Route Climbed: Northwest face via Cox Col (Ulrich's) Date Climbed: July 4th, 2004
Climbed with Vladimir Ulyashin from camp by a little tarn on top of the ridge between Gem and Treasure Lakes. The slopes before Cox Col had extensive snow cover that was perfect for kicking steps. At Cox Col we met 2 climbers who also go to the Berkeley Ironworks. I carried Bob Burd's photo of the summit headwall and it proved very useful. With rock shoes I was able to climb up the headwall through Bob's "easier chimney". We rappelled down a different headwall on the west side of the summit. Great peak with lots of exposure on every side and some challenging climbs. Then after sundown we spent 2+ hours looking for our tent, finally found it after comparing profiles of surrounding mountains with digital photos taken in the morning from the camp site. What a day!!!
Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: July 18, 2003
Dodged lightning all afternoon, including a quick retreat just before reaching the summit ridge, only to try again minutes later. In retrospect, climbing this sucker that day probably wasn't a good idea, but oh well. Didn't climb the summit block because the clouds were building again and the summit block was wet.
Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: June 2001
Car to Car in a day, with Kris S. Bring rockclimbing shoes and stick close to the summit ridge for some really fine 5.5 on golden rock! Ran into some old friends on the summit, very nice day.
Route Climbed: Ulrichs Route Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2003
An easy climb from Cox Col. We were on our way back from climbing Mt. Gabb, and this one seemed too easy to pass up. The summit rocks are a bit tricky though - the fun part! It took half an hour from Cox Col, 8.5hr since we left the trailhead at Rock Creek - most of that time was in climbing Mt. Gabb. Trip Report
Route Climbed: NE Ridge Date Climbed: 3 August, 2003
Took off from my bivy 2 lakes down from Dade Lake (right below Pyramid Peak) @ 7.30, leaving from Dade Lake @ 8.00. Took a few easy 5th class variations along the way. Passed Rinat's group w/o even knowing he was in it! Made summit by 10.45, leaving @ 11.31. Descended Ulrichs route to plateau below before realizing I'd dropped my camera at the top. Ascended 700', only to not find it! Descended again, having some fun glissading on snowfields en route. Beautiful route, good rock, & excellent day!
Route Climbed: NE Butress Date Climbed: August 3, 2003
Climbed the route with my wife amd 2 another friends of mine. We had some very bad weather on the day befoe (Aug 2):hale, winds, T-storm and excellent conditions on the summit day. We moved too high and found ourselves on the hard ground on the top of North Arete, so had to backup a little bit and made some low grade 5th class section below the summit block. Returned back via the Ulrich route. Excellent peak and great scenery.
Route Climbed: North Arete, III, 5.8 Date Climbed: July 11, 1987
Robert Somoano and I climbed this beautiful North Arete from Dade Lake. We thought this was one of the best trips we have ever done in the High Sierra.
Route Climbed: The East Ridge IV, 5.8 Date Climbed: August 10, 1994
Gerry Cox and I got on the East Ridge at it's base and followed the crest to the summit. We took 10 hours and roped 22 pitches with one or two(?) rappels. I thought this was a long, classic Sierra rock climb. I would highly recommended it as a full day trip from/to Dade Lake.
Route Climbed: N E Ridge Date Climbed: August 1995
Did this with Duncan Laing. I fine climb with an outstanding setting. A lot of snow in 1995 which froze hard as a rock at sunset, making the return to camp real interesting.
Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge (ascent) / Ulrichs Route (descent) Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2002
Day 4 of the 2002 Mountaineers Challenge. The NE Ridge was a very fun route. It starts off as a boulder scramble but soon turns into an interesting weave along the ridge, mostly class 2-3. Near the summit ridge, where it joins the North Arete, there is some easy class 4 for extra excitement. The summit ridge itself is a hoot (mostly class 2 with serious exposure) all the way to the summit block. Vishal and Joe came up Ulrichs Route and joined me shortly after I had reached the summit. Trip Report.
Route Climbed: North Arete (5.8, III) Date Climbed: July 31, 2002
I woke up this morning in the woods outside of Mammoth Lakes and started leafing through Secor's book. Bear Creek Spire looked like a worthy objective, so I drove to the trailhead and started up the trail at a relaxed pace (i.e., not running). About 6 miles and 2 hours later, I was at the base of the North Arete. I changed into my rock shoes and started up the FINE North Arete. The rock was solid and the setting was spectacular. 46 minutes later, I reached the summit, slid down some talus, and ran back to my car. Car-to-car time: just under 5 hours.
Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: July 1999
Bailed at 7 PM to the right a couple hundred feet short of summit. Back to camp at Gem Lakes well after dark. Great moderate climb. Backing through the triangle hole is unforgetable.
poorboy44 - Jul 23, 2004 2:36 pm
Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: June 2001Cool route, we went to the left at the OW, it was only 5.7 or so.
I like the summit.
brandon - Jul 6, 2004 6:40 pm
Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: June 2004Lots of fun. Good bit of loose stuff in the corner/OW at the headwall, about 5.8, and the rest no harder than 5.7.
gordonye - Jul 6, 2004 11:19 am
Route Climbed: Northwest face via Cox Col (Ulrich's) Date Climbed: July 4th, 2004Climbed with Vladimir Ulyashin from camp by a little tarn on top of the ridge between Gem and Treasure Lakes. The slopes before Cox Col had extensive snow cover that was perfect for kicking steps. At Cox Col we met 2 climbers who also go to the Berkeley Ironworks. I carried Bob Burd's photo of the summit headwall and it proved very useful. With rock shoes I was able to climb up the headwall through Bob's "easier chimney". We rappelled down a different headwall on the west side of the summit. Great peak with lots of exposure on every side and some challenging climbs. Then after sundown we spent 2+ hours looking for our tent, finally found it after comparing profiles of surrounding mountains with digital photos taken in the morning from the camp site. What a day!!!
Dave K - Apr 14, 2004 12:36 am
Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: July 18, 2003Dodged lightning all afternoon, including a quick retreat just before reaching the summit ridge, only to try again minutes later. In retrospect, climbing this sucker that day probably wasn't a good idea, but oh well. Didn't climb the summit block because the clouds were building again and the summit block was wet.
Guyzo - Feb 24, 2004 1:30 pm
Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: June 2001Car to Car in a day, with Kris S. Bring rockclimbing shoes and stick close to the summit ridge for some really fine 5.5 on golden rock! Ran into some old friends on the summit, very nice day.
mtnfoto - Jan 20, 2004 1:06 pm
Route Climbed: Ulrichs Route Date Climbed: February 1987Did winter ascent with Galen and Barbara Rowell. Great ski down!
Matthew Holliman - Aug 19, 2003 6:11 pm
Route Climbed: Ulrichs Route Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2003My first unroped class 4 climb--thanks to some careful coaching by Bob. This is a fun peak with some great rock!
Bob Burd - Aug 13, 2003 7:11 am
Route Climbed: Ulrichs Route Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2003An easy climb from Cox Col. We were on our way back from climbing Mt. Gabb, and this one seemed too easy to pass up. The summit rocks are a bit tricky though - the fun part! It took half an hour from Cox Col, 8.5hr since we left the trailhead at Rock Creek - most of that time was in climbing Mt. Gabb. Trip Report
Diggler - Aug 6, 2003 6:46 pm
Route Climbed: NE Ridge Date Climbed: 3 August, 2003Took off from my bivy 2 lakes down from Dade Lake (right below Pyramid Peak) @ 7.30, leaving from Dade Lake @ 8.00. Took a few easy 5th class variations along the way. Passed Rinat's group w/o even knowing he was in it! Made summit by 10.45, leaving @ 11.31. Descended Ulrichs route to plateau below before realizing I'd dropped my camera at the top. Ascended 700', only to not find it! Descended again, having some fun glissading on snowfields en route. Beautiful route, good rock, & excellent day!
Rinat Shagisultanov - Aug 4, 2003 1:33 pm
Route Climbed: NE Butress Date Climbed: August 3, 2003Climbed the route with my wife amd 2 another friends of mine. We had some very bad weather on the day befoe (Aug 2):hale, winds, T-storm and excellent conditions on the summit day. We moved too high and found ourselves on the hard ground on the top of North Arete, so had to backup a little bit and made some low grade 5th class section below the summit block. Returned back via the Ulrich route. Excellent peak and great scenery.
Rinat Shagisultanov.
kullaberg - Nov 28, 2002 7:32 pm
Route Climbed: north arete, .8 Date Climbed: may 2000good route. another galen rowell first ascent. amazing man, tragic loss..
asmrz - Nov 13, 2002 8:21 pm
Route Climbed: NorthEast Buttress, 4th class Date Climbed: July 16th , 1995Jim Mathews and I scrambled up the NE Buttress in about 5 hours RT from Dade Lake. What a beautiful peak.
asmrz - Nov 13, 2002 8:16 pm
Route Climbed: North Arete, III, 5.8 Date Climbed: July 11, 1987Robert Somoano and I climbed this beautiful North Arete from Dade Lake. We thought this was one of the best trips we have ever done in the High Sierra.
asmrz - Nov 10, 2002 3:34 pm
Route Climbed: The East Ridge IV, 5.8 Date Climbed: August 10, 1994Gerry Cox and I got on the East Ridge at it's base and followed the crest to the summit. We took 10 hours and roped 22 pitches with one or two(?) rappels. I thought this was a long, classic Sierra rock climb. I would highly recommended it as a full day trip from/to Dade Lake.
Craig Peer - Sep 23, 2002 9:51 am
Route Climbed: N E Ridge Date Climbed: August 1995Did this with Duncan Laing. I fine climb with an outstanding setting. A lot of snow in 1995 which froze hard as a rock at sunset, making the return to camp real interesting.
Bob Burd - Aug 20, 2002 6:02 pm
Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge (ascent) / Ulrichs Route (descent) Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2002Day 4 of the 2002 Mountaineers Challenge. The NE Ridge was a very fun route. It starts off as a boulder scramble but soon turns into an interesting weave along the ridge, mostly class 2-3. Near the summit ridge, where it joins the North Arete, there is some easy class 4 for extra excitement. The summit ridge itself is a hoot (mostly class 2 with serious exposure) all the way to the summit block. Vishal and Joe came up Ulrichs Route and joined me shortly after I had reached the summit. Trip Report.
Josh - Jul 31, 2002 3:16 pm
Route Climbed: North Arete (5.8, III) Date Climbed: July 31, 2002I woke up this morning in the woods outside of Mammoth Lakes and started leafing through Secor's book. Bear Creek Spire looked like a worthy objective, so I drove to the trailhead and started up the trail at a relaxed pace (i.e., not running). About 6 miles and 2 hours later, I was at the base of the North Arete. I changed into my rock shoes and started up the FINE North Arete. The rock was solid and the setting was spectacular. 46 minutes later, I reached the summit, slid down some talus, and ran back to my car. Car-to-car time: just under 5 hours.
jeffn - Apr 3, 2002 7:15 pm
Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: July 1999Bailed at 7 PM to the right a couple hundred feet short of summit. Back to camp at Gem Lakes well after dark. Great moderate climb. Backing through the triangle hole is unforgetable.