An ice climbing and bouldering destination,Joes Valley, is located on the eastern edge of the Wasatch Plateau (photos)and near the Northern San Rafael Swell, is actually made of several features. Ranging from about 5,500 ft to 9,600 ft, the place we climbers call "Joes Valley" refers many parts of this sweet, secluded, backwoods place.

Geographically it can be separated into four logical parts:
~Joes Valley proper
~Straight Canyon aka Left Fork
~Cottonwood Canyon aka Right Fork
~Grimes Wash aka New Joes

Ferron Ranger District of the Manti-La Sal National Forest is the government management agency.

Joes Valley proper is a 75-mile long "graben" containing Joe's Valley Reservoir. This valley floor has dropped some 3000 feet below the surrounding plateau. It is the most prominent of several grabens on the Wasatch Plateau.

So. Tent Mtn. is a Wasatch Plateau highpoint found near Joes Valley.

Joes Valley proper

Though hunting, fishing, and ATV's are common ways to enjoy this area, it all would seem a random place for self-propelled outdoor enthusiasts were it not for its early climbing pioneers. Certainly well-known locally, Joes Valley has long provided some of the best ice in Utah, and the western US. Joes has also provided some of the best bouldering known in Utah, making Joes a year round destination.

Left Fork (Straight Canyon)

Wasatch Plateau

Joes Valley's geology, like much of Utah, is made of sandstone layers, with cliff bands, gullys, and huge fallen boulders featuring the landscape. These particular layers have been uplifted and hugely eroded on their eastern edge. In the rain shadow of the higher western Wasatch Plateau, the climate is still a classic continental one, with dry conditions prevailing throughout the year, only 20-60cm or precipitation annually: it's cold in the winter, and hot in the summer. Due to the altitude, there is plenty of snow in the winter.

New Joes, Grimes Wash, and Area 51 Boulders

The Left Fork (Seely creek)and Right Fork of Cottonwood Creek meet at the bottom of Straight Canyon. Cottonwood Creek flows through a valley floor of sagebrush, juniper, cottonwood, and piñon, all shaded by the canyon’s towering sandstone walls. Better still, Cottonwood Creek is one of Utah’s lesser-known tailwater fisheries. Flowing east out of Joes Valley Reservoir, the creek runs relatively narrow and straight, as the canyon’s name suggests. At its narrowest, you can boulder hop across; at its widest, it may be all of 40 feet from bank to bank. These waters flow through a veritable minefield of boulders that lend the creek its character and uniqueness. These natural obstacles, in a variety of shapes and sizes, direct and concentrate the creek’s otherwise fairly shallow flow into pockets and pools unlike those in any other fishery found in Utah.

ALSO CLOSE BY IS THE BEAUTIFUL HUNTINGTON CANYON.

GUIDE BOOKS

Dave Black rapping Deadbolt

cool white stare

New Joes Area 51

Dave Black's Ice Climbing Utah book, describes why Utah climbers like Mugs Stump, Doug Coats, Brian Smoot, and himself, have not only loved climbing here, but have made it popular.

A Bouldering Guide to Utah, also shows why boulderers wind up here, like these folks in bouldering gangs in Utah's coal mining epicenter.

This Downloadable Bouldering Guide by DrTopo.com is a great, free addition to these other guides.

The Mountain Project Page: The best site for Joes bouldering info!!! It has route descriptions for boulder problems and some other good stuff.

Joes Valley Video Guide: Put together by Nathan Cando, this reviews 28 of the best problems, and shows what Joes is like.

ICE ROUTES

The variety of ice routes in Joes is awesome. It's not the Canadian Rockies, but is worth a weekend or two. And, a climber can even come alone and hop on something within her/his ability, enjoying a full day of soloing WI3 & under. Experts manage to stick it out there as well on the several 5's and 6's found throughout the area.

Keep in mind: This is a developed ice cragging area, with bolts, etc. where needed. If you're looking for bolts you'll find them, if you don't find them, that means natural features are used instead. The majority of the climbs are single pitches, or, are separate steps with easy climbing or walking in between. The climbs are found on a variety of aspects, elevations, and angles. Many of the climbs are found in Straight Canyon and most moderates are hidden for the sun and have yearround water , so they get super-duper fat. Many of the harder climbs are found on the south facing slope in Straight canyon. Mary's Lake and Slide Lake routes are well beyond the end of the plowed road and are north and east facing routes (the page author has olny been there once in winter, but check this out.

Deadbolt WI4

Bushdiver

Donorcicle

Approaches:
The majority of the approaches are merely a short walk, some add a stream crossing, requiring less than 20 minutes total. This varies of course, and does not apply at all to the Slide and Mary's lake areas. (I'll be adding directions to Mary's and Slide's climbs later, meantime, just grab the guidebook).

All descriptions of climbs here should include in the approach section a mile mark at which to park or at which the climb is located. An example would be Deadbolt parking at mark mark 7.4. The mile marks begin high and get lower as you head up into Joes valley proper, and head around the lake to the far west side.

Descents:
These are generally only bolted where needed, with trees, walk offs, and scrambles also in the mix. V threads are not needed for the most part, and starts and belays are on flat, safe, and protectable ground.

Season:
Ice will begin to form in mid-November, though if coming from anywhere but SLC, I'd suggest waiting until December for it to really get going. The season ends in spring, with CCC falls, Melty Way, and a few others remaining fat due to their low angle. Remember ice shoulder seasons can be supplemented with bouldering and other local climbing/exploring.

I will be adding a table with descriptions, photos, etc., at some point, but for now, a list of the climbs will have to do. This list is from down canyon (the first you come to) to up canyon (the last you come to).

Straight Canyon(Left Fork) and Joes Valley Climbs are as follows:

1. Masterlock WI2 1500'
2. Deadbolt aka The Highway to Heaven WI4-5 3000'
3. Premadonna aka Primadonna WI5 500'
4. Unnamed WI4-5 200'
5. Slip-slidin Away aka Suprise Party WI4-5 200'
6. Spear of Fear WI5-6 200'
7. Bushdiver aka Smaug WI3-4 800-900'
8. Tyrannosaurus WI2-3 600'
9. The Amphitheather WI6 200'
10. Pterodactyl WI3 200-400'
11. Wolfenstein aka Melty Way WI4-5 200'
12. Unnamed WI5 150'
13. CCC Falls WI4 450' (there's a restroom at the boatramp across the street)
14. Donorcicle WI5 100'

Slide Lake and Mary's Lake Climbs are as follows:
(An overview photo from Melty Way)

Slide Lake Climbs:(here's a topozone map with the Slide Lake climbs as the center)
15. Screw the Dog WI3 700'
16. Kill the Dog WI3-4 800'
17. San Perdo Journey WI3-4 900'
18. The Incredible Hulk WI3 1000'
19. Skin the Dog WI3 600-700'
20. Flush Again WI4 900'
21. The Spiral Shit Smear WI4 1000'+
22. Northern Light WI2 1200-2000'

Mary's Lake Climbs: (here's a topozone map with Mary's lake as the center)

23. Rabbit Stew WI3 60'
24. Steppy WI3-4 80-100'
25. White Spider WI4 80-100'
26. Thunderbolt and Lightfoot WI5 140'
27. Cool White Stare WI4 160'
28. Dirty Blond WI4 150'
29. Alzcleimbers WI5 140'
30 Round the Corner WI3-4 150'

LEFT FORK BOULDERING

The Rail, Riverside Boulders

This area is the main canyon that heads up to the reservoir in which Highway 29 is located. It has tons of bouldering, and has several of the most popular boulders/problems.

(I will be developing a list of boulder areas (each with its own page) with photos of each, and would encourage others to help build these pages. Just PM me and I'll attach what you have or will work with you to develop corresponding pages.)

The areas listed below are all within the Left Fork, from down canyon to up canyon, and will be blue if they have a corresponding page.

1. Crack Boulder
2. Mining Cart
3. Trent's Mom
4. Right Sign Area
5. Eden
6. The Sand Box
7. Big Joe
8. Riverside

RIGHT FORK BOULDERING

Black Mountain Mine.

This is known locally as Cottonwood Canyon, and is accesssed by Cottonwood Canyon Road. This canyon contains the best camping (see the Camping section), and is where SLCA has put portable outhouses. There is some private property up high in the canyon at the Black Mountain Mine and other places near there so stay on public land please.

(I will be developing a list of boulder areas (each with its own page) with photos of each, and would encourage others to help build these pages. Just PM me and I'll attach what you have or will work with you to develop corresponding pages.)

The areas listed below are all within the Right Fork, from down canyon to up canyon, and will be blue if they have a corresponding page.

1. Boy Size
2. Gun Shot
3. Man Size
4. Black & Tan Fast Twitch
5. Warm Up
6. Small One
7. UMWA Boulder
8. Buoux
9. All Area
10. No Substance Area
11. Dark Canyon
12. Jitterbug
13. Minute Man Area
14. Moby Dick Area
15. Lower Hillside
16. Upper Hillside
17. The Hulk

NEW JOES BOULDERING

New Joes, Nerve Damage

This area is locally known as Grimes Wash. Although still accessed by Hwy 29 from Orangeville, this is a separate canyon that flows into the same main watershed. This area

(I will be developing a list of boulder areas (each with its own page) with photos of each, and would encourage others to help build these pages. Just PM me and I'll attach what you have or will work with you to develop corresponding pages.)

The areas listed below are all within the New Joes Area, and will be blue if they have a corresponding page.

1. Area 51
2. Self Service
3. Big Raod Boulders
4. 88+ Boulders
5. Anarchy
6. Closet
7. Chip and Dale
8. Tsunami
9. The Cube
10. Bone Garden
11. Sand Box
12. Nerve Damage
13. Chubby, salsa, Edge Boulders
14. Fuchsia Area

COMMUNITY:

Food Ranch: guidebooks, veggies, and propane, . . .

(Momma always said) Respect the local scene. Land Managers are locals, and ice climbers and boulderers are some of the only out-of-towners during several months every year. There is currently no climbing management, except that which is brought by the climbers themselves. Note that this area has a lot of unmarked private (unposted) land. And has a large LDS (Mormon) community, and most folks work for the mining industry. Please give climbers a good reputation by respecting the local economy and way of life, and save spewing your 'Under the Banner of Heaven' stories for another time.

The Search and Rescue group, all locals, have told me they pick up climbers every year.

SPENDING MONEY LOCALLY: ( its a great way to give climbers a good name)

FOOD RANCH, the local grocery store and gas station in Orangeville, has everything you'd expect in a smalltown store: greasy deli quick bites, Campbell's, meats, beer, veggies, etc., and also carries some camping stuff (propane, ice fishing gear, tarps, and the like). You can also fill up on gas. Food Ranch employees are great sources of information, and they currently have for sale several copies of the bouldering guide visible by the register.

CHICKS (THE BAR) in Orangeville will make you feel right at home. I've actually stayed in the homes of folks I've met there. They seemed cool, and their mining stories were WAY cool. Even if you don't drink, there's great pool tables and friendly atmosphere here. It's east of the Food Ranch on the same main road, Utah 29.

R PIZZA a place in CASTLEDALE has reasonable prices and a huge pies for appeasing the post climbing hunger. Its near the Alco and Stewart's stores on the east end of town. Its an old gas station lookin place.

Castledale also has Big Mamas, and Orangeville has Barnes Grill (near the high school on Hwy 10)

During hunting season, seriously, wear orange if hiking/skiing backcountry: Cheney could be out there.

GETTING THERE

From Price take Utah 10 to Huntington, go through Huntington, and at about 5 minutes after Huntington turn right on Utah 29, which will take you to Orangeville and Joes Valley. Just after you drive passed the high school you'll see CHICK'S on your right (this is the BAR), then down a small hill you'll see Food Ranch on your right. Just passed Food Ranch you'll come to a T, go right to Joes Valley. Signs point the way. After 2 miles or so, you'll come to HWY 57. Taking a right here leads you to New Joes at its mile maker 10.

The Right Fork and Left Fork split is obvious. From that point use the guide books to find the climbs. Again, remember that mile marks along the road are what is used by both this page and the guidebook as well. Guidebook authors deserve to get paid, especially since they keep the area developed as well.

JOE'S VALLEY MARINA INTERACTIVE MAP FOUND HERE.

CAMPING & ACCOMODATIONS

HEADING UP TO THE SPLIT OF RIGHT AND LEFT FORK

KEEP IN MIND:
Don't trespass and Do close gates: There are three areas of homes/cabins within Joes Valley proper. One of these is now officially owned by the Joes Valley Marina and Resort and in A Bouldering Guide to Utah is referred to Luke's (the old owner). It is an area of cabins and trailers between the Donorcicle and CCC falls. All of the cabins in Joes are summer cabins, with the exception of one family living in the Reeder Subdivision in the Upper Joes/Lowry Water area (near Reeder Cyn.). It is by no means shot to kill, but please do respect the locals. Most cabins are owned by families that live in Emery and Carbon Counties.

Ranchers and energy/mining companies own a lot of land that appears vacant, like at the fork of Right and Left canyons, and nearly all of the accesses for new joes are on permitted land as well. Know whether or not you are on private/leased property. Another rule is to close gates behind you, cattle are expensive to replace and its actually illegal to not close gates (you can be fined).

Salt Lake Climbers’ Alliance has donated some latrines for us up in the Right Fork (Cottonwood Canyon) that will be there as long as funding permits. These are at the Mansize and Buoux camping areas in the Right Fork.
Please Donate $ HERE for the project. These are there intermittently as of right now.

CAMPING

Please note that the SLCA is organizing with the Forest Service a plan to create camp grounds here. Meantime be clean, follow low impact guidelines, and bring your own wood (Collecting wood is illegal). For human waste, it would be best to use the toilets provided by the SLCA and up at the reservior, or a "groover" bucket, and dump that elsewhere. If that's not an option for you please take care to bury poop and burn toilet paper in the fire. We all will be using this area for a long time to come.

Left Fork (Straight Canyon)

Just passed the Forest Service signs at the entrance to Straight Canyon (Left Fork) there is a large pullout where kayakers commonly camp (about .1 miles from the fork in the road for Left and Right forks). This is really the best spot in Straight Canyon to camp. There is a small camp prior to these signs on the opposite side of the road that can be used, though it is congruous with private property, and there are also some other small pullouts that really aren’t worth it, considering the 'good' camping in Right Fork Mansize and Buoux areas.

Right Fork:

This canyon has several areas to camp, the best of which are Mansize area(1.0 miles from the fork) and Buoux area (2.3 miles from the fork). Currently SLCA is sponsoring the “got poop?” portapotties at these two areas. There are a few other pullouts and random spots to camp.

New Joes:

Don’t camp here please.
There are already access issues with this area due to an oil pump, and there are (were? where'd those go?) SLCA signs that point you in the right direction for parking in this sensitive area. The the oil pump road (at mile marker 10) is gated and off limits, and please do not park on that road. Go, instead further up the road (~.8 miles to the cairns) Thanks.

Upper New Joes

Joes Valley Reservior:
The far side of the reservir has a camp ground that has 7 sites open yearround. In the winter they are open and you dont have to pay, although the bathrooms and water spickes are closed after mid-Oct. The Marina parking lot on the far (west) side on the reservoir is not officially a camping area, but may be a winter option because it is usually plowed in winter and fits a good amount of vehicles. The county road that heads right (south) just before the Marina can be followed out passed the end of the lake. Through the fence (passed the Mary's lake turn off), you might find a flat, pullout to park and camp. Do not camp on or near Private Property. Remember, be cool; this isn't Indian Creek, where climbers rule the scene.

The Forest Service campground is not open in the winter.

Restrooms are provided at the campground, and at the boat launch near CCC Falls. The campground is in a desert setting, with hot and dry climate, at an elevation of 7,000 feet. Campground roads are paved and there is a paved parking area. Indian Campground, in upper Joes Valley (closed in winter) has 12 camp sites and pit bathrooms.

Above the lake at higher altitudes, there are mountains, meadows and smaller lakes. There are many unmarked camping sites available in the mountains on Forest Service ground a few miles above the reservoir. If visiting in the Summer, make a point to go to the lake and swim. camping up in the mountains is also doable if continuing up from the Right Fork Bouldering areas.

HOTELS AND B&B:

The San Rafael Bed and Breakfast, 15 E 100 N Castle Dale, UT 84513
(435) 381-5689

Village Inn Motel, 355 E Main St., Castle Dale, UT 84513
(435) 381-2309‎

Village Inn Motel, 307 South Main Street, Huntington, UT 84528
(435) 687-9888‎
(435) 687-9887‎

L I N K S:

Northern San Rafael Swell is a 1 hour side trip

Salt Lake Climbers' Alliance does much of the work and are liasons with the Forest Service for local climbing projects and development.

Joes Valley Mountain Project Page: one of the best sites on the net about this area.

The San Rafael Bed and Breakfast

Ferron Ranger District, Manti-La Sal National Forest page.

This Castle Country page. has a map that includes Joes with its neighboring, more dessert, red rock country.

Local Weather at Joes Reservior Here's their Joes Valley cam

Dave Black's Ice Climbing Utah book

iceclimbingutah.com great for conditions, reports, etc.

This Ice Climbing page has a video, map, and stuff. Good Pictures.
Mountainproject's Joes Valley page is perhasps even better, especially regarding bouldering. There's great ice and bouldering pics.

Joes Valley Resort

joesvalley.com

Utah National Forests' Wasatch Plateau Page

Go-Utah Wasatch Pleateau page

Utah Trails: a book for dirt road travel in Utah has this section about Joes.

Forest Service Geology points of interest page--'find the Mammoth'

buy this video about Joes bouldering

Mountain Project's Northern San Rafael Page: the Swell is what really makes this area special.

H I S T O R Y

Its really old. A big mammoth died nearby. Native Americans showed up. Mormans came. Mining started. Then the reservoir. The dead Mammoth was found. Recently the river otters got reintroduced, in perhaps 2007. Then climbers came.

Waterhistory.org has a great page about Joes Valley history.

This page has some history of Castledale, etc.

This page is a short history of Castledale, with some cool LDS references.

OTHER ACTIVITIES:

Kite Boarding:

On Skyline Drive, Accessed from Fairview on the west, or Huntington on the east, there is premeire kiteboarding terrain (also used by snowmobiles). Check this page for more info.

Kayaking:

The main creek in Straight Canyon below the dam is popular when they let the water out. see here.

Fishing:

This link has some quick fishing info.

As does this link

Utah fishing guidelines: note that you can't do underwater spearfishing here anymore;-)Though the reservoir contains rainbow and cutthroat trout, and splake.

Swimming hellsyeah

Improvements

I'll be working on making this page more user friendly, and better overall. If you have suggestions, etc., please DO make them. I'd love to hear Ideas on how to combine the bouldering and ice climbing on this page. Perhaps making sub-pages, with which I could use help for sure.

SPORT ROUTES

There are a hand full of sport routes in the area that I will be adding to the page eventually. For now, however, they'll remain quiet and sweet.

Images



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