an area of around 598 hecters.

Historic Landscape

The Ardudwy Historic Landscape

The Rhinogs are part of the Ardudwy Historic Landscape, an area where natural forces and human activity acting together over the last six thousand years have contributed to produce a landscape of great beauty and variety, and is considered a national asset that is essential both to Wales�s national identity and to its individual 'sense of place' and well-being.

In the upper parts of the range there are few signs of past human, with the exception of one or two isolated late prehistoric hut circles in the northern part of the area. The three main paths through the range follow traditional routes, which have been in use since at least the Middle Ages. The two northern ones lead out of Cwm Bychan (Bwlch Gwilym in the north and Roman Steps/Bwlch Tyddiad, while the other carries on from Cwm Nantcol and goes over Bwlch Drws Ardudwy.

On the slopes of the range, the evidence of human activity is much stronger, an archaeological survey of the Moelfre and Mynydd Llanbedr upland area found dozens of sites of archaeological interest of all periods, from early prehistoric cairns and standing stones, hut circles and enclosures, clearance cairns, mounds long huts, building foundations, sheepfolds, mining remains, peat cuttings and many more ephemeral stone features. This plethora of evidence indicates occupation and human exploitation of this remote areas has taken place (not necessarily continuously) over the last three or four millennia.

In the north-western region, along the lower slopes of Moel Ysgyfarnod and Foel Penolau, there is evidence that in the later prehistoric period the main focus of occupation was on the fringes of the upland, on the better- drained, west-facing hill slopes with numerous settlements of various forms surviving where modern agriculture has not been too intensive. These sites consist of a hillfort on Moel Goedog with other remains concentrated between Moel-glo and Coetty-mawr, with outlying single huts at higher altitudes around Bryn Cader Faner. There is also evidence of small nucleated Bronze Age settlements and associated field systems all along the hillsides at Maes-y-caerau and Moel y Geifr.

Although the valleys of Cwm Bychan and Cwm Nantcol contain relatively little prehistoric evidence due to more intensive farming practices, there are number of features dating from the medieval period. The important, sub-medieval house of Maesygarnedd dominates the end of the Nantcol valley and is associated with John Jones (1597?-1660), who was the brother-in-law of Oliver Cromwell and one of the signatories of the death warrant of Charles I.

Cwm Bychan also has a fine example of a sub-medieval, two-unit storied house: it is recorded as one of the homes of the patrons of the bards and thus was one of the principal houses of Ardudwy at that time. Several pasture fields surround it. Further down the valley are a few scattered farmsteads (e.g. Dolwreiddiog, Cwm-yr-afon, Crafnant and Hen Dolbebin) which date from the 17th to 19th centuries. All along the upland area and valleys there are stonewalls built during the 17th to19th centuries and are the most visible aspect of the Rhinogs archaeological history.

Climbing

Summer Climbing

Although its crags are not as accessible as many of Snowdonia's climbing spots, the Rhinogs contain a plethora of good climbing routs for those who don't mind a bit of a walk in. Below is a brief summary of some of the more accessible locations in the Range as described by www.midwalesclimbing.co.uk and the Climbers Club guide book for Meirionnydd:

Cwm Bychan

From the car park there are a series of walls facing westwards which can be approached reasonably easily without once losing sight of your goal. Here you'll find a series of routs graded from HVS to E5, and on the plateaux above and behind them are dotted several easy extremes many of which have obvious lines and even at E1/2 are open to a solo approach.

Roman Steps

Following from the Cwm Bychan car park these steps lead up the hill through Bwlch Tyddiad and give access to several apparent and several hidden walls. A quick search up here will reveal some of the secrets on both sides of the Steps. Around halfway along the Steps on the northern side of the valley there is a rock face which is seamed with cracklines, the best of these is Araf Nawr (E3) whish is on the right hand side. To be found a quick walk along the bottom of this wall is Best Friends Buttress split by a great, wide, unclimbed crack. Best Of Friends (E3) offers some fun direct climbing on perfect rock with good gear. Also to be found at this location is some of the best bouldering in the range.

Llyn Du

On the eastern margin of Llyn Du on some north facing slabs is the route Rock Steady (E3) first climbed by Martin Crocker in the 1990s, and is well worth your attention.

Llyn Du

Llyn Morwynion

Just hidden to the north of Bwlch Tyddiad is the small pond of Llyn Morwynion (Maidens Lake). Along its eastern shores a north facing wall contains a number of routs following the natural features of the crags, some of which are as hard as E5. Also on the south side is Y Clawydd, a classic leaning wall again facing northwards with immaculate compact grit and some hard E3 and E4 lines. Just west of Y Clawdd is a single square wall slabby to start and sheer to finish with the neat On Honeymoon with My Chicken Muscle (E2) taking the centre of the slab.

Craig Bodlyn

Located in this area are some of the most challenging climbs in the Rhinogs, with the highest crags reaching over 100m in places.

Along the main crag the Man is Fauna at E4 and Mass Extinction can be found, the former taking the central pillar while the other takes the great face to its right both running the full 100 metres of the cliff. The adjoining steep wall to the right has another two hard routes but even more attractive is the Silver Wall further along the shore where there are six hard routes at E6 and above. There are also many short slabs and faces ranging between 5 and 10 metres high and ranging from Hard Severe to E5, too be found above the Silver Wall which have had solo ascents.

Cwm Nantcol

The crags of Cwm Nantcol have the advantage of being the easiest to access in the Rhinog Range, with only a short walk from the roadside needed to reach them.

Rhinog Fawr (left) and Rhinog Fach (right)

A pleasant collection of routes can be found at at Gareg Lwyd (SH 672 272), graded from severe they follow the crack systems in the slab for 22 metres. At the centre of the right hand section of the slab is High Man Slapper (E4), which can be approached via a hand traverse in from the left. Also to be found in this region is Jason's Route (E2), an extremely enjoyable ar�te and corner and is one of only two routes added by Jason Cooper in a rare visit in 1990. Around 200m to the right is a collection of walls and pillars, to be found here are a couple of direct lines graded at E1 and HVS, but above these on the hillside are some gems. Four E3 solos take the various clean slab lines with the central slab harbouring The One; another Mr Crocker test piece, an E7 6b solo on excellent rock with some errant rocks waiting on the ground.

Towards the end of the road in the main valley, then following the footpath for 20 minutes up towards the Drws brings another complex of pillars and boulders within easy reach. The 20 metre face on the right end of the complex is home to some more classic Rhinog lines. See how you feel after Hanged, Drawn and Quartered (E4) up the clean right wall. Nearly all the walls and slabs at 5 metres and above have had attention and the delights of the wealth of quality solos in this valley alone will continue to unfold.

This is just a selection of the many areas in the Rhinog that have been extensively developed.

Winter Climbing

Although the Rhinogs proximity to the sea make suitable winter conditions rare, it is worth noting that there are a number of winter routs that can be done near Llyn Bodlyn (SH 650 237). The routs available are mostly graded as V, however for the slightly less experienced there is also a grade III which ascends the side of Diffwys. For more information read Welsh Winter Climbs (Cicerone Guide) by Malcolm Campbell and Andy Newton

A conversion table of climbing grades is available here

The Welsh Language

The Rhinogs lie in the heart of 'Y Fro Gymraeg' (The Welsh Region), the are of Wales where the Welsh language and culture are strongest. The language is widely spoken in the area, according to the 2001 census more than 62.5% of the population of Gwynedd speak Welsh. Generally the more rural and isolated the village or town is the stronger the language will be. Visitors to the Rhinogs will therefore definitely hear the language being spoken at some point.

Although every welsh speaker also speaks English, if you use a bit of Welsh in conversation it will go a long way. Below are a number of Welsh words and phrases that could come in handy:

Helo: Hello
Hwyl fawr: Good bye
Os gwelwch yn dda: Please
Diolch: Thank you
Bore da: Good morning
Prynhawn da: Good afernoon
Noswaith dda: Good Evening
Nos da: Good Night
Sut Mae?: How are you?
Da iawn diolch: Very well thank you
Mae'n ddrwg gen i: I'm sorry
Ble mae'r Ty bach?: Where is the toilet?
Hoffwn i ymddiheuro am tywallti dy peint, beth allai gael i chi?: I would like to apologise for spilling your pint, what can I get you?
Deoddwn i ddim yn edrich ar eich wraig/merch!: I wasn't looking at your wife/girlfriend!

Ok, your probably not going to need the last few.

Getting There

The eastern part of the range can be accessed via the A470 which runs from Dolgellau to Conwy and Colwyn bay. The west can be reached by the A496, which runs along the coast from Llanulltyd near Dolgellau to Blaenau Ffestiniog in the north.

The area can also be reached by rail, however getting from the stations to the mountains themselves can be difficult as public transport is pretty infrequent and hitching can be a nightmare.

Red Tape

There is no red tape however it is worth checking the countryside access map provided by the Countryside Council for Wales (CCW) regarding whether or not any restrictions on movement in the area are in place.

Countryside Access Map

Camping

There are a number of campsites that surround the range, the best situated, but also most basic is a campsite at Cwm Bychan (SH 644 313) in the heart of the mountains and in easy distance from both Rhinog Fawr and Fach. Other nearby campsites can be found at Cae Gwyn Farm (SH 713 297) to the east of the range, and Merthyr Farm (SH 600 319) to the west.

Campsites, hostels, hotels and B&Bs can also be found at all of the larger neaby towns e.g. Porthmadog, Harlech, Dolgellau, and Barmouth; as well as in some smaller villages along the coast e.g. Dyffryn Ardudwy, Llanbedr and Coed Ystymgwern.