This page will be updated as time goes by. (Started July 26 2009)

This page is meant to be a hub of sorts for all of the routes the author has climbed and compiled in the Icehouse Canyon area.

Overall map of some rotes/features in IHC

The majority of the routes are what I call "tradventure routes", in that they are typically climbed as a trad climb, but are closer to a mountaineering experience, in that there is a lot of loose rock, and you never really know what's next. The generally loose rock, cool exposure, and mountain-trad mindset make for an adventurous day out. I jokingly refer to rock climbing in the SG's as "Rocks Climbing". Plural... you're never on one piece!

Sheep Canyon Area

Sheep Canyon holds the largest concentration of routes and possible routes in the Eastern San Gabriels.

Mega-topo

-=Kimchi Ridge=-

Kimchi Ridge is the west ridge/wall of Sheep Canyon, and offers up some lines for adventurous trad-minded folk. It is home to Magical Kimchi, and further up, the notorious Big Meat Pizza.

The rock is solid for the SG's.

-=Magical Kimchi=-

Magical Kimchi is a route where you select your line. You follow the ridge up, and take the easy way, or the hard way. The crux pitches typically involve otherwise very easy moves, but with the addition of short, extremely-stout bushes parked in the way. The view from the end of the difficulties is not to be missed. Like sitting on a throne overlooking Icehouse Canyon and the millions of folks walking through, seemingly unaware of the adventure to the south...

-=Big Meat Pizza=-

Ah, Big Meat Pizza. The most adventurous route in the area. The name conjures up images not typically associated with rock climbing. :-)

Big Meat Pizza starts out up a really crappy low-angle crack with sparse pro, leading up about 50-70ft where it gains a sub-ridge of Kimchi Ridge. You've just opened the pizza box...

-=Sheep Canyon Primary Crack=-

Sheep Canyon's headwall is split by a big crack that angles southeast. Pitches move up in steps, as the climber surmounts chockstones. I was unable to pass a section where it becomes steeply overhanging with no room for placing pro. One could, in theory, bolt this section up and free it... if I can't climb it with my nuts, I won't bolt it. ;-)

-=Optical Illusion=-

A route that looks cool from afar, easy up close, and is of a different nature while you climb it. Pretty low-angle, it moves up a series of slabs/shelves to a short crack/shelf one should mantle to overcome. Pro above becomes sparse. On the FA, Marc left a #2 Tricam as the sole rapp anchor. Nothing else held.

-=Soba Ridge/Bad Influence=-

Soba Ridge is home to Bad Influence 5.7. The ridge is too narrow to accommodate another route.

Falling Rock Canyon Area

Falling Rock Canyon conjures up images of what happens when gravity is realized in the San Gabriel Mountains. There are two routes I have noted in the area.

-=Mother Rock Magazine Route=-

The first is a "secret" route noted in MoThEr RoCk magazine (however the sequence is) in 1991 or so. It was a 5.5 trad route, somewhat slappy with no place for placing pro. The bolts have since been chopped, leaving a few on the middle of the route. Top belay bolts have been chopped, and the bolts themselves are still sticking out a bit. It was not done cleanly.

-=Buttcrack=-

Buttcrack is a fun, easy route that ends on some cool 'planks' of rock with a great view.

Fir Draw Area

-=Fir Draw Crag=-

A short, fun crag near the bottom of Fir Draw. Cool views. Lots of moss down low. Shady start in the trees.

-=Fir Draw Wall=-

Large craggy headwall at the top of Fir Draw. Has not yet been explored, or at least written about. Likely to be very loose and very steep.

Gear for the Area

-Helmet!!!!!
-Good grippy approach shoes would be ideal for most routes
-50-70m rope (personal routes climbed with a 50m)
-Set of nuts, a few mid-range hexes, small to medium Tricams, cams to 2"
-Plenty of runners to 48", webbing
-Bug repellent!
-Sense of adventure