tcingrum - Sep 6, 2020 2:02 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2020
Crispy
The peak itself is worthy and the views outstanding but the approach is arduous.
kevinsa - Aug 21, 2020 6:49 am Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2020
Baking on Bacon
One thing I did not consider before this climb was the many hours we would be exposed to the sun - with overnight packs it was quite a butt-kicker getting up to the 5700' high camp. A few notes about the basin at 5700': it is flat as a pancake, but is spongy and wet in all spots, it tends to collect cold air, and the views are not as grand as one would expect because it is 'hemmed in'. Also, water collected from the basin had a very funky taste. We ended up camping on the west rim, which was a good compromise. The climb up to camp from 4500' to 5700' is on frustratingly slick grass - I would HIGHLY recommend an instep crampon on both the ascent and descent to make your life easier. If I were to do this climb over again, I would do it as a 'day and a halfer', making high camp at the 4900' pass after completing the journey around Pt 5580. Also important to note that one does not actually go through the 5360' pass on the west side of Pt 5580, but several hundred feet to the west of it - small detail, but important. When you go around Pt 5580, you will pass around two rock buttresses - the first crossing is obvious, the second one (approximately 5000') we cleaned up and flagged. When dropping down from the 4900' pass, ensure that you are in the more easterly of the two drainages, and slowly begin working your way east as you enter the forest. The final snow portion of the route was free of crevasses or schrunds, and the runout on the steep snow is pretty safe. Great views from the summit.
Redwic - Aug 20, 2018 4:14 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2018
Smoked Bacon
Thick smoke from NW wildfires obscured views and choked us throughout. Even the filtered water tasted like smoke. Yuck. But we persevered and reached the summit.
tcingrum - Sep 6, 2020 2:02 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2020
CrispyThe peak itself is worthy and the views outstanding but the approach is arduous.
kevinsa - Aug 21, 2020 6:49 am Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2020
Baking on BaconOne thing I did not consider before this climb was the many hours we would be exposed to the sun - with overnight packs it was quite a butt-kicker getting up to the 5700' high camp. A few notes about the basin at 5700': it is flat as a pancake, but is spongy and wet in all spots, it tends to collect cold air, and the views are not as grand as one would expect because it is 'hemmed in'. Also, water collected from the basin had a very funky taste. We ended up camping on the west rim, which was a good compromise. The climb up to camp from 4500' to 5700' is on frustratingly slick grass - I would HIGHLY recommend an instep crampon on both the ascent and descent to make your life easier. If I were to do this climb over again, I would do it as a 'day and a halfer', making high camp at the 4900' pass after completing the journey around Pt 5580. Also important to note that one does not actually go through the 5360' pass on the west side of Pt 5580, but several hundred feet to the west of it - small detail, but important. When you go around Pt 5580, you will pass around two rock buttresses - the first crossing is obvious, the second one (approximately 5000') we cleaned up and flagged. When dropping down from the 4900' pass, ensure that you are in the more easterly of the two drainages, and slowly begin working your way east as you enter the forest. The final snow portion of the route was free of crevasses or schrunds, and the runout on the steep snow is pretty safe. Great views from the summit.
Redwic - Aug 20, 2018 4:14 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2018
Smoked BaconThick smoke from NW wildfires obscured views and choked us throughout. Even the filtered water tasted like smoke. Yuck. But we persevered and reached the summit.