"I must not pass over in silence the mountains called by the Welsh Eryri, but by the British Snowdon, or the mountains of Snow, which... seem to rear their lofty summits even to the clouds" Geraldus Cambrensis, Itinerarium Cambriae (1288)

Overview

The Snowdonia National Park (Parc Cenedlaethol Eryri), established in 1951, was among the first areas in Britain to be designated a National Park. The Park covers an area of 2,132 square km (823 square miles) and has over 60km of coastline. It is the largest of Wales� National Parks, and the second largest in the UK stretching from the Carneddau in the north to the Dyfi Estuary in the south. The landscape is characterised by mountains and upland plateaux intersected by deep glacially ploughed valleys, and is home to Snowdon, or Yr Wyddfa in Welsh, the highest mountain in England and Wales. The nine mountain ranges cover approximately 52% of the Park, many of which exceed 3000 feet in altitude including Snowdon, the Carneddau and the Glyders.

The English name for the Park takes its name form its highest mountain Snowdon, while the Welsh name is thought to mean either �land of the eagles� or simply �highland�. Traditionally before the establishment of the National Park the name was only given to the area around the highest mountains in the north.

Snowdon from Crib Goch (Photo by JoeHarris)

The Landscape

Snowdonia has some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in Britain with the Carneddau, Glyders and Snowdon in the north stretching to Cadair Idris in the south. In all there are more than 90 summits over 2,000 feet and 15 0ver 3,000. The northern mountains are steep and rocky, characterised by many magnificent cliff faces, buttresses, ridges and ar�tes. In the south the mountains are more rounded and less rocky in appearance, however they are often much wilder and less visited than their northern counterparts and have a unique atmosphere of their own.

The landscape of Snowdonia is as varied as it is spectacular. Although the area is famous for its mountains, it also contains a multitude of other natural and semi-natural environments. The valleys and gougers display a mixture of pastoral farmland and plantations of both deciduous and coniferous woodlands. Parts of this woodland are remnants of the natural woodlands that covered the whole of Wales since the end of the last ice age and contain a mixture of oak, Birch, ash, mountain-ash and hazel. The Parks coastline has been designated a Special Conservation Area (SAC), stretching from the Lleyn peninsula in the north to the Dyfi Estuary in the south, and is characterised by long sandy beaches and sand dunes.

The Ranges

The primary attraction that draws people to the National Park is its mountains and Snowdonia is home to many beautiful ranges, each with their own individual character and charm. The park contains a wide diversity of mountain types from the steep and rocky ridges and ar�tes of Snowdon and the Glyders to the rolling heather clad hills of the Rhinogs. There are also large areas that are relatively flat including the remote Migneint Plateau and the bogs and marshes that surround the Arenig Mountains.

The Glyders from Clogwyn y Person, Snowdon. The mountains from left to right: Y Garn (947m), Pen-yr-Ole Wen (978m; background), Glyder Fawr (999m), Glyder Fach (994m), Crib Goch (923m) and Moel Siabod (872m; background). Photo by Nanuls

Snowdon Group

More of a range than a single mountain Snowdon is host to several subsidiary peaks including Crib Goch, Lliwedd, Garnedd Ugain and Yr Aran. The summit is located in the centre of the range and radiates six fabulous Ar�tes each separated by deep Cwms and beautifully clear glacially carved lakes. The range has some of the finest climbing, scrambling, and hiking in the whole of Britain.

Its beauty and fame make it one of the busiest mountains in the UK, each year around 350,000 visitors reach the summit, arriving either on foot or via the Snowdon Mountain Railway. There are many routes to Snowdons summit and range in difficulty from easy plods, through to fun scrambles and challenging multi-pitch climbs. The most popular route is the Llanberis path and is usually teeming with tourists, however much quieter ascents can be found for the experienced mountaineer notably from Cwm Glas Mawr.

Carneddau

The Carneddau are located in the northern part Snowdonia. The range is the largest area of high ground in England and Wales comprising some 7 summits over 3000 feet. The range comprises a long mountain ridge with surrounding grass and moorland and a number of beautiful valleys providing excellent hillwalking, rock climbing and (unreliably) in season ice climbing and ski touring.

The Carneddau are typicall of British uplands comprising rolling hills, craggy in some places, soft and rounded in others covered in rock, heather and grassland and are populated with welsh mountain sheep, wild ponies, buzzards and other birds of prey, foxes, rabbits, hares, stoats and adders.

Glyderau

The Glyderau comprise a large elongated upland plateaux stretching from Mynydd Llandegai to Capel Curig, and include five of Wales's fifteen summits over 3000 feet; these include Tryfan, considered one of the finest mountains in Wales and one of the few mountains on the British mainland requiring scrambling to reach the summit. The eastern half of the range in particular, including Glyder Fawr, Glyder Fach, Y Garn, Elidr Fawr and Tryfan, is very popular with walkers and climbers.

Perhaps the most spectacular mountain of the range is Tryfan its distinctive rocky, blade-like shape dominates the view from Nant Francon, from every direction it shows off nothing but steep crags and striking ridges. It is said that it is impossible to climb this mountain without using ones hands.

Eifionydd/Nantlle

These mountains are located to the west of Snowdon and are some of the least visited of all the ranges within the National Park. The main part of the range is centred around the Nantlle Ridge, however the highest peak can be found just to the south in the form of Moel Hebog. Despite their close proximity to the hugely popular Mount Snowdon the Eifionydd only receive a fraction of the visitors. This might be due to the fact there is relatively little good climbing anywhere in the range, however there is some quality scrambling and the walks that cross its ridges are extremely rewarding for those who choose to leave the beaten track.

Moelwyns

The Moelwyns make up the central mountain range of Snowdonia and extend from the north-east of Porthmadog to Bwlch y Rhediad, separating them from Moel Siabod. The landscape varies from remote wilderness to semi industrial and contain within them many disused quarries and ruins associated with the Slate mining industry that went into decline towards the middle of the 20th century. The main summits are Moel Shiabod, Moelwyn Mawr, Moelwyn Bach, Cnicht and Moel yr Hydd.

Arenigs

One of the wilder ranges in Wales, the Arenigs comprise of three peaks Arenig Fawr, Arenig Bach and Moel Llyfnant. The mountains rise steeply from the relatively subdued surrounding countryside which is made up of a mixture of rough moorland and bog.

The only mountain frequently visited in the area is Arenig Fawr, with the most popular route only taking in the northerly part of the mountain. At the summit is a trig point and a memorial to the US air-crew of a Flying Fortress bomber which crashed on Arenig Fawr in 1943 with the loss of all crew. Moel Llyfnant and Arenig Bach are rarely visited, however their roleing slopes hold beauties of their own.

Arans

The Arans are the most easterly mountain range located within the boundary of the National Park. The mountain range comprises of a long broad ridge running from the shores of Llyn Bala in the North to Dinas Fawddwy in the south. The main peaks are Aran Fawddwy, Aran Benllyn and Glasgwm.

There are numerous routes to the summit from all directions, with the most popular route starting in Cwm Cywarch. On the ridge that connects Aran Fawddwy to Drysgol there is a Monument to a man from the RAF Mountain Rescue Service who was tragically killed by lightening in 1960.

Rhinogs

The Rhinogs is one of Wales' wildest and least visited mountain ranges. The range stretches some 20 km from north to south with the highest peaks found in the southern half of the range. The mountains from which the range takes its name, Rhinog Fawr and Rhinog Fach, are not in fact the highest, as to the south Y Llethr reaches and Diffwys reaches. Despite their marginally lower height, by far the most spectacular peaks are Rhinog Fach, and Rhinog Fawr. The summits are quite rocky and afford excellent views of the whole range.

The northern half of the range is characterised by a series of rocky, heather clad terraces, intersected by a series of shallow gorges and small lakes. The highest points in the northern half are Moel Ysgyfarnod, and Foel Penolau. It's quite possible to walk all day without meeting a single other person, and that is something quite uncommon within the Snowdonia National Park.

Rhobell Group

The area around Rhobell Fawr is surrounded by a number of lesser tops including Rhobell Fach and Drosgl. Rarely visited, the area has few paths and is characterised by thick heather and scattered crags and boulders. Although unremarkable in their shape and stature the mountains in this area are in the unique position of being able to offer views of the whole of Snowdonia.

Cadair Idris

Often mistaken as being a single mountain, Cadair Idris is in fact a large plateaux topped by several minor summits including Pen y Gadair and Mynydd Moel. The range displays some magnificent glacially carved cwms, flanked by steep cliffs that are popular with both scramblers and climbers. Legend has it that anyone who spends the night on the summit of Pen y Gadair will either become a poet, go blind or die by the morning.

Tarrens

The most southerly range in Snowdonia the Tarrens consist of a series of rounded grassy hills conected by a series of broad ridges. In the northern part of the range much of the land is covered by coniferous forest with the peaks protruding above the tree line. The main mountains are Tarren y Gesail (667m), Tarrenhendre (633m) and Tarren Cwm Ffernol (544m)

Dyfi

The Dyfi Hills are a series of grassy hills flanked by a series of steep rocky cliffs on their northern slopes. Like the Tarrens which are located to the south west much of the Dyfi Hills are covered by coniferous forest. The main summits are Maen Du (674m), Waun Oer (670m) and Cribin Fawr (659m).

Berwyns

Although strictly speaking the bulk of the Berwyn Range is located outside the National Parks boundary, many of itslower promontory peaks are, and Snowdonia does make an excellent base to visit them from. The mountains consist of an isolated ridge stretching in a north-south direction and is home to three major summits, Cadair Bronwen, Cadair Berwyn, and Moel Sych.

The Mountains

Cwm Idwal (Photo by BigLee)

Aran Fawddwy (Photo by Phillip Stasiw)

Carnedd Dafydd (Photo by tphubbard)

Cadair Idris (Photo by Phillip Stasiw)

Crib Goch (Photo by Nanuls)

Snowdon (Photo by mtnbiker converted)

Tryfan (Photo by Jans Man)

Moel Siabod (Photo by tphubbard)

Cadair Berwyn (Photo by daveyboy)

Fire made them, earth clothed them, man found them, our playmates, the princess of hills.

Obviously the mountains themselves are the most important aspect of the Snowdonia National Park. The area is home to many famous and iconic peaks such as Snowdon and Tryfan, and has been the playground of many famous climbers including George Mallory, Edmund Hillary, Don Whillans and Joe Brown. This table lists all of Snowdonias mountains and promontory peaks that exceed 2000 feet in altitude.

No.	Name	Metres	Feet	Range	Grid Reference
1.	Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa	1,085	3,560	Snowdon	SH 609 543
2.	Garnedd Ugain/Crib y Ddysgl	1,065	3,495	Snowdon	SH 610 551
3.	Carnedd Llywelyn	1,064	3,490	Carneddau	SH 983 644
4.	Carnedd Dafydd	1,044	3,424	Carneddau	SH 662 630
5.	Glyder Fawr	999	3,279	Glyders	SH 642 579
6.	Glyder Fach	994	3,262	Glyders	SH 656 583
7.	Pen yr Ole Wen	978	3,210	Carneddau	SH 655 619
8.	Foel Grach	976	3,202	Carneddau	SH 688 658
9.	Yr Elen	962	3,156	Carneddau	SH 673 651
10.	Y Garn	947	3,107	Glyders	SH 630 595
11.	Foel Fras	942	3,091	Carneddau	SH 696 681
12.	Garnedd Uchaf	926	3,037	Carneddau	SH 687 669
13.	Elidir Fawr	923	3,029	Glyders	SH 611 613
14.	Crib Goch	923	3,027	Snowdon	SH 624 551
15.	Tryfan	915	3,002	Glyders	SH 663 594
16.	Aran Fawddwy	905	2,970	Arans	SH 862 224
17.	Y Lliwedd	898	2,946	Snowdon	SH 622 533
18.	Pen y Gadair	893	2,929	Cadair Idris	SH 611 130
19.	Aran Benllyn	885	2,904	Arans	SH 867 242
20.	Moel Siabod	872	2,861	Moelwyns	SH 705 564
21.	Erw y Ddafad Ddu	872	2,860	Arans	SH 865 234
22.	Mynydd Moel	863	2,830	Cadair Idris	SH 726 136
23.	Arenig Fawr	854	2,801	Arenigs	SH 826 369
24.	Llwytmor	849	2,785	Carneddau	SH 688 692
25.	Pen yr Helgi Du	833	2,733	Carneddau	SH 697 630
26.	Foel Goch	831	2,727	Glyders	SH 628 611
27.	Carnedd y Filiast	822	2,696	Glyders	SH 620 627
28.	Cyfrwy	811	2,660	Cadair Idris	SH 703 133
29.	Y Foel Goch	805	2,642	Glyders	SH 677 582
30.	Pen Llithrig y Wrach	799	2.622	Carneddau	SH 615 623
31.	Bera Mawr	794	2.604	Carneddau	SH 674 682
32.	Craig Cwm Amarch	791	2.595	Cadair Idris	SH 710 121
33.	Moel Hebog	782	2.566	Eifionydd/Nantlle	SH 564 469
34.	Glasgwm	779	2.557	Arans	SH 836 194
35.	Moelwyn Mawr	770	2.527	Moelwyns	SH 658 448
36.	Drum	770	2,526	Carneddau	SH 708 696
37.	Gallt yr Ogof	763	2,503	Glyders	SH 658 585
38.	Drosgl	758	2,487	Carneddau	SH 663 680
39.	Y Llethr	756	2,480	Rhinogs	SH 661 258
40.	Moel Llyfnant	751	2,464	Arenigs	SH 808 351
41.	Diffwys	750	2,462	Rhinogs	SH 661 234
42.	Yr Aran	747	2,451	Snowdon	SH 604 515
43.	Craig Cwm Silyn	734	2,408	Eifionydd/Nantlle	SH 525 502
44.	Rhobell Fawr	734	2,408	Rhobell	SH 786 256
45.	Moel Eilio	726	2,382	Snowdon	SH 555 577
46.	Rhinog Fawr	720	2,362	Rhinogs	SH 656 290
47.	Rhinog Fach	712	2,335	Rhinogs	SH 664 270
48.	Moelwyn Bach	711	2,333	Moelwyns	SH 660 437
49.	Trum y Ddysgl	709	2,326	Eifionydd/Nantlle	SH 544 526
50.	Allt Fawr	698	2,290	Moelwyns	SH 681 474
51.	Mynydd Mawr	698	2,290	Eifionydd/Nantlle	SH 539 546
52.	Mynydd Drws y Coed	695	2,280	Eifionydd/Nantlle	SH 549 518
53.	Cnicht	689	2,262	Moelwyns	SH 645 566
54.	Foel Hafod-fynydd	689	2,260	Arans	SH 826 227
55.	Arenig Fach	689	2,259	Arenigs	SH 820 415
56.	Gwaun y Llwyni	685	2,248	Arans	SH 857 204
57.	Pen y Brynfforchog	685	2,247	Arans	SH 817 179
58.	Gau Graig	683	2,240	Cadair Idris	SH 743 140
59.	Creigiau Gleision	678	2,224	Carneddau	SH 728 615
60.	Moel Druman	676	2,217	Moelwyns	SH 671 476
61.	Maesglasan - Maen Du	675	2,213	Dyfi	SH 822 151
62.	Moel Cynghorion	674	2,210	Snowdon	SH 586 563
63.	Ysgafell Wen	672	2,204	Moelwyns	SH 666 480
64.	Foel Rudd	671	2,201	Eifionydd/Nantlle	SH 547 544
65.	Waun-oer	670	2,197	Dyfi	SH 785 147
66.	Carnedd y Filiast	669	2,196	Arenigs	SH 871 445
67.	Ysgafell Wen - G.	669	2,195	Moelwyns	SH 633 485
68.	Tarren y Gesail	667	2,189	Tarrens	SH 710 059
69.	Cyrniau Nod	667	2,188	Berwyns	SH 988 278
70.	Y Dduallt	662	2,172	Rhobell	SH 810 273
71.	Graig-las	661	2,168	Cadair Idris	SH 677 135
72.	Cribin Fawr	659	2,161	Dyfi	SH 794 153
73.	Moel yr Ogof	655	2,148	Eifionydd/Nantlle	SH 556 578
74.	Mynydd Talymignedd	653	2,142	Eifionydd/Nantlle	SH 535 513
75.	Foel Cwm Sian Llwyd	648	2,125	Berwyns	SH 995 313
76.	Penyboncyn Trefeilw	646	2,120	Berwyns	SH 962 283
77.	Llechwedd-llyfn	643	2,109	Arenigs	SH 588 444
78.	Moel Lefn	638	2,094	Eifionydd/Nantlle	SH 553 485
79.	Creigiau Gleision G.	634	2,080	Carneddau	SH 733 622
80.	Tarren Hendre	634	2,080	Tarrens	SH 683 039
81.	Foel Gron	629	2,063	Snowdon	SH 560 568
82.	Y Garn	629	2,063	Rhinogs	SH 702 330
83.	Foel y Geifr	626	2,054	Arans	SH 937 278
84.	Moel y Cerrig Duon	625	2,049	Arans	SH 923 241
85.	Moel Ysgyfarnod	623	2,044	Rhinogs	SH 658 345
86.	Craig-y-llyn	622	2,040	Cadair Idris	SH 665 119
87.	Pen yr Allt Uchaf	620	2,034	Arans	SH 867 193
88.	Foel Boeth	619	2,031	Arenigs	SH 778 344
89.	Foel Penolau	614	2,014	Rhinogs	SH 661 345
90.	Llechwedd Du	614	2,013	Arans	SH 893 223
91.	Foel Goch	613	2,010	Arans	SH 943 290
92.	Tal y Fan	610	2,000	Carneddau	SH 729 726

Lakes

Llyn Tegid (Photo by JoeHarris)

There are well over a hundred lakes more than an acre in size in Snowdonia, from LLyn Ogwen in the north to Tal y Llyn in the south. The largest is Lake Bala (Llyn Tegid in Welsh) which is also the largest natural body of water in Wales. At its maximum extent it is 6.4km (4 miles) long and 1.6km (1 mile) wide. The lake is teeming with aquatic life and has abundant pike, European perch, trout, eel, and uniquely to Snowdonia, the Gwyniad. It also contains the very rare mollusc Myxas glutinosa - the Glutinous snail. According to legend the lake is inhabited by a monster known affectionately as Teggie. Typically it is likened to a crocodile or small plesiosaur and there have been many reported 'sightings' since the 1920�s.

Another of Snowdonias largest and most famous lakes in Llyn Trawsfynydd a large man-made reservoir located near the village of Trawsfynydd. It covers an area of 1180 acres and as such is larger than Llyn Tegid. The lake was originally created in 1928 to supply water for Maentwrog hydro-electric power station, and was later also used to supply cooling water to Trawsfynydd's twin reactor nuclear power station, used for the commercial generation of electricity for the UK National Grid. Despite the lakes size it is actually relativly shallow throughou,t and is consequently one of the areas warmest bodies of water. Snowdoias lakes are often busy with water sports enthusiasts with canoeing, sailing, swimming, and on the larger waterbodies motorboating all taking place. There are several watersports centres within the park the most prestigious being Plas y Brenin, which holds courses on Llynau Mymbyr near Moel Siabod, and Gwersyll yr Urdd Glan-llyn, which has a centre on the shores of Llyn Tegid.

Rivers

Afon Colwyn (Photo by Nanuls)

Owing to Snowdonias designation as a national park its rivers are clear, unpolluted and teeming with aquatic life. Flowing west into Cardigan Bay are the Afon Glaslyn (which flows from Snowdons northern cwms), the Afon Mawddwch (which has its source to the north of Rhobell Fawr), and the Afon Dyfi (which runs from the eastern slopes of Aran Benllyn). Flowing north into the Irish Sea are the Afon Gwyrfai and Afon Rhythallt which both have their sources on Snowdon; the Afon Ogwen which is fed by waters from the Glyders and the Carneddau; and the Afon Conwy which winds its way from the Migneint Plateau and out onto the broad river plain of Dyffryn Conwy. Among the fish that can be found in these rivers are the Brown Trout, Salmon, and Sewin (Sea trout), all sought after by fishermen and anglers, as well as a plethora of smaller fish and eels, creating some remarkably diverse biospheres. Birdlife is also in abundance along their banks with herons, kingfishers, swans, geese and numerous species of ducks all taking advantage of the food they provide.

Waterfalls

Pistyll Rhaeadr (Photo by daveyboy)

Along its many beautiful rivers Snowdonia hides some of Britain�s most spectacular waterfalls. The highest and most famous of these is Pistyll y Rhaeadr on the Afon Disgynfa, which at 75 m (240 ft) is also the highest waterfall in Wales. Its name in Welsh means �Spring of the Waterfall� and is located just to the south of Moel Sych in the Berwyn Mountains, around 6km north west of the village of Llanrhaeadr-ym-Mochnant. The falls are counted as one of the Seven Wonders of Wales and has been designated as Britain�s 1000th Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) by the Countryside Council for Wales (CCW), for its importance to Welsh geology. The 19th century English author George Borrow remarked of the waterfall, �I never saw water falling so gracefully, so much like thin, beautiful threads, as here�. Although the waterfall falls outside the National Parks boundary it is only a few kilometre away, and within the geographical area of Snowdonia.

Geology

The main structural feature of Snowdonia is of course the broad belt of rugged mountains that runs diagonally across it through the mountain groups of the Carneddau, Glyderau and Snowdon. It corresponds with the complex downfold of Ordovician rocks known as the Snowdon syncline. To the south of the Snowdon area is the geological structure known as the Harlech dome, a folded sequence of lower Palaeozoic rocks forming the thickest and most complete sequences of Cambrian, Ordovician and Silurian strata to be found anywhere in Europe.

The oldest rocks (Pre-Cambrian) in the region are found to the North West on the island of Anglesey. They consist of metamorphosed sedimentary and volcanic rocks over 6000m thick, highly deformed by earth movement. Lower Palaeozoic rocks mark the development across the area of a great depositional trough in which accumulated thousands of metres of marine sediments. The lower rocks (Cambrian) rest unconformably on the older formations. This trough marks the establishment of a sedimentary basin that covered all of Wales, much of England, parts of Ireland and extended into Belgium. The basin was situated on the edge of a continental mass which lay to the south-east, with the Iapetus Ocean on the north-west.
At the end of the Cambrian, slight uplift exposed the erosional deposits, and a new period of submergence during the Ordovician, led to more deposition and more unconformity. Volcanic activity is the outstanding feature of the Ordovician period. Vulcanism spread throughout the region and eventually culminated in eruptions of central Snowdonia giving birth to Snowdon, the Glyders and the Carneddau. This volcanic activity coincided with the continued deposition of marine sediments and was a prelude to the later closure of the Iapetus Ocean.

The bedrock geology of Snowdonia

Though volcanic activity ceased at the end of the Ordovician, marine sedimentation continued into the Silurian. At the end of the Silurian, earth movements culminated in the Caledonian orogeny, a major period of uplift, folding and fracturing which partly destroyed the marine trough and resulting in the closure of the Iapatus Ocean and the resultant continent-continent collision. The Lower Palaeozoic seas retreated from North Wales and the strong earth-movements transformed the landscape, and the marine rocks of the Cambrian, Ordovician and Silurian periods were replaced by the continental rocks of the Devonian period. Subsequent erosion has revealed the major Caledonian structures such as the Snowdon syncline and the Harlech dome.

The Devonian period is followed unconformably by strongly transgressive Carboniferous rocks. The marine transgression in the Carboniferous covered most of North Wales with only the highest mountains probably remaining unsubmerged as islands. A second period of major earth movement (Hercynian) affected the Carboniferous and older rocks, with the main movements occurring along existing fractures. Apart from Pleistocene and recent sediments, no post Hercynian sedimentary rocks are found in Snowdonia.

During the Tertiary era, North Wales was situated at the edge of a landmass which was undergoing uplift in relation to the development of the North Atlantic Ocean. The uplift of the landmass during the Tertiary resulted in intensive erosion of overlying rocks, exposure of the Lower Palaeozoic rocks forming the Snowdon syncline and Harlech dome, and development of an upland plateau. The uplift resulted in the dominant primary drainage directions of the North Wales area. The river systems formed part of an extensive drainage system draining the uplifted continent towards the south-east.

A perched erratic on striated bedrock

The denudation of the mountains and the carving out of the valleys took place in stages. In parts of Snowdonia, imperfect plateau surfaces occur, probably the result of erosion controlled by higher base levels (river erosion). They were primarily developed by river erosion controlled by an intermittently falling base level (rejuvenation). Some of the plateau surfaces (below 180m) are thought to have been marine cut and end abruptly as if along a cliff line. The low-level coastal platforms are definitely pre-glacial and the whole series of erosion plateau surfaces indicate a falling base level in the Tertiary period. The higher surfaces are thus older than the lower ones and are less well preserved.

Rivers in the Tertiary rejuvenation, exploited structural weaknesses and created some river capture, which in turn caused more rejuvenation. All evidence now points to the fact that the Snowdon area was deeply dissected by rivers attempting to grade themselves to a succession of lower base levels, down to levels less than 60m above sea level. Although glaciers have considerable deepened the valleys and later-glacial rivers also, the main valleys and mountain outlines were already in existence prior to the Pleistocene glacial phases.

The modern physical landscape and geography of Snowdonia mainly reflects the influence of intensive glacial erosion during the Pleistocene epoch. During the late Pleistocene glacial phase, a large British Ice Sheet developed in response to global cooling. This ice sheet developed by coalescence of several ice centres, one of which was centred in North Wales. Welsh ice was centred on the Migneint plateau and the Arenig Mountains with outlet glaciers radiating from that centre. These outlet glaciers carved fairly extensive glacial trough valleys, some good examples are the valleys of Nant Ffrancon and Llanberis/Nant Peris.

Deposits were dredged in frozen conditions from the floor of the Irish Sea by ice approximately 700m thick. During phases of more severe climatic conditions, Welsh ice quickly spread over the coastal plains and south Anglesey preventing the Irish Sea ice from advancing. Erratics from the mainland have been recorded on the west of Anglesey, so the coast was subject to Welsh and Irish ice at different times, thus tills of both are found. During this period the tops of the highest peaks protruded above the ice sheet as nunataks, with large areas around Snowdon, the Glyders and the Carneddau undergoing extensive periglacial weathering.

The majority of glacial landforms found beyond the mountain areas were last formed or modified during the last glacial maximum approximately 18,000 yrs BP (Dimlington Stadial). The freshest glacial deposits and landforms plus those found in high mountain areas were last formed/modified during the last glacial even (Loch Lomond Stadial or Younger Dryas) approximately 11,000 - 10,000 yrs BP. Snowdonia is an area which once supported local glaciers during the Loch Lomond Stadial. Glaciers emerged from the cwms and were channelled down existing valleys (carved during the previous glacial phases), and in a few cases carved out new ones.

The post-glacial landscape evolution has largely developed through landscape adjustments especially isostatic rebound (uplift), slope modification and coastal processes (including sea-level rise).

Wildlife

With Snowdonias diverse landscape and extensive range of habitats, ranging from high mountains to wooded valleys, winding rivers, crystal clear lakes and sandy coastline, it is unsurprising that the area supports communities of flora and fauna which are of international and national importance.

In order to protect the areas distinctive wildlife around 20% of the National Park is specially designated by UK and European legislation. About half of that area has been selected by the Government under the European Habitats Directive as a number of Special Areas of Conservation (SACs). These cover areas on Snowdon, the Glyders, Carneddau, Arans, Arenigs and Rhinogs.

A Mountain Goat (Photo by igneouscarl)

Possibly the most famous plant that grows in Snowdonia is the aptly named Snowdon Lily, one of the arctic alpine plants found in the high peaks, and is unique to Snowdon and the Snowdonia hawkweed. So too is the equally appropriately named Snowdon or Rainbow Beetle. Three areas - the Dyfi Estuary Biosphere Reserve, Cwm Idwal and Llyn Tegid are RAMSAR Sites which are wetlands of international importance listed and protected under a UN directive. The entire coast and marine environment below low water mark has been selected for designation as a Marine Special Area of Conservation and is therefore strictly protected under the EC Habitats Directive.

One of Snowdonias many flowers

There are 17 National Nature Reserves within the Parks boundary; more than in any other National Park in England and Wales; and 56 Sites of Special Sites of Scientific Interest (SSSI). In Llyn Tegid, the largest natural lake in the Wales, lives another Snowdonia rarity, the Gwyniad, a unique sub-species of the European white fish, trapped in the lake at the end of the last Ice Age over 10,000 years ago.

Probably the most noticeable animal presence in the park is its sheep, which have been farmed in the region for hundreds of years. There are also numerous other animals that share the mountain slopes including rabbits, brown hares, and foxes. In the moist, heavily vegetated lower slopes and woods slow-worm, toads, frogs, mice, voles and shrews can all be found. Present, but rarely seen, are two of Snowdonias most elusive mammals the pine-martin and polecat which are seldom seen before sunset. On the higher mountain slopes goats cling to the steepest most exposed precipices.

Bird life is in abundance throughout the region with a multitude of songbirds including tits, finches, jays, blackbirds and thrushes all sharing the trees and bushes of Snowdonias valleys. On higher ground birds of prey patrol the skies including peregrine falcons, kestrels and buzzards. The park is also blessed with the presence of a number of rare raptors, there is a healthy colony of Sea Ospreys inhabiting Cwm Cneifion in the southern Mowlwyns; and the once almost extinct red kite can be found around the Dyfi Estuary area.

One of the major problems facing the park in recent years has been the growth of Rhododendron ponticum particularily in the area to the south and south east of Beddgelert. The species was introduced from Portugal and Spain during the 19th century as an ornamental plant in the gradens and estates of the local gentry. This fast growing alien species has a tendency to take over and stifle native species from growing. It can form massive towering growths and has a companion fungus that grows on its roots producing toxins that are poisonous to any local flora and fauna for a period of up to seven years after the Rhododendron infestations have been eradicated.

Conservation

Protected Sites in Snowdonia

The UK has a responsibility to ensure the conservation and enhancement of habitats and species in both a national and international context. One approach to achieving this is the establishment of a system of protected sites. The national suites of sites providing statutory protection for flora, fauna, or geological or physiographical features are Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSIs) (Areas of Special Scientific Interest (ASSIs) in Northern Ireland) and Marine Nature Reserves (MNRs). As well as underpinning other national designations (such as National Nature Reserves), this system also provides statutory protection for terrestrial and coastal sites which are important within Europe (Natura 2000 network) and globally (such as Wetlands of International Importance). Further designations exist for sites outside of the national suite (such as Local Nature Reserves), varying in the level of protection afforded. Apart from designations for sites with particular natural features, there are also landscape designations which aim to protect areas of either national (e.g. Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty) or international (e.g. natural World Heritage Sites) significance in terms of their outstanding scenic importance.

Because Snowdonia has such a rich natural heritage and wide variety of habitats much of its landscape is protected by both national and international legislation. There are over 200 Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) within, and in close proximity to, the Parks boundary. An SSSI is a conservation designation denoting a protected area within the UK, and may be designated for a wide number of reasons based on their merits as areas of scientific interest. Sites may be notified due to their biological or geological interest and a minority of sites are notified for both. SSSIs are the basic 'building block' of nature conservation legislation and most other legal nature/geological conservation designations are based upon them, including National Nature Reserves, Ramsar Sites, Special Protection Areas, and Special Areas of Conservation.

Main Environmental Stresses in Snowdonia

Snowdonia also has around 15 National Nature Reserves (NNR), which are in effect the next line of protection for nationally important environmental areas. NNRs are usually designated for their broader ecological value rather than for the presence of any rare species. There are however a number of sites which hold important numbers of scarce or rare species. A number of factors may contribute to the designation of a NNR. These may include; how fragile a site is, the size of the site, how 'natural' the site is and the presence of species rich communities. The NNR network represents almost every kind of vegetation type found in the UK.

There is also a large number of sites protected under international law. Special Areas of Conservation and Special Protection Areas are part of the Natura 2000 Networks of sites and are therefore strictly protected under European law. Special Areas of Conservation (SACs) are strictly protected sites designated under the EC Habitats Directive. Article 3 of the Habitats Directive requires the establishment of a European network of important high-quality conservation sites that will make a significant contribution to conserving the 189 habitat types and 788 species identified in Annexes I and II of the Directive (as amended). The listed habitat types and species are those considered to be most in need of conservation at a European level (excluding birds). Of the Annex I habitat types, 78 are believed to occur in the UK. Of the Annex II species, 43 are native to, and normally resident in, the UK.

Special Protection Areas (SPAs) are strictly protected sites classified in accordance with Article 4 of the EC Directive on the conservation of wild birds (79/409/EEC), also known as the Birds Directive, which came into force in April 1979. They are classified for rare and vulnerable birds, listed in Annex I to the Birds Directive, and for regularly occurring migratory species. In the UK, the first SPAs were identified and classified in the early to mid 1980s. Classification has since progressed and a regularly updated UK SPA Summary Table provides an overview of both the number of classified SPAs and those approved by Government that are currently in the process of being classified (these are known as potential SPAs, or pSPAs).

Some of Snowdonia�s best examples of wetland areas have also been listed as Ramsar sites; a type of protection especialy designed for wetlands of international importance designated under the Ramsar Convention. Sites proposed for selection are advised by the UK statutory nature conservation agencies, or the relevant administration in the case of Overseas Territories and Crown Dependencies, co-ordinated through the Joint Nature Conservation Committee (JNCC). In selecting sites, the relevant authorities are guided by the Criteria set out in the Convention. The UK also has a national Ramsar Committee composed of experts who provide further advice.

Special Areas of Conservation

There are 12 SACs in Snowdonia, some of which cross over the boundary and into neighboring regions. Combined they cover an area of 78805.45 ha (just over 788 square km) and cover a variety of environments from wetlands and rivers to mountain summits. The Lleyn Peninsula and Sarnau Marine SAC also borders the Park and adds another 146023.48 ha (over 1,460 square km) to the total area of SACs within the parks area.

Site Name	Area (ha)	Grid Reference
Afon Eden � Cors Goch Trawsfynydd	284.29	SH 720 271
Afon Gwyrfai a Llyn Cwellyn	114.29	SH 547 561
Berwyn a Mynyddoedd de Clwyd/ Berwyn and South Clwyd Mountains	27221.21	SH 917 280
Cadair Idris	3785.05	SH 704 132
Coedydd Aber	346.2	SH 664 713
Coedydd Derw a Safleoedd Ystlumod Meirion/Meirionnydd Oakwoods and Bat Sites	1832.55	SH 660 386
Eryri/ Snowdonia	19737.6	SH 695 658
Migneint�Arenig�Dduallt	19968.23	SH 816 440
Morfa Harlech a Morfa Dyffryn	1062.57	SH 567 328
Pen Llyn a`r Sarnau/ Lleyn Peninsula and the Sarnau	146023.48	SH 401 130
Rhinog	3144.53	SH 649 297
River Dee and Bala Lake/Afon Dyfrdwy a Llyn Tegid	1308.93	SJ 423 503

Special Protection Areas

Snowdonia has only 4 SPAs however on average an individual SPA covers a much larger area than an SAC. The total area covered by SPAs that fall within the parks boundaries totals 46 266.87 ha (over 460 square km).

Site Name	Area (ha)	Latitude	Longitude
Berwyn	24187.53	52 50 19 N	03 36 20 W
Craig yr Aderyn (Bird`s Rock)	89.26	52 38 30 N	04 00 05 W
Dyfi Estuary/Aber Dyfi	2048.11	52 32 39 N	03 59 00 W
Migneint�Arenig�Dduallt	19968.23	52 58 38 N	03 46 56 W

Ramsar Sites

Several of Snowdonias wetland sites (which also fall within SACs) are also of enough importance to be listed as Ramsar sites. The three sites cover a total area of 24593.13 ha (over 245 square km).

Site Name	Area (ha)	Latitude	Longitude	Grid Reference
Cors Fochno and Dyfi	2492.24	52 32 21 N	03 59 52 W	SN 645 954
Llyn Idwal	13.51	53 06 55 N	04 01 29 W	SH 645 595
Llyn Tegid	478.08	52 53 04 N	03 37 28 W	SH 907 332

Climate

Looking west over Cadair Idris (Photo by Nanuls)

Due to the mountainous nature of the area and its close proximity to the Irish Sea, on the whole Snwodonia receives a greater volume of rainfall that other regions in Wales and England. The months from October to January are significantly wetter than those between February and September, unlike places in south-east Scotland or in the English Midlands where July and August are often the wettest months of the year. It is often cloudy with average annual sunshine totalling less than 1,100 hours. Mean daily sunshine figures reach a maximum in May or June, and are at their lowest in December. Given the mountainous nature of the country and its proximity to the sea, hill fog can be both extensive and frequent and is a potential hazard to be borne in mind by walkers, climbers and mountaineers.

There is a close relationship between surface isobars, wind speed and direction over open, level terrain. However, local topography also has a very significant effect, with winds tending to be aligned along well-defined valleys. The strongest winds in Snowdonia are associated with the passage of deep depressions across, or close to, Wales; these are most frequent during the winter months, when gales are most frequent. These depressions are usually at their most intense over the open Atlantic Ocean, the strongest winds being observed over the summits of hills and mountains.

Over Snowdonia the mean annual temperature at low altitudes varies from about 9.5 �C to 10.5 �C, with the higher values occurring around or near to the coasts. The mean annual temperature decreases by approximately 0.5 �C for each 100 m increase in height so that, on this basis, Snowdon (at 1,085 m) would have an annual mean temperature of about 5 �C.

In winter, temperatures in the area are influenced by those of the surface of the sea, which reach their lowest values in late February or early March. Around the coasts February is thus normally the coldest month, but inland there is little to choose between January and February as the coldest month.

Some of the highest winter temperatures in the British Isles have been recorded in North Wales. These high winter temperatures (up to 18 �C on occasion) occur when a moist south to south-easterly airflow warms up downwind of Snowdonia after crossing the mountains, an effect known as the f�hn after its more dramatic manifestations in the Alps. July is normally the warmest month in Wales, and the highest temperatures of all have occurred furthest away from the cooling influence of the Atlantic.

Owing to Snowdonias close proximity to the sea snow is comparatively rare. On average the number of days each year when sleet or snow falls in Snowdonia totals over 40 and the average number of days where snow lies on the ground exceeds 30.

The following section displays the weather in each of the major towns in and around the Snowdonia area.

Weather Forecast | Weather Maps | Weather Radar | Hurricane Center

The Welsh Language

Snowdonia lies in the heart of 'Y Fro Gymraeg' (The Welsh Region), the area of Wales where the Welsh language and culture is strongest. The language is widely spoken in the area, according to the 2001 census more than 62.5% of the population of Gwynedd speak Welsh. Generally the more rural and isolated the village or town is the stronger the language will be. Visitors to the area will therefore definitely hear the language being spoken at some point.

Although every welsh speaker also speaks English, if you use a bit of Welsh in conversation it will go a long way. Below are a number of Welsh words and phrases that may come in handy:

Welsh Speakers

Helo: Hello
Hwyl fawr: Good bye
Os gwelwch yn dda: Please
Diolch: Thank you
Bore da: Good morning
Prynhawn da: Good afternoon
Noswaith dda: Good Evening
Nos da: Good Night
Sut Mae?: How are you?
Da iawn diolch: Very well thank you
Mae'n ddrwg gen i: I'm sorry
Ble mae'r Ty bach?: Where is the toilet?
Hoffwn i ymddiheuro am tywallti dy peint, beth allai gael i chi?: I would like to apologise for spilling your pint, what can I get you?
Deoddwn i ddim yn edrich ar eich wraig/merch!: I wasn't looking at your wife/girlfriend!

Ok, you�re probably not going to need the last few.

Practical Information

Getting There

Cwm Glas

Llanberis Pass

Getting to Snowdonia is easy thanks to an excellent network of road and rail links. The easiest way into the area is from the north via the A55 which runs between Liverpool and Holyhead. There are numerous exits off this road into the northern mountains with major junctions at Conway (SH 806 774), Bethesda, Bangor (SH 593 695) and Caernarfon (SH 482 625).

If travelling from the east then the A5 runs to Bettws y Coed (SH 794 565) in the northeast, or Bala (SH 925 359) can be reached by turning off the A5 near Maerdy. Bettws y Coed makes an excellent base for visiting the Carneddau and Bala is near the Arans, Arenigs and Berwyns.

If travelling from the south then Dolgellau (SH 728 179) can be reached via the A458 to Mallwyd, and turning off onto the A470. Dolgellau makes an excellent location for visiting the areas southern mountains including Cadair Idris and the Rhinogs.

Snowdonia can also be reached by rail, the main line stopping at Bangor (SH 575 716), Caernarfon (SH 481 624), Bettws y Coed (SH 795 565), Blaenau Ffestiniog (SH 700 458), Porthmadog (SH 565 391) and Harlech (SH 580 314). From Caernarfon the Welsh Highland Railway runs a steam train service to Rhydd-Ddu where trailheads for Snowdon and the Eifionydd are found. There is also a steam train service operating between Porthmadog and Blaenau Ffestiniog. A new line is currently being constructed between Rhyd-Ddu and Porthmadog, which will run via Beddgelert and Tremadog (SH 562 400), and link all the major towns and villages in Snowdonia by rail.

Throughout the summer the Snowdon Sherpa bus service, which has various mountain stops around the area, runs from Llanberis, Bettws y Coed, Caernarfon, Beddgelert, Bethesda, and Porthmadog. Be sure to check timetables first as you don't want to end up missing the last bus and find yourself stuck, of course in these situations hitching is always an option.

Red Tape

There is no red tape however it is worth checking the countryside access map provided by the Countryside Council for Wales (CCW) regarding whether or not any restrictions on movement in the area are in place.

Countryside Access Map

Mountain Rescue

Wales has fourteen Mountain rescue services, seven of which operate in the Snowdonia area. They are mostly staffed by local volunteers and funded primarily by public donations. They operate with the assistance of local Police, and in serious situations an RAF helicopter from RAF Valley. The West Wales Air Ambulance also helps out when necessary. The services work is not just restricted to mountain and wilderness rescue; often teams are utilised by the local police to search for missing or vulnerable persons in the community. The Mountain rescue services are:

Aberglasyn MRT
HM Coastguard MRT 83
Llanberis MRT
North East Wales Search and Rescue
North Wales Cave Rescue Organisation
Ogwen Valley Mountain Rescue Organisation
South Snowdonia SART
Search and Rescue Dog Association

In emergency situations Mountain rescue services can be contacted by ringing one of the UKs standard emergency service numbers: 999 or 112

When To Climb and Essential Gear

Snowdonia is busiest from late Spring to early Autumn and some mountains can get very busy. Snowdon in particular gets very busy due to the Snowdon Mountain Railway that takes tourists to the mountains summit. Although the weather is usually warm throughout the summer showers are common, and full waterproofs and quality walking boots are essential for all expeditions.

Clogwyn y Person

In winter the area is much quieter as most tourists prefer to visit the area when it's warm. In winter conditions an ice axe must be carried and if an attempt is to be made on the harder scrambles a helmet, crampons and a rope are also all essential. For true winter routes specialist winter and ice climbing equipment is necessary and owing to the unpredictable conditions of snow and ice on the mountain these lines should only be attempted by those with experience of winter mountaineering techniques. Despite the areas comparitivly low altitude it can get very cold with temperatures dropping to near Arctic levels, many inexperienced walkers and climbers have been caught out in these conditions most are rescued safely by mountain rescue teams however occasionally the consequences are more serious, and every year casualties occur.

Camping and Accommodation

Due to the fact that Snowdonia has been designated a National Park there is an abundance of accommodation available throughout the area.

Wild Camping: The Law in England, Scotland and Wales

Tents cannot be pitched just anywhere because every piece of Britain is owned by some individual or some organisation and according to the strict letter of the law permission must be obtained prior to pitching tent and camping.

In practice however, this is often impractical and wild camping is usually tolerated in the more remote areas - typically, more than half a day's walk from an official campsite or other accommodation providing you: