Vail is truly an amazing place offering world class ice and mixed climbing routes. Having been there several times, I have seen people from all over the world testing themselves on classic ice columns, drips, and mixed lines. Along with mega-classic steep ice lines, such as The Fang (WI5) and the Rigid Designator (WI5), Vail boasts some of the most classic mixed climbs in the lower 48. It is hard to believe that such poor rock, (comprised of friable calcified shales) has been at the forefront in the development of modern mixed climbing. With Jeff Lowe�s infamous ascent of Octopussy in the late 80�s, the world�s first consensus M8, it was clear that this amphitheatre had much to offer. Along with Lowe, later generations of climbers such as Will Gadd, Rich Purnell, and Eric Malmgren put up even harder test pieces. Continuing from the early 90�s until today, a slew of difficult routes such as Amphibian (M8-), Red Bull and Vodka (M8+), Fatman and Robin (M9), and even some double digit routes like Reptile (M10) and Somnambulist (M 11) speckle the cave with their bolts. Vails long routes requiring power and acrobatic technique have helped usher in the sport of modern mixed climbing.

Attacking a classic mixed line at Vail.

A more moderate mixed line, Cupcake Corner.

As leashless tools and fruit boots became common play, other areas around Vail like the �Secret Stash Area� have seen several difficult routes, (like Disco and Inferno both M10) put up in recent time. Even though very difficult and ground breaking climbing routes are found here in Vail, it is also unique in the fact that it offers ice and mixed climbing that is accessible to moderate climbers as well. Several areas have quality WI3-4 flows and there are several moderate mixed routes, such as Cupcake Corner (M5). With such a large variety of lines, easy access, rich history and a gorgeous setting, it is understandable why Vail has become such an important player in the sport of ice and mixed climbing.

Excerpt from R&I - Modern mixed climbing unofficially began in 1995 with Jeff Lowe's ascent of Octopussy (M8) right here in Vail. Arguably the first route to blend sport-climbing tactics with traditional ice and mixed climbing.

In 1997 the overhanging stone of Vail became the North American epicenter for the modern mixed movement. Routes like Amphibian and Fatman and Robin, then the pinnacle of difficulty, went up virtually overnight. Using bolts for pro and tools for hooks, mixed climbers began tapping the athleticism of the new sport, even practicing the routes in summer.

During the late 1990's, modern mixed routes tackled bigger, steeper roofs requiring more sustained movement. Gadd's Reptile, done here in 1998 became another groundbreaking line, hooking out a dead horizontal, thirty foot roof.

Rigid Designator Ampitheatre and The Fang. Photo © by Scott Borger

Getting There

Getting to Vail is simple. Take I-70 west from Denver, (about 100 miles if you start in Denver proper). Take the first exit to Vail, also called the E Vail exit, to access the most classic of the climbs, (i.e. Ridgid Designator Ampitheatre, Spiral Staircase Area, Pumphouse Area.) Take an immediate right off of the exit and take Frontage Road. Frontage Road will go back underneath the highway and continue towards the heart of Vail. Look for an obvious greyish building on the left called the Pumphouse. Parking is a hassle due to access issues, and it is best to arrive early on the weekend.

As of 2008 there seem to be conflicting signs at the Pumphouse parking lot talking about pay. I have never had an issue here and it is best to park here, where the trail is marked clearly for ice climbers. The trail/footpath follows along a groomed nordic ski trail system. There have recently been problems with non-skiers walking on and messing up the groomed ski tracks. Please be respectful and walk along the signed ice climbers trail. Occasionally you will have to cross the nordic ski track, but that is unavoidable and o.k. This trail system leaves the parking area and heads east along the base of the mountains. Its impossible to miss. Parking is no longer allowed in the residential neighborhoods east of the parking area. This is a sensitive subject to the residents of Vail so please respect their wishes so we don't lose access to this world class climbing area! As always, please be respectful towards others and stay on the designated ice climbers trail.

Map

Red Tape

The Fang!

It makes sense that more and more people want to climb in this world class area. In fact, I have been to Vail several times and have seen climbers from around the world getting their fill of classic Colorado ice. This however presents a problem with access issues. It is no longer acceptable to park near the homes at the beginning of the trail near the bridge. Let me stresss this again, DO NOT park in the streets or cul-de-sacs near the homes! Several home owners have already complained about this.

As of Dec. 2007, the best place to park is at the Pumphouse lot. You do not need to pay a fee to park here, even though some signs mention this. From here the trail is clearly marked with colored stakes, (ice climbers are green.) Please stay on the trail to avoid confrontation with Nordic skiers, as it would be a shame to lose the ability to park at the Pumphouse lot.

Vail Ice Routes Master List

Here is a brief intro to some of the incredible ice and mixed routes that you will find in Vail. If you have or want to submit route pages, let us know and we'll link them here!

Route Name	Grade	Area	Ice/Mixed?
Rigid Designator	WI5	Rigid Designator Ampitheatre	Ice
Amphibian	M9, WI4	Rigid Designator Ampitheatre	Mixed
Frigid Inseminator, a.k.a. The Thang	M6, WI5	Rigid Designator Ampitheatre	Mixed
Cupcake Corner	M5, WI4	Rigid Designator Ampitheatre	Mixed
The Fang	WI5	Rigid Designator Ampitheatre	Ice
Godzilla	M8, WI5	Rigid Designator Ampitheatre	Mixed
Lucky	WI5	Rigid Designator Ampitheatre	Ice
Pitch Black	M9, WI4 R	Rigid Designator Ampitheatre	Mixed
Red Bull and Vodka	M8+	Rigid Designator Ampitheatre	Mixed
Reptile	M10, WI4	Rigid Designator Ampitheatre	Mixed
Seventh Tentacle	M6, WI5	Rigid Designator Ampitheatre	Mixed
Somnambulist	M9-, WI?	Rigid Designator Ampitheatre	Mixed
Spiral Staircase	WI3 - 4	Spiral Staircase Area	Ice
Spiral Staircase Smear	M4-5, WI3-4	Spiral Staircase Area	Mixed
8mm	M7	Spiral Staircase Area	Mixed
The Eraser	WI4 - 5	Spiral Staircase Area	Ice
Esmerelda	M6 - 7, WI4	Spiral Staircase Area	Mixed
Guano	M5	Spiral Staircase Area	Mixed
Middle Curtain	WI5-	Spiral Staircase Area	Ice
Misery	M8	Spiral Staircase Area	Mixed
The Pencil	WI4 - 5	Spiral Staircase Area	Ice
Quasimodo	WI4 - 5	Spiral Staircase Area	Ice
Secret Probation	M6 - 7, WI5	Spiral Staircase Area	Mixed
Slabutt	WI3	Spiral Staircase Area	Ice
Svengali	M9	Spiral Staircase Area	Mixed
Tourette's	M6, WI4-	Spiral Staircase Area	Mixed
Pumphouse Falls	WI3 - 4	Pumphouse Area	Ice
Nosferatu	M9 - 10	Hell's Cave Area	Mixed
Goat's Beard	WI4 - 5	North Vail Ice Area	Ice
Piney Lake Pillar	WI3 - 4	North Vail Ice Area	Ice
Three Blind Mice	WI?	North Vail Ice Area	Ice
Pitkin Creek Falls	WI3 - 4	Pitkin Falls Area	Ice
Racketiers	WI2 - 3	Racquet Club Area	Ice
$10 Bill	WI4+	Secret Stash Area	Ice
Disco	M9 - 10, WI5	Secret Stash Area	Mixed
Fruit Boot Riot	WI4	Secret Stash Area	Ice
Inferno	M10, WI4	Secret Stash Area	Mixed
Saturday Night Fever	M7 - 8, WI5	Secret Stash Area	Mixed
Secret Cicle	WI4 - 5	Secret Stash Area	Ice

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Areas

Not all of the ice/mixed climbing in Vail occurs in the same area. A lot of the routes are spread out E - W along the mountain front in different drainages. There is also a small area for ice climbing on the north side of interstate 70. Within each of these "areas" are several routes. Some routes lie above each other as well. For example, in the Spiral Staircase area, there are some routes like Pencil and Eraser that are accessed by either first climbing Spiral Staircase, or by hiking in above the Spiral Staircase area.

Here is some information about two of the most prominent area's in Vail.

Rigid Designator Ampitheatre

Rigid Designator

This is the main area where all the world class ice and mixed routes reside. The ampitheatre is an awe inspiring place. Within these walls are some of the greatest ice climbs you'll find in the state, and perhaps the country. The ampitheatre faces north and therefore receives no sun in the winter. The rock that makes the ampitheatre is a choss pile and loose rock abounds. Be wary of falling stone as well as falling ice. It is a dangerous place and caution should be exercised even when not climbing.

The centerpiece of the ampitheatre is the Rigid Designator. To its west a few dozen meters resides The Fang. Both of these are WI5 ice climbs and are a spectacle to behold.

Getting There: To get to the RDA, from the pumphouse parking lot, head east on clearly marked foot-traffic trails (green signage) along the nordic ski area and towards some houses. There will be a couple foot bridges to cross and you will need to cross the nordic track from time to time so watch out for skiiers. Please follow the signage so as not to disrupt the access issues. The trail is clearly marked and then meanders into the woods through an aspen grove up towards the mountain. Once into the trees for a bit you will find yourself directly under the Rigid Designator. From here you can split off to your right towards the Fang if you wish.

Rigid Designator Ampitheatre Routes Featured here on SP:

Route Name	Grade	Area	Ice/Mixed?
Rigid Designator	WI5	Rigid Designator Ampitheatre	Ice
Amphibian	M8-, WI4	Rigid Designator Ampitheatre	Mixed
Frigid Inseminator, a.k.a. The Thang	M6, WI5	Rigid Designator Ampitheatre	Mixed
Cupcake Corner	M5, WI4	Rigid Designator Ampitheatre	Mixed
The Fang	WI5	Rigid Designator Ampitheatre	Ice

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Spiral Staircase Area

Spiral Staircase

The Spiral Staircase Area is to the east of the RDA. There are a dozen or so ice and moderate mixed routes contained in this area with the Staircase being the centerpiece. Routes of varying grade from WI3 - 5 and M4 - 6 can be found in this area. This is a great place for beginner to moderate climbers.

Getting There: Getting to the Spiral Staircase area is easy. From the RDA, head east, left along a narrow climbers trail up through the woods and along the base of the cliff bands. The trail switch-backs once and there are a few steps involved. The trail will eventually run you right into the Spiral Staircase route...you can't miss it!

Spiral Staircase Area Routes Featured here on SP:

Route Name	Grade	Area	Ice/Mixed?
Spiral Staircase	WI3 - 4	Spiral Staircase Area	Ice
Spiral Staircase Smear	M4-5, WI3-4	Spiral Staircase Area	Mixed

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External Links

Vail Ice Climbing Guides

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