Artesonraju Climber's Log
[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
|Silvio1973||A dangerous descent |
Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2007
|Climbed with MichaelJ. Left moraine camp at 1 am and back only at 6pm. Unfortunately we missed the view because we topped out in a white out (the only hour or so the weather was bad that day). Apparently the view is fantastic from there.|
The mountain itself is not difficult but quite strenuous but the descent is genuinely dangerous. An exproportionate number of accidents happen on this mountain mainly because the descent is very long and people get too tired.
|Posted Aug 30, 2011 5:02 am|
|bighornmonkey||Beautiful climb |
Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2011
|Left Moraine Camp at 4am. Simul-climbed the SE face with protections (ice screws/pickets) only for the last pitch. Made the summit at 12:30pm. 5.5hrs later we made it back down to the bottom of the face (much longer than expected at first). Back at Moraine Camp at 8pm. Very fun route...had a blast, and lucked out with the weather and route conditions.|
|Posted Jul 10, 2011 10:16 am|
|kevin trieu||SE Face: so close but yet so far...|
Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2009
|got to within arm´s reach of the summit ridge but turned back due to lenticular clouds moving in and partners was having problem with cold toes. 6 hours from the flat glacier just below ¨high camp¨ and 3 hours of downclimbing. Beautiful mountain.|
|Posted Jul 2, 2009 9:29 pm|
|Ialewis||SE Arete variant|
Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2007
|We found great mixed climbing on a SE arete variant. I added a route description and photos for those who are interested.|
|Posted Jan 11, 2008 9:54 pm|
|mtnman455||SE Face |
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2007
|Climbed with T. Haines. Started from the Moraine camp. The mountain was in good condition, the weather was beautiful. The snow got better and better the further left on the face we got. Ice broke off from the serac above on pitch nine, not much ice, but a volleyball sized chunk hit my thigh. It is still sore. I was lucky it didn't hit my head and break my neck. We only had one 60m rope because we did not think we were going to climb this mountain and we left our other rope in Huaraz. It took 32 FULL rappels to get down off the face. 32!!! It took just as long to get off the mountain as it did to got on top of it. 16.5 hours round trip, would have been much shorter if we had our second rope!|
|Posted Aug 8, 2007 6:54 pm|
|MichaelJ||SE Face |
Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2007
|Climbed with Silvio. Left moraine camp at 1 am. Started up route around 2:30, topping out in a white out at 11:30. Took four hours to rap and down climb the face. A guide left about ten rap anchors in place a few days before. Weather was pretty nice most of the climb, snow so-so and very rotten on the steep pitch below the summit ridge, where I hacked away for a foot until I could place a screw. Fun enough as an acclimitization climb. Seventeen hours camp to camp, with the crux being the crappy scree slog back to the tent.|
|Posted Jun 22, 2007 11:49 pm|
|Tom Fralich||SE Face |
Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2006
|Climbed with Adam Jones starting from moraine camp at about 1:15AM. We made good time crossing the dry part of the glacier, although Adam managed to find a water hole, soaking his right leg. We reached the bergschrund at around 4:30AM and simul-climbed most of the face, arriving on the summit at 11AM. We descended the face by 15 rappels of 60m from pickets and V-threads and were back on the glacier by 3PM and then back in moraine camp by 5:15PM, making for a 16 hour day. Definitely a beautiful mountain but with a somewhat monotonous route.|
|Posted Aug 8, 2006 5:36 pm|
|I love this mountain.|
|Posted May 22, 2006 3:56 am|
|tdoughty||Route Climbed: se face Date Climbed: july 1979|
|As 18 y.o. on first international trip, avalanched off just below the summit. brit climber died on route following day.|
|Posted Oct 17, 2005 6:03 pm|
|althegreek||Route Climbed: se face Date Climbed: july 22 2005|
|had to wait in morraine camp for 2 days due to the bad weather that always seems to come with the full moons here. few groups made it to the summit during this time. those that did took between 18-22 hours, there and back!|
the weather cleared for us, and we made it to the summit in less than 8 hrs, although route and weather conditions were less than ideal.
the descent took longer than the ascent as we were 4 to 2 ropes. 15 rappels in bitter cold wind. 3 out of 4 of us lost some feeling in our finger tips! still waiting for feeling to return.
the route is great, especially at the top. the majority of the route can be quite tedious, just a steep ice/snow slog. the descent is very very long, so be ready. dont go with 4 people to 2 ropes!
|Posted Jul 28, 2005 8:43 pm|
|rulick||Route Climbed: SE Face, Normal Date Climbed: July 7, 2005|
|We camped on the flat part of glacier at 5100m. The weather was the worst during the two summit days that we chose. Every time we woke up at night (12, 1, 2am...), it was snowing and blowing. Finally, at 5am, we desided to climb at least to the bergschrund. As we were going up, the weather cleared. My partner and I sprinted up simul climbing the whole route. When we passed the highest rope team (a couple of Croatians) right before the summit, I knew it was one of the best climbs I'd done. We were on the summit at 11:15am.|
The descend was brutal. First, we waited for our friends to come up to use the only two 60m ropes we had for rappels. Then, 15+ rappels. Yikes... But overall, AWESOME CLIMB!
|Posted Jul 19, 2005 7:48 pm|
|foolscongress||Route Climbed: SE Face Date Climbed: 14 July 2002|
|My friends and I waited for two weeks for weather to clear, which never happened. Finally, we headed up the face on our last day in the valley around midnight. It started to snow soon after we left the tents. We made it about a third of the way up (below where the real climbing began), and due to the snow and a bout of dizziness (mine), retreated. |
Arteson is a beautiful peak and I'd recommend it to anyone looking for a moderately difficult adventure. I'll be back for a grudge match.
|Posted Feb 1, 2005 7:32 pm|
|risch||Route Climbed: South-West face Date Climbed: 25 of July 2003|
|What a wonderfull peak!|
We sarted early in the night down on basecamp and reched the summit at eleve`o clock. The conditions were good but the weather was a little bit foggy.
Abseiling was long and we were just finished when we arrived in the afternoon at basecamp in the woods.
|Posted Jan 12, 2004 4:03 am|
|hash||Route Climbed: SE Face Date Climbed: August 12, 2003|
|After 12 hours through deep snow on the easy face, we bivyed in a cave we dug on the summit. 12 hours of sleep, and 7 rappels later, we downclimbed the rest. A Japanese climber who climbed the route a week prior had about the same experience, and 2 Catalonians who attempted it the day afterward were even slower. This is a big grovely climb, which is why it gets the grade. Wear super gaitors for the powder. The approach is simple, and there isn´t too much avy danger. Unfortunately, conditions have changed so much in the range that routes on the neighboring Pyramide de Garcilaso are unstable. The couloirs on the Caraz peaks look enticing, however.|
-Barry Hashimoto, Huaraz, Peru
|Posted Aug 28, 2003 5:56 pm|
|UlrichPrinz||Route Climbed: SE-Face Date Climbed: 9 August 2001|
|You can find my Trip-Report and more pictures|
By going to my homepage: http://UlrichPrinz.de
and then follow the links to Travel and Peru.
There you can also find the short story of a tragic accident on that face.
|Posted Oct 25, 2001 12:36 pm|