We climbed up the direct route in 2012 and found the rock at the end of the first pitch to be very rotten, crumbling at our touch. The guide book suggests making the last couple moves into a third pitch, which we did not do and, as it warned, the final move for our lead climber was a struggle- too much rope drag. I suggest taking the few minutes to set up a third belay! A fun climb, but if you like clean and straight forward climbing I'd suggest going somewhere else.
"So I was sitting in my cubicle today, and I realized, ever since I started working, every single day of my life has been worse than the day before it. So that means that every single day that you see me, that's on the worst day of my life."
--Peter Gibbons (Office Space)