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Avalanche Gulch Climber's Log

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BascuelaGreat route for 1st time up.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 4, 2011


Overnighted @ Helen Lake with moderate winds which died around 2:00am. Out of camp by 5:00, solid climb up the gully and to the right of the heart. Breezy but not too bad on top. On descent, the gulch was too icy to glisade but lower got a 500' glisade to camp. Then it was too warm an slushy for anything else. Good Route!
Posted May 5, 2011 8:39 pm

jonmeek16stuffed from high winds
Date Climbed: Apr 8, 2011


went for a two day trip making camp at Helen Lake. high winds all day on day 1 to get to camp but forecast called for a clear window the next morning, forecast was wrong! had to bail! will be back and beautiful mountain
Posted Apr 10, 2011 12:32 pm

LadyWawaWeeeee Avi-Gulch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2010


Went up from Helen Lake where I camped in September. I was intimidated by the Red Banks before going but it wasn't difficult at all. Maybe it was a little sketchy on the way down because of some ice but it was fine. Looking at the photos on this site, it looks like normally there is wayyyy more snow on Shasta than when I climbed it. I'd like to try again for an even more killer glissade! weeeeeeeeeeeeee!
Posted Jan 27, 2011 11:31 am

rhyangJune 2004


From Horse Camp. My first time up the cattle trail :) Great views and awesome glissade !

Have also descended or glissaded this route several times after climbing other routes.
Posted Dec 20, 2010 11:27 am

Mike LewisAvalanches in the gulch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2010

Mike Lewis

Encountered water ice at Redbanks that I was certain (and wrong) would thaw later in the day. Ended up making the trip several hours longer. Beautiful Summit. I must revisit this place.
Posted Nov 16, 2010 2:50 am

myjudgefirst time on a 14er  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2004


Climbed with a few guys for my bachelor party 4 days before my wedding. Fiancé wasn't too excited about the cool sunglasses tan and sunburned nose for our pictures. Great learning experience for me. Now I climb Shasta every year trying out different routes.
Posted Oct 27, 2010 2:45 pm

Paul86Amazing Climb!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2010


First attempt on the mountain so I soloed the Ave Gulch. Loved the entire route. Glad to have gotten on this gentle giant.
Posted Sep 14, 2010 1:15 am

JHH60Late Season  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2010


After 14 years in NoCal I finally got around to climbing this route. This was a heavy snow year so despite doing the route in mid August we were on snow from Lake Helen through the Red Banks. Climbed through the leftmost chimney on the Red Banks.
Posted Aug 17, 2010 8:30 pm

DougBentonSolo climb!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2010


Left Bunny Flat at 445am, summit around 210pm. That stretch from Helen Lake to the start of Misery Hill above the Redbanks took much longer than I expected and wore me out. Back to the parking lot a little after 530pm. One day, fantastic weather, excellent conditions. The glissade was awesome! Had the summit to myself the entire time.
Posted Jul 9, 2010 4:29 am

JustinWFirst 14er  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2009


Back in the States for under a week and nickL "talked" me into climbing. Didnt take much, after looking up at 18'000' peaks for 6 months I was ready to go as soon as I got home.
Posted Jun 20, 2010 12:49 am

nickLSummer AG  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2009


Fantastic weather both days of the trip. Camped at Lake Helen on day 1, left for the top at 3:00 am day 2. We were able to follow a tiny stripe of snow that hadnt melted yet to the right of the heart and all the way to the top of the Red Banks. Stoked on my first 14 er!
Posted Jun 12, 2010 4:05 pm

theAxemanDry slog  Sucess!


Shredder and I did an extremely dry hike up the face, very loose, bivied right at the Red Banks on a ledge I made us. Lots of rockfall, we had to take cover above Helen lake a few times.
Posted Jan 3, 2010 11:11 am

SKIRIP  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 27, 2007


Watched a gal buy it from Cassaval the day before thanksgiving. RIP.
Posted Dec 26, 2009 12:27 pm

SFMountaineer4 times  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2009


Been here 4 times, only successful once. Two failures due to weather, one due to a late start and extra cold conditions.
Posted Aug 4, 2009 12:49 pm

iditarod81Fabulous weather.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2009


Seriously, the weather could not have been better for this trip. Perfectly clear skies, low winds and good snow made for a safe and beautiful ascent. We left Lake Helen around 4:45 and summited at 9:15. A low-wind, high-sun summit made for a nice rest before glissading down to Helen. The forest service rangers had a constant presence, always making sure climbers were safe and having fun (as well as checking for summit passes of course). My husband spoke with one of the rangers at length about an intense winter rescue some years ago. We were blessed to have such excellent weather yesterday.
Posted Jul 27, 2009 3:21 pm

zplustwoAG  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2009


Rocked it with Summit for Someone, awesome route, awesome group. If you're looking for a guide, SMG is excellent.
Posted Jun 16, 2009 10:17 am

BlackmouthAwesome Glissade  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 20, 2009


I summited with Forjan via Casaval ridge and we used Avy Gulch for our descent. The glissade down was awesome. The snow was a little mushy past Lake Helen.
Posted May 25, 2009 2:33 pm

peerzatperfect conditions are so nice  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 20, 2009


skin up. stay at lake helen. maybe 20 for a low overnight. climb up. summit. light a match on the summit. blow it out. look around. laugh. ski down. perfect snow on the gulch. as The Flight of the Concords say, "Conditions were perfect". will have to do the chutes next time.
Posted May 3, 2009 4:24 pm

gomez13First Time  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2000


My first time on Crampons and using an ice axe. Learned what a long day in the mountains is
Posted Apr 20, 2009 4:25 pm

sierrasclimberLame on foot  Sucess!


Ticked for the list should have climbed it another way or done it in better snow on skies.
Posted Apr 7, 2009 10:41 pm

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