The Sudetes ("Sudety" in both Czech and Polish, "Sudeten" in German), are an important mountain range in Central Europe, oriented SE-NW. Throughout its length, despite the major water divide rarely corresponding to international borders, it corresponds to the Polish-Czech border, and further west to the German-Czech border.

There are various theories as to the origin of the name "Sudetes". Among them, despite not being most convincing, is an interesting one which derives the word from the Celtic words for "wild boar forest". No doubt the Celts lived here before the Germans and the Slavs arrived. This will be further developed in the contemporary history section.

It is interesting to note that the Sudetes form the northernmost mountain chain in the "continental Europe" (excluding the Scandinavian and British mountains). Consequently, as you can expect, their climate is comparatively harsh during all seasons, and the altitudinal zones extend at lower elevations than in the nearby Carpathians. The weather tends to be very changeable and snowfall can be heavy in winter. Winter in these mountains can be absolutely freezing, foggy and windy.

The Sudetes extend over 250 kilometres northeast from the Moravian Gate (depression separating the Sudetes from the Carpathians, near Ostrava) as far as the Elbe River near the city of Dresden and the "Saxon/Bohemian Switzerland", which is usually regarded as sitting outside of the Sudetes (see Lusatian and Elbe Sandstone Mountains). Several major rivers of Central Europe - the Elbe (Labe/Łaba), the Oder (Odra in CZ & PL), or the Morava (Morawa) - rise in the Sudetes. In topographic terms, their westerly continuation is the Ore Mountains (Erzgebirge/Krušné hory), culminating in the peak of Klínovec (no SP pages). At their east end, as seen from the map, the Sudetes may seem to link with the Carpathians, but from the geologic point of view they are a completely different formation, much older than the Carpathians and the Alps. The Sudetes are what we commonly call an old mountain range, like the Appalachians, the french Massif Central and Vosges, or the Black Forest.

Westernmost Reaches

Central Sudetes

Jeseniky, Eastern Sudetes

Except for a few spots, the Sudetes are rather gentle in shape, and mostly covered by spruce forests planted by man after the natural beech-fir woods were cut down during the industrial era. Hidden in the woodland are numerous rocks, some of which boast a long history of rock climbing. A dense network of both waymarked and unmarked paths, forest roads and narrow tarmac lanes makes the Sudetes a fantastic ground for activities such as mountain biking, hiking, cross country skiing, cycling and orienteering - all very popular, especially with the Czechs.

The Sudetes were notorious for acid rains which gravely damaged the forests in the 1980's. Fortunately, thanks to huge reforestation efforts, now the woods look even healthier than those in some parts of the Carpathians, currently under a big threat from a kind of wood-eating worm.

Since the Sudetes have also been extensively depicted on MBPost (SummitPost's sister site for mountain biking), this page aims to summarize the contents of both sites (many mountains that are not on SummitPost are presented on MBPost, and vice versa.) Another issue concerns taxonomy (see below). Since many areas form the Sudetes, some of them far more famous than others, and most of them have pages created long before this page, the most logic and simple seems to divide this page into a few chapters that correspond to the physiographic units into which the Sudetes are usually divided, and recense all existing objects linked to them (tops, areas, albums, bike trails), as well as all major geographic features not presented yet either on SP or on MBPost.

Taxonomy

Note: We are currently trying to organize better the Sudetes by reducing the number of objects in the links of the left pannel. The best would be to have all pages attached to the appropriate subregion when there is one, so we are kindly asking the owners of various objects a little effort on this side :) Meantime, bebore this is acheived, in order not leave any page alone, all Sudetes links of all nature are attached to this page.
Currently, given the existing pages, it would be good to :
- Group Ślęza albums under the Ślęza area (thanks Romuald ! :)
- Create a parent area for the Izerskie mountains
- Create a parent area for Rudawy Janowickie
One good example in which the pages should be organised is the Jeseníky sub-area.

Geology and Relief

The Sudetes form the northwest rim of the ancient (Precambrian), diamond-shaped Bohemian Massif. Most of the rocks forming the many ranges within the Sudetes are Paleozoic or even Precambrian. They're mostly crystalline rocks, such as gneisses and schists, and granite.

Western Sudetes
The heart of the Western Sudetes is granite, Hercynian (Variscan) of age, namely the batholith of the Iser-Giant Mountains-Jelenia Góra Basin with metamorphic rocks around it. Hence the double-faced, i.e. granite-gneiss/schist, nature of the Iser, Giant and Janowice Ore mountains that surround the city of Jelenia Góra. North of the basin extends the low range of the Kaczawa Mts (barely above 700m), displaying Caledonian (early Paleozoic) folds and a variety of rocks, and – like most of the Sudetes – extremely attractive for geology-lovers. Over Jelenia Góra, to the south rises the main ridge of the Giant Mountains, mostly composed of granite. However, the highest peak (of all in the Sudetes), Sněžka/Śnieżka is made of hornfels (hornstone), a rock hardened through contact with hot granitic magma.

Eastern Sudetes
The Eastern Sudetes extend east of the Nysa Kłodzka River. Their highest massifs (Praded and Śnieżnik) are composed of very old gneisses and schists but most of the rest is of younger and softer rocks, folded in the Hercynian cycle (late Paleozoic). The folds run N-S, nearly perpendicularly to the axes of the particular mountain ranges as well as to the NE edge of the Sudetes, which results in a fairly wavy skyline.

Granite tor,
Western Sudetes

Sandstone "Inner city",
Central Sudetes

Precambrian rocks,
Eastern Sudetes

Central Sudetes
This part of the Sudetes, hardly rising above 1000m, is – in geologic terms – a depression between the ancient blocks of the Sowie (Owl) Mountains in the north and the Orlickie and Bystrzyckie mountains in the south, both composed of Precambrian rocks. The central part of this basin is filled with sandstone that forms picturesque plateaux making up the Table Mountains (Góry Stołowe/Polická vrchovina). In the late Mesozoic (Cretaceous), around the Sudetes existed a sea whose waters also engulfed most of the Central Sudetes. Into this sea the rivers brought plenty of sand, which later turned into sandstone, out of which erosion has created fabulous "rock cities". These mazes of slot canyons, buttes, towers and pinnacles – attractive to the hiker and the technical climber alike – can also be found around the Western Sudetes (see Saxon-Bohemian Switzerland and Smaller Sandstone Wonders). Under the sandstone lies Carboniferous coal which comes to surface at the towns of Wałbrzych and Nowa Ruda, until recently typical mining towns of the industrial era. In the northwest – between Wałbrzych and the Czech tableland – rise several ranges made of hard volcanic rocks, namely porphyries – late-Paleozoic of age and reddish in colour. Thanks to what they are made of these porphyry hills of many names - one of them being the Góry Kamienne (Stone Mountains - see Central Sudetes and Kłodzko Basin) - have surprisingly steep slopes and bold silhouettes, contrasting with the flat summits of the ranges that surround them.

Polická vrchovina (Broumov Walls); Stone Mountains in the background.

The Cenozoic in the Sudetes
In the Tertiary, the seas were already gone and all the Sudetes underwent extensive weathering under tropical climate conditions, which led to them looking like a vast plain with occasional hills of the most resistant rocks. The tectonic forces of the Alpine orogeny, while folding the Alps and the Carpathians in the south, made their northern foreland of the Hercynian Europe crack and rise again. Inside the Sudetes, horsts and basins were formed.

The cracking of the crust was accompanied by eruptions of basalt volcanoes. The lava that set inside the vents ("throats") of those volcanoes – most resistant to erosion – has resulted in the remnants of the once- fuming cones dotting the landscapes of the piedmont around the Western Sudetes up to this day. They have been reduced to just hills, however, these hills are comparatively bold in shape. During the Ice Age, the Scandinavian ice sheets spread as far as the basins beyond the Sudetic Marginal Fault and left some sediments on their floor. Mountain glaciers were present in the highest parts of the Jeseníky (Eastern Sudetes) but didn't have much impact on the landscape, whereas in the west, in the Krkonoše (Giant Mountains) they were up to half a dozen km long and carved several splendid cirques.

Tertiary peneplain
below Śnieżka/Snezka

Tarn in a cirque,
Giant Mountains

Relics of Tertiary
volcanism (piedmont)

Ślęża from Góry Sowie
(Owl Mountains)

Piedmont of the Sudetes
One of the most important fault lines drawn during the Alpine cycle is the hundred mile long Sudetic Marginal Fault. It runs NW-SE and forms the clear-cut NE edge of the mountains, separating them from what was sentenced to becoming just foothills southwest of the city of Wrocław, known as Przedgórze Sudeckie. Before the Alpine orogeny, these hills ranked among the highest peaks in the Sudetes, but they were cut off the Sudetes proper and left down below at elevations of a mere few hundred meters. The highest of them is Ślęża Mountain (719m), made of gabbro and granite of the same age as the Iser-Karkonosze block. Further west, the uplands around the Sudetes have a different geological make-up and history. Their Polish part is known as Pogórze Zachodniosudeckie, which extends across the Poland-Germany border to form the foothills of the Lusatian Mountains.

Gabbro summit of Ślęża
Przedgórze Sudeckie

Lusatian Mountains, Saxon-Bohemian Paradise and Smaller Sandstone Wonders

View Elbe gorges and zone covered

The Elbe gorges and the beginning...

Note: The western limits of the Sudetes as presented in this chapter can be a subject of debate. The NW edge of the Bohemian Massif is mostly formed by Ore Mountains, extending west of the Elbe Gorge. Saxon-Bohemian Switzerland is not usually regarded as part of the Sudetes but seen as a distinct region, filling in the "gap" between the Ore Mountains and the Sudetes. But there are three reasons for it being included here:
1. In terms of geology, geomorphology and – last but not least – climbing techniques, the area bears striking similarity to the tableland of the "rock cities" formed of Cretaceous sandstone in the Central Sudetes.
2. This is a beautiful but tiny area which clings to the Lusatian Mountains, which are mostly of sandstone. It also forms a continuous water divide[?] with the rest of the Sudetes.[?]
3. On SP, there are hardly any photos of the other ranges running around the Bohemian Massif, so a different parent page just wouldn't make sense anyway.

This region sits east of the gorge of the Elbe, which leaves the Ore mountains here. It is famous for its sandstone labyrinths and slot canyons as well as vertical walls and towers to climb.

Between Lovosice (CZ) and Pirna (DE), the gorges of the Elbe form a splendid valley. A main road goes along this valley (which, between Dresden and Prague, is a key transport route), but the other bank is a popular cyclotouring track, with many interesting historical and cultural objects along the way.

Sudetes end
somewhere near here

Lusatian sandstone,
via ferrata Nonnensteig

The Saxon Switzerland ("Sächsische Schweiz"), on the German territory, the most spectacular bit of the western reaches of the Sudetes, is packed with extraordinary sandstone formations, and classified as a national park.
The park neighbours the Czech park, similarly named: the "Czech Switzerland" (České Švýcarsko). Nowadays, after the fall of the iron curtain, both Germany and the Czech Republic being member countries of the European Union and the Schengen Zone, these two parks cooperate very closely. This portal witnesses it.

Amongst the main attractions, the area of Bastei, with rocky tops such as Kleine Gans, Türkenkopf and Ziegenrückturm, stand over the rest in terms of popularity. See also this album and the tourist routes of Bastei and Schrammsteine.
On SP, there are fewer pages about the Czech side of the "Switzerland", but the area is not less rich in interesting features. Let's mention Europe's longest natural arch, Pravčická brána, recently added to the UNESCO world heritage list.

To the east, the "Switzerland" turns into less attractive terrain of the Lusatian Mountains (Lužické hory/Góry Łużyckie/Lausitzer Gebirge), culminating in the the eponymous peak of "Luž" (793m). This region is dotted with volcanic (basalt) necks as well as occasional sandstone rocks.

Sudetes end
somewhere near here

Falkenstein,
Lausitzer Gebirge

Panská skála,
Lužické hory

Sandstone rock cities in the Czech Republic are also to be found halfway between the Elbe Sandstone Mountains and the tableland of the Central Sudetes, just outside the Sudetes in an area called "Czech Paradise" or "Bohemian Paradise" (map): Český Ráj (named this way probably by opposition to Slovakia's Slovenský raj). Most of these sandstone formations - constituting excellent rock-climbing areas - are briefly depicted in this list on SP.
Such sandstone formations, although much smaller, can also be seen on the Polish piedmont of the Sudetes, near the town of Lwówek Śląski: Szwajcaria Lwówecka, .

Český Ráj

Bastei

Schrammsteine

HOW ABOUT:

Sudetes end
somewhere near here

Bastei,
Saxon Switzerland

Sudetes end
somewhere near here

Falkenstein,
Lausitzer Gebirge

Panská skála,
Lužické hory

Rathen,
Elbe Sandstone Mts

via ferrata Nonnensteig,
Lusatian Mountains

Prachov Rocks,
Czech Paradise

Iser & Giant Mountains Area

View Iser & Giant Mountains in a larger map

Jizerka (Little Iser River)

The geologic composition of the Sudetes changes a few kilometers east of the point where the three international borders meet begins the most elevated sub-group of the Sudetes - the block of Iser-Giant mountains. It consists of the Iser Mountains (Jizerské Hory / Góry Izerskie / Isergebirge) in the west and the Giant Mountains (Krkonoše / Karkonosze / Riesengebirge) east of the pass crossed by a road linking the resorts of Szklarska Poręba (Poland) and Harrachov.

Besides a road pass, the morphology differentiates the two mountain units. The Giant Mountains tend to be more alpine in character than the Iser Mountains, whose heart is an undulating plateau, across which flows the gorgeous Isera River that the mountains are named after (see the "water" album).

Stóg Izerski

Snowy Cauldrons

Śnieżka/Snezka/Schneekoppe

The Iser Mountains take their name from the aforementioned River Isera, whose name may derive from the Celtic word "isirás", meaning "rapid". It is interesting to note that this is not the only European river that goes by such a name; in France there’s its toponymic homonym - the River Isère (see this interesting French article about Czech mountain names). These mountains culminate in the top of Wysoka Kopa (1126m), not to be mistaken for any of the several identically named places in the rest of the Sudetes. Paradoxically, this summit is not served by any trail. But the second highest, Smrek, enjoys all the popularity thanks to its view tower and a cable car on Stóg Izerski, its close Polish neighbour (until recently crossing the border was strictly forbidden...). This top is a popular destination also for cyclers (see trail on MBPost).

On SP, the Iser Mountains can be seen through a series of albums by Romuald Kosina, such as the "sun" album", the minerals album and the flora album. The Iser Mountains hold the title ofthe coldest place in Poland, namely Hala Izerska, a clearing in a hollow in the heart of the Iser Mountains.

The Giant Mountains are the only sub-range in the Sudetes that rises well above the tree line, cradled several mountain glaciers in the Ice Age, and boasts several fine cirques and a couple of decent tarns. The main ridge and the Polish side of the range are mostly of granite but the highest peak, Sněžka/Śnieżka/Schneekoppe and the long side ridges on the Czech side (much bigger than the Polish Karkonosze) are made of metamorphic rocks (see Geology and Relief chapter). For its arctic winter conditions and violent winds, Sněžka/Śnieżka can be likened to Mount Washington in the Appalachians.

From the plane

Winter sunset

The Giant Mountains themselves can be further divided in two sub-groups, separated by a pass called Przełęcz Karkonoska, (Spindlerove Sedlo in CZ) through which runs a tarmac road crossing the mountains. (While the Czech section of the road is open to cars, the other side enjoys the fame of Poland's steepest -27% - cycle lane.) The west half of the Giant Mountains extends past Vysoké Kolo (Wielki Szyszak/Hohe Rad, 1509m) toward the top of Szrenica, and has many interesting sites, such as the glacial corries of Śnieżne Kotły (Polish side), the source of the Elbe (Czech side), and a number of granite tors, such as Śląskie Kamienie/Dívči Kameny, or Skalna Brama. The east half extends past the rocky outcrops of Mały Szyszak/Malý Šišák, then beyond Sněžka/Śnieżka. The main ridge trail overlooks the largest mountain lakes in the Sudetes, Mały Staw and Wielki Staw (literally Little and Big tarns). Down below sits the renowned resort of Karpacz. Many of all these beautiful sights are shown in this album.

Vysoke Kolo/Wielki Szyszak

Kozi Hrbety (Goat Ridge)

Skalna Brama (Rock Gate)

As far as cycling is concerned, the Giant Mountains have many trails, but mostly on the Czech side, where one can find dense networks of marked routes around the resorts of Pec pod Sněžkou, Špindlerův Mlýn, or Harrachov (see this trail). Many of them correspond to the networks of winter cross-country skiing trails. But beware, not all of them are open to bikes especially in their upper sections, even if they look accessible. Watch out for the regulations.

On the other, Polish side of the mountains lies the basin and city of Jelenia Góra bounded by the Góry Izerskie on the west, the Rudawy Janowickie on the east, and the Kaczawskie Mountains (see this very good link too) on the north.

The Rudawy Janowickie, whose name translates as "Ore Mountains of Janowice" ("Landshuter Kamm"), are partly of granite, e.g. their highest peak Skalnik (945m), well known for having given its name to a famous sport shop), and many rocky outcrops like the Sokoliki hills, famous amongst rock-climbers in Poland for the rock quality as well as the profusion of routes. The Rudawy Janowickie have no area-page on SP but Romuald Kosina, again, has posted many valuable ablums about the area, not to mention the main one, about flora, water, mines and quarries, stone shelters, rockclimbing, Bolczów castle, as well as specific rocks like Piec, Skały Starościńskie, Janowickie Garby, and the famous natural arch Skalny Most.
It should be also metionned that the area abounds in excellent cycle trails, such as these loops around Wielka Kopa, Skalnik, and the Sokoliki hills.

The Góry Kaczawskie are one of the areas in the Sudetes showing volcanic features (and the only bit of the western Sudetes where crystalline limestone occurs) with the tops of Skopiec (724m), Okole (714m), Folwarczna (720m), or the less high but more famous, conical Ostrzyca a bit off, within the piedmont. They take their name from the Kaczawa River.

Central Sudetes and Kłodzko Basin

View Central Sudetes and Kłodzko Basin in a larger map

Adršpašské Skály

East of the area described in the above chapter, the topography of the Sudetes becomes more complex. The mountains divide into two NW-SE chains of different nature (which will join again in the Eastern Sudetes, presented below), separated by a centrally located depression used by the Ścinawka River, a tributary of the Nysa Kłodzka.

The latter flows south to north through the Kłodzko Basin (Kotlina Kłodzka / Kladská kotlina / Glatzer Kessel). The term Kotlina Kłodzka is often applied to the whole of the historic land of Kłodzko, corresponding to a lozenge-shaped eccentricity of the Polish border, which one can easily identify on a general map of Poland, in its left bottom corner.

This region is famous for its numerous spas, like Polanica-Zdrój, Duszniki Zdrój, Kudowa-Zdrój, or Lądek Zdrój.

In the northwest corner of the Central Sudetes, where the mountains split into the aforementioned two chains near the city of Wałbrzych, there is a belt of steep hills composed mostly of red porphyry. Their heart is called the Góry Suche (Dry Mts) by the Poles, and the Javoří hory (Sycamore Mts) by the Czechs. Their highest peak is Waligóra (934m) in Poland, whereas across the border rises Ruprechtický Špičák (880m) with a new observation tower. This is a tourist area with many trails (most of them convenient for cycling, see this trail). But on some trails hiking can be surprisingly challenging as the slopes of these mountains are very steep, there is scree in a few places, and more and more bushwhacking as the hiking tradition fades.

Waligóra (943m) and
Ruprechtický Špičák (880m)

Góry Sowie
(Owl Mountains)

Borowa (853m),
Wałbrzych Mountains

The western extension of the Dry Mts, parallel to the Ore Mts of Janowice (above chapter), is the Raven Mts (GóryKrucze/Vraní hory/Rabengebirge) which form the NW rim of the Table Montains (further below). Polish geographers usually group the Dry Mts, the Raven Mts and some smaller massifs together, naming the whole group the Stone Mts (Góry Kamienne). The northern extension of the Stone Mts is the Wałbrzych Mts (Borowa (853m) around the city of Wałbrzych and its old coal mines. Between the castles of Książ and Cisy, tucked between townships sit two local natural attractions: the gorges of the Pełcznica and the Szczawnik.

Trail from Jugowska Przełęcz (Jugów Pass) to Kalenica, Góry Sowie

The Wałbrzych Mountains (Góry Wałbrzyskie) are the first link in the northern chain of the ranges of the Central Sudetes, which is made up of the Wałbrzych Mountains, the Owl Mountains (Góry Sowie/Soví hory) and the Bardo Mountains (Góry Bardzkie/Bardzké hory): Wałbrzych Mountains (Góry Wałbrzyskie), the Owl Mountains (Góry Sowie / Soví hory). The Owl Mountains comprise a pretty classic horst with a rather flat, undulating top at about 1000m, made of gneiss that ranks among the oldest rocks in Europe. The main trail, shared by hikers and bikers, makes a fine cycling or cross-country skiing itinerary. The most popular attraction of the Owl Mountains is their highest summit, Wielka Sowa, and its beautiful old observation tower, recently renovated. Farther east, Kalenica, also has a view-tower, not so pretty, built of metal. The last, SE segment culminates in Malinowa, more anonymous although not far from the famous medieval fort of Srebrna Góra (Silver Mountain).

Horst of the Owl Mountains.

The southeastern, much lower extension of the Owl Mountains is the Bardo Mountains (Góry Bardzkie), named after a little town at the mouth of the gorge carved by the meandering Nysa Kłodzka as the mountains were being lifted by tectonic forces. The Bardo Mountains, whose highest summit is Kłodzka Góra (765m), constitute a link between the Central and Eastern Sudetes, and display a geologic make-up typical of Eastern Sudetes (next chapter).

Adrspasské Skaly

Szczeliniec Wielki

The southern chain of the Central Sudetes' ranges, its NW half made of sandstone tablelands, is less continuous, and hides several "rock cities", or "rock labyrinths". This area, the Table Mountains (Góry Stołowe / Stolové hory), extends across the international border. The Czech usually call it "Polická vrchovina". The most famous attraction of it is for sure the marvellous nature reserve Adršpašsko-Teplické Skály - a maze of huge rock sandstone towers, which cradles a turqoise pond filling up an old quarry. The trail forms two distinct circuits (Adršpašské & Teplické), connected by a much less frequented trail. Near the Polish border, lie the Broumovské Stěny (Broumov walls), a similar area, a bit less packed with bizarre rocks, broader and also less popular.

Szczeliniec Wielki

Błędne Skały

Szczeliniec Wielki

Broumovské Stěny neigbour the Polish Table Mountains, whose two main tourist attractions are the labyrinths of Szczeliniec Wielki and Błędne Skały. Sadly, these attractions are often packed with tourists. Just like those of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains, most of these sandstone formations, famous in the Czech Republic for constituting excellent rock-climbing areas, are summarized in this list on SP.

The Eagle Mountains (Góry Orlickie / Orlické hory), another block of archaic gneiss, broad and flat, cradle a fine peat bog, "Torfowisko pod Zieleńcem". This is a good area for easy hiking, but also with many cycling trails. On the Czech side, but not far from the border, stands the highest summit of all in the Central Sudetes, Velká Deštná, a popular cycling destination. The inner - overlooking Kłodzko Basin, about 200m lower - ridge of the Eagle Mts is named the Bystrzyca Mountains (Góry Bystrzyckie / Bystřické hory). It runs parallel to the Eagle Mts as far as the uppermost course of the Nysa Kłodzka River and Międzylesie Pass, beyond which the Eastern Sudetes rise.

NE of the Central Sudetes rise a few isolated hills within what is called Przedgórze Sudeckie (Piedmont of the Sudetes). Their highest summit is Ślęza - the pet mountain of the inhabitants of the city of Wrocław - proudly rising half a kilometer above the lowland of the Odra River. The massif of Ślęza at 719m, is a very popular hiking place, covered by many albums created by our prolific contributor Romuald Kosina, such as the spring, summer, autumn, winter, waters, stones, quarries, and Saint Mountain. This is also a cycling destination, like its little sister Radunia and the Oleszeńskie hills.
The Strzelin hills, culminating in Gromnik (392), are another prominence worthy of a mention; these hills also make a fine cycling place.

Wilcza Góra, Bardo Mountains

Ślęża seen from Wrocław

Jeseniky & Eastern Sudetes [UNDER CONSTRUCTION]

The eastern part of the Sudetes is another important mountainous unit, where - if one excludes the Giant Mountains - the highest peaks of the Sudetes stand. The western frontier of the Eastern Sudetes (usually called the http://www.summitpost.org/area/range/285569/jesen-ky.html Jeseníky by the Czechs), which runs a little east of the Nysa Kłodzka River is the east rim of the Kłodzko Basin. The whole range of the Góry Bardzkie (Bardo Mountains; see previous chapter)), sawn in half by the gorge of the Nysa Kłodzka is usually classified as part of the Central Sudetes, however, their Hercynian folds running north-south at nearly a right angle to the major fault lines are characteristic of the Eastern Sudetes.

East of the Bardo Mountains sits a group of mountains, where the physiographic nomenclature becomes tricky since the Poles and the Czechs often divide the area into different units, for which they use different names. What the Poles call Góry Złote (the Gold Mountains, northernmost) and Góry Bialskie (the White Mountains, next to Śnieżnik Massif) is in fact parts of a bigger sub-group that the Czechs call Rychlebské Hory (derived from the German "Reichensteine" [???]meaning "Rich Stone Mountains"). To add to the confusion, Polish people do use their language equivalent of "Rychlebské Hory" for the Czech hillside ("Góry Rychlebskie"), and the Czechs – although not very often – use the name "Bělské vrchy" for the Polish Góry Bialskie. This partly results from the complicated line of the international frontier, which was virtually closed (except for the few crossings outside the mountains) for the second half of the 20th century. To sort it all out, the Góry Bialskie should be regarded as just a pretty, quiet, little corner of the Gold/Rychlebské Mountains, known for their history of gold mining.

These Gold Mountains get higher and higher as we go south. One of the most popular summits is Borůvková Hora/Borówkowa Góra. Not really a prominent peak, but its view-tower provides lots of fun. This place is also famous for having been a venue of secret meetings between the Czechoslovak and Polish anti-communist activists. One of the participants of these meetings was Václav Havel, later the first president of the post-communist Czechoslovakia and the first president of the Czech Republic. Nowadays, this place is regarded as a landmark of the Polish-Czech friendship, where one can buy a pint of Pils paying in either of the currencies. All the trails leading to this top are gentle and make for pleasant cycling.

The road pass of Przełęcz Lądecka/sedlo Travná (until recently closed but open to cars since 2008) marks the northern limits of the Góry Bialskie, with peaks at about 1100m, such as Smrk or Rudawiec. One interesting feature of these mountains, on the Polish side, is the long valley of the Biała Lądecka, upstream from the town of Stronie Śląskie. The tarmac road runs up along the river as far as the remotest village, Bielice (several guesthouses/huts), then still goes up until the point called the "Pass of the 3 borders", which refers to Moravia, Silesia and the land of Kłodzko. On the Czech side, the only hut in the area is Chata Paprsek.

Another road pass, Przełęcz Płoszczyna/Kladské sedlo, marks the junction with the Śnieżnik/Sněžník Massif, with the highest peak (1425m) of the Polish Eastern Sudetes. These mountains also have their cycling page (despite being an uncommon cycling destination). Within the massif, north of the summit of Śnieżnik the conical top of Czarna Góra catches the eye. This mountain boasts one of the finest ski resorts in the region. [to be deleted: the Jesenik link moved to the very beginning of the chapter]Again, the geographical notions differ a bit between Poland and Czech Republic: the Czech generally consider Sněžník as a part of the Jeseníky, while Śnieżnik forms in Poland a distinct mountain out of the Hrubý Jeseník massif, formed by the mountains below. This difference can perhaps be explained by the fact that the Czech designate more a region than a range]The etymology of the word Jeseník is the German "Gesenke", which means "depression" or "basin" (the eponymous city sits in such a hollow).

In the centre of the Eastern Sudetes rises the massif of High Jesenik (Hrubý Jeseník/Jesioniki), which is the second highest mountainous block in the Sudetes. It is made up of two units separated by the road pass Červenohorské Sedlo. In the north, there's the Keprník area, a nature reserve extending towards Šerák, which has a mountain hut. In the south, the summit of Praděd/Pradziad/Altvater, flirting with the height of 1500m, served by an asphalt road leading to the top (popular cycling trail). Given the monotony of the summit area, hikers can be more interested in the interpretive trail from Karlova Studánka up along the stream of Bílá Opava. East of Jesenik town, another smaller unit of the Hrubý Jeseník is located, its main attraction being the peat bog and village of Rejvíz.

North of Rejvíz, by the Polish border, lies the town of Zlaté Hory, famous for its wooden gold mill still in use, which – besides the town's name – attests to the presence of gold in the area, consisting of the previously mentioned Gold Mountains in the west and, the Góry Opawskie (in Polish)/Zlatohorská Vrchovina (in Czech) east of the town. The highest peak of these mountains is Přičný vrch (975m), perforated with buried gold mine shafts. …[missing: Biskupia Kopa: tower+6km downhill]

The southeastern reaches of the Sudetes comprise broad highlands named the Low Jesenik (Nízký Jeseník). Completely covered by woods, the mountains do not exceed 1000m in height, but they possess a popular rock climbing spot named Rabštejn, 803m (see the hut's site). Let's also mention the fact that the River Odra (Oder) has its source here. The river will empty into the Baltic sea, having collected all the water from the northeastern flank of the Sudetes.

Finally, it should be mentioned that the Jesenik region boasts what is considered one of the most beautiful spas in the Czech Republic: Karlova Studánka, where wooden architecture predominates. On a clear day, from most of the summits above the tree line, the Czech Beskids and Lysá Hora are visible on the horizon. Wooden churches in Maršíkov or Žárová seem to make for a foretaste of the Carpathians, on the other side of the Moravian gate...

Early history

Like many mountain ranges, the Sudetes were often a barrier separating political entities, and today they form a border between the Czech and Polish states, like they did for a while about a thousand years ago. But later for several hundred years the Sudetes were settled and heavily populated by Germans, who were the majority on both sides of the border when Czechoslovakia was born after the First World War: Czechoslovakia 1930. Still, on the territory of what is now an easternmost Germany an enclave inhabited by the descendants of an ancient Slavic tribe that settled in the Western Sudetes about a dozen hundred years ago has remained to this day: Sorbs.

After the Migration Period in Europe (aka the Barbarian Invasions), the presence of Germans in the Sudetes and the lands surrounding the mountains (Bohemia, i.e. the Czech lands in the south, and Silesia in the north), begins in the early centuries of the second millennium AD, when in these lands Czech and Polish kingdoms or duchies have been already established. Their rulers often invite or welcome settlers from the overpopulated, technologically more advanced countries of the Western Europe. Most of the settlers come from the nearby German states. In C14, the Czech king is made emperor of the Holy Roman Empire whereas most of Silesia already speaks German. Both Bohemia and Silesia, finally included into the Czech crown, flourish economically and culturally.

But from the end of C14, for a few centuries civil and religious wars ravage both countries. Finally, in 1742, the treaty of Hubertusburg gives Silesia, previously ruled by the Habsburgs to Prussia, the predecessor of Germany. In the Sudetes, the international border runs close to today’s border between the Czech Republic and Poland.

The story of the Bohemian Germans living along Austrian border is slightly different. In 1918, the Austrian empire is dismantled and the Germans of Czechoslovakia become a minority amongst others, and tensions intensify. The great economic depression of the 1930’s results in Hitler coming to power. In the Czech Sudetes, the Nazi soon have more supporters than in Germany. In 1938 the annexation of the German-speaking regions by the 3rd Reich, endorsed by the French and English politicians, follows. Persecution of the non- German, especially Jewish population begins. Soon the Nazi Germany occupies the rest of the Czech lands.

Contemporary History [UNDER CONSTRUCTION]

NOTE : This page aims to present the Sudetes from an apolitical, impartial perspective. However, some historical notions have been included, mostly to arouse the curiosity of the reader and help the potential visitor to better understand this historic country. Some geographical notions are also discussed, and may occasionally refer to recent history. The names of the mountains and places are usually given in the official language of the country whose political borders they are now within. In no case should these notions be interpreted in any other way than purely informational. We hope this page will never give rise to any resentments.

History sometimes resurfaces...

Old postcard...

Like many mountain ranges, the Sudetes were often a barrier between political entities, and today they form a border between the Czech and Polish states, just like they did for a while about a thousand years ago. But later for several hundred years the Sudetes were heavily populated by Germans, who were the majority on both sides of the border when Czechoslovakia was born after the First World War.

The presence of Germans in the Sudetes, as well as its neighbouring regions (Bohemia in the South, Silesia on the North), starts before the Middle Ages, when the German kings decide to colonize the eastern regions, partly to rentabilize them with the german knowledge and industry, partly as the land was near and sparsely populated (they were invited by the then ruling princes, just like into Transylvania or Spisz); most of Silesia spoke German by the 13th century.

The Germans often formed the elite of the society, and represent increasingly the the majority of the population in the cities, as we go into the Sudetes, before the first war (see this link), cohabiting with the Slavs. Still, on the territory of what is now an easternmost Germany an enclave inhabited by the descendants of an ancient Slavic tribe that settled in the Western Sudetes about a dozen hundred years ago has remained to this day: Sorbs.

From 1742, the treaty of Hubertusburg gives Silesia, ruled by the Habsburgs and torn between many religious wars then, to Prussia. From this moment, the northern side of the Sudetes belongs 100% to Prussia, despite the population remaining as heterogeneously mixed as before. It will last until the second war.

The story of the Germans of the Sudetes on the southern side is slightly different from the end of the first war. In 1918, the Austrian empire is dismantled and the Germans of Czechoslovakia become one minority amongst others, and a period of tensions intensifies.

Hut Chata Jiřího na Šeráku...

used to be "Georgsschutzhaus"...

But the fate both regions stops differing as we get closer to the second war, with the annexion of the German populated regions by the 3rd reich, and the start of the persecusions and deportations that everyone sadly knows. Most of the Slavic populations of the Sudetes were gone by the start of the second war.

From the end of the second war starts another dramatic period, unfortunately less known from the majority in the West, as the Sudetes remained in the Eastern bloc. The Potsdam Accord (signed by the allies too) endorses the transfer of all German populations from the Sudetes (and out of post-war Germany) back to FRG or DRG. These expulsions, carried out by the red army, often occur in atroce conditions, with rape and robbery of the goods, and many died on the road eventualy.
On many occasions, it was witnessed that Polish [Polish settlers] or Czech autochtons were also involved in these harassments, feeling revenging. But the proportion of this is highly controversial, and makes a hot topic of arguments between historians from both sides.
However, despite the fact that Germany was the main actor of the atrocities during the second war, it must be remembered thousands of innocent people died during these episods as well...

During the next years, the "regained lands" were repopulated artificially with immigrants, from the eastern regions of both Poland annexed by the USSR following the Yalta accords (now Ukraine, Belarus and Lithuania), as well as, Bohemia and Moravia. Often, these populations were coming from rural, less developed regions. Combined with poverty and communist politic, all [much of] the rich urbanism and complex infrastructures developped by the Germans of the Sudetes remained for several decades in complete oblivion and decrepitude.

It is only from the fall of the iron curtain, the recent economic rise of Poland and Czech Republic, and accession to the UE, that this patrimony could start being restored, as well as starting dialogs about these painful episodes. But there are still lots of political tensions about these topics nowadays.

Today's border - no police, no gates, no problem - no more!

The most beautiful conclusion

However, one of the main platform of dialogs and reconciliation between Germans and both slavic nations, is the parallell between the expulsions of the Germans, and the new occupants themselves from their homeland, at the same time and in similar conditions (see this link). In short, both find an area of understanding by denonciating the atrocities, and focus the hopes in the European Union, the new facilities of circulation and the open-mindedness of this "second nationality".

Nowadays, concretly, for the foreign tourist, visiting the Sudetes, in many localities, and especially out of the most touristic areas, gives the strong feeling of visiting some sort a ghost country.
The German atmosphere is palpable everywhere, and many places gives the imperession of being a dodgy, sometimes weird, superposition. With, on one hand, old-fashioned German kitsch, villas with complex ornaments, dense railway network and out-of-service train stations, etc, with the rustic eastern slavic culture, such as houses in the Zakopane style (especially cottages), wooden restaurants, taverns, more generally touristic symbols refering to the mountain culture from other regions more East.
This makes indeed all the interest in visiting the Sudetes, a complex region, with unusually rich and various history and heritage.

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