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Ascending Dead Dog Couloir,...

 
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Ascending Dead Dog Couloir,...
Ascending Dead Dog Couloir, about 13,500 ft, May 2002

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KaneNice submit!

Kane

Hasn't voted

You get a real good idea as to how steep this ascent is . Was this a recent shot?
Posted May 28, 2002 5:47 pm

dpRe: Nice submit!

dp

Hasn't voted

Thanks! We did this climb about 2 weeks ago, and this picture, out of all those that I took , really gives you the best sense of the couloir . I suspect that with the recent warm weather we have had there is little good snow climbing left this season. According to Roach, the pitch of this couloir is 45 degrees at the bottom and 50 degrees at the top (classified as steep snow). It is not recommended as a good ascent route once the snow melts out because of rockfall. I would love to climb this and descend on skiis next spring!
Posted Jun 3, 2002 7:13 pm

dpRe: Nice submit!

dp

Hasn't voted

Thanks!

By the way, did you see Sunday's Denver Post? There was an article about an author who wrote a crime novel about an attorney who is also a climber (as is the author). In the article, there is a short passage about how the author no longer skiis chutes in the 14'ers because he got caught in an avalanche once in Dead Dog Couloir!



David
Posted Jun 10, 2002 11:42 am

NelsonRe: Nice submit!

Nelson

Hasn't voted

No I missed the Post. I guess he is basing that on fact?!



This weekend I did Skywalker on S. Arapaho, more difficult than Dead Dog it turns out. Highly recommended, but it avalanched last weekend. Roach says at least one fatal avalanche accident occurred there.



- Nelson
Posted Jun 10, 2002 8:41 pm

Diego SahagúnSafety

Diego Sahagún

Hasn't voted

I think this is not safe. Isn't it?
Posted May 29, 2002 6:16 pm

dpRe: Safety

dp

Hasn't voted

We were using crampons and an ice axe, although it is not too easy to tell in this picture. Climbing helmets when near the rockfall areas at the upper end of the couloir. This is a 45-50 degree slope, with a soft layer of snow on top, and did not warrant ropes or belaying. This is described as a Class 3 climb in Roach's guide (steep snow). I do not know of anyone who does or recoomends this climb roped.
Posted Jun 3, 2002 7:08 pm

Diego SahagúnScale equivalences

Diego Sahagún

Hasn't voted

Well, you're right, I've just seen your ice axe. I also believe your prudence, let's enjoy the mountains. One question: Do you know the equivalent to Class 3 in other scale? Gracias.
Posted Jun 4, 2002 6:48 pm

dpRe: Scale equivalences

dp

Hasn't voted

Hi Diego-

I think that Class 3 on the Yosemite Decimal Scale is somewhere between a I and II on the UIAA scale . I looked it up, and there isn't an exact correlation until you get to class 4 or 5. The scale that Gerry Roach uses in his guidebook of the Colrado 14'ers classifies this as Class 3, Steep Snow (meaning 45-60 degree slope)



David
Posted Jun 10, 2002 11:36 am

Diego SahagúnRe (2): Scale equivalences

Diego Sahagún

Hasn't voted

Gracias dp, do you know any link about this topic (Yosemite Decimal Scale - Other Scales)?
Posted Jun 10, 2002 6:46 pm

Diego SahagúnRe (2): Re (2): Scale equivalences

Diego Sahagún

Hasn't voted

Thank you nchenkin, I knew about this link but I've just realize that YDS is Yosemite Decimal Sistem.
Posted Jun 11, 2002 11:23 am

skimountaineerSafety?

skimountaineer

Hasn't voted

I have climbed and skied this route 4 times, the first 2 I used crampons and ice axe, the next 2 times, we climbed in AT boots without crampons or axes...it just depends on your comfort level on steep snow, of course we had avalanche beacons, shovels and helmets. It's always fun to ski past roped teams with full-on glacier climbing gear in the couloir.
Posted May 21, 2009 8:02 pm

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dpSubmitted by dp
on May 28, 2002 12:58 pm

Image ID: 7333
Hits: 7805 
Lat/Lon: 39.64280°N / 105.8208°W
Object Title: Ascending Dead Dog Couloir,...