Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: August 2003
Nurse Ratchet and I had the mountain to ourselves on a warm, dry August day. Climbed to the summit unroped in tennis shoes, ate a hot lunch and napped for an hour before breaking out the rope for the rappels.
Route Climbed: normal (north) route Date Climbed: 17 July 1968
My father Edward Stanley, brother Bevan Stanley, and I, under the leadership of Rudi Gertsch, climbed this peak in winter conditions from the lodge at Sunburst Lake. The summit was completely socked in. The round trip took 18 hours. Since the time of this ascent the glacier has retreated and the approach route has been modified.
Route Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: Summer 1977
Retreated just above the Red Band due to stormy and windy conditions. Lots of loose rock on this route, I got hit in the face with a fist sized stone on our descent.
Route Climbed: South Face Date Climbed: August 2001
We underestimated the route. The South Face is very wide and somewhat challanges your route finding habilities. We reached about 3400 m and turned aroud due to clouds and also lack of time.
Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: August 23, 02
3 hrs. from the lodge up to the hind hut on the 22nd.
Early start on the 23rd (4:00a.m.) under ideal conditions. Loose snow and some ice but generally dry conditions. Crampons should be brought along. Did not use them that day but 2 days prior most climbers did which gives you an idea of how things can change close to the continental divide. While its a straightforward 5.5 on a fine day one should not under estimate this mountain. The ridge is completely exposed so mistakes are unacceptable. Poor weather can make things messy cranking up the tech level several notches especially under icy conditions.
Summit in 4 hrs - less to descend. One needs to be very careful of people below when descending on this rotten heap of rock.
Route Climbed: Normal Route/North Face Date Climbed: August 12, 2002
One of 8 unassociated groups (20 climbers) on peak, snow, ice, verglas, and a turn around just above the red band. No summit for any group that day. Will try again under drier conditions.
Fuggedaboudit - Jun 19, 2006 12:39 pm Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2005
North FaceWinter conditions.
UncleBob - Aug 22, 2005 2:53 am
Route Climbed: North ridge Date Climbed: August 13, 2005Lots of snow for summer conditions, 13 hour round trip from the hind hut. Straightforward (if you're not bonked) but sustained climbing.
Thanks for the beer, whoever you are :)
brutus of wyde - Apr 12, 2005 6:01 pm
Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: August 2003Nurse Ratchet and I had the mountain to ourselves on a warm, dry August day. Climbed to the summit unroped in tennis shoes, ate a hot lunch and napped for an hour before breaking out the rope for the rappels.
Pawel Krol - Mar 3, 2005 12:51 pm
Route Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: july 2004Did not summit, bad conditions of snow, ice, weather
jstanley - Apr 7, 2004 5:47 pm
Route Climbed: normal (north) route Date Climbed: 17 July 1968My father Edward Stanley, brother Bevan Stanley, and I, under the leadership of Rudi Gertsch, climbed this peak in winter conditions from the lodge at Sunburst Lake. The summit was completely socked in. The round trip took 18 hours. Since the time of this ascent the glacier has retreated and the approach route has been modified.
mtnfoto - Jan 20, 2004 5:39 pm
Route Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: Summer 1977Retreated just above the Red Band due to stormy and windy conditions. Lots of loose rock on this route, I got hit in the face with a fist sized stone on our descent.
Wyoming Bob - Aug 14, 2003 10:00 pm
Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: August 7, 2003Second try did the trick. Summer conditions, took axe and crampons, never used.
Report with narrative and photos at www.climbingwithbob.com
e_wire - Jun 10, 2003 11:45 am
Route Climbed: South Face Date Climbed: August 2001We underestimated the route. The South Face is very wide and somewhat challanges your route finding habilities. We reached about 3400 m and turned aroud due to clouds and also lack of time.
jdmillerclimb - Sep 22, 2002 7:46 am
Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: August 23, 023 hrs. from the lodge up to the hind hut on the 22nd.
Early start on the 23rd (4:00a.m.) under ideal conditions. Loose snow and some ice but generally dry conditions. Crampons should be brought along. Did not use them that day but 2 days prior most climbers did which gives you an idea of how things can change close to the continental divide. While its a straightforward 5.5 on a fine day one should not under estimate this mountain. The ridge is completely exposed so mistakes are unacceptable. Poor weather can make things messy cranking up the tech level several notches especially under icy conditions.
Summit in 4 hrs - less to descend. One needs to be very careful of people below when descending on this rotten heap of rock.
Wyoming Bob - Sep 12, 2002 4:10 pm
Route Climbed: Normal Route/North Face Date Climbed: August 12, 2002One of 8 unassociated groups (20 climbers) on peak, snow, ice, verglas, and a turn around just above the red band. No summit for any group that day. Will try again under drier conditions.