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Barre des Ecrins Climber's Log

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il.rocciatoreRoute Climbed: Traverse NE Ridge - NW Ridge Date Climbed: september 2012  Sucess!


Although we thoroughly informed for conditions on the NE Ridge, the gardien of the Refuge des Ecrins was still suprised we didn't bring a (second) technical ice axe for the first section on this route. He might as well told us to do that the day before on the phone. So we ended up climbing some 50° ice slopes with just a standard ice axe and 3 ice screws. A number of rope lengths of interesting mixed climbing led to the rocks on the NE Ridge. Rather quick and easy traverse to the Breche Lory.

Cold and windy conditions in the North Face. Limited problems due to loose rock in the lower part of the route. Once on the ridge everything is quite sound.
Posted Sep 25, 2012 6:04 pm

marc123Nice climb on normal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2012


A pretty long walk over the glacier and through the seracs. The last stretch was very nice climbing on the exposed ridge. Was wonderful weather, very enjoyable climb.
Posted Sep 16, 2012 1:49 pm

BartNice route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2012


The ridge is a fun climb; not too difficult but pleasantly exposed. Longer than it looks from below.
Posted Aug 23, 2012 3:12 am

WouterBIn combination with the Dôme de Neige  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2012


That ridge is a lot longer than I expected it to be.
Posted Jul 25, 2012 5:02 am

NikmanWestridge (normal)
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2010


After Dome de Neige I had no drive to continue to the icy and snowy Barre, but Sebastian forced a try.
Posted Jun 21, 2012 7:13 am

waribanaNorth face - normal route  Sucess!


First attempt: July 1980.
Went up to refuge des Ecrins after a period of very bad weather. North face covered with over 1 m of fresh snow. No tracks. It took us 5 hours to reach the great serac barrier, where the attempt was abondoned.

Succes in August 1981.
Left overcrowded refuge des Ecrins (Over 300 people for approx. 100 sleeps - reservations were optional at the time)around 3 a.m. Perfect conditions allowed to take the direct (Coolidge) route (steep!). Summit around 7,30 a.m. Outstanding views, as far as the Matterhorn.
Posted May 23, 2012 6:34 am

FlachlandtirolerWest ridge (normal route)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2010
Seems that I've nearly met Sebastian as we spend several days in Ailefroide.
Hut access was in rainy conditions so on the summit day we had fresh snow and only on other team aiming for the main peak. At noon the ridge was the only thing above the clouds, wonderful.
Posted Dec 15, 2011 8:38 am

[X] BirdEast ridge in ascent and west ridge in descent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2010

[X] Bird

After a failed attempt on the Barre Noir couloir (I did not feel good)we wanted to try the Barre again. The Ecrins hut was fully booked so we went for the Glacier Blanc hut wich added 1,5 hours to the ascent. Decided to go up the normal route (fixed ladder across a crevace!) at first and then turn left under the summit rocks to join the east ridge.
East ridge is AD-, only the climbing to get onto the ridge is tricky, lots of lose rock. Once on the ridge the rock quality is ok. Down climbing the west ridge (PD+) was interesting and airy here and there. Once off the west ridge we also did the Dome des Neige since it is close by.

Then came the long long way down...
Posted Sep 16, 2010 6:58 am

Sebastian Hammwest ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2010

Sebastian Hamm

Woke up at 2.45 a.m. With Nikman from Refuge des Ecrins via the north flank to Dome de Neige and solo via the west-ridge to the main peak. West ridge with snow. Alone on the summit. Very nice climbing. On the descent I have met a friendly austrian couple. Big crevasse in the north flank with a fixed ladder (FUN!)
Posted Aug 12, 2010 5:06 am

FrançoisJNormal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 4, 1993


avec le Doud, Olivier et Ol
Posted Mar 26, 2010 2:34 pm

barrysI'll be back
Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2008


First saw this mountain in the flesh 15years ago and that started my fascination with mountains. We paid for 3 days of a guides time for a refresher and Neige Cordier beforehand. Wanted to climb straight up the north face above the rimaye. Girlfriend's knee gave in, and got worse and worse, to the point where it was turn back while it was still possible, made it to maybe 3,7 only. Absolutely heartbreaking but I'll be back again!
Posted Aug 11, 2009 3:05 pm

andrea.itCoolidge route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 24, 2009


Climbed the north face with Valerio and Sabrina.
Posted May 26, 2009 10:41 am

mulidivareseCoolidge!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 24, 2009


From refuge ecrins by ski to the Dome de Neige.
then back just at the footstep of the Bar, we claimbed by the coolidge direct colouir to the top.
Nice steeped not complicated way up.
Large scenario from the top.
then we came down from the same route without any trouble
Lovely two days
Posted May 25, 2009 4:12 am

ProbemeisterNormal route, descent direct from Pic Lory  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2008
Another classic, from the Glacier Blanc hut, it was a long way!
Posted Oct 6, 2008 8:15 am

Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2006


Returned on 4000m.
Posted Sep 7, 2008 3:59 pm

ModiNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 1991


In a very windy day from Refuge des Ecrins with Cesare,Attilio,Alfredo
Posted Mar 2, 2008 7:47 am

schmid_thI´ll catch you!
Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2005


After snowfalls the whole night we tried to climb the ridge from Dome de Neige. But the complete ridge was icy and when 2 persons were fallen, we decided to reverse.
Great mountain - I´ll come back - and then I win!!!
Posted Sep 6, 2006 9:40 am

TrabalonNormal route in august 2002  Sucess!


Very happy with this peak with my friend dani. The final ridge had a lot of ice and we had dificulties to climb it. This ridge if it isn't in good conditions is not PD!!
Wonderful landscapes!!
Posted Feb 28, 2006 5:50 pm

Bas VisscherRoute Climbed: normal Date Climbed: august 2005  Sucess!

Bas Visscher

very nice climb
Posted Jan 24, 2006 1:39 pm

bruno baschungRoute Climbed: normal (+ coolidge direct) Date Climbed: 4th august 1980  Sucess!

bruno baschung

In my view the most beautiful mountain, just discover the north face early in the morning...

A wonderful first 4000m peak I will always remember.

Not technical (but the direct coolidge route, though very short (150m) is quite steep (45/50°). be cautious if icy!

The view from the top is fantastic, there's no village or human activity seen from it, only the wilderness (except mountain huts) which is quite rare in the Alps from a 4000M peak...

In spite of a lot of people climbing les Ecrins, mind the crevasses (and possible serac falls down the slopes)


Posted Sep 9, 2005 6:06 am

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