In the Julian Alps, the three must (N) walls are Triglav, Špik and Travnik. The Travnik N face is tall, steep and maybe uneasy to escape from.
The 1934 FA of the wall was performed by Paul Aschenbrenner and Hermann Tiefenbrunner, an important ascent in the history of Alpinism (in terms of technical difficulty).
In 1950, Ciril Debeljak and Marjan Perko made the first free ascent of the wall, by-passing (left-hand) the central pitches which were aided at the time, and thus proposing Varianta. This is nowadays the standard ascent of the wall.
Note that the original direct exit (along the central upper crack) is out of use, due to less stable terrain. The left exit towards the E ridge is common.

Slovenske stene (see External Links) proposes descriptions in Slovenian, but also excellent topo-sketches that one should refer to in case of a repeat.

Getting There

Please click the coords in the primary info! From Rateče (bus stop) follow the asfalted road (due S) towards the Planica ski jumps and further to a parking lot. Further along the Tamar valley (marked path, macadamized road) to the Tamar hut (ca. 6 km from Rateče). The Tamar hut is open all year long (tel: 00 386 (0)4 58 76 055, (0)41 44 88 30, or (0)41 44 88 31).
From the hut, head S (signposted Črne vode) along a marked path. As the path turns left at the foot of a wall, split right-hand up the gully. After exiting the ravine, bend left up the slope. The next choice is the gully to the right (the one with a steep grassy slope on its left bank). The following slope takes us to the foot of the wall. Ca. 2 hours from the hut.

Route Description

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The rope lengths on the original ascents must have been 30 and maybe 40 m. The common use nowadays of 60 m ropes somehow changes the belay station politics and this description is a compromising attempt.

> Lengths 1, 2 and 3: aim freely for the great cave in the wall, to the right. At one point the slabs get steeper (IV), exiting to a ledge. Walk to the right, to the cave.
> Pitch 4: head up to the promontory inside the cave by circling first right, then back (IV-).
> Pitch 5: descend to a basin and traverse left-hand.
> Pitch 6: follow the ledge (IV), and soon a step up to the next ledge.
> Pitch 7 (and 8): continue the traverse (I) which gains on difficulty (V-,V) and exposition just before settling at the foot of a major chimney.
> Pitch 9: chimney (IV-V), belay after the chockstone.
> Pitch 10: continue and exit right-hand, to an edge/shallow ridge. Straight up (IV+). Belay left hand (back towards the upper end of the chimney).
> Pitch 11: follow a ledge diagonally left-hand (IV). From along this ledge, the original Aschenbrenner route shoots up in the slabs. We continue left-hand along the ledge; and next diagonally up (V). Belay at a scale.
> Pitch 12: traverse the black slab diagonally to the left (VI+, crux; one piton is somewhat high above the detail) then continuing in the same direction along a "ledge" (V+). Belay quite comfortably behind a large scale/gendarme.
We are now at the foot of a set of giant steps that will next take us diagonally up to the right, accross the entire central wall.

> Pitches 13 (VI), 14 (VI-), 15 (V-) and 16 (V+) smoothly follow a set of scales, cracks and books, offering very attractive climbing (and stations on airy ledges).
> Pitch 17:: the original line comes in right-hand. Continue straight up, at first along the slab (VI-) and next to the crack below the roof.
> Pitch 18: one alternate seems to take left, but engage the overhang to the right (apparently unfriendly), VI, exiting to a ledge (having added a long sling for rope management). Continue to the left around the corner and then straight up (V+) to a basin. > Apparently this pitch may be split at the ledge.

> Pitches 19, 20 and 21 follow the Rampa, a long and wide ledge, inclined to the left. The only start is an uneasy IV+; the rest ca. II. Stick left (outside) towards the end.
> Pitch 22: from the large basin at the top of the Rampa, change directions and head up right-hand to the next ledge via a chimney (III). The original line (out of use) continues straight up to the summit.
> We exit left-hand, I, also walking along an evident ledge, all to the E ridge. Then follow the ridge towards the summit (max III).

> Descents (Travnik page)

Essential Gear

The route is equiped with pitons and slings.
The usual reserve of various pins should be carried, as well as a few medium (to medium-small) cams, and slings.

External Links

> Slovenske stene (Slovene walls), by Tine Mihelič and Rudi Zaman (in Slovenian). >Topos< by Aleš Dolenc.
> Tips for Safe Trips to the Mountains

and...

please speak up. In order to correct eventual (and probable) mistakes! Thanks.

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