We climbed up the direct route in 2012 and found the rock at the end of the first pitch to be very rotten, crumbling at our touch. The guide book suggests making the last couple moves into a third pitch, which we did not do and, as it warned, the final move for our lead climber was a struggle- too much rope drag. I suggest taking the few minutes to set up a third belay! A fun climb, but if you like clean and straight forward climbing I'd suggest going somewhere else.
"Got tight last night on absinthe and did knife tricks. Great success shooting the knife into the piano. The woodworms are so bad and eat hell out of all furniture that you can always claim the woodworms did it."