Joes Valley, located on the eastern edge of the Wasatch Plateau (photos)and near the San Rafael Swell, is actually made of several features. Ranging from about 5,500 ft to 9,600 ft, the place we call "Joes Valley" refers to Straight Canyon, Cottonwood Canyon, Joes Valley, White Knoll, Cox Swale, and many other parts of this sweet, secluded, backwoods place. Joes Valley proper is a 75-mile long "graben" containing Joe's Valley Reservoir. This valley floor has dropped some 3000 feet below the surrounding plateau. It is the most prominent of several grabens on the Wasatch Plateau.

So. Tent Mtn. is a Wasatch Plateau highpoint found near Joes Valley.

Though hunting, fishing, and ATV's are common ways to enjoy this area, it all would seem a random place for self-propelled outdoor enthusiasts were it not for its early climbing pioneers. Certainly well-known locally, Joes Valley has long provided some of the best ice in Utah, and the western US. Joes has also provided some of the best bouldering known in Utah, making Joes a year round destination.

Joes Valley, like much of Utah, is made of sandstone layers, with cliff bands, gulleys, and huge fallen boulders featuring the landscape. In the rain shadow of the high western Wasatch Plateau, the climate is a classic continental one, with dry conditions prevailing throughout the year, only 20-60cm or precipitation annually: it's cold in the winter, and hot in the summer.

Seely Creek (south fork of Cottonwoon Creek) and Cottonwood Creeks meet at the bottom of Straight Canyon. Cottonwood Creek flows through a valley floor of sagebrush, juniper, cottonwood, and pi�on, all shaded by the canyon�s towering sandstone walls. Better still, Cottonwood Creek is one of Utah�s lesser-known tailwater fisheries. Flowing east out of Joes Valley Reservoir, the creek runs comparitively narrow and straight, as the canyon�s name suggests. At its narrowest, you can boulder hop across; at its widest, it may be all of 40 feet from bank to bank. These waters flow through a veritable minefield of boulders that lend the creek its character and uniqueness. These natural obstacles, in a variety of shapes and sizes, direct and concentrate the creek�s otherwise fairly shallow flow into pockets and pools unlike those in any other fishery found in Utah.

The Guide Books

Crimpers, oh, wait #2's

cool white stare

Ice Climbing Utah, Dave Black's book, describes why Utah climbers like Mugs Stump, Doug Coats, Brian Smoot, and himself, have not only loved climbing here, but have made it popular.

A Bouldering Guide to Utah, also shows why boulderers wind up here, like these folks in bouldering gangs in Utah's coal mining epicenter.

This Downloadable Bouldering Guide by DrTopo.com is a great, free addition to these other guides.

The Ice Routes

CCC Falls

Bushdiver

CCC Falls

The variety of ice routes in Joes is awesome. And, a climber can even come alone and hop on something within her/his ability, enjoying a full day of soloing WI3 & under. Experts manage to stick it out there as well on the several 5's and 6's found throughout the area.

The majority of the climbs are single pitches, or, are separate steps with easy climbing or walking in between. The climbs are found on a variety of aspects, elevations, and angles. Many of the moderates are found in Straight Canyon and are north facing. Many of the harder climbs are found on the south facing slope in the same main canyon. Mary's Lake and Slide Lake routes are well beyond the end of the plowed road and are north and east facing routes.

Approaches:
The majority of the approaches are merely a short walk, some add a stream crossing, requiring less than 20 minutes total. This varies of course, and does not apply at all to the Slide and Mary's lake areas. (I'll be adding directions to Mary's and Slide's climbs later, meantime, just grab the guidebook).

Descents:
These are generally only bolted where needed, with trees, walk offs, and scrambles also in the mix. V threads are not needed, and starts and belays are on flat, safe, and protectable ground.

I will be adding a table with descriptions, photos, etc., at some point, but for now, a list of the climbs will have to do. This list is from down canyon (the first you come to) to up canyon (the last you come to).

Straight Canyon and Joes Valley Climbs are as follows:

1. Masterlock WI2 1500'
2. Deadbolt aka The Highway to Heaven WI4-5 3000'
3. Premadonna aka Primadonna WI5 500'
4. Unnamed WI4-5 200'
5. Slip-slidin Away aka Suprise Party WI4-5 200'
6. Spear of Fear WI5-6 200'
7. Bushdiver aka Smaug WI3-4 800-900'
8. Tyrannosaurus WI2-3 600'
9. The Amphitheather WI6 200'
10. Pterodactyl WI3 200-400'
11. Wolfenstein aka Melty Way WI4-5 200'
12. Unnamed WI5 150'
13. CCC Falls WI4 450' (there's a restroom at the boatramp across the street)
14. Donor Sicle WI5 140'

Slide Lake and Mary's Lake Climbs are as follows:
(An overview photo from Melty Way)

Slide Lake Climbs:(here's a topozone map with the Slide Lake climbs as the center)
15. Screw the Dog WI3 700'
16. Kill the Dog WI3-4 800'
17. San Perdo Journey WI3-4 900'
18. The Incredible Hulk WI3 1000'
19. Skin the Dog WI3 600-700'
20. Flush Again WI4 900'
21. The Spiral Shit Smear WI4 1000'+
22. Northern Light WI2 1200-2000'

Mary's Lake Climbs: (here's a topozone map with Mary's lake as the center)

23. Rabbit Stew WI3 60'
24. Steppy WI3-4 80-100'
25. White Spider WI4 80-100'
26. Thunderbolt and Lightfoot WI5 140'
27. Cool White Stare WI4 160'
28. Dirty Blond WI4 150'
29. Alzcleimbers WI5 140'
30 Round the Corner WI3-4 150'

Think Locally . . .er. . . Celebrate diversity

mining is the local economy

Food Ranch: guidebooks, veggies, and propane

(Momma always said) Respect the local scene. Land Managers are locals, and ice climbers and boulderers are some of the only out-of-towners during several months every year. There is currently no climbing management, except that which is brought by the climbers themselves. Note that this area is largely LDS (Mormon), and most work for the mining industry. Please give climbers a good reputation by respecting the local economy and way of life, and save spewing your 'Under the Banner of Heaven' stories for another time.

The Search and Rescue group, all locals, have told me they pick up climbers every year. (boulderers probably, eh, I mean those crazy freaks have a ground fall every frickin time)

Spending money locally is a great way to give climbers a good name:

Food Ranch, the local grocery store and gas station in Orangeville, has everything you'd expect in a smalltown store: greasy deli quick bites, Campbell's, meats, beer, veggies, etc., and also carries some camping stuff (propane, ice fishing gear, tarps, and the like). You can also fill up on gas. Food Ranch employees are great sources of information, and they currently have for sale several copies of the bouldering guide visible by the register.

Chick's (THE BAR) in Orangeville will make you feel right at home. I've actually stayed in the homes of folks I've met there. They seemed cool, and their mining stories were WAY cool. Even if you don't drink, there's great pool tables and friendly atmosphere here. It's east of the Food Ranch on the same main road, Utah 29.

During hunting season, seriously, wear orange if hiking/skiing backcountry: Cheney could be out there.

Getting There

From Price take Utah 10 to Huntington, go through huntington, and turn right on Utah 29, which will take you to Orangeville and Joes Valley. Just after you drive passed the high school you'll see CHICK'S on your right (this is the BAR), then down a small hill you'll see Food Ranch on your right. Just passed Food Ranch you'll come to a T, go right to Joes Valley

Camping

Noone prefers folks camping on the road, especially the folks that live year round at the reservoir. This said, there are some camps mentioned in the bouldering guide. The Marina parking lot on the far (west) side on the reservoir is not officially a camping area, but is usually plowed and fits a good amount of vehicles. The county road that heads right (south) just before the Marina can be followed out passed the end of the lake and through the fence (passed the Mary's lake turn off), where you might find a flat, snowy pullout to park and camp. Do not camp on or near Private Property. Remember, be cool; this isn't Indian Creek, where climbers rule the scene.

The Forest Service campground is not open in the winter.
Restrooms are provided at the campground. There is a boat ramp nearby with additional parking. The campground is in a desert setting, with hot and dry climate, at an elevation of 7,000 feet. Campground roads are paved and there is a paved parking area. Indian Campground, in upper Joes Valley (closed in winter) has 12 camp sites and pit bathrooms.
Above the lake at higher altitudes, there are mountains, meadows and smaller lakes. There are many unmarked camping sites available in the mountains on Forest Service ground a few miles above the reservoir.

External Links

Buckhorn Wash is a 1 hour side trip

This Castle Country page. has a map that includes Joes with its neighboring, more dessert, red rock country.

Local Weather at Joes Reservior Here's their Joes Valley cam

Dave Black's Ice Climbing Utah book

iceclimbingutah.com great for conditions, reports, etc.

This Ice Climbing page has a video, map, and stuff. Good Pictures.
Mountainproject's Joes Valley page is perhasps even better, especially regarding bouldering. There's great ice and bouldering pics.

Joes Valley Resort

joesvalley.com

Utah National Forests' Wasatch Plateau Page

Go-Utah Wasatch Pleateau page

Utah Trails: a book for dirt road travel in Utah has this section about Joes.

Forest Service Geology points of interest page--'find the Mammoth'

buy this video about Joes bouldering

History:

The upper Joes Graben from Mary's Lake access

Its really old. A big mammoth died nearby. People came. Mining started. Then the reservoir. The dead Mammoth was found. Recently the river otters got reintroduced, in perhaps 2007.

Waterhistory.org has a great page about Joes Valley history.

This page has some history of Castledale, etc.

This page is a short history of Castledale, with some cool LDS references.

Other things besides climbing:

Fishing:

This link has some quick fishing info.

As does this link

Utah fishing guidelines: note that you can't do underwater spearfishing here anymore;-)Though the reservoir contains rainbow and cutthroat trout, and splake.

Improvements

I'll be working on making this page more user friendly, and better overall. If you have suggestions, etc., please DO make them. I'd love to hear Ideas on how to combine the bouldering and ice climbing on this page. Perhaps making sub-pages or somsing.

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