| | Risk and Alpinism   | 
| Page Type: Article Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Ice Climbing, Mixed | Page By: StephenKoch Created/Edited: Nov 3, 2009 / Nov 3, 2009 Object ID: 570094 Hits: 533  Loading... Page Score: 13.41% - 5 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Why a husband and father continues to take the risks of soloing in the mountains.I don’t look at my recent solo climb of the Black Ice Couloir in Grand
Teton National Park as “taking risk.” I look at it as going home or
touching the wildness in me that I tend to lose when I am out of the
mountains for long. It was also simply returning to one of the most
magical places I know on the planet, the west side of the Grand Teton,
alone. I have been there many times alone, but not for a long, long
time…so long in fact that I don’t remember the last time I was there,
but I would guess 12 years.
This climb was pivotal for me for another reason. I had not soloed a
significant climb (technically challenging or big alpine route with
exposure and objective dangers…Black Ice being the latter for me)
since becoming a father to my young son, Axl, who is nearly 3 and a
half years old. I wanted to experience the thrill of pushing against
my comfort zone, having forgotten exactly where it is. I quickly
learned where it was in regards to changing diapers! I am not speaking
of the typical “thrill seeker” rush, but the thrill of moving alone in
an alpine world that was once so familiar to me. The thrill of moving
fast over technical terrain. The thrill of sharing what I was
experiencing, and IN REAL TIME!, with people through Blog, Facebookand
Twitter updates (see here for those), the thrill of recording “How To”
climbing tips while in the crux of the route to share with others, the
thrill of sharing and connecting with others through my camera, the
thrill of choosing the fastest and safest line and doing it without a
rope, the thrill of knowing an error would likely be fatal, the thrill
of putting myself in a situation where I am master and I answer to the
laws of nature for my actions. I felt completely empowered during this
climb, as with all climbs, in a way that I am unable to duplicate
outside of the mountains.
For images and video of this climb visit -http://stephenkoch.com/2009/10/risk-and-alpinism/
To reduce some of my anxiety (at the expense of my body by carrying
the extra weight) I brought a rope, small rock rack and harness, in
addition to my ice axes, crampons and helmet. If I felt like I needed
to belay (protect) a section I had the gear to do so. If I wanted to
rappel (out of the climb) because of discomfort, I could have done it
(not easily though!). If I needed to do a self rescue or clip into an
anchor if I was hit by a stone, I had the gear to do it.
Does this guarantee success? Absolutely not. Does this guarantee safety?
Absolutely not. Does this guarantee anything at all? No. What it did
do was make taking the risk on this climb more reasonable. Did I
believe there was much chance I would fall? Absolutely not. I solo in
a way that is very controlled.
Is there a chance that I COULD fall? Yes. It wouldn’t be climbing without this risk or unknown. This risk and unknown is precisely why climbing is so magical! No guaranteed
outcomes here! If you want that, check your local listings…
Self exploration and expression through danger has been part of my DNA
since I was a small boy. Through my move to Jackson Hole 22 years ago
(to take a year off before college), I found a wonderful new outlet
for my energy and desire. That outlet was snowboarding. Not long after
I began snowboarding, my eyes were drawn to high lines on mountains I
knew I had the talent to snowboard but not the ability to climb. That
is when I found a mentor, someone willing to hold my hand as I
stumbled forward into the exciting unknown of the alpine world. That
person was Tom Turiano, local guidebook author of Teton Skiing and
Select Peaks Of Greater Yellowstone. Tom not only showed me the ropes,
he did much more than that by demonstrating great patience as I
continued to enthusiastically and at times naively clamor for more. I
rode on his coattails for my first season in the high Tetons. The year
was 1989 and the Middle, Grand and South Tetons felt the wonderfully
ephemeral touch of a snowboard for the first time. After a season in
Chamonix I returned to the Tetons with a new set of eyes and set about
challenging myself on eventual Teton Classics with a vengeance.
In regard to the risks involved with my passions - alpine, rock, ice
and mixed climbing as well as snowboard mountaineering, as a father
and husband, I say this: to follow my heart, which is to participate
in these activities, and in this instance, to solo the Black Ice
Couloir, brings me closer to my self and to my family. By living my
truth I honor my family. When I return from the mountains I am calmer,
more at peace, more tolerant of both myself and others, more my true
self, temporarily shed of insecurities built while in the valley. My
family experiences a happier and more pleasant husband and father. If
I die in the mountains, my wife and son will have known the real me,
not some pretend father. I will not pretend it is better to stay out
of the mountains and away from danger because I am a father and
husband. This is a judgment left up to the individual.
Staying out of the mountains would be suicide for my soul. The
numerous times I have been forced to stay out through injury have been
torturous. As I envision going down that path, I see my family
experiencing a man devoid of his essence. Bitterness and resentment
towards them would grow like a weed. I am the climber and risk taker
my wife chose to be with. The risks I take, to me, are reasonable. I
train my body through working out at Mountain Athlete and by doing and
teaching the many wonderful activities in and around Jackson Hole that
make my home special…mountain biking, rock climbing, backcountry
snowboarding, hiking, rafting, lake and river swimming, hot spring
soaking and on and on. I train my mind through both meditation and
physical suffering.
This time it was the Black Ice Couloir, next time where will it be? I
am open and excited to discover and choose what’s next! Oh yea, one
other thing, I am so well trained that I did the dishes before
departing on this adventure!
Stephen Koch
www.stephenkoch.com
Stephen Koch Websitewww.stephenkoch.comStephen Koch Website
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