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brutus of wydeRoute Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: August 2003  Sucess!

brutus of wyde

Nurse Ratchet and I had the mountain to ourselves on a warm, dry August day. Climbed to the summit unroped in tennis shoes, ate a hot lunch and napped for an hour before breaking out the rope for the rappels.
Posted Apr 12, 2005 6:01 pm

Pawel KrolRoute Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: july 2004  Sucess!

Pawel Krol

Did not summit, bad conditions of snow, ice, weather
Posted Mar 3, 2005 12:51 pm

jstanleyRoute Climbed: normal (north) route Date Climbed: 17 July 1968  Sucess!

jstanley

My father Edward Stanley, brother Bevan Stanley, and I, under the leadership of Rudi Gertsch, climbed this peak in winter conditions from the lodge at Sunburst Lake. The summit was completely socked in. The round trip took 18 hours. Since the time of this ascent the glacier has retreated and the approach route has been modified.
Posted Apr 7, 2004 5:47 pm

mtnfotoRoute Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: Summer 1977
Retreated just above the Red Band due to stormy and windy conditions. Lots of loose rock on this route, I got hit in the face with a fist sized stone on our descent.
Posted Jan 20, 2004 5:39 pm

Wyoming BobRoute Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: August 7, 2003

Wyoming Bob

Second try did the trick. Summer conditions, took axe and crampons, never used.

Report with narrative and photos at www.climbingwithbob.com
Posted Aug 14, 2003 10:00 pm

e_wireRoute Climbed: South Face Date Climbed: August 2001

e_wire

We underestimated the route. The South Face is very wide and somewhat challanges your route finding habilities. We reached about 3400 m and turned aroud due to clouds and also lack of time.
Posted Jun 10, 2003 11:45 am

jdmillerclimbRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: August 23, 02  Sucess!
3 hrs. from the lodge up to the hind hut on the 22nd.

Early start on the 23rd (4:00a.m.) under ideal conditions. Loose snow and some ice but generally dry conditions. Crampons should be brought along. Did not use them that day but 2 days prior most climbers did which gives you an idea of how things can change close to the continental divide. While its a straightforward 5.5 on a fine day one should not under estimate this mountain. The ridge is completely exposed so mistakes are unacceptable. Poor weather can make things messy cranking up the tech level several notches especially under icy conditions.

Summit in 4 hrs - less to descend. One needs to be very careful of people below when descending on this rotten heap of rock.
Posted Sep 22, 2002 7:46 am

Wyoming BobRoute Climbed: Normal Route/North Face Date Climbed: August 12, 2002

Wyoming Bob

One of 8 unassociated groups (20 climbers) on peak, snow, ice, verglas, and a turn around just above the red band. No summit for any group that day. Will try again under drier conditions.
Posted Sep 12, 2002 4:10 pm

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