OverviewThis 7129m mountain is situated in Nepal between Everest and Makalu. Baruntse, a substantial and symetrical snow peak, has four ridges and four summits. It is bounded on the east by the Barun Glacier flowing north-south from Cho, to the north-west by the Imja glacier and the Hunku glacier forms the south-east boundary. The three main ridges of Baruntse are situated between these glaciers and form an upturned 'Y'running from Cho Polu (6695m) in the north past the Humni La, on to the north summit where it divides. Other well -known mountains in this area are Makalu, Lhotse, Chamlang, Everest and the trekking-peak Mera Peak
Bruntse was first climbed in 30 May 1954 by Colin Todd, Geoff Harrow of the Hilary New Zealand Expedition. They have climbed the mountain by the South -East Ridge. Since than many climbers have used this route and got succeeded. This mountain has also been becoming coveted day by day like the other Pumori, Ama Dablam as well as Everest too.
Getting ThereTo climb most of Himalayan mountains you will have to start from Katmandu, Nepal. To get to Nepal you will have to fly from either India, Thailand or Singapore. Once you get to Katmandu you will have to Fly on Royal Air Nepal's Twin Otter flights to Lukla. When you arrive to Lukla you can now start your aclimatization trek into the Hongu Valley before reach the Baruntse Base Camp (5400 meters) which the trek will be 10 days long, good aclimatization process.
Red TapeYes there are permits required. These can be arrainged by yourself or the firm that you hire to support your team. There is also an entry visa to Nepal.
Click Below to search for permits.
- Nepal Montaneering Association
RoutesNormal route - South East ridge
The south -East Ridge of Baruntse Baruntse is a straightforward climb, mainly on snow but at high altitudes and crossing some steep sections of ice at 50°, with a prominent ice cliff at about 7,000 metres to be climbed on the way to the top. Sections of the upper summit ridge can be corniced, but there is little evidence of avalanche risk on the lower slopes of the mountain. The most successful ascents have been made in the spring when snow conditions have been good and the mountain has been found to be objectively safe at this time. The steeper sections of the climb are safeguarded by fixed rope, as are the obvious cornices that need to be traversed between the camps on the mountain.
The Climb via Normal RouteBaruntse base camp is at 5,250 metres, a few kilometres further up the glacier, at the entrance to the valley which gives access to East Col. From a camp set up immediately below the pass, its easy to cross East Col (6,146 metres) to reach a large snowy plateau, on the Lower Barun Glacier. This places us immediately below the South-East Ridge of the mountain and provides a suitable Advanced Base Camp (ABC). This plateau could be reached directly up the Lower Barun Glacier but this approach is not recommended as an icefall at the toe of the glacier has made the route impassable in previous years. So place one more camp higher on the mountain, at about 6,500 metres from where the summit is attempted.
Environmental ConsiderationsBaruntse is in The Makalu-Barun National Park and Conservation Area, a place of outstanding natural beauty, recognised internationally for the diversity of its flora and fauna. Due to its relative inaccessibility, it is little known to tourists. The route of the trek is also populated by a wide cross-section of Nepali peoples with a diverse cultural background. Nearer the terai, these include Rais, Limbus and Newars whilst higher into the mountains, Bhotias, Tamangs and, of course, the Sherpas constitute the hill tribes. These people live in isolated villages and rely mainly on subsistence farming for their livelihoods. Although culturally rich, they are economically very poor. Farming alone can not support most families and so there is a seasonal migration in search of additional work, which includes porterage for merchant traders and for the few expeditions visiting the region.
For those interested in flora and fauna, the Makalu-Barun National Park provides opportunities to photograph a wide variety of native plants and even wildlife. In the early part of the expedition, the Arun Valley, which we follow for the first 3 days, has plenty of plant varieties including hibiscus, poinsettia and frangipani. These are in greater abundance on the walk out as spring will have taken hold and outside every house marigolds, sacred to both the Hindu and Buddhist religions, will be in bloom.
Guided Expeditions- Arun Expeditions
- Jagged Globe Expeditions
- Adventure Consultants
Brief Clothing / Equipment List- Summit pack with at least 65 liter capacity (can also be used as day pack)
- Large robust canvas bag/holdall or kit bag
(for transporting gear on trail)
- Small duffle bag with lock (for storing excess gear & travel clothes in hotel)
- Good 4-season, 0° to -10° F sleeping bag
- Karrimat or Thermarest Pad (with repair kit)
- 1 set of Windproof/waterproof shell gear
(jacket & overtrousers/salopettes)
- 1 Down jacket with hood
- 1 Fleece or pile jacket, mid to heavy weight
- 1 Fleece vest
- 1 Mid layer shirt or fleece
- 1 Fleece pants, mid-weight
- 2 Thermal underwear tops & bottoms
- 1 Pair insulated mitts or Datchsteins
- 2 Pairs thermal gloves
- 1 Pair overmitts
- 4 pairs of thick socks (wool or pile)
- 4 pairs of thin polypropylene socks/liners
- Double plastic boots (with 1 pair extra laces)
- 1 Pair gaiters (good quality)
- Walking Boots or trekking shoes
- Walking Crampons
- 1 Lightweight sandals
- Trekking pole(s)
- Thermos (small, stainless steel)
- Stove for melting snow
- Climbing harness
- Ice Axes
- locking karabiners / ascenders / descenders
- Climbing Helmet
- 1 Warm hat (wool/fleece)
- 1 Balaclava (wool/fleece)
- Glacier goggles/glasses (with side covers)
- 1 Sun hat
- 2 Bandanas
- 2 One liter water bottles
- 1 Gas lighter
- 1 Pocket knife
- 1 Whistle
- 1 Head lamp (plus spare battery/bulb)
- Trekking clothes (e.g., 2 shorts, 2 T-shirts, 1 trousers/synthetic pants, etc.)
- 2 tubes Suncreen (minimum 40 SPF)
- 2 tubes Lip Cream (minimum 40 SPF)
- 1 First aid kit (small, simple, lightweight): personal needs, aspirin, moleskin/foam, hand sanitizer, etc.
- 2 Bottles water purification tabs
- Passport, insurance & travel documents (+ photocopies)
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