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oaklanderRoute Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: July 9, 2005  Sucess!

oaklander

Did the north arete in a very long day...beautiful weather all day (we saw both the sunrise and sunset...) fun route. "crux" pitch seemed easier than 5.8, while the second pitch felt harder than 5.7 ...oh well ,ratings are just a guide anyway
Posted Jul 10, 2005 9:28 pm

CompletebumRoute Climbed: Ulrich's Date Climbed: July 3, 2005  Sucess!

Completebum

Great way to start the day. The snow to Cox col was excellant, the suncups by Treasure Lakes were another stroy, and the route above was solid. Couldn't find the register but did get a good shot of my feet hanging over the south face.
Posted Jul 4, 2005 3:02 pm

cp0915Route Climbed: Ulrichs Route Date Climbed: June 18, 2005

cp0915

Lots of snow past Long Lake. Treasure Lakes were still frozen. Walked right across what I assume was Dade Lake.

The snow slopes above Dade Lake on the way to Cox Col were in excellent shape and got particularly steep just below the col. From the col, it was an easy scramble to the base of the headwall. Looked for the portion of the headwall shown in Bob Burd's route photo but couldn't ID it. My partner and I scrambled up some off-width cracks/narrow chimneys immediately below the summit crag and soon found ourselves at the summit register in the notch below the highest point. From there, a couple of easy but exposed moves landed me on the highpoint.

The extremely high winds that were forecast turned out to be a bit wimpier, gladly, than predicted.

Beautiful weather...a great time!
Posted Jun 20, 2005 1:03 pm

kovarpaRoute Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: June 11, 2005  Sucess!

kovarpa

Fine climb with Misha - 5 hrs up, 2.5 down to our bivy at Dade Lake. Spectacular setting and views.
Posted Jun 14, 2005 12:20 am

MishaRoute Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: June 11, 2005  Sucess!

Misha

What an awesome route and a beautiful area! Climbed with Pavel on a glorious day. We belayed for the first five pitches and simuled the rest. Pavel did a masterful job leading the crux pitch (flakes on the right side of the OW). Several moves felt like pretty solid 5.8. It took us about 5 hours from the toe of the arete to the summit. Turns out we were the first party to do the route this year and the second party on the summit. Need to do the East Ridge next year!!
Posted Jun 13, 2005 9:25 am

Steve MackayRoute Climbed: Northeast Face/West Face variation Date Climbed: August 1977  Sucess!
Ullrichs was a devious man! We looked, but never did find a 3rd-class route to the top. After climbing the NE Face we traversed along the ridge north of the summit, then descended to the foot of the Ullrichs/Cox Col route. Climbed the headwall via a nifty 5.6 crack. Awesome views and great climbing! On the way down, we bivvied (planned), rescued two unequipped climbers (unplanned), survived an all-night thunderstorm that dropped 3 inches of hail, then awoke to a wonderful cloudscape of all conceivable colors as the rising sun lit up the peaks and the remains of the storm. What a grand experience!
Posted May 18, 2005 1:43 pm

plumeRoute Climbed: Arete and Clyde's route Date Climbed: Aug 97  Sucess!

plume

I've been forced to retreat because of the weather, but never because of the sun. Forgot to breing sunscreen on a snowy year. Headed down for three days of Bishop shade then up again for another try. Fine climbing with Kim.
Posted Feb 13, 2005 2:52 am

Steve LarsonRoute Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: August 29, 2004  Sucess!

Steve Larson

This was my second time up BCS. The North Arete is a fantastic route. My partner opted to doze in the sun while I scrambled up the summit block. Oh well, his loss.
Posted Nov 5, 2004 9:18 pm

dshoshoneRoute Climbed: Ulrichs Route Date Climbed: Aug. 13-2003  Sucess!

dshoshone

Ran into 3 Sierra Challengers,they led me to the summit. Thanks Bob,Michael,Matthew
Been up twice more via NE ridge
Posted Oct 6, 2004 6:18 pm

stoneman5Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: September 12, 2001  Sucess!

stoneman5

Great fun. Cold.
Posted Sep 13, 2004 7:23 pm

ScottySRoute Climbed: NE Ridge Date Climbed: September 5, 2004  Sucess!

ScottyS

Did this climb almost on a whim during Labor Day vacation --- wore my Tevas to the top! See this trip report for the details. VERY FUN CLIMB!!!
Posted Sep 7, 2004 5:02 am

ShaaseRoute Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: July 16, 2004  Sucess!

Shaase

45 min. after a "no go" decision a hole in the weather appeared. We shoulder'd our packs squeezing through danting Sierra storm threats. Descent in slight drizzle with infrequent bright flashes. It was a great day for us....
Posted Aug 10, 2004 2:54 pm

CPSLOKornyRoute Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: July 2004  Sucess!

CPSLOKorny

Excellent weather, a little traffic while climbing but well worth it.
Posted Aug 8, 2004 5:04 am

poorboy44Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: June 2001  Sucess!

poorboy44

Cool route, we went to the left at the OW, it was only 5.7 or so.



I like the summit.
Posted Jul 23, 2004 2:36 pm

brandonRoute Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: June 2004  Sucess!

brandon

Lots of fun. Good bit of loose stuff in the corner/OW at the headwall, about 5.8, and the rest no harder than 5.7.
Posted Jul 6, 2004 6:40 pm

gordonyeRoute Climbed: Northwest face via Cox Col (Ulrich's) Date Climbed: July 4th, 2004  Sucess!

gordonye

Climbed with Vladimir Ulyashin from camp by a little tarn on top of the ridge between Gem and Treasure Lakes. The slopes before Cox Col had extensive snow cover that was perfect for kicking steps. At Cox Col we met 2 climbers who also go to the Berkeley Ironworks. I carried Bob Burd's photo of the summit headwall and it proved very useful. With rock shoes I was able to climb up the headwall through Bob's "easier chimney". We rappelled down a different headwall on the west side of the summit. Great peak with lots of exposure on every side and some challenging climbs. Then after sundown we spent 2+ hours looking for our tent, finally found it after comparing profiles of surrounding mountains with digital photos taken in the morning from the camp site. What a day!!!
Posted Jul 6, 2004 11:19 am

Dave KRoute Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: July 18, 2003

Dave K

Dodged lightning all afternoon, including a quick retreat just before reaching the summit ridge, only to try again minutes later. In retrospect, climbing this sucker that day probably wasn't a good idea, but oh well. Didn't climb the summit block because the clouds were building again and the summit block was wet.
Posted Apr 14, 2004 12:36 am

GuyzoRoute Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: June 2001  Sucess!

Guyzo

Car to Car in a day, with Kris S. Bring rockclimbing shoes and stick close to the summit ridge for some really fine 5.5 on golden rock! Ran into some old friends on the summit, very nice day.
Posted Feb 24, 2004 1:30 pm

mtnfotoRoute Climbed: Ulrichs Route Date Climbed: February 1987  Sucess!
Did winter ascent with Galen and Barbara Rowell. Great ski down!
Posted Jan 20, 2004 1:06 pm

BranchWhitneyRoute Climbed: Northeast Buttress Date Climbed: Sept. 2003  Sucess!
One of the best peaks I have done so far in the Sierra! Fun climb, though got off route and had to climb some easy class 5 rock to the summit ridge. After doing that, I took off my pack and attached my camera case to my belt. On the first move toward the summit, my camera case went flying off the ridge. It's a sick feeling watching your camera bounce down the rocks. I spent about 60 seconds at the summit and located the case about 100 feet below. We rapped down the west side to the camera case. I opened the case and pulled out the camera. Pieces started falling off the camera. Not a good sign! Picked up the pieces and duct tape them to the camera in my hotel room. The camera still works! In fact I took some awesome panoramas from Whitney, Hurd, and Lone Pine Peak with the camera. If interested in seeing them, go to: http://www.hikinglasvegas.com/Panorama.htm
Posted Oct 6, 2003 6:18 pm

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