John Muir Wilderness > Bear Creek Spire > Climber's LogBear Creek Spire Climber's Log
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| Completebum | Route Climbed: Ulrich's Date Climbed: July 3, 2005  | |
| Great way to start the day. The snow to Cox col was excellant, the suncups by Treasure Lakes were another stroy, and the route above was solid. Couldn't find the register but did get a good shot of my feet hanging over the south face. | |
| Posted Jul 4, 2005 3:02 pm | ||
| cp0915 | Route Climbed: Ulrichs Route Date Climbed: June 18, 2005 | |
| Lots of snow past Long Lake. Treasure Lakes were still frozen. Walked right across what I assume was Dade Lake. The snow slopes above Dade Lake on the way to Cox Col were in excellent shape and got particularly steep just below the col. From the col, it was an easy scramble to the base of the headwall. Looked for the portion of the headwall shown in Bob Burd's route photo but couldn't ID it. My partner and I scrambled up some off-width cracks/narrow chimneys immediately below the summit crag and soon found ourselves at the summit register in the notch below the highest point. From there, a couple of easy but exposed moves landed me on the highpoint. The extremely high winds that were forecast turned out to be a bit wimpier, gladly, than predicted. Beautiful weather...a great time! | |
| Posted Jun 20, 2005 1:03 pm | ||
| kovarpa | Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: June 11, 2005 | |
| Fine climb with Misha - 5 hrs up, 2.5 down to our bivy at Dade Lake. Spectacular setting and views. | |
| Posted Jun 14, 2005 12:20 am | ||
| Misha | Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: June 11, 2005 | |
| What an awesome route and a beautiful area! Climbed with Pavel on a glorious day. We belayed for the first five pitches and simuled the rest. Pavel did a masterful job leading the crux pitch (flakes on the right side of the OW). Several moves felt like pretty solid 5.8. It took us about 5 hours from the toe of the arete to the summit. Turns out we were the first party to do the route this year and the second party on the summit. Need to do the East Ridge next year!! | |
| Posted Jun 13, 2005 9:25 am | ||
| Steve Mackay | Route Climbed: Northeast Face/West Face variation Date Climbed: August 1977 | |
| Ullrichs was a devious man! We looked, but never did find a 3rd-class route to the top. After climbing the NE Face we traversed along the ridge north of the summit, then descended to the foot of the Ullrichs/Cox Col route. Climbed the headwall via a nifty 5.6 crack. Awesome views and great climbing! On the way down, we bivvied (planned), rescued two unequipped climbers (unplanned), survived an all-night thunderstorm that dropped 3 inches of hail, then awoke to a wonderful cloudscape of all conceivable colors as the rising sun lit up the peaks and the remains of the storm. What a grand experience! | ||
| Posted May 18, 2005 1:43 pm | ||
| plume | Route Climbed: Arete and Clyde's route Date Climbed: Aug 97 | |
| I've been forced to retreat because of the weather, but never because of the sun. Forgot to breing sunscreen on a snowy year. Headed down for three days of Bishop shade then up again for another try. Fine climbing with Kim. | |
| Posted Feb 13, 2005 2:52 am | ||
| Steve Larson | Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: August 29, 2004 | |
| This was my second time up BCS. The North Arete is a fantastic route. My partner opted to doze in the sun while I scrambled up the summit block. Oh well, his loss. | |
| Posted Nov 5, 2004 9:18 pm | ||
| dshoshone | Route Climbed: Ulrichs Route Date Climbed: Aug. 13-2003 | |
| Ran into 3 Sierra Challengers,they led me to the summit. Thanks Bob,Michael,Matthew Been up twice more via NE ridge | |
| Posted Oct 6, 2004 6:18 pm | ||
| stoneman5 | Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: September 12, 2001 | |
| Great fun. Cold. | |
| Posted Sep 13, 2004 7:23 pm | ||
| ScottyS | Route Climbed: NE Ridge Date Climbed: September 5, 2004 | |
| Did this climb almost on a whim during Labor Day vacation --- wore my Tevas to the top! See this trip report for the details. VERY FUN CLIMB!!! | |
| Posted Sep 7, 2004 5:02 am | ||
| Shaase | Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: July 16, 2004 | |
| 45 min. after a "no go" decision a hole in the weather appeared. We shoulder'd our packs squeezing through danting Sierra storm threats. Descent in slight drizzle with infrequent bright flashes. It was a great day for us.... | |
| Posted Aug 10, 2004 2:54 pm | ||
| CPSLOKorny | Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: July 2004 | |
| Excellent weather, a little traffic while climbing but well worth it. | |
| Posted Aug 8, 2004 5:04 am | ||
| poorboy44 | Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: June 2001 | |
| Cool route, we went to the left at the OW, it was only 5.7 or so. I like the summit. | |
| Posted Jul 23, 2004 2:36 pm | ||
| brandon | Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: June 2004 | |
| Lots of fun. Good bit of loose stuff in the corner/OW at the headwall, about 5.8, and the rest no harder than 5.7. | |
| Posted Jul 6, 2004 6:40 pm | ||
| gordonye | Route Climbed: Northwest face via Cox Col (Ulrich's) Date Climbed: July 4th, 2004 | |
| Climbed with Vladimir Ulyashin from camp by a little tarn on top of the ridge between Gem and Treasure Lakes. The slopes before Cox Col had extensive snow cover that was perfect for kicking steps. At Cox Col we met 2 climbers who also go to the Berkeley Ironworks. I carried Bob Burd's photo of the summit headwall and it proved very useful. With rock shoes I was able to climb up the headwall through Bob's "easier chimney". We rappelled down a different headwall on the west side of the summit. Great peak with lots of exposure on every side and some challenging climbs. Then after sundown we spent 2+ hours looking for our tent, finally found it after comparing profiles of surrounding mountains with digital photos taken in the morning from the camp site. What a day!!! | |
| Posted Jul 6, 2004 11:19 am | ||
| Dave K | Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: July 18, 2003 | |
| Dodged lightning all afternoon, including a quick retreat just before reaching the summit ridge, only to try again minutes later. In retrospect, climbing this sucker that day probably wasn't a good idea, but oh well. Didn't climb the summit block because the clouds were building again and the summit block was wet. | |
| Posted Apr 14, 2004 12:36 am | ||
| Guyzo | Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: June 2001 | |
| Car to Car in a day, with Kris S. Bring rockclimbing shoes and stick close to the summit ridge for some really fine 5.5 on golden rock! Ran into some old friends on the summit, very nice day. | |
| Posted Feb 24, 2004 1:30 pm | ||
| mtnfoto | Route Climbed: Ulrichs Route Date Climbed: February 1987 | |
| Did winter ascent with Galen and Barbara Rowell. Great ski down! | ||
| Posted Jan 20, 2004 1:06 pm | ||
| BranchWhitney | Route Climbed: Northeast Buttress Date Climbed: Sept. 2003 | |
| One of the best peaks I have done so far in the Sierra! Fun climb, though got off route and had to climb some easy class 5 rock to the summit ridge. After doing that, I took off my pack and attached my camera case to my belt. On the first move toward the summit, my camera case went flying off the ridge. It's a sick feeling watching your camera bounce down the rocks. I spent about 60 seconds at the summit and located the case about 100 feet below. We rapped down the west side to the camera case. I opened the case and pulled out the camera. Pieces started falling off the camera. Not a good sign! Picked up the pieces and duct tape them to the camera in my hotel room. The camera still works! In fact I took some awesome panoramas from Whitney, Hurd, and Lone Pine Peak with the camera. If interested in seeing them, go to: http://www.hikinglasvegas.com/Panorama.htm | ||
| Posted Oct 6, 2003 6:18 pm | ||
| Matthew Holliman | Route Climbed: Ulrichs Route Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2003 | |
| My first unroped class 4 climb--thanks to some careful coaching by Bob. This is a fun peak with some great rock! | |
| Posted Aug 19, 2003 6:11 pm | ||
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