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BBW – Brazilian Big Walls
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BBW – Brazilian Big Walls

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BBW – Brazilian Big Walls

Page Type: Article

Object Title: BBW – Brazilian Big Walls

Activities: Trad Climbing, Aid Climbing, Big Wall

 

Page By: Pedro Hauck, PAROFES

Created/Edited: Jun 14, 2011 / Jun 28, 2013

Object ID: 722388

Hits: 7947 

Page Score: 95%  - 50 Votes 

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Main Photo: Ibitirati big wall, 700m.

Like I said before, in Brazil we’re not only samba, pretty women, carnival, beach, violence and football. We are also climbers and we do have places to climb. Better, we have a lot of climbing, it is difficult even to count how many. Probably adding all the routes in all Brazilian states (if it is possible to do this), I believe we would reach a total of 5000 rock climbing routes, and maybe more. This number is a wild crazy drunk guess. Not enough? This number continues to grow every single week.

It turns out that recently it came out a new big wall route, impressive trad climbing with 1.260 meters (4.134 ft) on a mountain called Pedra Riscada in Minas Gerais state, making it the biggest brazilian big wall.


Update - June 28th, 2013: Another huge route was conquered in Pedra Riscada again, called "Divina Liberdade", 1100 meters (3.609 ft), great ah?

It all started with smaller routes decades ago. As the years gone by, the routes eventually got bigger. The rock climbing was also reflected in our mountains. In the early 1990s were open three routes in Rio de Janeiro with difficulties that have previously only been found in blocks and cliffs. One was the “Barriga do Pássaro” (“belly of the Bird”), classified as a IXb (BR) (5.13b US), a variant between “Caixinha de surpresas” (“box of surprises”) and “Waldo” routes, in the north side of Sugar Loaf. This route was opened by Ralph Cortes, Luis Claudio "Pita" and Márcio Lozada, being completed for the first time after a few years. After that, Alexandre Portela, Luis Cortes Claudio Pita and Ralph opened the “A um passo do espaço” (“one step to the outer space”), VIIIc (BR) – 5.12c (US), on the Totem of Sugarloaf. From base to the summit, going through the routes “As Lacas também amam” (“The cracks can love too”) and “Revolta dos Gravatás” (“Gravatás revolt”), there are at least 5 pitches, totaling 240 meters, mostly graduated in VIIc (BR) – 5.11c (US) and VIIIc (BR) – 5.12c (US) in the last edge. In Corcovado, Alexandre Portela, Luis Claudio "Pita", Sérgio Tartari and Marco Vidomi opened the “Atalho do Diabo” (“Devil's shortcut”), working every thrust out all the way up until a section of free climbing. There are about 300 meters, with one pitch of VIIIa (BR) – 5.12a (US), two pitches are VIIIc (BR) – 5.12c (US), one of Xa (BR) – 5.13a (US) and others in seventh grade. The route still waits to be completed in just one push from base to summit in one single day. "Pita" came close to it, climbing it with only one fall. The Xa pitch was not completed without falls so far. Even today this route is a challenge for new generations.

Something you guys might like it

That was just the beginning. Things changed with the years and longer, bigger trad routes were conquered. Much more. The traditional climb not only didn’t disappeared, as it returned with full force at the turn of the century. Until 2000, the major routes of Brazil had approximately 700 meters long (2.297 ft). And now, well, take a look at these:

East face of Pico Maior. Pico Maior ("Major Peak"/ "Higher Peak"). Nova Friburgo/ RJ

Photo: http://rafaelsardinha.blogspot.com/2008_07_01_archive.html


Photo: Pedro Hauck

Name: “Face Leste do Pico Maior”. Route: 700 ~ 750 meters. (2.296 ft ~ 2.460 ft)
Difficulty: 5 Vlsup A0 E3 (BR)/ 5.6 – 5.10d (US)

---------------------------------x----------------------------------

Nothing is what it seems to be. Paulista Rock. Itaguaçú/ ES

Photo: http://www.blogdobaldin.blogspot.com/

Name: “Nada é o que parece ser”. Route: 800 meters. (2.625 ft)
Difficulty: 4 V E4 (BR)/ 5.6 – 5.8 (US)

---------------------------------x----------------------------------

Shadow of all fears. Cantagalo Peak. Petrópolis/ RJ

Photo: http://amagiadamontanha.blogspot.com/2010/02/soma-de-todos-os-medos.html

Name: “A Sombra de todos os medos”. Route: 810 meters. (2.657 ft)
Difficulty: 5 VSup D4 (BR)/ 5.8 – 5.10a (US)

---------------------------------x----------------------------------

North Face of Cabritos Hill. Teresópolis/ RJ


(route in dark blue - left)
Photo: Daniel Bonella

Name: “North face”. Route: 840 meters. (2.756 ft)
Difficulty: 6 VIIb A1 (BR)/ 5.10a – 5.11c (US)

---------------------------------x----------------------------------

West Face of Pedra Riscada. Ataleia/ MG


Photo: Eduardo Half
Name: “Face Oeste Pedra Riscada”. Route: 850 meters. (2.789 ft)
Difficulty: 7 VIIa A2+ E5 (BR)/ 5.11a (US)

---------------------------------x----------------------------------

South Face of Escalavrado Peak. Guapimirim/ RJ


Photo: FEMERJ
Name: “Abuso”. Route: 900 meters. (2.953 ft)
Difficulty: 7 VII A2+ (BR)/ 5.11a (US)

---------------------------------x----------------------------------

The sky is the limit. Cabritos Hill. Teresópolis/ RJ


(route in yellow)
Photo: Daniel Bonella
Name: “O céu é o limite”. Route: 950 meters. (3.117 ft)
Difficulty: 7 VIIb A1 E2 (BR)/ 5.11 – 5.11c (US)

---------------------------------x----------------------------------

Pedra Du Bois. Santa Maria Madalena/ RJ


Photo: altamontanha.com
Name: “Magic Realm”. Route: 1.035 meters. (3.396 ft)
Difficulty: 4 V E3 (BR)/ 5.6 – 5.8 (US)

---------------------------------x----------------------------------
Maria Cumprida Peak. Petrópolis/ RJ


Photo: http://daboit.blogspot.com
Name: “Maria Nebulosa”. Route: 1.040 meters. (3.412 ft)
Difficulty: 3 VII E3 (BR)/ 5.6 – 5.8 (US)

---------------------------------x----------------------------------
Divine Freedom. Pedra Riscada. Ataleia MG



Photo: Edemilson Padilha.
Name: “Divina Liberdade”. Route: 1.100 meters. (3.609 ft)
Difficulty: 5 VII E3 (BR)/ 5.9 – 5.11a (US)


---------------------------------x----------------------------------

Go but don’t fall. Pedra Riscada. Ataleia MG


Photo: http://lechen.com.br/


Photo: Época Magazine, n° 233.
Name: “Vai mas não cai não”. Route: 1.260 meters. (4.134 ft)
Difficulty: 6 VIIa E5 (BR)/ 5.10a – 5.11a (US)

---------------------------------x----------------------------------

Final considerations

The "E" which constantly appears in our description of the route means the degree of exposure on the route. The higher the number next to the "E", the route is more exposed. The "A" which also appears in some descriptions means that some parts of the climbing require artificial rock climbing and of course use of proper gear to do so.

The intent of this extremely short article is of expose the biggest routes of rock climbing in Brazil. I have not done a complete description of the routes because obviously being a high altitude mountaineer, non-practicing rock climbing itself, I do not get involved and do not know very much about it. However, I think I could give you an idea of the quality of our walls.

These are just some examples. We have many more routes of 750 meters, 700 meters, 650 meters...on and on.
Remember this: I am not a rock climber (at least yet), so I don’t have the knowledge to describe precisely the routes, number of pitches, bolts, protections and all this things. Be advised, rock climbing in Brazil always involves close encounters with angry bees, sometimes poisonous snakes, poisonous spiders, risk of bad weather and very often, lightnings.

The perfect set of information can be found at two great books (in Portuguese of course). The image is a link:
>"Guia de escaladas da região dos 3 Picos”. By Sergio Tartari.


>"Escale melhor e com mais segurança”. By Cintia and Flavio Daflon.


Even so, if I were you I’d schedule a trad climbing in Brazil. Why not? Life’s too short. Many thanks to SPer Marcsoltan by some clarifications he gave me about some doubts i had.

Parofes.

External links

A brazilian website to get mountains info, including gps files to download:http://www.rumos.net.br/rumos/

My youtube channel: www.youtube.com/parofes
- Now with 270+ videos online!

The biggest brazilian website about climbing and mountaineering, for which I'm a columnist:

Images

Rock climbing route

Comments


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Viewing: 1-14 of 14    

rpcwow!!

rpc

Voted 10/10

one of the best reasons to to stick around summitpost! Thank you for submitting. a GREAT page. cheers Paulo.
R.
Posted Jun 14, 2011 3:54 pm

PAROFESRe: wow!!

PAROFES

Hasn't voted

You most of all should know this very well hehehe
You have the book already ahahahahah!!!
Cheers R!
Paulo
Posted Jun 14, 2011 4:09 pm

gabr1They look...

gabr1

Voted 10/10

...like really interesting rock faces. so worn by time and weather... NIce page
Posted Jun 14, 2011 6:59 pm

PAROFESRe: They look...

PAROFES

Hasn't voted

Thanks Gabr for reading it.
Cheers
Paulo
Posted Jun 15, 2011 7:09 am

KoenVlInteresting,

KoenVl

Voted 10/10

just as the previous article, the one about the history of Brazilian mountaineering!
Specially interesting as Brasil really is a country which isn't often associated with any form of mountaineering or climbing, and certainly not this kind of big wall climbing.
Some impressive rock faces you have over there!
Cheers,
Koen.
Posted Jun 16, 2011 3:46 am

PAROFESRe: Interesting,

PAROFES

Hasn't voted

That is my point. People often think about us as everything else but climbers. And there is much more i could show here...for instance, every state has its own mountaineering/ climbing club, some states have dozens of clubs with hundreds of members. Every state has its own federation too...Man, we're big!
We're just starting to show off a little bit ahahahah
Cheers Koen!
Paulo
Posted Jun 16, 2011 7:18 am

EngendradodelayucaNice article

Engendradodelayuca

Voted 10/10

Going to Salinas this weekend!, there´s a misspelling in "shadow of all fears", in fact the name is "Soma de todos os medos". Also in the same mountain there is another interesting route, Galo Kambô (500m 7° VIIc (A0/VIIIa)E3), by Sergio Tartari & friends,,,,





Posted Jun 22, 2011 2:31 pm

PAROFESRe: Nice article

PAROFES

Hasn't voted

Well i found two different names for that route: "Soma de todos os medos" (Som of all fears) and "Sombra de todos os medos" (Shadow of all fears). I used the second one since the image of the route says that. I'll look again as soon as i can.
Good climb up there! I'll hit Caparaó National Park.
Cheers
Paulo
Posted Jun 22, 2011 2:54 pm

EngendradodelayucaRe: Nice article

Engendradodelayuca

Voted 10/10

Look in this link, is the blog of one of the openers,

http://amagiadamontanha.blogspot.com/2010/02/soma-de-todos-os-medos.html
Posted Jun 28, 2011 5:09 pm

mvsAwesome

mvs

Voted 10/10

This is a great page!!
Posted Jun 27, 2011 4:21 am

PAROFESRe: Awesome

PAROFES

Hasn't voted

What r u waiting for? Book your flight right now to Brazil!
:-)
Cheers
Paulo
Posted Jun 27, 2011 7:20 am

mvsRe: Awesome

mvs

Voted 10/10

Ah, man...would be awesome! Family and kids keep me closer to home, but one day I'll just have some young and strong belay partners! :)
Posted Jun 27, 2011 8:26 am

Boriss AndeanGostoso!

Boriss Andean

Voted 10/10

Este article is Gostoso Paulo. Congratulations broooo!

Boriss...
Posted Jun 27, 2011 7:28 pm

PAROFESRe: Gostoso!

PAROFES

Hasn't voted

Saludos chico! :-)
Abrazos
Posted Jun 28, 2011 7:42 am

Viewing: 1-14 of 14