Beal Ice Line Failure
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Ripped through one yesterday. Brand new (partner from Oakland saw mine and thought he should own a pair as well) just out of the box. I definitely prefer doubles on rock or ice. Only reason I am using my Beal Ice lines this summer season is because I want to replace them with 70m length next ice season. I have always used Marmot Phoenix for my summer doubles before, they are only 8.0, but recommended for rock. Don't know if they would have done any better.
Mistake yesterday was pilot error, but I was surprised at the rope fail. I headed up a dirty flake/chimney of an un climbed variation of a route, 5.10ish range. Knew it would be hard to protect, but of course was not anticipating a fall. Had long runners, but used regular length in on the few cams I could sink thinking I would ride the inside of the flake all the way. Got real dirty/sandy and loose. Felt the route went better if I turned out onto the face of the flake which had a thin crack that formed further up (straight verticle). Of course no reason to place pro in this tiny finger crack, because it was all way to delicate anyway. The flake was very thin at the upper section. Did not trust a lay back on this particular sandstone, so stacked my toes and fingers and ran it out. Got to top of flake, nothing but white rock! Had no choice but to go ahead and sink a #3 Metolius into the top of the flake. Was not betting the house on it for sure. Avoided the white stuff and had to completely rely on a finger varnish hold to leverage myself up for a bold mantle move......boom, the varnish blew and the #3 blew (over sprung) and because I had not used long runners from my inner flake placements before coming out onto the face, one of the doubles sheered on the edge of the flake. Of course the other double held the fall. LESSON: GIVE THE ROPES A CHANCE. ONCE I MADE THE DECISION TO TURN OUT ONTO THE FLAKE, SUPPOSE I SHOULD HAVE HAD THE BELAYER LOWER ME ON THE GEAR SO I COULD SWITCH OUT THE RUNNERS. LAZY + COCKY= DONE ROPE, POSSIBLY DONE DOW. Cheers.