Brian Jenkins - Jul 18, 2006 7:42 pm - Voted 10/10
Didn't know you attempted this one.Nice pics though! When are you headed back?
rpc - Jul 18, 2006 8:30 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Didn't know you attempted this one.One Oregon choss outing per season :)
Got spooked on the wet moss of p2. Good looking line esp. from afar.
Brian Jenkins - Jul 20, 2006 3:35 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Didn't know you attempted this one.If you ever need beta on this one, I know Vince has done it.
rpc - Jul 20, 2006 3:50 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Didn't know you attempted this one.Absolutely! Will send you a pm.
corvallis - Nov 28, 2006 8:15 pm - Hasn't voted
baradurA few bolts have been added mid pitch and at anchors (with permission of the FAist) there is now a bolt 20ft off the deck making this section not so bad any more. This was done in October 06 by Chris Fralick and John Rich
rpc - Nov 28, 2006 9:00 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: baradurThanks Tyler!
Have you done this already?
I got spooked pretty low on it last summer :)
corvallis - Nov 29, 2006 8:25 am - Hasn't voted
Re: baradurRadek-
I have not done this yet, I've been looking for partners forever, even gone up there and had a partner bail looking at it, then keep missing my chances when someone I know goes!! Ha so, but Chris Fralick whos climbed it many many times has given me some excelent beta. The route is still very serious, I belive theres about 1 new bolt per pitch, some might not have any added. The crux pitch has a fixed KB that protects the crux free moves, if the second falls they must jug as they are to far away to swing back. Some loose blocks fell off P5 and P6 but I don't think it made the climbing any harder, though possibly more sustained. Some loose rock still remains. I belive theres still a fixed pin on the aid variation according to John Rich so dont let that guide you to make the same mistake he did. If your trying to free it I noticed you have the advatage of being tall, Chris noted this to be a huge plus. The free rack is pretty small, small set of cams up to #3 camalot and nuts heavy on the small sizes. To aid P5 and P6 a hammer shouldnt be needed, but could be brought just incase. All subsequent ascents have followed the 5.5 variation to finish. Chris said he had attempted the original finish but found it to be too run out. I talked with him right before he went up there to finish the bolting effort and said he wanted to try and add some bolts and make original finish a good way to go. Now that I've spilled the beans, lets see some TRs!
rpc - Nov 29, 2006 4:55 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: baradurTyler,
thank you for the info! It's cool that you got to meet these guys (some badass "old school" climbers to be sure!!).
"had a partner bail looking at it"
yeah - I know what your partner was thinking "f... this!" :) Those were my thoughts midway up P2 (and that's still the EASY "approach" terrain).
I'll wait for someone with more nerve to go up there and spoon-feed me more beta. There's no way I can free that anyway. Take care & I look forward to YOUR TR from this one.
corvallis - Nov 29, 2006 7:14 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: baradurRadek-
No problem, I'm happy to help you! Let me know if you need some Menagerie beta, I have been in there a bit recently so I might have some good beta for you there. I forgot to mention one thing about barad-dur that supposedly P4 P5 and P6 all protect better than the first three. Dont know if I'll get it this season, but it will be waiting. Did you hike to the top up the easier route? The summit register is a peice of Oregon climbing history, all the reports of the FAs and dating back to the FA done by the group of OSU students in 64, cool stuff!
xeniv23 - Feb 3, 2016 7:55 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Barad-DurIf you are looking for safety this is probably not an ideal experience. The original finish is 4th class but mossy and a little exposed.
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