This climb is located on the W face of Trashcan Rock, the large formation at the Quail Springs picnic area. To get to the Quail Springs picnic area:
a) From the western entrance to Joshua Tree National Park: drive 2.6 (?) miles (a sign marking the turn is obvious). Take a R.
b) from the turnout to the Hidden Valley campground: go 3 miles towards Joshua Tree (the town). Take a L.
Go past the first set of parking spots around the curve to those by the outhouse. Park here. This is the W face of Trashcan Rock.
This is an easy, enjoyable rock climb. Just go up the crack pictured! Footholds, handholds, & jams are plentiful. Once at the top of Trashcan Rock, a walkoff/4th class downclimb will get you down the formation.
Pro': medium to 3". Large cams and hexes (yes, hexes) would work beautifully here. Bring some single & double runners (& necessary 'biners) if hexes are used so rope drag doesn't pull them out. Some long runners/cordelettes would probably be be good for setting up a natural anchor at conclusion of climb (see guy in photo).
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